TanTan TT-X38 Build

[Frank]

In my case the distance of the inner mounting surfaces of the fork is even 103,3mm. I glued in a 1mm spacer on each side and so far there is no problem. What is important is that 1. the wheel is centered when the thru axle is torqued properly and 2. that the outer surfaces of the wheel/hub axle sit flat on the inner mounting surfaces of the fork (i.e. no gap at any point).

[ejump0]

so the gap between 2 dropouts you made it to be 102mm permanently rather than force squeeze a lil to be 100mm?

i was using thruaxle L125-TL14  (101mm gap) when i got the play.
i happen to have L121-TL17 to test(attached pic), and the wobble reduced as i somewhat overtighten a bit (till the wheel stop wobbling, has a lil resistance to rotate).based on calc, around 99.67mm.

and upon inspection, this is what it looks on my dropout of nut side. 
kinda uneven. TanTan is not really responsive on this issue. 
should the nut fully exposed, or should be covered by carbon?

i think i need to find thruaxle with solid part lenght 109-110mm (the left dropout seemed to be around 9.6mm thickness

[Frank]

so the gap between 2 dropouts you made it to be 102mm permanently rather than force squeeze a lil to be 100mm?

I reduced the gap between the dropouts from 103.3mm to 101.3mm by adding a 1mm washer on each side and the remaining 1.3mm is "squeezed" by tightening the thru axle.

[ejump0]

Anyone here use Magene p505 base with this frame?
Does it really clears the bb shell?
On bike stand and stationary, mine does clear.
But after my 1st ride, i can see some part around the bb shell seems to have rubbing (not full circular). either theres BB shell flex, or some dirt got into the gap between the bb shell n the spider

[Motus]

This is mine.. 38mm wheels and 30mm Pirelli Pzero... I'm painting it red tricoat.
I hope it's not too stiff 

[Motus]

Some updates, paint done, just need to finish and polish

[Motus]

assembly test...just to get an idea

[Motus]

Assembly is in progress, but I'm almost done.. I glossified the seatpost and handlebar..

[Motus]

first short test ride, just to make some adjustments

Crankset, pedals and cassette taken from an old gravel, will be replaced soon..

[Motus]

The bike has now 500 km, I find it very comfortable with the 30mm tires. I left a couple of extra spacers, at least one will be removed.
The final weight is around 7.4 kg without pedals.

Next upgrade the wheels, at least 50mm 

[Gigi27]

The bike has now 500 km, I find it very comfortable with the 30mm tires. I left a couple of extra spacers, at least one will be removed.
The final weight is around 7.4 kg without pedals.

Next upgrade the wheels, at least 50mm 

Where did you get the decals?! If this is the same bike that was posted on bdc-mag forum that means I might be able to source them as well 

[Sander2177]

so the gap between 2 dropouts you made it to be 102mm permanently rather than force squeeze a lil to be 100mm?

i was using thruaxle L125-TL14  (101mm gap) when i got the play.
i happen to have L121-TL17 to test(attached pic), and the wobble reduced as i somewhat overtighten a bit (till the wheel stop wobbling, has a lil resistance to rotate).based on calc, around 99.67mm.

and upon inspection, this is what it looks on my dropout of nut side. 
kinda uneven. TanTan is not really responsive on this issue. 
should the nut fully exposed, or should be covered by carbon?


No exposed. Same as my X68 had paint over spray etc. I celaned it up with some acetone and used some 320 grit sandpaper to tidy up the areas

i think i need to find thruaxle with solid part lenght 109-110mm (the left dropout seemed to be around 9.6mm thickness

[Motus]

Where did you get the decals?! If this is the same bike that was posted on bdc-mag forum that means I might be able to source them as well 

Yes it's me

I got the decals on this site :  https://www.decalfont.com/

[patliean1]

Funny, I was just reviewing this thread last night prior to any new posts since May 15th. Nice to see folks still riding this frame.

My frame has been sitting in a box from when I stripped it down couple years ago. Not much resell value on the used market. But I'm always tempted to rebuild it with modern components and wider tires just to see if I still feel the same about it as I did back in 2023.

Ride quality was a bit harsh and sloppy on the rear half. Maybe it all was just in my head. My bike fit and understanding of wheel/tire has changed significantly since then.

[ejump0]

as someone who ride this frame like a tribike (saddle so far fwd) with clipon aerobars on reach extenders, this frame is as close as it gets to a tri bike posi, at least as close almost equal my tt912. as your saddle go higher, the saddle isnt going further back (thus your seattube angle increases, like old plasma)
so i get it why Seb Kienle used a modded ScottFoil as tri bike (he's sponsored by Scott, but he still had access for top tier lightest Plasma if he wanted).
downside, missing toptube boss-mount for bento box, or any internal storage for tools.

if anyone on a budget for tri bike build, this frame is worth a consideration as its almost half(but dont include tri cockpit) of tt912 or other tri frame price. but you need to go full internal cabling, n i suggest go axs for least cable goin thru the top bearing