LTWOO eGR

[coffeebreak]

Ltwoo eGR coming out to about $380 shipped after coupon from ltwoo official store.

Actually pretty tempted right now.

~$350 now but gonna pass. The recent surge of issues is enough to deter me.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806450112754.html

[Serge_K]

Saw it there, remember you being very positive about the er9 when I ordered mine. The fact that they die without a reason is terrible. What reseller did you use?
Find the official store on ali bad in communicating. 80 designer store was a bit more expensive but atleast some kind of service there

Yeah i went from loving it to WTF is this?
I bought the groups via Winow, and i dont think Terry is a good professional. He seems like a nice guy, but he's at times elusive, slow, evasive, vague, it's extremely irritating. He clearly cares about himself, but he doesn't seem to care about our problems.
I since had a look at groupset prices in Europe and they're still insanely expensive, it infuriates me. I understand that SRAM prices are very attractive in the US, but that's not the case in Europe.
I kind of want half of the cycling industry to go bankrupt to clean everything up. A 10k bike was never worth 10k, let alone 15k. Groupsets shouldn't start at 1000 eur.

[coffeebreak]

I since had a look at groupset prices in Europe and they're still insanely expensive, it infuriates me. I understand that SRAM prices are very attractive in the US, but that's not the case in Europe.

SRAM prices aren't very attractive here in the USA as well, not to me at least. Nor Shimano's. On the contrary I was under the impression Shimano stuff is much cheaper in Europe. Cheaper, relatively. Nothing is as cheap as LTwoo or Sensah though.

[Avalius]

The reason i went for ltwoo was because of a crash where i had to replace an ultegra 8070 shifter. Hard to find them and prices at 300€ retail for just a shifter..
These prices are ridiculous.

[amacal1]

Hello, I just joined this forum to jump in on the discussion of the eGR. I ordered one and just installed it last night. Well, almost. Ran into an issue bleeding the brakes because I didn't have an appropriate nipple to plug my syringe into the caliper port. So, waiting on a new bleed kit to come in tomorrow with a selection of various sized nipples. Also, need to finalize how I'm routing the power cable, as of now it's just taped on the chain stay.

Either way, I'm disappointed to hear about the sudden influx of issues. I hope I got a newer one.

My hopes are high as my initial impression is quite good. Shifting is smooth and fast once I got it dialed in. I'm coming from a Microshift Advent X 1x10 setup where I was using a Microshift Sword 11-38 cassette on a "road" type wheelset and the stock boat anchor cassette on a gravel-esque wheelset.

[jonathanf2]

Either way, I'm disappointed to hear about the sudden influx of issues. I hope I got a newer one.

My hopes are high as my initial impression is quite good. Shifting is smooth and fast once I got it dialed in. I'm coming from a Microshift Advent X 1x10 setup where I was using a Microshift Sword 11-38 cassette on a "road" type wheelset and the stock boat anchor cassette on a gravel-esque wheelset.

I haven't heard anything bad about the EGR since it's newer. Your EGR RD should have a serial number on the cage. The first 6 numbers should be an indication of the batch. The problematic ER9 units seem to be from batch 250123. Perhaps EGR batch numbers correspond with the ER9/X or are completely different. Either way it'd be a good way to keep track for reference.

My ER9 unit is still working fine from batch 250123, so it's a bit hit-or-miss on why some RD units stop working.

[Hagen]

Not more people trying this group? Saw there is a new 2024 edition.
Anyone know what changed?

Building my first gravel right now. It's not yet complete, but at least it works with 10-50t Spedao cassette

[amacal1]

I've attached a picture to the post to clearly identify the screw I'm wondering about.

I quickly set my eGR up this weekend and did a good 35mi+ group ride on mostly roads, and all was good. I didn't pay super close attention to how this linkage was set, initially, because it all seemed to work.

After the ride, I was doing some cleanup maintenance to get my crank and chain line better sorted. When I put the chain back on, my chain seemed loose, like the derailleur didn't have enough take-up or the chain was too long. With that, the derailleur was all the way up and contacting my cassette, with the grinding noise just like in Trace Velo's video where his B-screw adjustment failed. That was the first place my mind went, but after pulling it all apart nothing was broken.

What I realized was that when I initially set everything up, that linkage was much further back than it would naturally rest. When that screw (circled in red) is tightened to the torque specified on the screw, the linage doesn't move and the B-screw adjustment doesn't really matter at all. It's like in Trace Velo's video where he uses a lock washer to prevent movement, except I have no lock washer. Simply tightening the screw locks the entire assembly in place. Somehow it had come loose while I was doing that bit of work and that's when I noticed an issue. For now, I simply rotated the linkage back like I had it originally and tightened everything back up to prevent the derailleur from contacting my cassette. Presumably, everything will continue to be fine as long as the screw doesn't work loose again.

My question is: Is that how this is supposed to work? When that screw is tightened, should that link rotate freely so that the B-screw adjustment can move the derailleur, or should it be locked in place like it appears to do on mine? I'm really a novice with it comes to derailleurs, so I'm not really sure what is more typical.