Tideace NEW Gravel Frame: GR201

[Sand101]

No issues here, but I'm using a Redshift stem and typical aluminum bar.

[kubackje]

Question - Is the T47 inboard or outboard?

I'm still pretty undecided on a groupset. Sram eTap is much easier and cheaper to source locally. Easy to dissemble for traveling. But man I really don't like the braking performance of Sram which is kind of important for gravel. The braking modularity on Shimano's latest stuff is superb. But Di2 seems like overkill if I go 1x

Get MANA disc rotors from AliExpress. I am using then with SRAM rival and they are great. Plus look cool https://a.aliexpress.com/_EQWbUYU

[AFE]

Pulled the trigger today.

Here is my built list. Very exciting. First china frame and first bike with electric SRAM

[SEDK]

totally recommend BUCKLOS 4$ Gravel bar tape and totally wouldn't recommend ZRace brake hoses

Is that the Chameleon White? If yes, how is the color IRL - is it chameleon or mostly “just” white?

Br.
Andreas

[Jouke Bosma]

Frame is out for delivery 

Ok ordered the frame today.

Specs:

Tideace Noah custom paint (58)(pearl white 61 with black 63)
Wheels Reynolds ATR
 HB 008 handlebar
Sram red XLPR groupset (from excisting
Fizik 3d saddle
SPECIALIZED pathfinder Pro 42mm tyres

Excited to build this bike. Soon another Tideace Noah in Holland.

I'm gonna sell my Grizl CF SLX 8 suspension frame. So if you are interested

[Uberflo]

For the Tideace bar: Apart from the too narrow sleeve the compression ring is also trash. After tightening the ahead cap the fork could still move about 0,5 mm from front to back. I changed the ring against the one that is coming with the frames headset cap and also compresses the fork in the front. Everything is fine now with the side effect that the gap to the frame increases and no more shims are needed. Just for everyone who also has issues with the handlebar and headset play.

https://imgur.com/a/NrU9KcR

[auburntygur]

I'm working on my first bike build using this frame (ordered from Tantan) and I'm looking to avoid a fully integrated cockpit - I've already got a bar and stem I like. If there's anybody here who is familiar with the headset that arrives from Tantan/Seraph and could give me more info about my routing options I'd really appreciate it. I don't see that there's any ports on the downtube so I'm hoping I can do that through the headset without the accompanying bar and stem. Failing that I'll need to find a compatible headset that can route brake hose (I'm going AXS) so if you have suggestions there please let me know - thanks!

[Shmee]

Almost finished my GR201, just need to confirm my fit before I get everything set.

[Uberflo]

I'm working on my first bike build using this frame (ordered from Tantan) and I'm looking to avoid a fully integrated cockpit - I've already got a bar and stem I like. If there's anybody here who is familiar with the headset that arrives from Tantan/Seraph and could give me more info about my routing options I'd really appreciate it. I don't see that there's any ports on the downtube so I'm hoping I can do that through the headset without the accompanying bar and stem. Failing that I'll need to find a compatible headset that can route brake hose (I'm going AXS) so if you have suggestions there please let me know - thanks!

Which stem do you want to use?

[Lupus]

Hi everyone!
Joining the club.

Frame size: 58, weight: 8.6 kg without power meter and pedals, 9 kg with power meter and pedals.
Components:
•   Wheels: DT ER1400 Dicut
•   Tires: Panaracer Gravelking SS R 40 mm
•   Groupset: Mechanical SRAM Rival/Force with Garbaruk cassette, chainring and cage/pulleys
•   Brakes: TRP Spyre
•   Seatpost: Ritchey WCS Carbon Link Flexlogic
•   Handlebar: Ritchey WCS Carbon VentureMax
•   Saddle: Lunje Carbon (looking for a replacement for my beloved but heavy Brooks)
•   Stem: No-name (testing fit for now). An 80 mm was too long for me (my height is 186.5 cm); I’ll switch to a 70 mm Thomson.
By the next season, I plan to upgrade to an electric SRAM Rival and GX T-Type mullet setup and build a beefy carbon wheelset. I noticed Peter being mentioned here, so I’ll check that out.

Pros:
•   The paintwork and carbon finish are excellent (except for the seatpost, which looks so-so).
•   Storage box is cool.
•   The headset is decent.
•   Packaging was great; everything arrived perfectly.
•   Eddie is loyal and responsive.
Minor cons:
•   I don't like the seatpost clamp outwardly.
•   Axles are heavy.
•   Bolts are heavy.
•   The front derailleur mount was installed before the lacquer dried, leaving unsightly marks underneath.
•   Assembly recommendations would be helpful: what plugs go where, which holes are for which cables, etc.
Major cons:
•   The rear axle is too long.
I still don’t understand why; there are no similar reports on the forums, but my 171 mm axle doesn’t clamp the wheel—it leaves a 2 mm play.
Thanks to Eddie for quickly sending me a shorter axle with no questions asked, but the root cause remains unclear. For now, I’ve temporarily solved the issue by using a washer from another UDH hanger on the brake side, which allows the wheel to clamp properly. However, the contact point is now against the painted part of the frame, which isn’t ideal.

I transitioned from a steel Seaboard CX07, and my first impressions are as follows:
The bike is very responsive, easy to drive, but stable at the back. It is quite hard when pedaling, while riding comfortably off-road.

P.S. Magene P505 Spider fits good, there is a lot of space up to the frame

[auburntygur]

Which stem do you want to use?

For the sake of putting it all out there, I’ll be running a Fox 32 TC suspension fork and I’d like to end up using my PNW Coast bar and something like a Cane Creek GXC stem but I was going to fit a few old stems of different sizes first to figure a length out first.

I wish the frame had traditional ports on the down tube but since it doesn’t I’m assuming I’ll need to go in via the headset.

[Uberflo]

For the sake of putting it all out there, I’ll be running a Fox 32 TC suspension fork and I’d like to end up using my PNW Coast bar and something like a Cane Creek GXC stem but I was going to fit a few old stems of different sizes first to figure a length out first.

I wish the frame had traditional ports on the down tube but since it doesn’t I’m assuming I’ll need to go in via the headset.

If the Tantan frame comes also with the same headset like the Tideace, you can see the cable routing on Lupus build. It goes below the stem into the frame.

[auburntygur]

If the Tantan frame comes also with the same headset like the Tideace, you can see the cable routing on Lupus build. It goes below the stem into the frame.

Yep that’s my ideal solution, if I had realized it ahead of time I probably would’ve just ordered from them instead but I took it for granted that the frame would have traditional ports. I’m trying to get more info on the headset mine will ship with but the pictures look different than the Tideace headset.

[Shmee]

Yep that’s my ideal solution, if I had realized it ahead of time I probably would’ve just ordered from them instead but I took it for granted that the frame would have traditional ports. I’m trying to get more info on the headset mine will ship with but the pictures look different than the Tideace headset.

I've got the tan tan frame, the upper headset bearing is a 40×52x7 45/45. The cables are routed through the middle of the bearing. I'm using a deda superbox stem and topcap and the DCR compression ring ( you have to shave it down a few mm on top) to make it fully I eternal but the bike also comes with a headset cap with holes if you don't want to going through the stem.

[Uberflo]

Other solution if you want to through the stem is FSA FSA because it matches the bearing height of 7 mm.