LEXON Road Carbon Crankset

[c.etzo]

I'm using this crankset on gravel with a direct mount chainting pass Quest and no issues.
And another One for Road tested with Ultegra chainring, no problem at all, now i've swapped the Ultegra for pass Quest with 4 Bolt using lexon spider and seems everything ok, not tested shifting quality.

[Tines]

Is this with 24mm or dub ?
Don’t know if that even makes a difference

[c.etzo]

Is this with 24mm or dub ?
Don’t know if that even makes a difference

Dub both cranksets

[wintermute]

Classic shit AliExpress experience update - ryet / lexon store keep desperately trying to get me to return separately. I had to upload a Vernier caliper image of the crankset (attached so others can see the problem with the crank) and a video of me talking through any the sellers 'bro just add spacers and tighten the preload ring it will be fine' was bs.

Ali have sent me a return label, and now the seller is like offering to refund me in full by PayPal before me sending it back, or even pay me 50% of the price to keep it. I'm sure there must be something true to the Ali returns waste thing, but word to the wise - your dispute is your only leverage over someone miles away so do not close it until you get what you want.

To those still interested / persuade by this crankset you can clearly see the issue in my photo. The distance measured should be 92mm by their specifications. Then with a 90.5 BB width (about average for a 'bb92' frame) you stick a .5mm on the d/s, and take up 0.5 with the preload ring.

If you wanted to keep this, you would need to add a minimum of 4mm extra spacers - probably split drive to nondrive. This might be ok for 1x if you don't mind the huge q factor but with 2x you're going to either ruin your chainline or have your non drive crank so far out that you'll probably give yourself back or knee pain from uneven rocking.

Thinking about it the only place this crank might work is in a drop bar MTB for gravel with a wider BB shell

[Wet Noodle]

To those still interested / persuade by this crankset you can clearly see the issue in my photo. The distance measured should be 92mm by their specifications.

I might be misreading the photo, but it looks like you left out the lock screw for the spider/chainring(?) It's not gonna poke out 4 mm, but just to get a clearer picture: how much would the distance be with the thing on?

[wintermute]

I might be misreading the photo, but it looks like you left out the lock screw for the spider/chainring(?) It's not gonna poke out 4 mm, but just to get a clearer picture: how much would the distance be with the thing on?

That was just so that I could get the calipers in better for a clean photo in the light. The locking is less than .5mm thick and makes almost no difference to the issue.

This is because it's not designed to be in contact with the BB shell - that's what the 0.5mm drive side spacer is for - to make contact with the inner race of the BB. If the lockring was in contact it would touch the outer race and the crank would bind.

In a 90.5 caliper BB width (outside of shell to outside of shell, Shimano pressfit), if you put the locking and spider on and insert into the BB, the gap between the non drive side BB face and the un-tightened preload collar is still enormous - couldn't get calipers in but you can see here it's at least 4mm.

[Tines]

Is there any risk of just sending it back to ali?
I’ll get mine the next couple of days/weeks. Let’s see how wide it is. Probably the same.

[biceryder]

wintermute is correct.  After returning from some work-related travel I was able to more closely inspect the Lexon 24mm crank.  I also received my frame which the crank will go on.  Two issues I will address:

1.  The Lexon chainrings fit.  I have the same ones as wintermute.  They are “tight”, not undersized.  If you carefully place them on the spider, they fit in just right. I
O, it’s similar to fitting Shimano chainrings to a Shimano crank with the bonded chainring bolts.  Takes a little patience and finesse.  Regarding the chainring bolts, yes they are soft aluminum. They also fit and mine tightened down just fine.  I will say that they are probably one time use bolts.

2.  Spindle length.  Can confirm with wintermute on this one.  It is about 4-5
mm too wide.  Ironically, they provide more than enough spacers to make up the difference. I’m in the process of doing a new build.  The crank was my “cheaper” alternative to purchasing an Elilee (saves me about 250.00USD).  I have been using the DUB version of Lexon’s crank all summer with very little drama. Right now I have three options:

  a) return the crank, fight it out to get a refund. Purchase a more expensive crank. (FWIW, I view all Aliexpress purchases as a total gamble. I try not to get emotional about the purchases.)


  b) Use the crank.  Use the supplied spacers and ride it till summer.  If the Q factor and chainline can’t be adquately dealt with over 4mm difference, then I will just order the Elilee 310 next summer.


  c) Find a local tool and die shop that can turn down a titanium shaft by 4mm.  I know I might actually be able to get this done.  Titanium is tough to cut but it is also very soft, like aluminum.  Anyone with a lathe should be able take a few mm off of it.


Hope this info helps anyone who needs to make an informed purchase in the far East.

[hsaus]

I received the new design crank arms with a 29mm aluminium alloy spindle. I installed it in a frame that has a threaded T47 bottom bracket with internal bearings. The cranks fit just fine.

I added a 3mm drive-side spacer, as per the SRAM DUB instructions for T47 / 85.5mm / Road (https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/compatibility-map/road/dub-choose-a-road-bottom-bracket-compatibility-map.pdf), and the preload ring took up the slack.

The spindle claims a 44mm chainline, but I haven't verified that yet.

[Tines]

wintermute is correct.  After returning from some work-related travel I was able to more closely inspect the Lexon 24mm crank.  I also received my frame which the crank will go on.  Two issues I will address:

1.  The Lexon chainrings fit.  I have the same ones as wintermute.  They are “tight”, not undersized.  If you carefully place them on the spider, they fit in just right. I
O, it’s similar to fitting Shimano chainrings to a Shimano crank with the bonded chainring bolts.  Takes a little patience and finesse.  Regarding the chainring bolts, yes they are soft aluminum. They also fit and mine tightened down just fine.  I will say that they are probably one time use bolts.

2.  Spindle length.  Can confirm with wintermute on this one.  It is about 4-5
mm too wide.  Ironically, they provide more than enough spacers to make up the difference. I’m in the process of doing a new build.  The crank was my “cheaper” alternative to purchasing an Elilee (saves me about 250.00USD).  I have been using the DUB version of Lexon’s crank all summer with very little drama. Right now I have three options:

  a) return the crank, fight it out to get a refund. Purchase a more expensive crank. (FWIW, I view all Aliexpress purchases as a total gamble. I try not to get emotional about the purchases.)


  b) Use the crank.  Use the supplied spacers and ride it till summer.  If the Q factor and chainline can’t be adquately dealt with over 4mm difference, then I will just order the Elilee 310 next summer.


  c) Find a local tool and die shop that can turn down a titanium shaft by 4mm.  I know I might actually be able to get this done.  Titanium is tough to cut but it is also very soft, like aluminum.  Anyone with a lathe should be able take a few mm off of it.


Hope this info helps anyone who needs to make an informed purchase in the far East.

What’s your pain with 2a? alias offers free returns?
Is there something I’m missing?
I’ll probably lose the taxes I’ll have to spend when I return it, as my package is currently at the border being checked

[pv_hl]

wintermute is correct.  After returning from some work-related travel I was able to more closely inspect the Lexon 24mm crank.  I also received my frame which the crank will go on.  Two issues I will address:

1.  The Lexon chainrings fit.  I have the same ones as wintermute.  They are “tight”, not undersized.  If you carefully place them on the spider, they fit in just right. I
O, it’s similar to fitting Shimano chainrings to a Shimano crank with the bonded chainring bolts.  Takes a little patience and finesse.  Regarding the chainring bolts, yes they are soft aluminum. They also fit and mine tightened down just fine.  I will say that they are probably one time use bolts.

2.  Spindle length.  Can confirm with wintermute on this one.  It is about 4-5
mm too wide.  Ironically, they provide more than enough spacers to make up the difference. I’m in the process of doing a new build.  The crank was my “cheaper” alternative to purchasing an Elilee (saves me about 250.00USD).  I have been using the DUB version of Lexon’s crank all summer with very little drama. Right now I have three options:

  a) return the crank, fight it out to get a refund. Purchase a more expensive crank. (FWIW, I view all Aliexpress purchases as a total gamble. I try not to get emotional about the purchases.)


  b) Use the crank.  Use the supplied spacers and ride it till summer.  If the Q factor and chainline can’t be adquately dealt with over 4mm difference, then I will just order the Elilee 310 next summer.


  c) Find a local tool and die shop that can turn down a titanium shaft by 4mm.  I know I might actually be able to get this done.  Titanium is tough to cut but it is also very soft, like aluminum.  Anyone with a lathe should be able take a few mm off of it.


Hope this info helps anyone who needs to make an informed purchase in the far East.

Elilee has 94mm spindle length according to the their spec. I would assume the situation will be same or similar to Lexon that states 92mm but it is actually longer.

[Tines]

https://youtu.be/Fwc-NjzX7QU?si=cn8K3EpOZ_UAEq_0
This guy also installs 3mm spacers NDS and a washer drive side on the x310

[wintermute]

https://youtu.be/Fwc-NjzX7QU?si=cn8K3EpOZ_UAEq_0
This guy also installs 3mm spacers NDS and a washer drive side on the x310

The issue I have here is that he's gone +3mm on the NDS. This is necessary because you can only space out the DS before you fuck up your shifting. But this is not the same as getting the cranks centred in the frameset, which is more important for bike fit; the most important part of which is for it to at least start symmetrical!

2.  Spindle length.  Can confirm with wintermute on this one.  It is about 4-5
mm too wide.  Ironically, they provide more than enough spacers to make up the difference. I’m in the process of doing a new build.  The crank was my “cheaper” alternative to purchasing an Elilee (saves me about 250.00USD).  I have been using the DUB version of Lexon’s crank all summer with very little drama. Right now I have three options:

  a) return the crank, fight it out to get a refund. Purchase a more expensive crank. (FWIW, I view all Aliexpress purchases as a total gamble. I try not to get emotional about the purchases.)

So Aliexpress accepted my return and it's free. Lexon have also offered to paypal me the total price of the crank including taxes, and then me send it back on a separate label. If they do this out of goodwill I don't mind doing it. I told them I'd keep it for a 50% refund.

It appears the elilee / other cranks are also this long. I've been scanning the Cybrei / Elilee threads, but there are relatively few people discussing the axle length issue and/or things that have been done to accomodate it.

The only way I could sort of see around it - if say Ryet/Lexon send me a 50% refund or whatever and I keep the crank - is to trial and error space the crank out by c.3mm and use vernier calipers to measure the distance to something central like the seat tube. It might end up with like 1.5mm on each side, or 2mm ds 1mm nds. Then you'd still be a little worried about chainline but it might be ok on, say a gravel bike.