LEXON Road Carbon Crankset

[wintermute]

I don't think they'll go for the partial, but in endless chatting to their customer service (AliExpress disputes must do something to the store like prevent them from getting money out or something as the open dispute seems to be really unpleasant for them) they got their designer to message me. He agreed the crank is 'too long', their solution is 2mm spacers D/S, 1.5mm Spacers NDS + 0.5mm from preload ring.

Obviously this results in a +2mm q factor both sides and a +2mm chainline which may or may not be an issue for you depending on how your chainrings and pedals are mounted or your fit.

Hope that helps those that keep it.

[Tines]

Interesting. One thing I don’t quite understand yet fully: if the elilee spindle is the same length or even longer: why aren’t there any complaints? (At least as far as I can tell from regular visits to the weightweenie thread).

[wintermute]

Interesting. One thing I don’t quite understand yet fully: if the elilee spindle is the same length or even longer: why aren’t there any complaints? (At least as far as I can tell from regular visits to the weightweenie thread).

I agree, at least, if the elilee axle is that long. I think part of it may be that the 24mm solution doesn't space out the same as a DUB solution, which is the format in which most people have interacted with these cranks. It may be that I'm being ridiculous, or it may be that people don't think about q factor as much?

Finally, I perhaps accept the influence that Red E1 165mms are £299 in the UK on preorder, if you're willing to be patient to the new year. These are 50g lighter than the lexons for not really all that much more.

[acino]

I agree, at least, if the elilee axle is that long. I think part of it may be that the 24mm solution doesn't space out the same as a DUB solution, which is the format in which most people have interacted with these cranks. It may be that I'm being ridiculous, or it may be that people don't think about q factor as much?

Finally, I perhaps accept the influence that Red E1 165mms are £299 in the UK on preorder, if you're willing to be patient to the new year. These are 50g lighter than the lexons for not really all that much more.

Is 2 mm q-factor difference really so noticeable for most people? I exchanged my grx crank for 105 on my gravel (because of 4iii powermeter on 105) last year. They are supposed to have 2.5 mm q-factor difference and I did not notice anything at all. I actually found out retroactively.

[wintermute]

Is 2 mm q-factor difference really so noticeable for most people? I exchanged my grx crank for 105 on my gravel (because of 4iii powermeter on 105) last year. They are supposed to have 2.5 mm q-factor difference and I did not notice anything at all. I actually found out retroactively.

4mm - 2mm each side

[acino]

Yeah I know. 105 vs GRX is 5 mm total, so 2.5 mm each side

[Wet Noodle]

Obviously this results in a +2mm q factor both sides ...

Meant to ask much earlier in this thread. Did you measure q?

[JACQUES]

I assembled the spider (thank goodness I had the correct lockring tool), but found it strange that there is a 2.5mm shoulder that the spider rests on, causing a gap between the crank and the spider. Austetically this does not sit well with me. With this I also tried installing the crank, but when I try to centre in in my frame, the inner chainring touches the frame before the arms are evenly spaced.

So I was a bit bummed about this. I did reach out to the store about this and thry ensured that this is their new design.

I have thus decided that I will keep the cranks, but the shoulder should go. I will machine it off and also shorten the crank axle by 2mm.(Ill post some after photos if this is a success.

Now a question, does the xcadey powermeter have this same offset/gap?

You willsee I complained about similar in on the 29mm version. In the end I made them work as I wanted them, but I also found the q-factor wider than I wanted. You should be able to shorten each side of the axle by at least 1mm without problems with spline engagement.

I was thinking of getting a newer 29mm set, with the loose axle, then it can be shortened. I also wanted to see if other bb30/dub axles fit their spline interface, seeing as this copies easton and they use a standard bb30 interface.

[pv_hl]

Let us know if you manage to get 50% refund. As soon as i closed the dispute, they just started ignoring me and i haven't got anything.

Also, if you get that refund, i suggest to try Stone spider. It will remove 1mm from DS and you could evenly distribute it and improve chain line.

FYI i have just received the refund for the replacement spider.

[hsaus]

PSA: Check your NDS crank bolt torque

I took my newly rebuilt bike out for the first proper shakedown ride today, previously I had only done a few laps of the block and a fit session on the trainer.

After some sprint efforts, I noticed what at first felt like a loose cleat - the left shoe somehow felt like it had too much float. But I could unclip and clip in again just fine, so I continued. When I got home I realized that the NDS crank arm was coming loose from the spindle! Had I continued much further, the crank arm would likely have come off completely.

I have the 29mm aluminium spindle version with the black crank arms (no big Lexon graphic), and the NDS crank arm came attached to the spindle out of the box. I torqued the DS crank arm properly when I installed the crankset, but I naively assumed that the factory would have attached the NDS crank arm to spec, and so I didn't verify that during assembly.

I have now torqued both sides properly, and I will do a few more shakedown rides before I take on anything serious. I'll report back here if anything else happens.

For reference, my bike uses a T47 bottom bracket with internal bearings. On the initial installation I used a 3mm spacers on the DS (as per the SRAM DUB spec for non-wide road crankset), but I replaced this with a 2mm this time, mainly because the crank arms seemed to extend a touch further out on the DS compared to the NDS (by the inaccurate method of judging distance to the chainstays).

[biceryder]

Completed my build a few days ago.  For the record I have Lexon 29mm DUB cranks on an other bike (the version with the purple logo).  I admit these do have a longish spindle for 24mm Shimano style BBs.  With tightening everything down, I have about 3mm of play on my T47 BB.  I ran a 1.5mm of Wheels MFG spacers on the NDS and 1mm on the DS. I do not recommend using the supplied spacers as they are not very consistent.  Chain line seems to be right. 

Reason for purchasing Lexon is obviously the price.  I got my 24mm cranks with chainrings for about 300.00USD.  I got my DUB cranks for 180.00.  Considering the fact that I was about to buy Elilee cranks for 450.00+shipping w/o chainrings during 11.11, Lexon seems like a no-brainer gamble, IMO.

MAJOR ISSUE:  Replace the spider immediately or do not buy Lexon cranks.  Both of my Lexon cranks had an out of spec spider. I went thru all the trouble shooting with my DUB crank and ended up just making adjustments to the FD to deal with it (not the right answer).  Issue is that one of the arms on the spider is out of tolerance and causes a 1-1.5mm deviation in the chainring.  It occilates and will hit the FD cage ever so slightly.  My solution: replace the stock spider with a Stone spider (Eastons won’t work).  It was an immediate fix.  Problem is now you just added 44.00 to your total cost of new cranks. 

In the future I will not recommend these cranks unless you are willing to spend extra and play with the clearance issues.  (q factor is a non-issue for my fit)

I have a local tool and die shop that does small jobs.  In the future I may see if they can turn down the spindle by 1.5mm on both ends.  Right now, everything is working great, so no need yet.

[Tines]

But how do I know that I need more spacers? Or I have too many installed?

[Da11as]

Completed my build a few days ago.  For the record I have Lexon 29mm DUB cranks on an other bike (the version with the purple logo).  I admit these do have a longish spindle for 24mm Shimano style BBs.  With tightening everything down, I have about 3mm of play on my T47 BB.  I ran a 1.5mm of Wheels MFG spacers on the NDS and 1mm on the DS. I do not recommend using the supplied spacers as they are not very consistent.  Chain line seems to be right. 

Reason for purchasing Lexon is obviously the price.  I got my 24mm cranks with chainrings for about 300.00USD.  I got my DUB cranks for 180.00.  Considering the fact that I was about to buy Elilee cranks for 450.00+shipping w/o chainrings during 11.11, Lexon seems like a no-brainer gamble, IMO.

MAJOR ISSUE:  Replace the spider immediately or do not buy Lexon cranks.  Both of my Lexon cranks had an out of spec spider. I went thru all the trouble shooting with my DUB crank and ended up just making adjustments to the FD to deal with it (not the right answer).  Issue is that one of the arms on the spider is out of tolerance and causes a 1-1.5mm deviation in the chainring.  It occilates and will hit the FD cage ever so slightly.  My solution: replace the stock spider with a Stone spider (Eastons won’t work).  It was an immediate fix.  Problem is now you just added 44.00 to your total cost of new cranks. 

In the future I will not recommend these cranks unless you are willing to spend extra and play with the clearance issues.  (q factor is a non-issue for my fit)

I have a local tool and die shop that does small jobs.  In the future I may see if they can turn down the spindle by 1.5mm on both ends.  Right now, everything is working great, so no need yet.

Would you recommend it for 24mm version + the powermeter? I am assembling new bike, as the previous one it has BB86, I was running 30mm spindle in it and it is clearly bad, so for now I am transferring to cheap 3-bolt interface 24mm spindle crankset where I could accomodate my p2max, but considering some lighter 24mm options as a future upgrade.

But how do I know that I need more spacers? Or I have too many installed?

Usually you check for distance from the centre of the bike and check for lateral play.

[Bigbobby1482]

I have the 24m version with xcadey spider power meter, and there is no problems with alignment or anything.

[gajowy]

But how do I know that I need more spacers? Or I have too many installed?

good bottom bracket should has manual and come to you with a few spacer. On manual everything is expanded. I ordered crank but not haven't installed yet. In attachment instruction from my manual.