VeloBuild VB-TT-023

[Serge_K]

I get the feeling that VB is making a lot of errors on this frame, no? I'm following from a distance because fundamentally, i'd like to get a TT bike, but i really, really dont need one, but is it me or a lot of people are having problems with the front end?
Or is it user error mostly?
Like the inside of that steerer looks absolutely horrendous?

[mattgolt]

I get the feeling that VB is making a lot of errors on this frame, no? I'm following from a distance because fundamentally, i'd like to get a TT bike, but i really, really dont need one, but is it me or a lot of people are having problems with the front end?
Or is it user error mostly?
Like the inside of that steerer looks absolutely horrendous?

Not sure if this is survivorship bias and people who didn't have issues dont post.

I for myself, did not have any issues building the VB TT 023 and I'm supper happy with it. My VB R 213 on the other hand, did have some quality defects around the bottom bracket and also the mounting points for the disc brake calipers.

[ejump0]

What I call the compression plug is the insert that goes inside the fork. You can see in the picture that is not going down any further in the fork, so I can´t put the top of the stem.

And I will attach a picture with the seat post issue. To clamp the seat, you need a screw and 2 parts. Onepart must not be threaded, only the one in the end of the screw. Mine are both threaded

yes, its called compression plug.
on aliex, theres longer plugs ver too if you want security of propper clamping, if vb again aend kinda short one. 

as for the saddle rail clamp, unless they include 2 types of rail clamps (round n oval rails), indeed thats an error of sending 2 threaded side clamp

[Hmpf]

I get the feeling that VB is making a lot of errors on this frame, no? I'm following from a distance because fundamentally, i'd like to get a TT bike, but i really, really dont need one, but is it me or a lot of people are having problems with the front end?
Or is it user error mostly?
Like the inside of that steerer looks absolutely horrendous?

Basically, this is normal for frames from Asia in a certain price range: a bit of tinkering and trial and error is simply part of the deal - that's the deal for the low price.

My biggest struggle was the cockpit. The order of the screws was not self-explanatory and the centering ring was missing.

But: Velobuild's support was excellent. I always received a reply within 24 hours, and the missing ring arrived two days later (from China to Germany).

In general, TT cockpits are often fiddly - here too. The Velobuild cockpit is not perfectly thought out, but it is modular. The basebar, for example, has a classic 31.8 mm clamp, so you can easily mount something else if necessary.

[RickyM]

Well maybe I got a lemon. We bought 2 frames with a friend. His frame is perfect, he´s been using his bike for a month now and 0 problems.
Mine came with all of this: a not finish fork which I need to file and sand in order to fit the compression plug; came without the upper cup of the headset and came with the wrong rail oval clamps (the round clamps are ok, but my seat has oval rails). So I can´b build my bike.
I knew that with chinese frame I would have to tinkering but this is not little.
Anyway, I wrote to Velob with photos and they inmediately answer, saying that they will send asap the correct clamps for the saddle and the upper cap of the headset. But didn´t answer anything about the fork.
The problem is where I live, mail and customes takes months, so now I put everything in the box again. Maybe in August I can test it, hoping that everything else is fine.

[Juul]

I was totally up to tinkering and solving all these tiny issues - as i completely expected from a Chinese frame.

The stuff that challenged me most was also the cockpit.. bars slipped on the first ride (because I "too carefully" torqued them up).
Now with greater torque, everthing seems fine.
Coincidentally, I asked a couple of hours ago to VB for the max torque just to be sure. I will edit it in the post later when they reply =)
Edit: they responded that the max torque is 5NM

I actually never build a bike up before.. but it was surprisingly more straight forwards than expected.
Also had to cut the fork by myself.. but with care that was easily enough.
But.. for sure.. specific torque settings would have given me more confidence in the build stage and test rides

[RickyM]

This is the full list of what I bougth to build my bike:

Frame: Velobuild TT-023 U$1100
Wheels: Velobuild Wave 60-25 U$490
BB: Kactus Ceramic SKF U$73
Crankset: Rockbross carbon U$190
Powermeter: Xcadey spider  U$330
Chainring: PassQuest aero 52T U$55
Rear D: SRAM RED axs U$350
Cassette: SRAM RED 10-28 U$225
Brakes: TRP HD T-910 U$300
Chain: SRAM RED axs 12s U$60
Shifters: SRAM blips x4 U$200
Disc Rotors: ENLEE 140mm U$45
Tires (for training): Pirelli Pzero 26 U$110

TOTAL (without shipping and customs): U$3.530

[RickyM]

I was totally up to tinkering and solving all these tiny issues - as i completely expected from a Chinese frame.

The stuff that challenged me most was also the cockpit.. bars slipped on the first ride (because I "too carefully" torqued them up).
Now with greater torque, everthing seems fine.
Coincidentally, I asked a couple of hours ago to VB for the max torque just to be sure. I will edit it in the post later when they reply =-

I actually never build a bike up before.. but it was surprisingly more straight forwards than expected.
Also had to cut the fork by myself.. but with care that was easily enough.
But.. for sure.. specific torque settings would have given me more confidence in the build stage and test rides

I think that a basic build in their Youtube Channel would be great for them too. I guess most of us that buy the frames are diyers and a simple video could answer most of our questions and could decide a buy for a lot of chinese brands searchers

[Hmpf]

The Maximum Torque for Stem ist 5.5 Nm.
But imo its way too much (the Carbon in top Cap ist too think for it). Use a lot of gripper Paste and Go until it doesnt slip anymore under load.

[Serge_K]

The Maximum Torque for Stem ist 5.5 Nm.
But imo its way too much (the Carbon in top Cap ist too think for it). Use a lot of gripper Paste and Go until it doesnt slip anymore under load.

Careful with under tightening stem bolts. if you sprint out of the saddle (sudden massive torque through the steerer), or hit something, the stem can shift in a split second, and then good luck not crashing. Dont ask me how i know.

[Hmpf]

Also be careful not to  overtightend. Otherwise it will "crack" and you will need a new stem.

Don't ask me how I know that .

[benchys]

Doneeee. Took longer than expected as I fiddled a lot with the cockpit. Very happy overall but the list of wanted/unnecessary updates is long

Hey @mattgolt,

Have you got any pics of your front setup?
I saw another comment saying you'd purchased these: https://ronwheels.com/gb/accessories/195-adjustment-plates.html - Do you have any sort of bridge across the two spacer stacks?
 
I'm putting together my cockpit now and leaning toward the FastTTplate (https://fasttt.bike/product/universal-twin-mono-riser-adapter-plate/) but your setup looks like it would give more reach/adjustability.

Cheers,

[mattgolt]

Hey @mattgolt,

Have you got any pics of your front setup?

Hey there,

I just came back from a 70.3 yesterday and just cleaned and rebuilt my bike. Took the chance to put on my old cockpit and take some photos of it. I'm not using this cockpit any more, since the extensions are too short for me - I'm using a 3d printed prototype at the moment and I'm waiting for winow to release an XL version of their fasttt clones and then maybe go back to a similar system.

Hope these photos help. The cockpit basically revolves around the wingspan extenders from RON, that you linked. And a 3d printed bridge that sorta looks like batman. This could be done with the original bridge as well, but I haven't found a nice solution for a BTA setup with the original bridge.. On the photos, only a bottlecage and the twistlock for my garmin is missing.

[Mubaslat]

Hey guys!

I'm going to give it a try and build this bike, I've built several road bikes but never a TT.
Before I cut the front fork (tube), how short is it supposed to be? What should be under the top cover?
The compression plug first, yes, but should I put the round cover/lid there too and then tighten it? Or just the compression plug and then cover it up with the top cover and by that putting pressure on the fork with a bolt from above?

I did not get a chamfered bolt that fits in the top cover, thats why I'm asking and I really dont want to cut my fork tube to short.

Added a picture that I stole from this thread so you know what screw and cover I'm talking about, thanks!

I've got just about all the parts I need, I'm going with the Ltwoo TT groupset, will be interesting for sure!

[Hmpf]

That sounds interesting.
Please take a photo of all the parts of the headset and then I can label them for you in order.

The fork steerer should be short enough so that the top cap does not (!) touch the compression plug.
It's just like the road bike, except that the stem is at a slight angle. You still have to cut the steerer straight.