1 x 12 Sram TT Setup

[rockerplates.de]

hi guys,
the new triathon season has started and i will work on my workswell tt frame over the winter (painting, electric hydration tank system :-)
i also want to change from durace to sram:
blips for the front and RD from axs..

I usually race kind of flat courses: olympic distance racepace about 40 to 41 km

Is there anybody already running a 1 x 12 system on a tt bike?
Any suggestions welcome (regarding crank-chainring setups from China)

[Barry McCockiner]

I've gone down this route for my VB TT-23 build (not built just yet). Gone with:

SRAM Force Rear Mech (36tooth max)
11-34 Shimano Cassette
Dura Ace Crankset w/ 56t Pass Quest 1x Chainring
RideRever Trivia Hydraulic TT Brakes
2 sets of 2 AXS Wireless Blips (1 set on Bar Ends and 1 on the Brake Levers)

Most of the TTing and Tri's I do are flat-ish or enough to get by on a 1x chainring. When I need to I will simple buy a SRAM Red FD and double chainring. Went for the Dura Ace Crankset because its quite light. Hoping its all compatible...

[rockerplates.de]

I've gone down this route for my VB TT-23 build (not built just yet). Gone with:

SRAM Force Rear Mech (36tooth max)
11-34 Shimano Cassette
Dura Ace Crankset w/ 56t Pass Quest 1x Chainring
RideRever Trivia Hydraulic TT Brakes
2 sets of 2 AXS Wireless Blips (1 set on Bar Ends and 1 on the Brake Levers)

Most of the TTing and Tri's I do are flat-ish or enough to get by on a 1x chainring. When I need to I will simple buy a SRAM Red FD and double chainring. Went for the Dura Ace Crankset because its quite light. Hoping its all compatible...

thanks....i will await your final report :-)
it seems that sram tt brakes are not so much higher price wise?

[Barry McCockiner]

In the UK at least the prices are £380 for a pair of the SRAM Brakes vs £180 for the RideRever. IIRC, the RideRevers were used on the Cervelo P5D Models at one point or another

[NikkoPh]

I run a 1x Sram 50t chainring and 10/33 casette, was enough for me for a rolling course with a 2.5k elevation. Might change to a 52t for future flat courses.

[Serge_K]

I run a 1x Sram 50t chainring and 10/33 casette, was enough for me for a rolling course with a 2.5k elevation. Might change to a 52t for future flat courses.

A 50T chainring on a TT bike is just wrong

[rockerplates.de]

In the UK at least the prices are £380 for a pair of the SRAM Brakes vs £180 for the RideRever. IIRC, the RideRevers were used on the Cervelo P5D Models at one point or another

i see..
thanks..

[rockerplates.de]

A 50T chainring on a TT bike is just wrong

too small?
52 or even higher?

[Serge_K]

too small?
52 or even higher?

For anyone whose Z2 is around 180-220W, i'd say 53T at least, and preferably 55T. That way you spend more time in the middle of the cassette. Mechanically it's better to have a big ring and be in the middle of the k7.
50T on a TT bike, unless you're 50kg, means you're spending most of your time in the smallest cogs, which you shouldn't. And it looks noob AF.
Also, now RDs all handle 32T or more as largest cog, so while it's nice to run a 12-25 because the jumps are small, i think it makes more sense to do 55T with a 11-34, or 11-36.
Obviously that's assuming modern equipment with fast tyres, a half decent position and all that.
Also from experience, in TT position, a lower cadence feels nicer and more sustainable. I think it's tested faster too. If you're comfortable doing 95 cadence in TT, good for you, but i'm not. A TT is usually about motoring at a sustainable pace, so you want the motoring speed to be in the middle of the cassette, at the most natural cadence for you.
Also, you get to flex your big ring and impress... nobody :p

[NikkoPh]

I agree, however i chose 50 just because i played it safe on my first tri race. 50t was the largest chainring i could find 2 weeks into the race, i considered the 2.5k elevation of the course im headed to.

[merlin]

I had 52t 10-30 on my bike and it was fine. Back to 2x12 50/39 at the moment because no race is flat here. SRAM with blips. Mech hydro disc calipers. I may try 52/10-36 and see how that goes.

I run 140mm cranks, and I do around 90 cadence. I prefer to spin up hills and hate grinding.

[Serge_K]

Any suggestions welcome (regarding crank-chainring setups from China)

Btw, i just realized there's an adaptor on Alix from the cannondale looking spindle / ring interface (used by Racework and Riro for eg) to 110 BCD 5 arms like Shimano, which means you can then put any ring you want, single or double.

The attached shows the "native" rings that fit on that spindle interface (50/34, 52/36, 53/39). But there's an adaptor to allow to run 110 BCD 5 arm rings (12 eur). That way you can run 55T or whatever setup you want. I may do that next year to run 52-34, for eg, on my road bike as I like being able to stay in Z2 up climbs but i actively dislike a 50T big ring.

[rockerplates.de]

For anyone whose Z2 is around 180-220W, i'd say 53T at least, and preferably 55T. That way you spend more time in the middle of the cassette. Mechanically it's better to have a big ring and be in the middle of the k7.
50T on a TT bike, unless you're 50kg, means you're spending most of your time in the smallest cogs, which you shouldn't. And it looks noob AF.
Also, now RDs all handle 32T or more as largest cog, so while it's nice to run a 12-25 because the jumps are small, i think it makes more sense to do 55T with a 11-34, or 11-36.
Obviously that's assuming modern equipment with fast tyres, a half decent position and all that.
Also from experience, in TT position, a lower cadence feels nicer and more sustainable. I think it's tested faster too. If you're comfortable doing 95 cadence in TT, good for you, but i'm not. A TT is usually about motoring at a sustainable pace, so you want the motoring speed to be in the middle of the cassette, at the most natural cadence for you.
Also, you get to flex your big ring and impress... nobody :p

My natural cadence is around 70....thanks for your kind help!