Spcycle New Mold SP-R088 Carbon Road Frame

[jonathanf2]

Thanks! Now I have to decide between this and a X68.... Hmm decisions decisions

They're practically identical geometry-wise except for the head tube design. The selling point for me on the SPcycle frame is the UDH (easy to acquire & cheap), 32c tire width (yet to be seen) and confirmed to be EPS molded (looks like it from what I can see). Plus this frame is compatible with mechanical groupsets. Tan Tan doesn't seem very open at disclosing any information on the X68.

[WWcyclist]

They're practically identical geometry-wise except for the head tube design. The selling point for me on the SPcycle frame is the UDH (easy to acquire & cheap), 32c tire width (yet to be seen) and confirmed to be EPS molded (looks like it from what I can see). Plus this frame is compatible with mechanical groupsets. Tan Tan doesn't seem very open at disclosing any information on the X68.

I asked them and they said it was EPS molded but who knows really.

I could be wrong but the X68 looks like it has a UDH as well

[jonathanf2]

I asked them and they said it was EPS molded but who knows really.

I could be wrong but the X68 looks like it has a UDH as well

The RD hanger doesn't look to be UDH (from Tan Tan's website):


The frame I have is definitely UDH, which tightens with an M6 hex wrench. It's not a deal breaker, I'd just buy from whichever vendor/frame you prefer! 

[WWcyclist]

The RD hanger doesn't look to be UDH (from Tan Tan's website):


The frame I have is definitely UDH, which tightens with an M6 hex wrench. It's not a deal breaker, I'd just buy from whichever vendor/frame you prefer! 

I'm looking forward to hearing how this one rides!

[jonathanf2]

I was assembling the frameset last night and hit my first issue. The seat post provided is about 350-380mm, if running Di2 or (ER9 in my case), the seat post will most likely need to be cut and drilled in order to accommodate the battery+holder depending on your height. Since the seat post is too skinny, the battery is attached at the bottom of the seat post. Unfortunately the seat post will not go all the way down with the battery attached. I'm pretty sure it's the same shape as an SL8 seat post and Specialized sells a shorter 300mm seat post but for more money. I just messaged SPcycle to see if they provide a shorter seat post.

The second issue if running ER9/X, is that the external case for the battery holder is too thick to fit into the seat tube of the R088. I found the work-around is to remove the battery holder external casing and then swaddle the battery holder with plastic wrap for protection. I then attached the battery to the Di2 battery seat post clip and taped them together to prevent the battery from falling in.

My current dilemma now is if I should cut the seat post myself a few centimeters and drill new holes for the Di2 battery clip? If not I'll have to wait if SPcycle will provide me the shorter seat post. Last option would be to buy a shorter 300mm seat post from another AliEx vendor. I found a vendor selling a 300mm SL8 seat post:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807245692808.html?

If you are planning to run either SRAM AXS or Wheeltop, feel free to ignore this whole post!   

[frnchy]

I was assembling the frameset last night and hit my first issue. The seat post provided is about 350-380mm, if running Di2 or (ER9 in my case), the seat post will most likely need to be cut and drilled in order to accommodate the battery+holder depending on your height. Since the seat post is too skinny, the battery is attached at the bottom of the seat post. Unfortunately the seat post will not go all the way down with the battery attached. I'm pretty sure it's the same shape as an SL8 seat post and Specialized sells a shorter 300mm seat post but for more money. I just messaged SPcycle to see if they provide a shorter seat post.

The second issue if running ER9/X, is that the external case for the battery holder is too thick to fit into the seat tube of the R088. I found the work-around is to remove the battery holder external casing and then swaddle the battery holder with plastic wrap for protection. I then attached the battery to the Di2 battery seat post clip and taped them together to prevent the battery from falling in.

My current dilemma now is if I should cut the seat post myself a few centimeters and drill new holes for the Di2 battery clip? If not I'll have to wait if SPcycle will provide me the shorter seat post. Last option would be to buy a shorter 300mm seat post from another AliEx vendor. I found a vendor selling a 300mm SL8 seat post:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807245692808.html?

If you are planning to run either SRAM AXS or Wheeltop, feel free to ignore this whole post!   

You could also try putting the battery in the downtube by the bottom bracket. I've had to do this twice now due to running Di2 with a dropper post, and though it's a mildly annoying installation and battery access is more restrictive (have to take out crank and BB), it does work well and I've not had any issues. See https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4662

[jonathanf2]

You could also try putting the battery in the downtube by the bottom bracket. I've had to do this twice now due to running Di2 with a dropper post, and though it's a mildly annoying installation and battery access is more restrictive (have to take out crank and BB), it does work well and I've not had any issues. See https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4662

I debated doing that, but this frame is so petite there's no way to even fit the battery through the BB shell! I also thought about just mounting the battery externally with a di2 external battery cage holder, but that thing is expensive and it just makes your bike look ugly! Lol

Anyways, SPcycle got back to me and basically told me...don't be a p***y, just cut and drill it! I've had to do something similar with my SL6 clone, but I didn't expect I'd do the same with this SL8 clone. That reminds me, I have to pick up some new hacksaw blades. I'll probably cut the seat post plus the fork tomorrow.

Also there appears to be about 50mm of seat post I can cut, I just need to cut about 35mm of seat post to bring it back to the same height I had without the battery attached. For the drilling, I'll probably tape up the drill bit, so I don't drill all the way through and do each hole separately.

Anyways, I would highly recommend asking SPcycle to pre-cut or provide a shorter seat post before ordering if using Di2/ER9/ERX or plan to build this frame with a full wireless groupset like AXS or Wheeltop.

[frnchy]

I debated doing that, but this frame is so petite there's no way to even fit the battery through the BB shell! I also thought about just mounting the battery externally with a di2 external battery cage holder, but that thing is expensive and it just makes your bike look ugly! Lol

The battery doesn't go in through the BB shell, it goes in through the headset (either upper or lower, depending on which is easier to get it into the downtube) then pulled down with the connected wires until it's near the BB. Cutting carbon isn't much of a problem but drilling is a different matter, even if it's in a location not so crucial to safety, I'd be worried about delamination from the drill bit. Might be worth it to get that seatpost you linked, or a Hylix one (or if you have a spare 8-12 months and several hundred bucks, Darimo is an option...  )

[jonathanf2]

This build has taken me a bit longer mainly due to fit issues with the ER9 battery, but I finally solved the issue! I was almost about to give up and just build this bike mechanical or save up and get a Wheeltop EDS TX, but all my ideas pop-up in my head when I wake up in the morning! 

Disregard anything I've written previously, these are the definitive steps to use the ER9/X on the r088 and possibly other sl8 clones!

After examining the whole assembly, I found the full ER9 battery holder (with cover) can snugly fit into the seat tube, but in order to get it out, I tied 2 pieces of ribbon string to both ends of the battery holder. You can then easily pull it out for maintenance and/or battery replacement. The seat post will still need be cut, but no drilling is necessary for the Di2 clamp holder and you won't need to use it (only for the ER9/X). Though make sure to not lose it, replacement Di2 holders on AliEx are like $20 USD! The ER9 battery holder diameter is just wide enough that it won't shake around the seat tube. Though the fit is so tight there's no way to wrap it in either bubble wrap or even thin plastic wrap.

For both ER9 and Di2, I would definitely install the battery cabling first before installing the bottom bracket. I opted not to use the hole behind the FD cover. Routing the battery cable that way makes it extremely difficult (though not impossible) to get the excess cabling into the seat tube or else it will get in the way of the battery holder (the fit is very tight). You want to get all the excess cabling below the FD hanger mount in the seat tube. For ease of installation, I instead used the lower hole that could be used for mechanical. This is an option that I'm only aware of with the R088 and might not be available on the other SL8 clones/copies.

Anyways, this frame design really seems like a big f**k you to Shimano. Also the way the RD hole exits through the lower chain stay seems more like an afterthought. I definitely think this frame was build with full wireless in mind. Hopefully I can complete this build soon, since I was able to figure out this problem!

[jonathanf2]

After solving the ER9 battery fit issue, the overall build is going smoothly. I still need to swap over the ER9 shifters from my other frameset. I'll probably run a few stem spacers until I get used to the fit, though I'll most likely slam the stem. I put a rubber seat post gasket to show where the seat post would be without an ER9 or Di2 battery installed. On a full wireless or regular mechanical setup, it will go down all the way. If running SRAM AXS or Wheeltop, you can definitely skip the seat post cutting and positioning of the battery cables.

I included shots of the chain stay and fork tire spacing. 32c tires look like they'll fit, but will definitely be snug in the rear.

[WWcyclist]

After solving the ER9 battery fit issue, the overall build is going smoothly. I still need to swap over the ER9 shifters from my other frameset. I'll probably run a few stem spacers until I get used to the fit, though I'll most likely slam the stem. I put a rubber seat post gasket to show where the seat post would be without an ER9 or Di2 battery installed. On a full wireless or regular mechanical setup, it will go down all the way. If running SRAM AXS or Wheeltop, you can definitely skip the seat post cutting and positioning of the battery cables.

I included shots of the chain stay and fork tire spacing. 32c tires look like they'll fit, but will definitely be snug in the rear.

I am loving it, it looks very good, excited to hear how it rides. We are gonna need you to go try a SL8 afterwards for a comparison