My TanTan TT-X38 build with 2piece stem+bar ACR(mosso ICR)

[ejump0]

Hi guys,
Documenting the progression on my build here, n hickups/ issue if i encountered something, so can be useful for future builders.

My frame just arrived on 19Dec, after placing order on 18Nov.

Why did i choose this frame?
- inspired by Sebastian Kienle's scott foil Norseman Tri mod. This frame ACR compatible may make it possible to transfer over my tt912 cockpit if i have a hilly race (thus 2piece cockpit)
- my tt912 is a faf to fit into bike bag, as its so huge. its not about weight, but things i need to dismatle
- plenty aero for draft-legal duathlons, n i also already have clip-on stem mounted aerobar system if i dont fancy to transfer over my tt912 cockpit
- big clearance for wide wheels, n big triangle that i can fit big frame bag when i want to do bike touring + training camp


The ordering process went thru whatsapp, just like my tt912.
i did request for toptube boss mounts, it was a no go

[mermlundry]

What are you using for a aerobar setup? I am in the market and curious about the TanTan ones. You have pics?

[ejump0]

What are you using for a aerobar setup? I am in the market and curious about the TanTan ones. You have pics?

this is my tt912 build thread > https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4754.0.html
it has the aero extension pics that came with the frame as package. 
in that thread theres also my green tcr pic that uses the controltech falcon mini mounted on stem with old alu J-bar. 
as im converted to sram axs, my tantan aerobar(with blips) can replace that j-bar

[ejump0]

i havent started the build as i realized i forgot to order some jagwire brake cables for my mech disc brakes. also spent time installing sram axs on my tt912.

anyway, some pics of the internals (bb shell, seat tube, top headtube, bottom headtube

im dont have those mini cam. n not sure what im seeing, but the internal of tubes looks clean/no wrinkles with exceptions at the intersections.

the chainstays can clear my 28ew rims (gp5k 28mm blown to 29.3mm) with plenty of gap. d50cu-33 should be no issue. im removing the fd gromet n will use electrical tape to have more wheelwell clarance for chonk tires

[ejump0]

so last night i tried to fit my mosso st08 110mm stem.
found out the c-ring cable pass thru of this kit is so thick, its making the top cover sit so high with 3.6mm gap.

the top bearing-clip kit provided by tantan is so much thinner.
the difference between both is that the mosso bearing id is larger, thus the cables have more slack going thru it. 
while i can use tantan bearing+clip with mosso top cap (gap down to 1.8mm), but i think the mosso one is better n causing less rub of cables against that ring.
or rubbing shouldnt be a big factor as the whole fork moves when we steer?

*edit: the provided tantan top bearing cover dustcap n c-ring/bearing will sit flush just fine, so if you are going to use it, no gap issue

[ejump0]

i picked up mosso stem for its lightweight, consistent shape to fit my controltech system, n traditional top stem topcap for easy no faf compressing the headset n torque down the stem.
however i just realized the angle of this stem isnt so nice as it not horizontal to ground n gave a rise to stack.

[ejump0]

today i got the steerertube chopped off a bit, n worked the cabling for rear brakes. fork now -34g
routing the cable thru the dropbar was a faf, because the center acr hole is so smol.
luckily i have spare jagwire connectors lying around, so i can have the bendy/flexy jagwire cable part at the center hole.
so it will be keb-sl > flexhousing > keb-sl in the brake line.

i got myself a cheapo Sensah 2x8 brifters just to have sram feel, tho the gear shifting wont be connected(im on axs). i havent figure out where i gonna put the sram wireless blips

[ejump0]

progress..  slowly taking shape

current setup frame+fork+post +stem +(headset)+bar+cable+caliper around 2.6kg

with wheelset got to 5.6kg

i think that stem at 6° make the frame look odd 
but theres no lightweight acr alternative stem at -12/17° at good price n stem width fit my clipon aerobars

[ejump0]

slow progress on the build as i have been travelling, n work. 

the pipe rubber o-rings arrived. 
my 1st attempt was to cut/trim the oring to be like a hat where top part has a brim to insert into the slot where original gasket was, my cutting skill is shit its not even 

2nd attempt, to just thin out the oring n slot into the slotted gasket gap. it worked, n seals the top bearing, but doesnt look nice i think.

then i saw someone from the x68 thread mentioned he grind the c-clip for 2days , instead of grinding the top dustcap center area.
since old-skool mechanic used to just grind engine block with sandpaper on glass, so decided why not try this method.

i have a small file around, job gonna be slow 
so far 0.4mm gone. 1.1mm to go

also peter updated my d50cu-33 wheelset are ready n about to be shipped 

[Uberflo]

Did you try a lower bearing instead? I found myself ordering a 6.5 mm bearing instead of the original FSA ACR 8 mm to lower the gap.

[ejump0]

Did you try a lower bearing instead? I found myself ordering a 6.5 mm bearing instead of the original FSA ACR 8 mm to lower the gap.

actually i never thought about swapping the bearing height.
maybe i was too fixated about 1.6mm gap n fitting gasket n call it a day.

I just measured my top headset bearing, theyre 7mm height, both the stock provided by tantan, and the ICR bearing kit came with the stem.
The stock top bearing is the exact same as bottom bearing 52x40x7.
The ICR top bearing has a larger ID 52x45x7, and only compatible with its own C-clip. if i use tan-tan c-lip with the icr-bearing, tantan c-clip will sunk in a lil, but wobble around as the chamfer doesnt match the bearing due to diff ID.

i did some google, the lowest height for 52x40 is only 6.5mm

[Ludo]

I had to do the filing on my gravel built, tedious but you will get the perfect fit you’re looking for eventually!

[Uberflo]

Ah okay. I would go for the Tantan C ring as cable rubbing against the fork is no issue it all. Then you have a nice top cap instead of modifying the Mosso one.

[ejump0]

update to the build.
sorted the top dustcap gap. able to reduce gap to 1.1mm

managed to assembled everything over weekend. stem looks skinny n angled upwards, a lil ugly, but this is the lightest acr stem i could find at reasonable price.
Brifter is sensah Reflex 2x8 haha . i'll be having blips somewhere there. sram brifter just too expensive.

unfortunately i hit problems
1. the pes crank spindle seems a lil short by few mm. is this normal on bb47 with 24mm spindle? i can still secure the crankbolt n arm bolt. just a lil worried

2. with the fork is a lil wide. in relax form, if i slot my front wheel, 1 side of hub cap wont get slotted into the fork slot as if the wheelhub is short (its not the case as the wheels were fine on my tt912). i thought when i just torque the thru axle it will be fine.
unfortunately it doesnt, it still having side-to side play and when i press my front brake, it will move to the disk side. i notice then im preloading the stem cap to adjust the steerer. maybe its like this \-|  when tighten

anyway, in this form without bartape, its 7.5kg.
a little dimotivated 
already sent vids to tantan, hope they can help out

[ejump0]

my build is still not complete, due to the fork / thruaxle issue.

My fork dropout nut end is not clean and flat.
I tried 2 thruaxle, L121-TL17 and L125-TL14. The 125 is the one i had wobble. The 121, it didnt reached the nut. For testing purposes, i tried tightening till the wherl stopped wobbling, i had to find Thruaxles with the solid part +before thread starts around 109/110mm.
Trying my luck ordering L123-TL14 is this stips the play n not too tight for wheelhub

still not getting help from TanTan

anyway, did a short spin around the block. fully integrated cables.
no bar tape yet as i havent figured where to put the blips.
yep, thats a sensah 2x8 sti 
in this form, its 7.5kg