My TanTan TT-X38 build with 2piece stem+bar ACR(mosso ICR)

[Serge_K]

Very nice, thanks for sharing the build. The ACR shenanigans + aero bar mounting are especially interesting and useful.

How much is that stem and where did you get it? Will you be able to remove the bar & stem from the fork for traveling, like will there be enough hose slack inside the frame for that?

do you have a link for that aero bar rig that mounts on the stem? how much is that?

Depending on how much you weigh, know that you can get a 180mm disc with a 10$ adaptor on the rear wheel with these brakes, it's what i have. Given the mechanical breaking isnt great, it may be a good option. Takes longer for the discs to howl. Very nice if you find yourself descending hairpins behind a car unable to overtake.

if you're disappointed with the weight, the 2 areas where you can usually save the most weight efficiently are probably the cassette (the ultralight half alu half steel cassettes on AliX are around 50$, and the full steel ~80, and a carbon crankset (as low as $~120)

[ejump0]

Very nice, thanks for sharing the build. The ACR shenanigans + aero bar mounting are especially interesting and useful.

How much is that stem and where did you get it? Will you be able to remove the bar & stem from the fork for traveling, like will there be enough hose slack inside the frame for that?

do you have a link for that aero bar rig that mounts on the stem? how much is that?

Depending on how much you weigh, know that you can get a 180mm disc with a 10$ adaptor on the rear wheel with these brakes, it's what i have. Given the mechanical breaking isnt great, it may be a good option. Takes longer for the discs to howl. Very nice if you find yourself descending hairpins behind a car unable to overtake.

if you're disappointed with the weight, the 2 areas where you can usually save the most weight efficiently are probably the cassette (the ultralight half alu half steel cassettes on AliX are around 50$, and the full steel ~80, and a carbon crankset (as low as $~120)

Thats Mosso st08 stem is on aliex, n cheap too. the stem however is kinda skinny to the ratio of toptube width. but this is the lightest n good value acr(icr) stem. deda superbox n vinci stem almost double the weight n price. the dropbar drop kinda ugly, but i rarely ride on the drops. i'll change to nicer one in future, low priority.
yup, i built it with the brake cable enough slack into the frame n fork for stem removal. i even used 2 jagwire cabble connectors if in future i need to swap bars but end up not enough lenght(just need to replace the section at brifters.

my goal for this build is for a 2ndary Tri setup for training, and for biketouring in future (bigger triangle clearance to my tt912 for frame bags) n with future cockpit conversion to full tri if i happen to upgrade my tt912 cockpit(pass down part).

in this form, this bike felt so much lighter than my tt912 at almost 10kg. currently im surprised that the feeling of onirii br05 brake modulation here is so different than my tt912 with tektro tr720. maybe brakes need more breakins.

that aero tri bar stem mount is ControlTech Falcon Mini stem ver. the kit comes default with U horseshoe itu short bar, but it takes generic 22.2 aerobars. i got it off amazon few yrs ago (just checked, still available. wait for primeday sales)
i will move over my tt912 aerobars here when im training on this, as i need the blips at bar ends

[Serge_K]

Sweet!
would you mind sharing links for the alix stem, i cant find it (i did see something similar: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007557399904.html, but not yours)?
For the falcon thing, how did / do you know it's compatible with a non controltech falcon stem? you just winged it?

do you have photos of the jagwire cabble connectors? The biggest problems w cable integration are travel and maintenance/ease of use, so i'm very curious about such little things that can prevent headaches down the road.

I have the same brakes on my gravel bike. i swapped the pads to something else, some OEM stuff from a european website, i dont remember what. point being, the braking was transformed. given how cheap pads are, you may want to experiment with different pads. i suspect these brakes ship(ped) with the cheapest pads imaginable.

Also, depending on your use case, you might get away with full resin pads, for eg, if you'll never do long ass descents, as they will bite better. the ceramic ones i tried on my road bike for example, do need to heat up, noticeably, before they really work. it's a bit sketchy in the first turn, then it works very well, and lasts. if it were resin the pads would probably go home after 3 turns and pads that stop biting are terrifying. i havent tried metallic, but it should be worse than ceramic in terms of needing heating up. Hybrids are standard, and i think there's variation between brands and models, because hybrid can mean anything.

[raisinberry777]

Sweet!
would you mind sharing links for the alix stem, i cant find it (i did see something similar: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007557399904.html, but not yours)?

https://aliexpress.com/item/1005007330565939.html - this is the stem

[ejump0]

Sweet!
would you mind sharing links for the alix stem, i cant find it (i did see something similar: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007557399904.html, but not yours)?
For the falcon thing, how did / do you know it's compatible with a non controltech falcon stem? you just winged it?

do you have photos of the jagwire cabble connectors? The biggest problems w cable integration are travel and maintenance/ease of use, so i'm very curious about such little things that can prevent headaches down the road.

I have the same brakes on my gravel bike. i swapped the pads to something else, some OEM stuff from a european website, i dont remember what. point being, the braking was transformed. given how cheap pads are, you may want to experiment with different pads. i suspect these brakes ship(ped) with the cheapest pads imaginable.

Also, depending on your use case, you might get away with full resin pads, for eg, if you'll never do long ass descents, as they will bite better. the ceramic ones i tried on my road bike for example, do need to heat up, noticeably, before they really work. it's a bit sketchy in the first turn, then it works very well, and lasts. if it were resin the pads would probably go home after 3 turns and pads that stop biting are terrifying. i havent tried metallic, but it should be worse than ceramic in terms of needing heating up. Hybrids are standard, and i think there's variation between brands and models, because hybrid can mean anything.

rb shared the stem link. thats the correct one.

this is the jagwire connectors. if you buy jagwire mechanical Pro brake kit(keb-sl), a pair of this will come with it, together with short section of jagwire bendy cable. tho i bought extra pairs from the shop.
https://jagwire.com/products/small-parts/connecting-junction-ferrules

for the tt-bar kit, it was either i found a spec sheet of it somewhere to know the width of the clamp, or i investigate the controltech stem width.
and ended it fits my TCR Contact stem (my bike back then, it has Giant Conduct brake system, i cant use regular handlebar clamp system)

until i sorted the fork issue, i cant test the brakes yet

[ejump0]

its been a while.
i ended up sorting the front wheel woble with a new axle.
made a measurement, and i need the solid part around 109-110mm.
Settled with M12x1.5 L123 TP14.
4mm thread pokes out.
I did the same with rear axle too.

for the blips, i pasted it on the hoods above my thumb.

weight with aerobars around 8.2kg

the bike has been ridable, n felt good, with exception of 1 major issue

[ejump0]

the major problem i encountered is reach, for the aerobars/elbowpad.
the toptube lenght btween tt912 vs ttx38 are close, n the stem lenght are equal. however if you see where the armpad goes, on my x38 its few cm off rearward.
i had to compensate by having the sadfle further back (i prefer over bb posi).

i just ordered fastt reach extenders to solve this issue.

2nd issue is PESp505-base crank clearance is too close. the crank body near the bb-shell has some chamfer, but yet theres some sign of rubbing on my shell clearcoat (as if some dirt got in between).
for now i swap back my r7000 cranks 170mm (i prefer the 165mm p505)

personally i think this frame has potential for budget tt/tri build, disguising as scott foil to circumvent uci if you wanna take a risk, but it lacks on board storage. i think tantan/ceclotti dont want to put boss mount on toptube is to prevent it kills tt912 market.

i got myself a generic JAVA rear seatpost toolbox, n gonna do diy project to fit it

[ejump0]

currently im prepping my bike for a short solo 2D1N biketour.

this currently what it looks like.

until my m5 bolt arrive(to install the reach extender olates), i'll stick with current setup

[Motus]

currently im prepping my bike for a short solo 2D1N biketour.

this currently what it looks like.

until my m5 bolt arrive(to install the reach extender olates), i'll stick with current setup

very nice.. what size are the tires and wheels?

[ejump0]

very nice.. what size are the tires and wheels?

the wheelset is from xmcs carbon speed(theres a thread by peter here) d50cu-33 t1100 carbon spokes 50mm deep 33ew/26iw. tires are powercup 28mm clincher ballooned to 32mm . so far 550km in still no nail puncture (more robust than my gp5k clinchers). 
supposed to be my do-it-all bike now (i scrapped the idea to do bike touring with my tri bike  )