Author Topic: Tips and Advices for a first (disc brake) build  (Read 265 times)

leogeo

Tips and Advices for a first (disc brake) build
« on: May 14, 2025, 12:45:17 PM »
Hello together,

After some time reading on here and testing several accessoires and parts from non-Western brands i want to buy my first frameset for a racey gravel build.

I am about to pull the trigger on the new velobuild aero grav frame as it has the geometry i am looking for.

My experience so far is that i have built up an old rim brake road bike with mechanical 105 with a little help from my dad. Besides that i was able to change the BB on my road brake and install a new crankset. Building a disc brake bike with hydraulic brakes seems like a challenge though and therefore i am asking for advice:

- do you think the frame is a good choice for a first build?

- Is it a bad idea to start with a frame that is brand new because no posts about builds are on here to read…?

- What might be the trickiest part? I am thinking of installing the headset or cutting a fork for the first time

- Is a grx di2 build considerably more challenging than a sram axs build due to battery and cabling required?

- What tools are a must have? The basics i have but e.g. No dedicated tool for cutting the fork or no cable routing tool yet

- Can you recommend any good videos in english/german on YT that helped you with your builds?

- Any general advices/thoughts?


Thank you so much in advance and have a Beautiful day!



Cape_Kirk

Re: Tips and Advices for a first (disc brake) build
« Reply #1 on: May 15, 2025, 12:16:25 AM »
Hi there,

I just ordered the velobuild aero grav frame because a made good experiences with velobuild and the last frame set.

Best tool: torque wrench!

You will need a bleed kit for the brakes (sram or Shimano) and a the tool to fasten the T47 BB.
You can cut the fork with two stems as a gauge as well, so you need no special tool (but you need the right saw)
Cabel Routing Kit you can find on aliexpress. With a bit patience it can be done without such a kit.
SRAM 1x is easier than SRAM 2x is easier than GRX Di2 - but all can be done.

Advice: Take your time. Measure twice before cutting anything ;)
« Last Edit: May 15, 2025, 05:33:42 AM by Cape_Kirk »

leogeo

Re: Tips and Advices for a first (disc brake) build
« Reply #2 on: May 15, 2025, 12:26:57 PM »
Thanks for your answer.

I do have a torque wrench and just ordered a cable routing tool from AE. But will definetely look for a bleeding kit and the T47 Tool.

Are you going to use the headset that comes with the frame or change to another one? I sometimes read on here that this is a part worth investing some money to get a better option


leogeo

Re: Tips and Advices for a first (disc brake) build
« Reply #3 on: May 15, 2025, 01:08:52 PM »
Oh and which groupset are you going to use?

I am wondering if i need a crankset with a wide chainline (e.g. 47,5mm Sram Wide) for that frame or if a magene crank (44,25mm chainline) will work...


klindsey00

Re: Tips and Advices for a first (disc brake) build
« Reply #4 on: May 15, 2025, 01:20:06 PM »
I built a bike for the first time in nov of last year, fully integrated disc brakes with sram axs. Honestly it is super easy (i have a good amount of automotive mechanic experience so a bike is a walk in the park IMO). The most annoying part is cutting the brake hoses to length with internal handlebars. Make sure you leave plenty of slack in the hoses. Follow youtube tutorials for bleeding the brakes.

trcycling

Re: Tips and Advices for a first (disc brake) build
« Reply #5 on: May 15, 2025, 01:25:35 PM »
Don't worry about the disc brake aspect. They require some different tools, but it really isn't that hard. Read up (watch up) on the process for your brake type (different ones have different preferred procedures even though the basics are usually the same) and be patient. And don't forget that if you have DOT fluid, you do not want that getting on anything. It's not instant death  :)  But it will corrode or remove paint. Water or IPA clean well so it isn't that big of a deal. You just have to do it.

If this new frame is 'normal' don't worry about it too much. The principles are usually the same on them all

Press fit parts (headset and sometimes BB) are a new skill set that does require tooling to do safely and well. But there are lots of low-cost but adequate quality tools around. Just don't use a hammer (which can be done but you can screw it up badly). This is in the category where you might just ask a pro to do this part for you if you don't want to buy tools

Di2 does require fitting cables avoided by AXS. But if the bike is designed for it, the routes should be available to you and not a big deal. Get a cheap cable/hose fish tool. Thin wires with magnets make it a breeze. I had to do one recently where it turned out that it was not possible to get the end fitting around the curve from the down tube to the chainstay without removing the BB (it was already installed from a prior build) I recommend running the wires as an early step to avoid these issues.

Get the cable routing tool. Cheap ones are fine. Cutting the fork straight is easier with a guide but you can do it by hand with the right saw. Don't forget how dangerous carbon dust is (wear a respirator and clean up) Again, you can pay a mechanic to do it for you once you've figured out the measurement.

General advice:
- Double check compatibility between parts. If it's all new stuff, it's usually not bad. But as soon as you vary vintages it can get interesting.
- Take your time with a first build. It's not that hard but can sometimes be a puzzle
- Use a torque wrench. Look up all the specs before you start so you're not tempted to cheat. Modern fine components whether metal or plastic (CF) are strong but intolerant of overtorquing. And slipping parts are bad. (make sure you have carbon grip compound)
- At every fitting, use lube, antiseize or loctite as appropriate. Your future self will appreciate it. Look up which is appropriate for each application if you don't know.
- As said before, don't be afraid to go to a pro. If they're any good, they'll appreciate you're trying not laugh at you :-)  A few dollars/euro is worth the peace of mind and avoiding damage. (or cheaper than the tool)  My first build came with a headset, but I wanted it out to service before the build. I could NOT get it out. Before I damaged something with my own ignorance, I took it in to the shop. When I came back, I asked if I'd done something wrong or if it was damaged. He told me (with a chuckle), that it was REALLY stuck. It took two of them to get it out.
- Have fun doing it. It's a real satisfaction to create your whole bike from parts. Don't worry if you get frustrated occasionally.