CRF-51 build, the last new frame with external cable routing?

[adam900710]

This one is built in Oct 2024, and I haven't yet find another Chinese frame that is light (~800g) and has the traditional semi-external cable routing.
With reliable and easy to remove, never slip, tried and true 68mm BSA BB.

The OEM allows extra customization, e.g. remove the cable/hose entrance on the non-drive side headtube, and block the mechanical FD cable exit.
The result is a slightly customized frame that only supports either semi-wireless or full-wireless electronic shifting.

I also owned a BigRock road frame, but the fully integrated cable routing and T47-86 BB is a nightmare to work with. Thus it only lasts less than 4 month before being replaced by this one.

Only two points I'm slightly not happy are:

- The oversized top tube
  My previous frames all have slim top tubes, thus this one is not to my taste.

- The RD cable exit is not Di2 friendly
  The exit is a little too far away from the RD, not a huge deal with my chainstay protector.

[Serge_K]

Interesting. Who's the OEM, how / where did you order? Price range? Where are you based?
How did the sale of the bigrock go, in terms of interest from buyers / depreciation?

Happy riding

[adam900710]

Interesting. Who's the OEM, how / where did you order? Price range? Where are you based?
How did the sale of the bigrock go, in terms of interest from buyers / depreciation?

Happy riding

The OEM has its own brand called PINAWORKS.
I ordered mine from taobao: https://shop101087830.taobao.com/shop/view_shop.htm?user_number_id=705762965

They provide quite some customization, from the color of painting to upgrade the fibers (thus slightly reduce the weight).

The price is around 3400 RMB (including 10% Aussie GST and shipping), that includes the upgrade to T800 fibers, the removal of the non-drive side cable entrance, thru-axles and headsets (which is not included by default).
But the customer service is in Chinese, so it can be problematic if one does not read/write Chinese.

The exact frame CRF51 is also re-branded as ONIRII ONE, with both fully-internal and semi-external models.
(And that's what leads me to the OEM, and saves around 2000 RMB)

I'm based in Australia (not Austria), taobao now provides official dispatch service to AU.

The BigRock frame is not yet for sale, as I failed to remove the T47 BB, I have to be blamed for the threadlocker, but the tiny flange is definitely not helping.
But I will never touch any threaded 86mm wide BB for my entire life any more.

[Serge_K]

Thanks, well done!

to remove the BB, i'd get a very long lever, and 4 hands. One person in charge of making sure the tool stays engaged with the teeth of the BB maybe wearing thick gloves to avoid pinching (or use a woodworking clamp with rubber contact points, maybe), and a long (long) tube as additional handle over the tool itself. That way you can smoothly apply enormous leverage / force, and it should work.
Same method to remove pedals that have almost fused into crank arms. The elegant answer is not to hammer on the tool, but to use a mega long lever arm.

[pavlo.k]

Thanks, well done!

to remove the BB, i'd get a very long lever, and 4 hands. One person in charge of making sure the tool stays engaged with the teeth of the BB maybe wearing thick gloves to avoid pinching (or use a woodworking clamp with rubber contact points, maybe), and a long (long) tube as additional handle over the tool itself. That way you can smoothly apply enormous leverage / force, and it should work.
Same method to remove pedals that have almost fused into crank arms. The elegant answer is not to hammer on the tool, but to use a mega long lever arm.

I've seen t47 tools with a clamping rod which should solve the problem. Haven't use one myself but will definitely get one once I have a t47 frame. It's a shame everyone is moving to t47, I'm personally not a fan of glued alu inserts since the bb shell debonded on my Canyon Spectral a few years back. It's also much easier to install and remove bb86 bb with a simple 20$ tool from ali and you don't have to worry about the corrosion or stripping the threads. And of course it's lighter

[adam900710]

Thank you guys for the help on the removal of T47 BBs.

I guess I need some kind of clamping tool, since I only have two hands.

For the rod tool, I didn't get how to use it properly. I guess inside the square hole there is something holding that nut end of the rod?
Any link for the rod tool?

Personally I'm not that anti-T47, especially I'm going to try some cheap Chinese DUB cranksets (LEESE on the way).

The problem is the width and tiny flange. In the past I tried some thread-together BB86s, they work fine until removal. And still can't get over the small scratches on my old TCR frames caused by the removal incident.
I'm totally happy with T47-68mm.

So pressfit for 86mm, and threaded for 68mm.

[adam900710]

Got the tool, for my case I just need BBT-RS to provide enough pressure.

Thank a lot for saving a frame!

[adam900710]

BBT-RS made the change.

Now the bigrock frame got its BB removed properly.
BBT-RS is really a must-have tool for the cursed T47-86 and other 86mm wide thread-together BBs.

[jonathanf2]

Nice build! I'm pretty sure that's an Aethos clone that can be found on AliExpress. This was the original clone version and later they also did a fully cable integrated design. I agree full integrated can be a hassle, but it's not so bad if running it with a non-integrated stem/bar and using a headset cover with the cable holes built-in. The only hassle is servicing the headset bearings, so it's a good idea to grease them well to minimize service replacement.