Headset Cracking Sound?

[robschwieb]

Are you very sure it's coming from the headset? The creaks on these carbon bikes are very hard to track down sometimes. I had creaks that I thought where coming from the headset and it ended up being from the seatpost.

I'm 100% positive it's coming from the headset. When I'm braking hard I'm out of the saddle and I've even tried without a seatpost just to make sure. I'll post a video here shortly with the noise I'm experiencing. Hopefully some pics when I tear down the headset again too.

[robschwieb]

Here is a video of the terrible sound. The recording kind of muffles it, but it's much more sharp and "cracking" sounding in person.

[MTB2223]

Are you very sure it's coming from the headset? The creaks on these carbon bikes are very hard to track down sometimes. I had creaks that I thought where coming from the headset and it ended up being from the seatpost.

So true, don't focus only on your headset.
I had something the same. Thought it was my bb, but it was a bearing in my rear hub which cause the creaking. And that not alone, I needed to put some grease at the point where the hub contacts the frame.
So, find someone you can borrow a tapered fork and headset bearing. And try. It's not a quick search, but you did already tried so much. Replace some parts with borrowed ones. 
I hope you find it soon.

[robschwieb]

Finally got around to taking pics of everything today. I am really concerned with the cups on the integrated headset. It's hard to see in the pictures but the marks in the cups are actually grooves with depth and ridges easily felt by hand. I think this might be the issue with the top bearing shifting because there is some pretty significant scaring/wear marks on the face and edge of the bearing where it should seat.

[RS VR6]

I can't really tell from the pictures...but double check that the bearings are 45/45.

You can use something like this: http://www.jensonusa.com/!D2xBgoZtgZgI4LRKFRe5AQ!/FSA-Integrated-Crown-Race-Reducer?utm_source=FRGL&utm_medium=organic&gclid=CMmfhr6uiccCFVAkgQodECwHqw

and run the stock headset.

[robschwieb]

I can't really tell from the pictures...but double check that the bearings are 45/45.

You can use something like this: http://www.jensonusa.com/!D2xBgoZtgZgI4LRKFRe5AQ!/FSA-Integrated-Crown-Race-Reducer?utm_source=FRGL&utm_medium=organic&gclid=CMmfhr6uiccCFVAkgQodECwHqw

and run the stock headset.

They are 45/45. This frame didn't include a stock Chinese headset but I do have a cheap FLYXII headset on the way. It's the typical ones that are usually included with these frames. Do you think the ridges and groves in the headtube cups are any concern? Especially considering the wear marks on the bearings?

[RS VR6]

The wear marks are concerning. If the bearings are scoring cups in the headtube...that can be bad news. Try fitting the new bearings and see if they make noise.

If it still does...who knows...it may me a manufacturing defect on the frame makers side. It's possible that the cups the bearings rest in were not molded correctly. Stranger things have happened.

[Carbon_Dude]

I would not expect to see any wear or scrape marks on the OD of the bearing.  It does appear as though the bearing is not fitting correctly into the frame.

[robschwieb]

Just an update,

Yesterday I received my FLYXII headset and after installing, the cracking sound still remained.

I've convinced the eBay seller to send a replacement frame at no cost. It looks like it shipped today so hopefully this one will be in better condition! Not looking forward to tearing down and rebuilding though, hydraulic brakes combined with internal cable routing isn't my idea of fun!

[Carbon_Dude]

Wow, I am surprised an eBay seller is giving you decent customer service.

[robschwieb]

So, I received my replacement frame...let's just say I'm not exactly a happy camper
The rear threads for the rear brake caliper are all messed up and not even close to true as you can see in the following pictures. What can even be done for this??

[MTB2223]

You're not the first one: http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,465.msg4700.html#msg4700

[Vipassana]

That's bad. 

In theory, you could drill the hole out, straight, and use a thread insert (like helicoil) to repair the hole.  Something like this kit: 

http://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5546-6-Metric-Coarse-Thread/dp/B0002KKPXK

(or M5 or whatever the original thread is)


I've used kits like that to repair threads/holes dozens of times with good success.  But it still a bummer that you have to do that.  And the chances of drilling the hole straight might not be that good depending on your skill level and the room you have to work in relative to the chain/seat stays.

[cmh]

That's bad. 

In theory, you could drill the hole out, straight, and use a thread insert (like helicoil) to repair the hole.  Something like this kit: 

http://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5546-6-Metric-Coarse-Thread/dp/B0002KKPXK

(or M5 or whatever the original thread is)


I've used kits like that to repair threads/holes dozens of times with good success.  But it still a bummer that you have to do that.  And the chances of drilling the hole straight might not be that good depending on your skill level and the room you have to work in relative to the chain/seat stays.

In my experience that angle is really tough, I often need to use a different tool for the front screw as the back screw due to interference with the seat stay. Drilling that hole straight considering you're working with an existing hole that isn't would be tricky as hell. I'd say that's something that the manufacturer should be replacing. That's a pretty clear and easy to demonstrate defect.

[Vipassana]

I agree with you CMH.  It seems like a last resort only.