CS-057 Gravel Grinder Build

[Quags]

Just finished my CS-057 build. Long time lurker.  Gathered tons of info from the site.  Incredible bike.  Intended to be a levee rider.  Mostly gravel roads.  Went on a 26 mile test ride last evening.  Surprisingly smooth, fast, and felt very plush.  Not a harsh ride at all.  Dealing with Peter was great.  The 1x10 XT drive train came off my FS Trek Fuel EX8 which received 1x11 XT upgrade.  Saddle came off the parts bin.  Build list:

•   CS-057 Frame
•   142x12 Rear Dropout
•   NECO Headset
•   SP7 Seatpost
•   Seatpost Clamp
•   BC6 Bottle Cage (x2)
•   Shimano XT 10 Speed Crankset
•   Shimano XT 10 Speed Rear Mech
•   Shimano XT 10 Speed Trigger Shifter
•   Shimano XT 10 Speed Cassette (11-36)
•   Wolf Tooth Giant Cog
•   Wolf Tooth 16T Cog
•   Race Face Narrow/Wide (34T)
•   KMC 10 Speed Chain
•   Crank Brothers Candy 2
•   Shimano Deore M615 Brakes (180mm front and 160mm rear rotors)
•   Stan's Arch EX 29
•   Maxxis Ikon 3C EXC EXO Folding Tire 2.35
•   Maxxis Ikon 3C EXC EXO Folding Tire 2.2
•   RockShox Reba RL Solo Air Forks - 15mm 2016
•   Bontrager Race
•   ODI Grips
•   Easton EA70 Stem
•   Easton EC70 Handlebar

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[Carbon_Dude]

Nice build!  Your bike is way more capable than just grinding gravel, that will work for XC and Trail as it's not far off from my -057 which I ride at my local trails where there are also lots of FS bikes.

[Quags]

Thanks!

My main trail bike is FS Trek but this one will definitely get a few trips for sure.  As a matter of fact, I'm doing a 62 mile Everglades ride event next Sunday with it.  Looking forward to it. 

[Carbon_Dude]

That's a bunch of miles in a day on a mountain bike!  Even on flat terrain.  Good luck with your ride, hope you have a good time.

[Quags]

66 mile Everglades ride completed successfully on the CS-057.  No issues.  Nice and fast ride.

[Patrick C.]

Nice!  Great looking bike. 

I agree though, calling it a "Gravel Grinder" is really selling it short.  It's pretty much the same as my -057, but I have a SID instead of a Reba and a 2X up front.  I'd wager it could handle just about any trail in Florida

[Quags]

Definitely can handle a lot more....there just isn't much down here to challenge....

[Giraffoto]

Looks good! I'm thinking of this very frame, and a very similar build (apart from a rigid fork). I've a couple of questions:
(1) which BB option did you go for?
(2) Is routing the brake line as simple as disconnect from the lever, remove the olive and poke it through the hole?
(3) is the gear cable routing set up so that you only have a piece of outer cable from the lever to where it goes in the frame, or is it a full-length outer cable that's threaded all the way through the frame?

[Patrick C.]

On mine, I went with BSA (and 135 QR rear end to be totally retro ).

Routing the brake line really was that simple.  Some frames come with plastic "guide" tubes installed, but mine didn't.  I had no problems feeding the line through from the rear.

The shifter cable is setup to only use the outer sleeve outside the frame.  I did mine this way, and have had no problems with shifting for nearly 2 years now (XT front and rear, the 'end pieces' fit snugly in the frame, and you could seal them with silicone or similar if you like).  Others have drilled out the entry to run a full length housing, but unless you are always riding in mud and never wash the bike I would try bare cable first.

[Carbon_Dude]

Pretty much the same as Patrick C for me.

1)  BSA BB.
2)  Brake line routing very easy, just fed the line from the chainstay up to the head tube, I think mine does have a liner though.
3)  Rear derailleur cable was very easy, bare cable in frame, cut to length cable housing outside the frame.

[Quags]

1) BSA....easiest to remove and clean.  Better seal, in my opinion, than press fit
2) I used the "no bleed method".  Housing fed easily from the rear. 
3) I think there is a sleeve inside the frame.  Housing from lever to top of frame, then bare cable, and housing from rear to derailleur.....no issues

[vicious meister]

explain no bleed method ,por Favor

[Giraffoto]

explain no bleed method ,por Favor

This method worked for me, with Shimano Deore (596) brakes . . .

Prop the bike in the workstand, if you have one.

Adjust the position of the lever slightly so that the reservoir is vertical, with the oil port at the top.

Get the pads out of the rear caliper. Of course you do the rear first - if you screw it up the bike will still be relatively safe to ride to the LBS. Put the pads safely out of the way

Put a folded up business card between the pistons and rotor on both sides. This is a bit of overkill to stop the two bits of metal bothering one another

Pump the brake lever until the pistons are out a few millimetres on each side.

Push back the rubber cover on the end of the hose and undo the hose joint nut with an 8mm spanner (crescent wrench for Americans), having mode a note of how far it's screwed in before you start

Pull the hose out of the lever. It may take quite a pull

Get the olive off the hose. If it's jammed, cut the end off the hose

Cut the hose off to the required length with a sharp knife and route it where you want it to go

Discard any offcut of hose (which has a small amount of oil still in it, so discard it into a plastic bag, don't just put it on the bench: there is now nothing to stop the oil pouring out of it)

Clamp the end of the hose in your Shimano clamping blocks, and hammer the hose insert in. All three of the other bits will fit over this, so don't waste time getting them on in order before you put the insert in.

Now put the rubber cover, hose joint nut and olive in place and give the hose a firm shove back into the lever. Tighten the hose joint nut until it's screwed in as far as it was before

Undo the oil cap on the lever. Screw your Shimano bleed funnel into it in case what you do next makes it overflow.

Use a couple of suitably thin levers to push the pistons back into the caliper. Put the pads back in, and don't forget the split pin. Also don't forget to spread it at the end when it's through.

Carefully remove the Shimano bleed funnel and put the cap back in. When you pushed the pistons back it will have forced oil out of the caliper, up the hose and back into the lever. And possibly out the top, too. If you're lucky, there won't be any air bubbles involved and you won't need to bleed the brakes.

Tighten everything back up, move the brake lever to where you had it before, and give it a test

This has worked brilliantly the four times I've done it, although I've only ever used it for swapping hoses left to right (and vice versa) and shortening them.

[Patrick C.]

I think I got some air in my rear brake line when I installed it- there was no resistance on the first 'pump' of the brake lever, but after a few squeezes it felt normal.  As long as you don't lay down the cable and let all the oil drain out, this is the worst thing that can go wrong- you wind up having to bleed the brakes at the handle, which is pretty simple for the Shimano ones.

[DirtyForks]

Never built a bike before, but I think I'm going to order a CS-057 from Peter.

Does anyone know how much brake cable and derailleur cable is required for the CS-057 build? This is probably going about it back asswards, but I want Peter to paint it a colour that matches the Pantone of a cable I saw, so I need to order the cable first.