My FM-057 Build Thread.

[Izzy]

There are apparently only two possible configurations with the spacers. You will use at least one of them, and they mount between the bearing cup and the bottom bracket shell.. If you have a 68mm wide bottom bracket shell, then you need 2 spacers on drive side and one on non-drive side. If you have 73mm shell then you only need one on the drive side. That is if you are using a triple crankset. If you're using the Shimano double crankset with a 73mm BB you would still only use one spacer, but on the non drive side - This will apparently give you the optimal chain line.

A quick measurement of the 057 BB puts it at 73mm, and I'm using the triple crankest.. so one drive side bottom bracket spacer/o-ring it is.

That's good info to know. Will def need to know this in a few weeks (hopefully!)

[Carbon_Dude]

A little different than for a SRAM GXP bottom bracket on my XX1 setup.  Per SRAM's installation instructions:

Use calipers to measure the bottom bracket shell width of your frame.

• 68 mm bottom bracket shells require one 2.5 mm spacer on each side of the bottom bracket shell.
  
• 73 mm bottom bracket shells do not require spacers.

[Sitar_Ned]

So today is bottom bracket / crank install day.

Started off a bit rocky because when I attempted to thread in the non-drive side bearing cup by hand.. I couldn't get it to thread into the bottom bracket at all. After having the drive side one thread in with ease until seated against the frame, and then reading that both sides should easily be able to be threaded in by hand with ease.. I was a bit nervous.

Luckily, my tool kit just so happened to arrive today, and when I took the bottom bracket tool to the bearing cup, it went right in. Pretty nice tool kit from what i can tell. Nothing seems overly cheap, but I'm sure if I had a Park set sitting right next to it, the difference would be obvious. Nice starter set, depending on how much i find myself using them, I may want to upgrade.




Not sure what the resistance was from as I cleaned and lubed the bottom bracket threads, but it's in there now, so I'm not going to worry about it. Maybe just some tight tolerances, who knows. But I was super careful to properly thread them in, as messing up the bottom bracket threading was the last thing I wanted to happen. Glad I had the right tool for the job. In hindsight, seems silly that tools were the absolute last thing that I purchased for this build. Should have been one of the first.

Either way.. for now, all is well:



I found this video pretty helpful in understanding the basics of the install process:



This is where I'm at currently:



Turns out that the drive shaft may need some coaxing with a rubber mallet, in order to fully insert. I'm highly uncomfortable with the thought of doing this but according to this MTBR thread that I found, it's a fairly common thing when installing the latest Shimano cranks:

http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-shifters-derailleurs-cranks/how-do-you-install-xt-m770-10-hollow-tech-ii-cranks-740777.html


A bit of a pain, but at least it'll be pretty when it's done.. I think the Raceface wide narrow chainring matches the SLX crank arms perfectly. Almost like the crank arm graphics fade into the chainring.

[Carbon_Dude]

For my IP-057 both external BB cups threaded in by hand, however, on the IP-036 only one side threaded in by hand.  The other side required the BB tool and a little effort.  When carefully cleaning the grease off, inspecting the threads I did not see anything that would cause a problem.  When I ran the point is a pick tool around the groove of the thread I could feel some roughness.  I think what I felt was some clear resin that got on the threads and cured.  I scraped a bit in the groove and it improved a bit but that side is still not like the other.

My Shimano cranks, when I had them, would require a few whacks with a rubber mallet, not required for SRAM cranks though.

[Sitar_Ned]

Okay, that's good to hear then. Yeah, I also thought I felt a bit of roughness on the threads of the SLX bottom bracket which I'm sure contributed to the tight fit. I couldn't imagine a brand new set of mid/high end Shimano cranks could come out of the box like that, but maybe they did.. or possibly dried resin, like you said.

The good news is no mallet was needed (good thing bc I didn't have one and was in the process of making my own "padded" hammer lol), all I had to do was go to the non-drive side of the bike, and grip the outside of the bikes bottom bracket and the Raceface chainring with my best hamburger grip, and squeeze as hard as I could.. popped right into place. Sweet.

[Carbon_Dude]

If I didn't like XX1 so much I would have done what you are doing with the Shimano 1x10 Type 2 R/D, and a narrow/wide chain ring.  I would also have looked into a Wolftooth or Oneup 42T rear cog.  The only other thing you gain with XX1 is the 10T rear cog and the convenience of being able to swap out the chain ring w/o the need to remove the crank.  I've also grown to like the SNAP-SNAP positive click you get with the SRAM shifter.  Both are good though and I guess you save about $500 hundred bucks going SLX 1x10.

[Sitar_Ned]

Yeah, mainly it was the price difference that made my decision easy.. and then when I started seeing the Wolftooth and Oneup 42T rear cogs come out it was an even easier decision. Even though many of those using the 42T cogs have reported issues, I figure it's just a matter of time before everything is sorted out and riders and manufacturers have figured how to make this work flawlessly.

I think I may actually look into the Hope T-Rex 40T cog. From what I can gather, perhaps the smaller jump to the 40T rather than to a 42T will be a smoother transition.

42T on the left, 40T on the right:

[Sitar_Ned]

So all in all.. Bottom bracket / crank install day went rather smoothly.



Starting to look like an actual bike at this point:



So, I hadn't taken all of the bubble wrap off of the fork until today and I was unaware that the Manitou Tower Pro had such an odd shaped crown, and it's on the opposite side. Very industrial. Not sure if I like it yet. Doesn't matter as i would've bought it anyways simply bc of the $250 price tag.

[Andy]

Really starting to look good.  Good job SN! 

Is that a 30 or a 32 tooth RF chainring.  Also may I ask, where did you pick up the fork for $250?  Thanks,
Andy.

[Sitar_Ned]

Really starting to look good.  Good job SN! 

Is that a 30 or a 32 tooth RF chainring.  Also may I ask, where did you pick up the fork for $250?  Thanks,
Andy.

Thanks a lot Andy!

That would be a 32T RF chainring.. Still unsire if i may should have gotten the 30T. I guess I'll find out soon enough.

The fork was on sale at PricePoint for $250 just about a month and a half ago.. Sales over now, but I'm sure they'll have another. Just not sure when. By far the most fork you can get for that price imo, unless you buy used, of course. Even then it didn't seem like i was able to find a better deal than the Tower Pro. Looking forward to getting it on the trails as all of the reviews seem to highlight it's small bump compliance, which is what was most important to me. I really wanted 100mm rather than 80mm, but other than that it seemed like the perfect fork at the perfect price.

[brmeyer135]

For others putting their crank together, I put the axle in the freezer and tried using a hair dryer on the bb area.  Not sure the hair dryer helped (didn't use it very long). 
I have the bb30 bb.  If you messed with bmx bikes cranks, then it is nearly the same.
I used a diy bolt set up.  I tried doing both bearings at same time.  They went in cockeyed.
I ended up banging onthem with a hammer to get them in.  I figured there would be a problem and I would be doing it again....but no so fa4 so good.  I suspect they will quicker but Enduro has the 6806 bearings (hybrid ceramic) for less than 20 each.
Ultimately, don't be afraid to be physical with it.

[Sitar_Ned]

Freeze them, huh? I assume you read this somewhere or just had a moment of clarity? I guess it would help though.

I almost ordered the 057 frame with bb30 as it seems from a purely theoretical perspective, that it would be the superior system, but I've just read too many people say to just stick with the standard bsa Shimano threaded bottom bracket. Perhaps, when I start my 036 build (or a different Chiner full suss if they produce a different design soon enough) then I'll try out the bb30 system. Like I said.. my brain wants to think it's superior. Still undecided, ultimately.

[Sitar_Ned]

Got three of four deliveries that I've been waiting on today. The last one is scheduled to arrive tomorrow, so now I can hopefully have the build complete by this weekend. Still haven't even cut the fork yet though, and also have to mount these Geax Saguaro TNT tires that are supposedly ridiculously difficult to get mounted on a Stan's style rim.

So, who knows.. but this weekend is definitely the goal!

[Andy]

Thanks for the update SN.  Looking forward to seeing the completed build and ride report. 

Ever thought about doing a little paint work to the frame or you just gonna leave it all black?  Either way it's gonna be sweet!

[Sitar_Ned]

Yeah I did consider some paint work, but I would've had it done at the factory just like Carbon_Dude did if I was going to go that route. I'm actually a pretty big fan of the color black so I'll probably leave it as is. My last bike was a 26er matte black Cannondale Rush and I always loved the stealthy look of that bike. It was a bonus to me that the 057 frame came in UD carbon matte black. I think it looks awesome.. but some bright and striking paint job would be sweet too. I reallt like the black and white color scheme of CD's 036.