CS-36 build in Cairns

[kaiser]

Ordered a set of carbon rims and frame from Peter at Xmcarbonspeed. It took a while for the frame to arrive. Apparently my size (15.5") had to be made up and matt painted. However everything arrived including my order of handlebars, stem and Neco Headset.

Ended up going a 1*10 - 32t on the front, and 36t the biggest on the back. Now this could either come back to bite me with some of the steeper trails around here or I just need to harden up a bit. Everything around here can be done with 1*11 and a friend has my setup and can ride the local trails OK. Time will tell. Worse case I downsize the front to a 28 or 30t. So I ordered a double chainring XT crankset with a 11 to 36t cluster and swapped the chainrings on the front for a single narrow wide.

So the build list is

2016 Xfusion RL2 slide forks (however a little heavy but strong)
Xfusion CLX2 CTD rear shock with remote (second hand)
XT drive chain and shifter
Rockshock dropper seatpost with remote lockout
Hygia elite brakes (from my old bike)

All of it went together fairly well. No real headaches except the stem from Peter needed some heavy sanding to make it fit the steering tube.

I couldnt fault the frame. It looked free of any defects and the inner cable guides were clean and easy to thread.

The rims look and feel good. Again no defects and seem to be laced true and the Norco hubs should be OK.

I havent taken it for a spin on the trails yet. A quick run around town and I feel well seated and balanced on it. I have been riding a Merida 96 26" since 2009 and I have now realised just how bad I was positioned on that bike. I feel like my weight is positioned perfectly between the wheels unlike the Merida where the weight was more the back wheel. Anyway the next trail ride Ill find out.

Just a note that there is another thread about a defect in the triangles bushing size and length thus creating flex in the triangle. I did notice some flex but I dont know what is acceptable and was is not. Ill have a look at the bushings today and see if I also have the incorrect bushing.

Would like to upload some photos but getting the error the upload folder is full, contact Admin.

[xcbarny]

I used Imgur to host my photos, then paste your photo URL to your reply (needs to be shared publicly). http://imgur.com/

Good luck with it. I'm down in Brisbane, and have a few friends riding the 256 frame from peter. They all love em - some a few years old now.

[kaiser]

Images of the bike.

In regards to the rear shock, Ill reverse it and allow the cable to run straight. Others have done this and have confirmed with FOX that it does not affect the shock at all.

I was in a recent race and this bike performed perfectly.

[MTB2223]

Looks really great!!! I like the stealth.

You have to change the way the cable of the front brake is running. It should be between your fork and your wheel, not at the outside of your fork. At the inside it will never get stuck behind branches.

[stockae92]

nice built.

I guess the only thing I can think of about reversing the rear shock body installation is that more sprung mass, cause the body is shock is more part of the moving element. I don't even know if that's going to be noticeable.

[Mike_Queyar]

Nice built...

[Patrick C.]

...this could either come back to bite me with some of the steeper trails around here or I just need to harden up a bit.

Well the obvious answer is...







Nice looking ride.  I have my front brake line on the outside too- seems more people like it on the inside, but I haven't snagged anything or damaged the line.  The clips on my SID seem to naturally route it to the outside, and it sits pretty tight to the fork.   

Do you plan to leave the rear brake line outside the frame?     edit- I see your dropper post line is using the internal route.  Can you run this through the front derailler route?

[kaiser]

I ran the dropper post cable through what would usually be used for the front derailer internal route and then ran it outside up to the seat. I wish I could run it concealed but was in no position to drill a hole in and through the internal route exit - which was suggested. If you did then you could run a cable inside right to the dropper over the crank.

[Jar_head]

Too many cables on that bike 
If they were at least all black.. I'm sorry, but like this it looks a bit too confusing and not really clean. 

Otherwise it's a nice build!