Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: radfactor on July 12, 2023, 01:48:06 AM
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While I casually browsing Aliexpress, I found this cool looks like an aero bike from Hygge.
The paint job looks great and it even sponsored a continental team from Poland, Team Bialini.
Is there anyone from this forum already test this frame?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005213767330.html
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/S10a384ddd6864351bda6c4e2692f15847.jpg)
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/Sc77263734f9d4c4c9686f5c3891a994bp.jpg)
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I've seen them on Ali and they do look nice from the pictures, but the only shipping option to my country is Fedex which costs roughly 1100 euros. Hard pass.
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No experience with the brand.
Looks like a VB168, a Long Teng 268, a Winow 368, and various Workswell models that are overpriced and impossible to get anyway.
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I really like the look of these frames. Especially the black and dark grey...
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This trend of one-bike-to-rule-them-all SL7 androdioecy needs to stop LoL.
I understand it both from a pragmatic and functional perspective. However, it's not as exciting anymore.
Uniformity is turning into conformity.
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I really like the look of these frames. Especially the black and dark grey...
True that. Other colors are pretty cool too or may be these guys are really good at taking photos. I messaged them on Alix and they do "without logo" version too at no extra cost as long as it is one of the colors from their list. The guy responding to my queries spoke really well too, confidence inspiring.
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Yeah, I crashed my 1 month old TFSA frame last sunday. Cracked the chainstay and would cost more than half the cost of a new frame to repair (without paint) so not really worth it. So this Hygge frame is now looking very tempting. There seems to be this matte gray where you can see the carbon structuren judging by the review picture...
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Yes, "no logo carbon black" shows the carbon layup apparently. Hope you are okay after the crash, sounds like a serious mishap.
Edit, did you buy your TFSA from TFSA Keming store? Those guys seem to have best prices for SL7 type framesets.
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Yes, "no logo carbon black" shows the carbon layup apparently. Hope you are okay after the crash, sounds like a serious mishap.
Thanks. Broke my collarbone and I have surgery tomorrow :-X
Ordered a Zwift Hub today so I can start moving again ASAP :)
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Whoops! Best wishes for the surgery then. You seem determined though...way to go!
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Thanks.
I bought the TFSA from the "TFSA Official Store" on Ali. I got the frame with the integrated handlebar for a nice price. There were some problem with pruduction and shipping though which delayed the order by about 2-3 weeks... I was't too happy with it at the time but all went relatively well and the frame (I took the sl6 lookalike) is quite OK. 28mm rear tire is very tight though...
I was quoted 250 eur for the repair, so not really worth it on a 450Eur frame...
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Maybe use the TFSA frame as a dedicated Zwift bike after some DIY repair with fiberglass or carbon layup with epoxy resin?
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Maybe use the TFSA frame as a dedicated Zwift bike after some DIY repair with fiberglass or carbon layup with epoxy resin?
That was exactly what I was planning. Cheap 2x11 sensah group...
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That was exactly what I was planning. Cheap 2x11 sensah group...
Dedicated Zwift bikes do seem to be the killer app for Sensah given that you don't even need to have brakes.
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Dedicated Zwift bikes do seem to be the killer app for Sensah given that you don't even need to have brakes.
Well, I changed my mind and hunted down some more Ultegra R8000 parts. Just got 2 hydraulic shifters, both derailleurs, cassette and chain for not much more money than the Sensah equivalent. Now I just need to find a nice pair of second hand disc brake callipers... I changed my mind because it would be a lot easier just to buy the same components so I don't need to switch out everything from one frame to the next. I ordered a Senicx PR3 30-46T crankset because it was on sale for only 74USD.
I'm also very close to ordering the Hygge frame. I asked the seller for some more pics of the matte carbon look and the black on black paint and they were very fast to answer and sent some nice pictures. I think I'm gonna go for the BOB with the logo's...
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Little update: I just ordered the Hygge model S in BoB (Black on black I suppose?) size 49 and a 80*380 handlebar. The seller is very fast to answer (one of the best I have dealt with till now). But they always are very helpful until the sale is made in my experience ;D After that it is a gamble...
They assured me the frame and handlebar are in stock and will be shipped in 2-3 days.
It will be build up with the Ultegra R8000 hydraulic groupset with mechanical shifting. I hope I will not regret getting an integrated frame with all these cables...
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You might already have the cable routing tool so you should be good even with 4 cables to manage. If not, definitely recommend to get one. I have RISK branded tool and for the price its rather effective.
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You might already have the cable routing tool so you should be good even with 4 cables to manage. If not, definitely recommend to get one. I have RISK branded tool and for the price its rather effective.
I've just re-built my fully mechanical VB-R-168 using the risk cable tool and it was pretty straight forward. Tool is well worth the money.
Started with routing the bars first, coming in through the stem and out through the each end of the bar. Then the frame from front to back.
The first time I built it I routed the frame first (again starting at the front) then did the bars, I would't recommend this way as it took WAY longer and was much more stressful.
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Thanks for the tip. I bought a routing set when I was building my Carbonda 696 but I haven't needed it till now, so we'll see how it goes.
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Hi sir,
It's great to hear you ordered this frameset. Yes I agree the salesperson is so attentive. Hopefully can hear more from you once you received it.
Little update: I just ordered the Hygge model S in BoB (Black on black I suppose?) size 49 and a 80*380 handlebar. The seller is very fast to answer (one of the best I have dealt with till now). But they always are very helpful until the sale is made in my experience ;D After that it is a gamble...
They assured me the frame and handlebar are in stock and will be shipped in 2-3 days.
It will be build up with the Ultegra R8000 hydraulic groupset with mechanical shifting. I hope I will not regret getting an integrated frame with all these cables...
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Hi sir,
It's great to hear you ordered this frameset. Yes I agree the salesperson is so attentive. Hopefully can hear more from you once you received it.
I will keep you all updated here. I hope it is indeed in stock and I receive the frame in about 2 weeks since I am out of a road-bike since the crash...
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Definitely keeping an eye out for the update. I have let go of the fascination I had with Airwolf all road and VB CX002 and looking for a purely road bike, the Chamaeleon-black color in this frame has me hooked.
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I have let go of the fascination I had with Airwolf all road and VB CX002
I own both of those frames and quite frankly neither of them get used anymore. Shame really because both are good.
At the end of the day I'm pure road guy. With frames, groupsets, and wheels being so affordable now you really don't need an all road frame unless you absolutely do not have the space for multiple bikes. All road bikes come with compromises at both ends of the road and gravel spectrum.
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I own both of those frames and quite frankly neither of them get used anymore. Shame really because both are good.
At the end of the day I'm pure road guy. With frames, groupsets, and wheels being so affordable now you really don't need an all road frame unless you absolutely do not have the space for multiple bikes. All road bikes come with compromises at both ends of the road and gravel spectrum.
True that! I also realized my VB GF002 is almost an all road since I exclusively run it on 32c GK SS. I bought and never ever installed the second wheel-set with 43c tires.
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So I've contacted their Ali store and asked about other possible shipping options (1.1k for Fedex is bit too much), after few measages and 40 minutes the seller has set up Aliexpress shipping option. I supposely it's partly because it was day time in China, but it's still the fastest communication I've experienced with Aliexpress.
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So I've contacted their Ali store and asked about other possible shipping options (1.1k for Fedex is bit too much), after few measages and 40 minutes the seller has set up Aliexpress shipping option. I supposely it's partly because it was day time in China, but it's still the fastest communication I've experienced with Aliexpress.
Yeah, same here. They are insanely fast and thourough...
I am guessing this is not some 1 person third party seller like most on Ali but it is a factory store... In the pictures they sent me there are boxes and boxes of frames on warehouse racks in the background.
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Yeah, same here. They are insanely fast and thourough...
I am guessing this is not some 1 person third party seller like most on Ali but it is a factory store... In the pictures they sent me there are boxes and boxes of frames on warehouse racks in the background.
Yeah, they have Facebook page and they have posted actual pictures of frame with ton of boxes visible in background. Also, there are pictures of molding of rim brake version of this frame
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The more I research this company/factory the more I like what they're doing.
Whether or not their frames are open mold it's nice to see the perception of an actual brand at this price point. Decals, paint options, and solid customer service it seems. A company like this can help alleviate some of the anxiety for first time Far East frame buyers.
I'm kind of tempted to test one their aero frame in either white or chameleon. Even though I criticized them earlier in this thread :-X
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FWIW their IG is one of the better ones too. Definitely not one man show operation. Talked to them again on Aliex and they sent some pictures of the chamaeleon color frame in different lighting because the ones on Aliex are pretty dark, and if I needed more they asked me check their IG page which has a lot of stuff posted.
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The more I research this company/factory the more I like what they're doing.
Whether or not their frames are open mold it's nice to see the perception of an actual brand at this price point. Decals, paint options, and solid customer service it seems. A company like this can help alleviate some of the anxiety for first time Far East frame buyers.
I'm kind of tempted to test one their aero frame in either white or chameleon. Even though I criticized them earlier in this thread :-X
I think the frame is their own mold. They have shown pictures of new mold of rim brake version and I haven't had any luck in finding someone else sell this frame under their brand
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Eager to know if the quality of this frame is great or not. If and only if, at least the quality is the same as Speeder R52D, it will be a great bang for the buck frameset.
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Isn't the Speeder around $750 just for the frameset with handlebar? That would make it over 30% more expensive than Hygge.
Did some more research, it's the same mold as Winow FM236. I wonder if they just use the same tooling/molding or are they actually made by the same factory.
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Little update:
Since they said they would ship in 2-3 days and we are now on day 3 I decided to ask for an update... They responded very fast, but it was an answer I have gotten a lot from sellers when buying a frame lately: "The factory is painting the frame". I was a little annoyed by this since my last frame purchases were riddled with delays like this* so I have lost trust in Ali sellers by now...
They responded later that the factory was ready with painting and the frame will be shipped tomorrow.
Will keep you guys updated...
* A few examples of seller problems:
===- OG-Evkin has been promising to send me a replacement frame for my CF-052 HT frame with cracked BB for A MONTH now. Communication has gaps of a week and it's always "next week this and next week that". The factory is now painting the frame according to them (after 1 month) and should be shipped "next week". I will have to pay for shipping, and they have been promising to send the payment link for weeks now (it's always "tomorrow"). Since they will not send this payment info I am sceptical they will even send me a frame and for the time being I will presume they are keeping me occupied by just promising stuff until I give up.
- When ordering my TFSA frame I really had to keep pushing the seller and it took ages for them to confess something had gone wrong in production so there would be delays. Shipping also wasn't smooth and the frame was stuck for more than a week not far from the factory
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So anther day, another delay...
This morning there was a message that they had already packed the order but they put a 90*380 handlebar in and asked if this was OK (I ordered the 80*380).
Since I am very picky about my position on the bike I said I needed the 80mm.
Their answer: Is a 80*400 OK because the 80*380 will take some more days...
I again said I need the 80*380... Before I ordered I specifically asked if this was in stock and they said yes.
So for the time being I am not very impressed by this seller... We'll see how it goes on. The 2-3 days shipping they promised, will be closer to one week. Still not bad but I really don't like the constant over-promising and under-delivering...
I just don't get why all these sellers keep making promises they know they won't keep.... (well, of course they do this to get you to order...)
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They answer fast but their answers are...
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They answer fast but their answers are...
Haha. This made me chuckle, not gonna lie.
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I just don't get why all these sellers keep making promises they know they won't keep.... (well, of course they do this to get you to order...)
Exact same thing I had happen with me a few days ago. Hope you get it soon.
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I understand all the frustration. Unfortunately, this is normal when contacting some sellers thru AliEx especially when there are using auto-translation.
This is different when we contact reputable sellers such as Farsports and Elitewheels and professional ones such as Speeder Cycling and Adapt Bikes.
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Is it just my app going crazy or did the prices of all Hygge products went up by 200€? Frame was around 600, now it's 800, Pro wheels were around 800, now they are over 1000, cheaper level wheels were 500, now they are over 700.
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Is it just my app going crazy or did the prices of all Hygge products went up by 200€? Frame was around 600, now it's 800, Pro wheels were around 800, now they are over 1000, cheaper level wheels were 500, now they are over 700.
You are right. I would just wait a couple of days. I have seen this happen when I ordered my TFSA frame. Chances are it will go back to normal after a while.
FYI: My frame has shipped yesterday... (although we all know "shipped" can have a lot of different meanings on Aliexpress)
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Prices back to normal it seems...
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Was advised that rim brake version will be coming online this month. Smalls first, followed by mediums.
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Is it just my app going crazy or did the prices of all Hygge products went up by 200€? Frame was around 600, now it's 800, Pro wheels were around 800, now they are over 1000, cheaper level wheels were 500, now they are over 700.
this is kinda common on Aliexpress.. items are permanently on 'sale' with some discount, and on Aliexpress sales they drop more, so every now and then the price goes up for a few days (max) then comes back down
so they can say it's the full price, and advertise you're paying 25% off, and on actual sales it's 50% off - while, in reality, it's less than that discounts
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Today from their FB page. Dang that looks good.
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My frame seems to be in Germany since yesterday, so I'm hoping to receive it in the next couple of days. So it has been very fast shipping until now.
Edit: the frame should be here tomorrow. That's VERY fast :)
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Please do let us know what you think about the frame when you receive it
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And tell us about this issue ???
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Edit: removed post because of Hygge stealing my pictures.
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Ooooh, so it is that new paintwork that Patrick has shared pics from their Facebook page :o
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Ooooh, so it is that new paintwork that Patrick has shared pics from their Facebook page :o
No, this is the BOB option. Part matte and part glossy. The pics that Patrick posted are all glossy over the naked carbon I believe
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No, this is the BOB option. Part matte and part glossy. The pics that Patrick posted are all glossy over the naked carbon I believe
I see, thanks for clearing that up. I'll probably order this frame as well, had few different options but it seems like this frame has the mix of good looks, decent clearance for tyres and threaded BB. And the handlebar seems to be the same as The One/Kovlici/Rpantahi etc
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Edit: removed post because of Hygge stealing my pictures.
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Nice frame! I definitely like the bare carbon look under the gloss, looks very slick! Also the threaded BB area looks clean as well.
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Dang, that's a nice frame!! Very beautiful! Finishing seems really nice too, and that color with the carbon visible is insane, it gives a nice touch to the parts
please keep updated about the next steps on the build and any difficulty you run into, I'm planning on building a new bike next year, and Hygge is definitely in my radar!
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Dang, that's a nice frame!! Very beautiful! Finishing seems really nice too, and that color with the carbon visible is insane, it gives a nice touch to the parts
please keep updated about the next steps on the build and any difficulty you run into, I'm planning on building a new bike next year, and Hygge is definitely in my radar!
Damn, I should have asked for an influencer discount ;D
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The BB area looks much more beefier than the TFSA frame. I'd be curious to hear how this bike rides in comparison.
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Glossy parts are black paint with glossy varnish above or it is the raw carbon directly varnished in matte and glossy?
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Glossy parts are black paint with glossy varnish above or it is the raw carbon directly varnished in matte and glossy?
It's all paint over raw carbon. You see all the carbon under the paint.
I've just put the cables through the handlebar. I was afraid of this because I never did it, but it went quite well :D
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The new color pictures that Pat shared and what TD bought seem to be same except for the black v/s shiny laser decals?
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The new color pictures that Pat shared and what TD bought seem to be same except for the black v/s shiny laser decals?
Nope. Pat's all glossy. Mine is half glossy half matte.
And the decals are different indeed. I didn't want them to be too obvious.
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Wonder if you could order no logo/decals?
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I've been in constant touch with them (Aaron?) pushing them to get their rim brake version made available...only have size 49 on hand, others to follow soon. He assured me that they will customize almost any color/logo combination that is within their capabilities. Check out their Instagram for some examples.
This is a smoking deal if the quality is real.
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Wonder if you could order no logo/decals?
You can but takes longer than ones with logo because they produce frames with logo by default and are kept in stock.
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You can but takes longer than ones with logo because they produce frames with logo by default and are kept in stock.
I think it will not matter. They said my frame was in stock but after I ordered they still had to paint it. So "in stock" does only mean they have a raw frame in your size it seems :)
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Edit: removed post because of Hygge stealing my pictures.
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Edit: removed post because of Hygge stealing my pictures.
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I did the cabling yesterday evening. It took me about 2 hours >:(
I really was thinking this would take me a lot less time, but it was my first time doing a fully integrated cabling and the 4 cables really don't make it easy. So I attribute the difficulties more on my lack of experience with this kind of routing than on the frame. Doing the routing from the front to the back (I started with the handlebars) makes things a lot harder than the other way around when going through the frame.
The rest will be for tomorrow...
Does anyone know if it is normal that the handlebar now centres on it's own because of the cables in the frame? If I tilt the frame to one side the handlebar stays in the centre and does not tilt to one side... For now the brifters are not mounted, so it's only the weight of the bar.
I recently built 4 like that. Such a pain. Especially when you realize you forgot to pass through the spacer thing between the frame and the bars, and have to re-do it :) Depending on the order of the cables exiting the stem and entering the frame, it can mess up the balance of things. If it's centered, I guess it's good. I have no issues turning the bars 90 degrees or more when the bike goes in the car, for eg, and the routing has not negatively impacted handling for me.
My next builds will be w eR9, looking forward to routing 2 housings and not 4...
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I recently built 4 like that. Such a pain. Especially when you realize you forgot to pass through the spacer thing between the frame and the bars, and have to re-do it :) Depending on the order of the cables exiting the stem and entering the frame, it can mess up the balance of things. If it's centered, I guess it's good. I have no issues turning the bars 90 degrees or more when the bike goes in the car, for eg, and the routing has not negatively impacted handling for me.
My next builds will be w eR9, looking forward to routing 2 housings and not 4...
Yeah, it looks great, but now I know why I ordered my TFSA frame without the all internal cabling...
And it looks like the upper bearing is also not really sealed from the elements because there is a tiny gap (barely visible though) between the headset cover and the frame. On the TFSA frame there is a rubber seal between that cover and the frame. I guess this is standard with these fancy headset covers but it does not help to keep the water off the upper bearing. I can't imagine the hell I must go through to replace that bearing in the future :o
I also like to use a lot of grease on the headset bearings when installing. I put a lot of grease everywhere before routing the cables, so after wrestling for a couple of minutes with all the cables/ fork/frame/handlebar everything was full of grease. Should have kept the grease for the end...
And the handlebar is more or less centred and I can move it freely from left to right. It only just does not fall to one side when you tilt the frame like it does on my other (non fully integrated) frames.
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Couple of questions - Aliexpress listing shows that 4 spacera are included, are they 10mm spacers or 5mm? Or a mix of two?
Do you perhaps know what's the offset of the searpost? It looks to be around 15mm, but just want to make sure. Still not sure if geometry of the bike is what I want - both seat tube amd head tube angles are pretty slack. The bike should be super steady at higher speeds, but I can't say I want a dead steering either
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I found the same geometry from another brand:
539,83€ 20%OFF | Winowsports 2024 New Carbon Bicycle Frame FM236 Road Disc Brake Frame 46/49/52/55cm BSA68 Bottom Bracket
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EGc5Q87
So if it's the same, as this Winow frame specifies, it should fit a Tarmac D-shape seatpost
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Couple of questions - Aliexpress listing shows that 4 spacera are included, are they 10mm spacers or 5mm? Or a mix of two?
Do you perhaps know what's the offset of the searpost? It looks to be around 15mm, but just want to make sure. Still not sure if geometry of the bike is what I want - both seat tube amd head tube angles are pretty slack. The bike should be super steady at higher speeds, but I can't say I want a dead steering either
18mm offset is the seatpost
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Couple of questions - Aliexpress listing shows that 4 spacera are included, are they 10mm spacers or 5mm? Or a mix of two?
Do you perhaps know what's the offset of the searpost? It looks to be around 15mm, but just want to make sure. Still not sure if geometry of the bike is what I want - both seat tube amd head tube angles are pretty slack. The bike should be super steady at higher speeds, but I can't say I want a dead steering either
As far as I can tell, I have 3 spacers. 2 of 10mm and 1 of 5mm. And than there is the part that covers the headset and the part that goes right under the stem. It all fits very nicely and looks very good once installed. I used 1 spacer of 10mm for now.
It's this handlebar. Here you can clearly see all the parts: https://a.aliexpress.com/_msz3dSW (https://a.aliexpress.com/_msz3dSW)
The angles are indeed more slack compared to my TFSA (Tarmac SL6 clone) and it seems to be somewhat in the middle of the SL6 and my gravel bike (Carbonda 696).
Since I'm more about distance and less about speed, I think this might be a good thing. I must confess I did not check this before ordering ;D
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I found the same geometry from another brand:
539,83€ 20%OFF | Winowsports 2024 New Carbon Bicycle Frame FM236 Road Disc Brake Frame 46/49/52/55cm BSA68 Bottom Bracket
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EGc5Q87
So if it's the same, as this Winow frame specifies, it should fit a Tarmac D-shape seatpost
It looks to be the same. But according to that page, the recommended sizes are totally different... According to their chart I should have gone with the 46 instead of the 49 :o
How do you know the Tarmac seat post will fit? That would be very interesting for the future...
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It looks to be the same. But according to that page, the recommended sizes are totally different... According to their chart I should have gone with the 46 instead of the 49 :o
How do you know the Tarmac seat post will fit? That would be very interesting for the future...
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I'm 95% sure that what they mean is proprietary seatpost. Seen this on many different listings of different frames (specialized as in made specially for the frame)
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I'm 95% sure that what they mean is proprietary seatpost. Seen this on many different listings of different frames (specialized as in made specially for the frame)
Yeah, that's what I was thinking also...
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I'm 95% sure that what they mean is proprietary seatpost. Seen this on many different listings of different frames (specialized as in made specially for the frame)
Yes, I asked it :'(
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Edit: removed post because of Hygge stealing my pictures.
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Looks very clean. How was the build experience with this frame?
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Looks very clean. How was the build experience with this frame?
It was OK. Not much to report :)
It would be nice if they had supplied some grommets / stoppers for the cables. Now the cable of the rear and front derailleur and the rear brake just pass through a hole in the frame. I'll see if I can add some grommets to the front and read derailleur cable if I can find some.
The standard bolt with the fixing pin for the rear caliper was too long, so I had to use a shorter one I had lying around.
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It was OK. Not much to report :)
It would be nice if they had supplied some grommets / stoppers for the cables. Now the cable of the rear and front derailleur and the rear brake just pass through a hole in the frame. I'll see if I can add some grommets to the front and read derailleur cable if I can find some.
The standard bolt with the fixing pin for the rear caliper was too long, so I had to use a shorter one I had lying around.
That's a slick looking frame! I'm tempted to pick one up and set it up with electronic shifters!
You didn't use a stopper for the rear? That will cause shift issues if the RD cable isn't held in place. My SPcycle frame was setup for Di2 and didn't come with an RD cable stopper. I couldn't find a stopper that would fit (smaller than normal), so I ended up using a Jagwire barrel rocket adjuster instead that did the trick.
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You didn't use a stopper for the rear? That will cause shift issues if the RD cable isn't held in place. My SPcycle frame was setup for Di2 and didn't come with an RD cable stopper. I couldn't find a stopper that would fit (smaller than normal), so I ended up using a Jagwire barrel rocket adjuster instead that did the trick.
Well, it is full outer housing front to back, so I don't see the problem. Am I missing something? It would just look better to put a grommet around the hole in the frame where the cable exits...
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Well, it is full outer housing front to back, so I don't see the problem. Am I missing something? It would just look better to put a grommet around the hole in the frame where the cable exits...
I thought you were using the plastic guide tubes internally. Just curious, you don't find using the full cable housing on the RD a bit stiff? Usually the supplied cable on Shimano rear derailleurs tend to be more flexy.
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I thought you were using the plastic guide tubes internally. Just curious, you don't find using the full cable housing on the RD a bit stiff? Usually the supplied cable on Shimano rear derailleurs tend to be more flexy.
Yes, it is stiff, but since the frame is fully integrated I don't see any other way of routing than 1 cable from front to back with outer housing. There are no stops anywhere in the frame to stop the cable...
After a couple of indoor rides I have a better feeling of the frame. I had to replace the carbon seat by my standard seat to decrease the setback of the saddle (the carbon does not go forward far enough) and now my seat is in the most forward position possible... I could have seen this coming because the TFSA frame had the same and this had a less slack seattube angle... I am aware this problem will not impact a lot of people because I seem to like a more forward position than most (kneecap right above the pedal axle is too far back for me, so I set it a few cm more foreward)...
I have asked Hygge if they have a 0mm setback seatpost, but since there is non on their webshop I expect the answer to be no...
Edit: I also asked the Ali store that sells the Winow frame (same frame). There is no seatpost without setback for now, but if I order 100 they will design one 8)
Edit #2: Hygge also said they don't have it and suggested I search Aliexpress to find one that fits. But the ones I find are not the right size...
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Yes, it is stiff, but since the frame is fully integrated I don't see any other way of routing than 1 cable from front to back with outer housing. There are no stops anywhere in the frame to stop the cable...
After a couple of indoor rides I have a better feeling of the frame. I had to replace the carbon seat by my standard seat to decrease the setback of the saddle (the carbon does not go forward far enough) and now my seat is in the most forward position possible... I could have seen this coming because the TFSA frame had the same and this had a less slack seattube angle... I am aware this problem will not impact a lot of people because I seem to like a more forward position than most (kneecap right above the pedal axle is too far back for me, so I set it a few cm more foreward)...
I have asked Hygge if they have a 0mm setback seatpost, but since there is non on their webshop I expect the answer to be no...
Edit: I also asked the Ali store that sells the Winow frame (same frame). There is no seatpost without setback for now, but if I order 100 they will design one 8)
Edit #2: Hygge also said they don't have it and suggested I search Aliexpress to find one that fits. But the ones I find are not the right size...
If you can't find a 0 setback seat post, I'd look into the Lexon/Ryet 3d printed saddles. The rails are quite thick and I've been able to move my saddle a bit more forward, passed the max limit. Since we're similar size/weight, I think you'll be able to do the same. If using a standard carbon saddle, another trick I found was wrapping the rails in electrical tape. It'll prevent slippage, you won't have to tighten the clamp as much and it'll reenforce the rails. Doing so allows you to also push the saddle a bit more forward.
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I've already pushed my saddle as far forward as possible... Past the marks... All the carbon saddle i see seem to have a lot shorter rails in the back. My saddle is only 190gr,so not bad.
Today i noticed my Giant Power Pro powermeter also got damaged from the crash >:( the left side does not register power any more and I can't use the right side only it seems... So searching for a new powermeter now... :-\
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@tidy
Did you get a coupon for that?
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@tidy
Did you get a coupon for that?
Yeah, I saw it... ::)
They just took my pics and used them without asking... :-\
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Yeah, I saw it... ::)
They just took my pics and used them without asking... :-\
Complete rubbish practice right there...
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Yeah, I saw it... ::)
They just took my pics and used them without asking... :-\
Is this forum being stalked by the Chinese frames and parts manufacturers now? Not to mention all the AliEx bike YTers looking for ideas on their next videos? ;D
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Yeah, I saw it... ::)
They just took my pics and used them without asking... :-\
that's not ok, at all...
I'd try to contact them to clear that out, and for sure start some talk about coupon/discount, you being the 1st here to get the frame and sharing info, for sure will get many people interested (I included) and most probably get some sales for Hygge - that alone is worth something, not even considering the photo situation
but yeah, not a professional approach from them for sure. But having work with chinese companies for about 7yrs now (in home appliances), I'd say there are many amateur approaches from them that are in all innocent, which are not excuses of course, but helps understanding
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Yeah, having been a part-time photographer in a past life, I am kind of sensitive to this kind of practises... I contacted them on IG. We'll see if we can work something out...
I could use a new HT MTB frame since OG-Evkin stabbed me in the back. But the Hygge MTB frame seems to have a very slack head tube angle...
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the thing is that most Chinese frame/bike builders are not able to take aesthetic pictures of their products.
The angles of the finished bikes are always so bad... it looks like the handlebars are pointing like a pretzel towards the sky...
... yes - and yours look just fantastic ;-)
They could fly you in as a photographer and pay you handsomely (in whatever form) - you seem to like your work.
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Yeah, having been a part-time photographer in a past life, I am kind of sensitive to this kind of practises... I contacted them on IG. We'll see if we can work something out...
I could use a new HT MTB frame since OG-Evkin stabbed me in the back. But the Hygge MTB frame seems to have a very slack head tube angle...
Really interested in how they will respond... Keep us posted! :D
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They remove the post
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Yeah, I saw it... ::)
They just took my pics and used them without asking... :-\
Can you change your picture link to Winnie the Pooh riding their bike and tank their social credit score?
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Well, they responded fast and friendly, so I am going to leave it at that... :D
This weekend will be the first outdoor ride with the bike (1 month after the crash in which I broke my collar bone). I will keep you all updated.
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They remove the post
Still seeing it on FB.
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Still seeing it on FB.
Thank you for reporting it... I'll message them again.
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Thank you for reporting it... I'll message them again.
Dude, all they had to do was ask your permission and give you ample credit as a valued customer. They should now offer you a custom 0 setback seat post for the inconvenience!
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Dude, all they had to do was ask your permission and give you ample credit as a valued customer. They should now offer you a custom 0 setback seat post for the inconvenience!
I told them I would accept a MTB frame as compensation. More almost free publicity for them... But I guess not...
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Not to mention all the AliEx bike YTers looking for ideas on their next videos? ;D
;D Funny how the Youtube videos tend to trail just a bit behind the conversations on here.
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Edit: removed post because of Hygge stealing my pictures.
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Just bought the full black no logo and without handlebar. They discounted 60$ for that. Plus the 70€ code of the Back to school sales, I paid 468€.
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Just bought the full black no logo and without handlebar. They discounted 60$ for that. Plus the 70€ code of the Back to school sales, I paid 468€.
Nice, keep us updated! Did you really get a 70€ coupon? Where did you find that?
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Nice, keep us updated! Did you really get a 70€ coupon? Where did you find that?
Plenty of discounts and discount codes this week in AliExpress
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And another Hygge IG account has stolen my pictures... They have even made a reel from it this time...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AIL4fc8xkpxBTtWWMVbo8crnnnpQQoIp7nxuqhdMZkRHn_7ZkIh_BjN6ney93T00VIKi97pASBvx7KvDa3ex5EpXlv6V0FVLz3xMq7HSXLw_EqVHD9qFimnR=w1920-h1080)
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Plenty of discounts and discount codes this week in AliExpress
Maybe it would be a good idea to make a new thread with compilation of deals of the on going sale? Hygge frame only shows 20€ off coupon, but some items seem to have a nice discount (i.e. Elitewheels Edge wheelset is around 540€ shipped)
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And another Hygge IG account has stolen my pictures... They have even made a reel from it this time...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AIL4fc8xkpxBTtWWMVbo8crnnnpQQoIp7nxuqhdMZkRHn_7ZkIh_BjN6ney93T00VIKi97pASBvx7KvDa3ex5EpXlv6V0FVLz3xMq7HSXLw_EqVHD9qFimnR=w1920-h1080)
I think there are just stoked to see their bikes in the hands of the consumers and what to show it off :)
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Hey guys.
I’m getting mine tomorrow.
Finally arrived in the country.
Bought the frame, wheels and 105 Di2.
Custom paint aswell.
Will keep you updated on the build
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Will keep you updated on the build
Is there any news about your build? How is the frame's general build quality?
How are the technical details solved on these typically crucial parts:
Seatpost and saddle clamp? Headset cone and cable routing? Fork/steerer safety?
On Instagram you announced a Youtube review coming soon? I'm really looking forward to it!
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Yes, I am also interested in a good review. I actually own a vbr218 that I find a bit too sluggish.
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I actually own a vbr218 that I find a bit too sluggish.
What about the VB 218 did you find sluggish? You are not the only person to mention this. Last summer I said my VB 168 was sluggish, and the people here were not happy :-X
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During sprints, I find it flexes vertically a bit too much and does not transfer power as it should. Also during fast rides and descents, I can feel the frame absorbing a lot of the road profile instead of staying reactive (if that makes sense). I am 185lbs and 6ft+, so not the lightest and my sprints will go around 1000w. I might push the frame to its limit, not sure.
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I still need to rebuild that bike with the replacement frame that was sent under warranty. The seat post area I showing small cracks. Maybe it will feel different and I would keep it for superflat rides. It still a super comfy bike.
Thats why I am looking at this Hygge, if decently stiff
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@TidyDinosaur
Yo any new updates on how bike feels?
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Yeah...
@all
Do you think the Hygge is a good performance all-rounder like the giant tcr or the tarmac?
Or is the Hygge in first option for flat routes like the giant prople or the canyon aeroad?
Or which frame is a better performance allround race bike?
Speeder sc52, yishun 1058-D, or adapt at-b01? But they are all not available, cause my country, no stock, or no consumersale ☹️
For the yishun, i maybe see a chance.
Thank you for your reply :)
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I haven't done much km's on the bike but have done a 90km (flat) ride sunday.
The bike performs good and I don't really have complaints. I find the ride to be a little to harsh though. I think the frame and the handlebars are a lot stiffer than my previous TFSA frame (Wheels and tires are the same). I actually preferred the TFSA frame for the comfort. In a weird way I even like the look of the TFSA frame better (I have it on my indoor trainer now). The Hygge frame looks great, but I like the simple look of the TFSA (Tarmac SL6 clone).
I also still have heel strikes on the chainstays with this frame, even with the 5mm longer pedal axles, 1mm extra pedal spacer and I adjusted my cleats to have my heels further outward (not great for my knees I think).
I also regret getting a frame that has no 0-setback seatpost option... None of the carbon saddles have rails that are far enough to the back for them to fit for me.
So there is nothing wrong with the frame, but if I would have to choose again now, I think I would order the TFSA SL7 clone or the identical Delihea Tank Machine. Prices are about the same as the Hygge Model S and Delihea has some nice simple paint schemes.
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Do you have links for the delihea tank machine or the TFSA sl7 clone?
Are they still available at Aliexpress or do they have own websites?
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Do you have links for the delihea tank machine or the TFSA sl7 clone?
Are they still available at Aliexpress or do they have own websites?
You can just search for them on Aliexpress :)
Delihea: https://delihea.aliexpress.com/store/group/REST-II-TANK-Machine/3001063_10000001924870.html (https://delihea.aliexpress.com/store/group/REST-II-TANK-Machine/3001063_10000001924870.html)
TFSA: https://tfsa.aliexpress.com/store/group/JH-33-Disc-Full-Inner-cable/912068069_10000003201455.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.pcShopHead_6001028414123.1_2_6 (https://tfsa.aliexpress.com/store/group/JH-33-Disc-Full-Inner-cable/912068069_10000003201455.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.pcShopHead_6001028414123.1_2_6)
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You can just search for them on Aliexpress :)
Delihea: https://delihea.aliexpress.com/store/group/REST-II-TANK-Machine/3001063_10000001924870.html (https://delihea.aliexpress.com/store/group/REST-II-TANK-Machine/3001063_10000001924870.html)
TFSA: https://tfsa.aliexpress.com/store/group/JH-33-Disc-Full-Inner-cable/912068069_10000003201455.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.pcShopHead_6001028414123.1_2_6 (https://tfsa.aliexpress.com/store/group/JH-33-Disc-Full-Inner-cable/912068069_10000003201455.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.pcShopHead_6001028414123.1_2_6)
One thing to add is that I did have problems with the seatpost slipping on the TFSA (and I am not alone in this). I did manage to solve it with some cloth tape on the seatpost, thread locker on the bolt and a lot of carbon paste. The Hygge seatpost just stays fixed as is with 5Nm torque.
One plus for the TFSA frame is that you can buy a replacement seatpost for the frame from multiple vendors and you can ask them for a 0-setback seatpost with less setback when you order the frame. TFSA did it for free. Delihea wanted 10USD extra I believe.
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I have never heard of delihea....
Is there any experience here? Specifically also because of this frame?
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I have never heard of delihea....
Is there any experience here? Specifically also because of this frame?
It is exactly the same frame as the TFSA frame I linked. They only give it a different coat of paint if I am correct.
You can find some reviews of the Delihea frames on youtube. Just use DuckDuckgo it.
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I haven't done much km's on the bike but have done a 90km (flat) ride sunday.
The bike performs good and I don't really have complaints. I find the ride to be a little to harsh though. I think the frame and the handlebars are a lot stiffer than my previous TFSA frame (Wheels and tires are the same). I actually preferred the TFSA frame for the comfort. In a weird way I even like the look of the TFSA frame better (I have it on my indoor trainer now). The Hygge frame looks great, but I like the simple look of the TFSA (Tarmac SL6 clone).
I also still have heel strikes on the chainstays with this frame, even with the 5mm longer pedal axles, 1mm extra pedal spacer and I adjusted my cleats to have my heels further outward (not great for my knees I think).
I also regret getting a frame that has no 0-setback seatpost option... None of the carbon saddles have rails that are far enough to the back for them to fit for me.
So there is nothing wrong with the frame, but if I would have to choose again now, I think I would order the TFSA SL7 clone or the identical Delihea Tank Machine. Prices are about the same as the Hygge Model S and Delihea has some nice simple paint schemes.
Repente Magnet and all SMP saddles have 80mm long rails, Ergon and the other models of Repente/Leonardi are 70mm and Selle Italia some models like Flite Boost are 75mm long
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So today I've done my 3rd ride with the frame. 120km group (6 people) ride.
- I'm now sure the frame is much stiffer than the TFSA frame I had. With my 28mm tires with 55 / 60 PSI, I feel every little bump in the road. So if you are looking for comfort... this is not the frame to get...
- For the moment there IS a problem with the seatpost slipping... Between the beginning of the ride and the end the seatpost went down about 1,5cm... And of course this scratched the seatpost...
Now I have upped the torque to 6Nm, cleaned the post and again added a lot of carbon paste AND put some mild threadlocker on the bolt. We'll see if this helps...
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Has anyone been able to find the following details below directly from Hygge?
-Location/Mailing/Shipping Address
-Factory Location
-Return Policy
-Warranty Information
Not even their "official" website has any company information or "About Us" page. Every single Chinese brand I've tested from VeloBuild, Dengfu, TanTan, Rinasclta, and Yinshun all the way up to Yoeleo/Winspace has this information easily available.
For myself who is constantly swapping frames this probably would not be a deal breaker. Especially for a $500 frame. However, for the general public I would be cautious. The first red flag was Hygge stealing TinyDinosaur's photos. I'm not questioning the legitimacy of their business but the details outline above is standard business practice. I would inquire about this if I were buying a frame.
Even popular AliExpress Chinese bike seller OG-Evkin has this information available on their official website.
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Has anyone been able to find the following details below directly from Hygge?
-Location/Mailing/Shipping Address
-Factory Location
-Return Policy
-Warranty Information
Not even their "official" website has any company information or "About Us" page. Every single Chinese brand I've tested from VeloBuild, Dengfu, TanTan, Rinasclta, and Yinshun all the way up to Yoeleo/Winspace has this information easily available.
For myself who is constantly swapping frames this probably would not be a deal breaker. Especially for a $500 frame. However, for the general public I would be cautious. The first red flag was Hygge stealing TinyDinosaur's photos. I'm not questioning the legitimacy of their business but the details outline above is standard business practice. I would inquire about this if I were buying a frame.
Even popular AliExpress Chinese bike seller OG-Evkin has this information available on their official website.
According to their facebook page, their mail adress is "sales@aisurfproducts.com". I did a quick googling session and I found their CEOs LinkedIn (https://cn.linkedin.com/in/aaron-luo), but could not find and more info on their mother company "A&I Enterprise Limited". Their main business seems to be surfboards, as their (dead) website was called "www.aisurfproducts.com".
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Has anyone been able to find the following details below directly from Hygge?
-Location/Mailing/Shipping Address
-Factory Location
-Return Policy
-Warranty Information
Not even their "official" website has any company information or "About Us" page. Every single Chinese brand I've tested from VeloBuild, Dengfu, TanTan, Rinasclta, and Yinshun all the way up to Yoeleo/Winspace has this information easily available.
For myself who is constantly swapping frames this probably would not be a deal breaker. Especially for a $500 frame. However, for the general public I would be cautious. The first red flag was Hygge stealing TinyDinosaur's photos. I'm not questioning the legitimacy of their business but the details outline above is standard business practice. I would inquire about this if I were buying a frame.
Even popular AliExpress Chinese bike seller OG-Evkin has this information available on their official website.
(Rant on) Yeah, and I learned the hard way that OG-Evkin warranty is worth nothing. Even worse: they will lie and play you for 6 weeks before ghosting you... (/rant off)
I am thinking maybe Winow sports is the producer or at least closer to the producer of the frame. When I informed about a 0-setback seatpost Hygge just said they do not have them. The seller of the Winow Sports frame asked me if I was a reseller and they could supply it when I would order 100 of them...
Here is the frame on the Alibaba site of Winow: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/New-Product-FM236-Red-glossy-Hidden_1600862434667.html?spm=a2700.shop_plser.41413.2.62532281QMojoA (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/New-Product-FM236-Red-glossy-Hidden_1600862434667.html?spm=a2700.shop_plser.41413.2.62532281QMojoA)
But hey, it is clear Hygge is reading this topic, so they should make an account and reply to us :)
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You can find the Business Licence of the Hygge Ali store here: https://shoprenderview.aliexpress.com/credential/showcredential.htm?storeNum=2309008&spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.pcShopHead_9151269.0 (https://shoprenderview.aliexpress.com/credential/showcredential.htm?storeNum=2309008&spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.pcShopHead_9151269.0)
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I've ordered one of these framesets to build up with LTwoo electronic 12 speed as my second road disc brake bike. Currently says has been shipped. Once received I'll post about how it looks and critical areas such as steerer, bottom bracket and derailleur hanger.
I didn't think much about warranty as not sure on how much anything from Ali express would be honoured.
I'll be able to compare this against my current model Orbea Orca aero di2, and my older BH G6 and Orbea Orca both rim brake.
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Looking at a similar design frame myself, how does the quite slack headtube angle make it feel? This is my only reservation about the geometry of this bike, so it'd be nice to hear what you have to say about it given you have first hand experience.
Well , I have only done about 300km with it until now so I don't have much experience with it. The steering is different than the TFSA frame, feels a little less direct and responsive BUT:
- It only has a 38cm handlebar vs the 40cm I had before... And I have the hoods angled inward.
- I have only recently started riding outdoor since I crashed and broke my collarbone 6 weeks ago, so I am more cautious.
So take my experience with a grain of salt...
The slack headtube does not feel like much of problem. But had I known before I ordered (I did not pay attention to this) I probably would have gotten another frame. But it seems the top frames of Colnago also have similar headtube angles, so I guess it is not that big of a deal...
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I've ordered one of these framesets to build up with LTwoo electronic 12 speed as my second road disc brake bike. Currently says has been shipped. Once received I'll post about how it looks and critical areas such as steerer, bottom bracket and derailleur hanger.
I didn't think much about warranty as not sure on how much anything from Ali express would be honoured.
I'll be able to compare this against my current model Orbea Orca aero di2, and my older BH G6 and Orbea Orca both rim brake.
When did you buy it? I'm still waiting since 21st august and is full black, so painting should be the reason...
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Great thread, and great reading about the experiences done with the brand. Being a dane I was quite intrigued of the brand, and I'm quite close to pulling the trigger.
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Great thread, and great reading about the experiences done with the brand. Being a dane I was quite intrigued of the brand, and I'm quite close to pulling the trigger.
Welcome :)
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When did you buy it? I'm still waiting since 21st august and is full black, so painting should be the reason...
Ordered on 27 August, according to Ali express not due to be delivered until October 7. Will see how we go.
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I just found a new Ali store selling Hygge frames: "Hygge Flagship Store"
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That's the one I ordered mine from. I spoke to them about it and they said they are the same company.
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That's the one I ordered mine from. I spoke to them about it and they said they are the same company.
Yeah, that happens a lot it seems... I wonder why...
When the OG-Evkin store had been lying and deceiving (to) me about the warranty frame I emailed the official website for help as they had a completely different email-adress. But since they never got back to me (and I think they blocked me) I presume it is just the same store...
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All in all which one do you prefer, the TFSA or Hygge? The TFSA I had bookmarked is now $850. I hope they "correct" the price.
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All in all which one do you prefer, the TFSA or Hygge? The TFSA I had bookmarked is now $850. I hope they "correct" the price.
If I would have too choose now, knowing what I know now, I would probably go for the Delihea Tank Machine (=TFSA SL7 clone frame).
Because of the following reasons:
- The image I had of Hygge has taken somewhat of a hit since ordering:
- They stole my pictures and put them on their IG page along with a couple of other Hygge related IG accounts. The main accounts removed them, but other account were rude, blocked me and are probably still using my pictures.
- Opening multiple Aliexpress stores does not exactly scream "trustworthy" to me...
- They profile them as the producer of the frame. I doubt this now...
- The research of some fellow forum members has shown that behind the professional facade is some amateurish background
- The frame is not really ideal for me because of the following:
- The slack headtube
- The chainstays are a little wide for me
- It's a harsh ride
- Suggested sizes of Hygge are extremely different from those of Winow Sports for the same frame. This leaves me wondering if I should have gone with a smaller size
- No 0-setback seatpost
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Hygee, along with Tiny Dinosaur's experience, is a great example of why this forum is important.
Phase #1 - The forum organically generates excitement for a particular brand/frame/wheel.
Phase #2 - The company realizes there is hype around their products so they start increasing marketing.
Phase #3 - Customers start receiving their orders and offering feedback.
Phase #4 - This is usually the point that can make or break customer excitement and future orders.
Don't ever feel afraid to share your bad or even horror stories. The only way to hold companies accountable is by pubic feedback. But ONLY after you've made an attempt to resolve it privately with the company.
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- The image I had of Hygge has taken somewhat of a hit since ordering:
- They stole my pictures and put them on their IG page along with a couple of other Hygge related IG accounts. The main accounts removed them, but other account were rude, blocked me and are probably still using my pictures.
I must admit that the way they treated you after stealing your pictures is enough reason for me to not consider them in the future.
There a a lot of other nice frames out there. And if one would like to buy this exact frame, it probably would be better to buy directly from Winow.
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I must admit that the way they treated you after stealing your pictures is enough reason for me to not consider them in the future.
There a a lot of other nice frames out there. And if one would like to buy this exact frame, it probably would be better to buy directly from Winow.
Thanks man :)
But, to be honest, it is a nice frame and has a nice finish. So if it fits you, it might be a good choice. :)
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- Suggested sizes of Hygge are extremely different from those of Winow Sports for the same frame. This leaves me wondering if I should have gone with a smaller size
Regarding suggested sizes - I think Winow recommendations are off. I have FM368 frame on the way in size M and Winow recommends that frame for 180-188cm tall riders. Funny thing is that the frame is more or less same geometry as Tarmac SL7 and Spesh is recommends size 56 (aka L) for 178cm rider (their recommendations are known to be larger size than usual). So for the frame of same geometry one manufacturer offers size L while the other recommends size S
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Regarding suggested sizes - I think Winow recommendations are off. I have FM368 frame on the way in size M and Winow recommends that frame for 180-188cm tall riders. Funny thing is that the frame is more or less same geometry as Tarmac SL7 and Spesh is recommends size 56 (aka L) for 178cm rider (their recommendations are known to be larger size than usual).
You're probably right. I always think my frames are too big for me, even though I have been carefully checking geometry and recommendations.
When ordering the SL6 clone I also checked the Specialized recommended size, and it is indeed 1 size more than I bought in the end. I got the 52 for my 172cm and the Specialized website recommended at least the 54. That would have been way too big for me...
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First of all, thank you for all the exchanges that I have read on this forum since months. I have learned a lot and it made me take the step of building my own bike.
For information, the first bike I built was the Ican A22. This allowed me to get my hands on this construction. I will always remember the hours spent routing cables ;D.
I wanted to change the frame and I read the first exchanges of this post. So, I set my sights on the Hygge Model S. I'll post updates on my build (Shimano 105 Di2) progress through to completion and give my thoughts on this bike after riding it.
The first messages of this post were really positive but the last messages have nuanced all your enthusiasm. I hope to receive my frame (and the wheels ordered from Hygge as well) within two weeks.
The only thing I can say now is that the seller is very responsive and has always answered my questions, which inspires seriousness despite the doubts expressed in other messages and compared to Winow. I will be sure to keep you informed when I will receive the frame and wheels.
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First of all, thank you for all the exchanges that I have read on this forum since months. I have learned a lot and it made me take the step of building my own bike.
For information, the first bike I built was the Ican A22. This allowed me to get my hands on this construction. I will always remember the hours spent routing cables ;D.
I wanted to change the frame and I read the first exchanges of this post. So, I set my sights on the Hygge Model S. I'll post updates on my build (Shimano 105 Di2) progress through to completion and give my thoughts on this bike after riding it.
The first messages of this post were really positive but the last messages have nuanced all your enthusiasm. I hope to receive my frame (and the wheels ordered from Hygge as well) within two weeks.
The only thing I can say now is that the seller is very responsive and has always answered my questions, which inspires seriousness despite the doubts expressed in other messages and compared to Winow. I will be sure to keep you informed when I will receive the frame and wheels.
Just watermark your photos of your bike build before posting them online so they don't get used without your permission! ;D
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It's interesting about them using photos without permission. I would more than happily allow them to use any photos I may post as long as they ask. If it is a good product I'd also happily recommend to others given some items are pretty hit and miss (particularly I have found with cycling clothing).
Can anyone recommend any cheap wheels? I would go with the Hygge wheels but am just not sure on the quality for that price point?
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It's interesting about them using photos without permission. I would more than happily allow them to use any photos I may post as long as they ask. If it is a good product I'd also happily recommend to others given some items are pretty hit and miss (particularly I have found with cycling clothing).
Can anyone recommend any cheap wheels? I would go with the Hygge wheels but am just not sure on the quality for that price point?
If you wait for the next AliEx sale, these wheels were discounted:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804581390724.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804581390724.html)
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They were the ones I was looking at but missed them on sale price last week. I don't really want to pay that price plus Aussie tax though.
On other news I received my frameset today so a month earlier than originally scheduled via Ali express and 11 days after ordering to Australia. Box was quite damaged but after unboxing and inspection all seems okay. So that's shipping companies roughness and not on Hygge as the frame was well wrapped and protected.
Ok initial inspection:
- both brake mounts seem to have been faced
- there is some play, very minimal, in both upper and lower headset bearings, however this should pull tight once plug is installed (I hope)
- finish looks good, one minor blemish on inside of chainstay on drive side where there looks to be a small area filled but other than that it's black on black carbon so has the raw carbon look
- steerer tube looks to be solid, no evidence of any fill used anywhere
- haven't tried bottom bracket yet.
I'll be a few weeks still before building up as I'm in a sling for another 4 weeks following shoulder surgery but will provide updates.
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It's interesting about them using photos without permission. I would more than happily allow them to use any photos I may post as long as they ask. If it is a good product I'd also happily recommend to others given some items are pretty hit and miss (particularly I have found with cycling clothing).
Can anyone recommend any cheap wheels? I would go with the Hygge wheels but am just not sure on the quality for that price point?
Same for me. If the frame is good, I will be proud if they use my photos.
If you can wait few weeks, I will make a review of their wheels too.
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They were the ones I was looking at but missed them on sale price last week. I don't really want to pay that price plus Aussie tax though.
On other news I received my frameset today so a month earlier than originally scheduled via Ali express and 11 days after ordering to Australia. Box was quite damaged but after unboxing and inspection all seems okay. So that's shipping companies roughness and not on Hygge as the frame was well wrapped and protected.
Ok initial inspection:
- both brake mounts seem to have been faced
- there is some play, very minimal, in both upper and lower headset bearings, however this should pull tight once plug is installed (I hope)
- finish looks good, one minor blemish on inside of chainstay on drive side where there looks to be a small area filled but other than that it's black on black carbon so has the raw carbon look
- steerer tube looks to be solid, no evidence of any fill used anywhere
- haven't tried bottom bracket yet.
I'll be a few weeks still before building up as I'm in a sling for another 4 weeks following shoulder surgery but will provide updates.
Do you have some pictures to share please ?
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A few I have taken of brake mount area and frame.
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Can anyone recommend any cheap wheels? I would go with the Hygge wheels but am just not sure on the quality for that price point?
I'd go with Elite or Superteam, seems to be the cheapest ones on Aliexpress at least. I have some Superteams going strong for 2 wheels, minor problems with weather sealing but all good with periodic maintenance
Aliexpress just finished a sale, end of august, so it's common that the prices rise a little... maybe in 2-3 weeks (tops) the prices drop a bit, you can message the sellers and ask if there are sales coming or any coupons available, there are some that are willing to negotiate some deals
be aware that in 2 months it's 11.11 which is the biggest sale, so it's also common that the stores hold discounts a bit on the previous months.. if you're able to wait until then, it's almost certain you'll get a better deal
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For those who already have the frame, could you recommend a Di2 battery holder for the specialized shape of the seat post ? Or does anyone have the exact dimensions of the seat post please ?
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Hello! My first post here.
I wanted to leave a review of the Hygge Model S frame and the 2023 Carbon wheels but before I do that I want to frame my experiance with riding and building bikes. I only got into cycling in may this year, I bought an alloy gravel bike but discovered I love road riding pretty quickly and decided I needed a carbon road bike ;D As I am so new to the sport I didn't want to go and spend loads of money on something I potentially would get bored with (not going to happen) and as an engineer I love building things so I decided to buy a load of stuff off of Aliexpress and get to work. I settled on the Hygee Model S for no reason other than I liked the look of it. I couldn't find any details/reviews so after a while I decided to take the plunge and buy it.
It took about 4/5 weeks to get to the UK, arrived well packaged and everything present. I haven't built a bike before but the process was pretty easy, I think the integrated bars are nicely done, honestly didn't take me very long at all (I guess electronic shifting makes it easier. I did notice that one of the bottle cage captive nuts was drilled not centrally (image included) I took this back to Hygge and they didn't have much to say other than acknowledging its wonky and it wouldn't be an issue and to be fair it isn't. I had forgotten about it until just now. Originally I set this up with an L-TWOO ERX groupset but that has turned out to be total trash (1 mile ridden on that POS groupset but that's another story) and I've had a nightmare getting any support on it. Eventually, in desperation to ride this thing I bought a Di2 105 12spd groupset and its been great. I really should have done that from the start.
Anyways I am now 120km into this bike and so far so good. I'm 108KG so at the upper end of the weight limit but no problems yet, the carbon wheels are great (I had to scrape off some of the lettering as I thought it was hideous) and the whole thing is seriously light, unfortunately I have no scales though. One issue I do have is the chain stays are super wide, fortunately I use 20mm pedal extensions but it would be tight without them. One thing the pictures never show is the frame has this gorgeous speckled flip paint that switches between purple and green and I've already had a lot of comments about it
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Hello! My first post here.
I wanted to leave a review of the Hygge Model S frame and the 2023 Carbon wheels but before I do that I want to frame my experiance with riding and building bikes. I only got into cycling in may this year, I bought an alloy gravel bike but discovered I love road riding pretty quickly and decided I needed a carbon road bike ;D As I am so new to the sport I didn't want to go and spend loads of money on something I potentially would get bored with (not going to happen) and as an engineer I love building things so I decided to buy a load of stuff off of Aliexpress and get to work. I settled on the Hygee Model S for no reason other than I liked the look of it. I couldn't find any details/reviews so after a while I decided to take the plunge and buy it.
It took about 4/5 weeks to get to the UK, arrived well packaged and everything present. I haven't built a bike before but the process was pretty easy, I think the integrated bars are nicely done, honestly didn't take me very long at all (I guess electronic shifting makes it easier. I did notice that one of the bottle cage captive nuts was drilled not centrally (image included) I took this back to Hygge and they didn't have much to say other than acknowledging its wonky and it wouldn't be an issue and to be fair it isn't. I had forgotten about it until just now. Originally I set this up with an L-TWOO ERX groupset but that has turned out to be total trash (1 mile ridden on that POS groupset but that's another story) and I've had a nightmare getting any support on it. Eventually, in desperation to ride this thing I bought a Di2 105 12spd groupset and its been great. I really should have done that from the start.
Anyways I am now 120km into this bike and so far so good. I'm 108KG so at the upper end of the weight limit but no problems yet, the carbon wheels are great (I had to scrape off some of the lettering as I thought it was hideous) and the whole thing is seriously light, unfortunately I have no scales though. One issue I do have is the chain stays are super wide, fortunately I use 20mm pedal extensions but it would be tight without them. One thing the pictures never show is the frame has this gorgeous speckled flip paint that switches between purple and green and I've already had a lot of comments about it
Are tires 28" or 26 ? Can you tell me which Di2 battery holder do you use in the seat post ?
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Are tires 28" or 26 ? Can you tell me which Di2 battery holder do you use in the seat post ?
Hi there
The tyres are 30mm (IIRC) Pirelli P zero race. Di2 battery holder is a piece of the foam the frame came wrapped in wrapped around the battery secured with some tape and then stuffed in the seat post
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Hi there
The tyres are 30mm (IIRC) Pirelli P zero race. Di2 battery holder is a piece of the foam wrapped around the battery secured with some tape and then stuffed in the seat post
Thank you. Do you have an issue with a slipping seat post like someone else ? Did you install a seat post clamp cover ? The color is nice. Great build.
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Ah indeed I have had seatpost issues, I wanted to put that in the original post but forgot!
So yeah, I had the seatpost disappear into the frame twice very early on. How I fixed it is I sanded all sides of the clamp and applied grip paste but I think the thing that got this sorted was I applied loctite to the clamping bolt and then tightened it to 10Nm. I’ve had over 100 trouble free Km since then. I think the issue is the bolt just loosens up, with the loctite I haven’t seen the problem again. I fed this back to Hygge and they actually have a new clamp design (picture attached), I'm not convinced that it will fix the issue as the new clamp adds a new grip to the side that grips the seat post, I’m sure it will help some but I think the loctite is the one. I have told them I recommend having a captive nyloc nut on the underside, this would alleviate the issue.
And yeah, it’s a lovely bike - I’m really happy with it so far and looking forward to spending more time with it.
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Originally I set this up with an L-TWOO ERX groupset but that has turned out to be total trash (1 mile ridden on that POS groupset but that's another story) and I've had a nightmare getting any support on it. Eventually, in desperation to ride this thing I bought a Di2 105 12spd groupset and its been great. I really should have done that from the start.
That colors looks nice! Hope you have a good time riding it. I would like to hear what exactly happened with the L-T groupset. I have made up my mind to stay away from these groupsets (even fully mechanical ones) considering you can get Shimano stuff at prices not very far from L-T's.
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Is the maximum torque written on all screws (seat post, stem, etc.) ?
I will put some blue thread lock on the bolt and carbon paste on the seat post to see if I will have the same problem.
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Is the maximum torque written on all screws (seat post, stem, etc.) ?
I will put some blue thread lock on the bolt and carbon paste on the seat post to see if I will have the same problem.
I asked the seller for the torque for the seatpost since it keeps slipping, even with my 64kg. Torque spec is 5-6Nm according to them. Since I did already torque to 6Nm and added thread locker this does not seem to be enough...
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Is the maximum torque written on all screws (seat post, stem, etc.) ?
I will put some blue thread lock on the bolt and carbon paste on the seat post to see if I will have the same problem.
It is not written anywhere but like TidyDinosaur I asked them and they said 7Nm should be plenty, it was not. I suggest trying 10 like me which is working. Maybe also ask them for their new clamp?
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I asked the seller for the torque for the seatpost since it keeps slipping, even with my 64kg. Torque spec is 5-6Nm according to them. Since I did already torque to 6Nm and added thread locker this does not seem to be enough...
Is the Hygge seat post clamp similar to the TFSA setup? I haven't had any seat post slippage since using the front/back tape seatpost method and using a titanium screw. Also I put a wrap of electrical tape at the seat post base to keep it from sliding down. No Loctite or over torquing necessary.
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Is the Hygge seat post clamp similar to the TFSA setup? I haven't had any seat post slippage since using the front/back tape seatpost method and using a titanium screw. Also I put a wrap of electrical tape at the seat post base to keep it from sliding down. No Loctite or over torquing necessary.
It's indeed the same priciple. With the tfsa I was able to solve it with thread locker and cloth tape to the back of the seatpost and a lot of carbon paste.
Since using the thread locker on the Hygge frame the seatpost has only dropped a few mm. I am going to keep an eye on it and if it slips more I am going to try the cloth tape truck although the fit of the seatpost seems more snug so I don't know there is space between seatpost and frame for the tape.
If it comes to this I will keep you updated.
It's a shame most frames now come with these special seatposts and clamp. But looking at all the taped up seatposts of the expensive bikes I see on group rides it is not a cheap frame problem.
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Did any of you have issues fitting the front brake mount to the fork (the small plate the brake then mounts to for 160mm calipers). Mine will hit the fork when screwing down before it screws tight so it looks like I am going to grind away and round off the top part of the brake mount?
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This is what I mean.
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Do you have full picture of the adapter itself? Assuming you are going with 160mm rotors (and flat mount calipers), that doesn't look like Shimano's or any other common flat adapter, may be try with a different adapter before you dremel some part of it?
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It's LTwoo hydraulic 160mm adaptor.
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It's LTwoo hydraulic 160mm adaptor.
Yeah, the adapter seems to be the problem then... No problem with the standard adapters...
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Did you use Ultegra 160mm for the front Tidy?
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Should I see if Hygge will send me out a frameset, or nah? ;D
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Did you use Ultegra 160mm for the front Tidy?
Yes
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Should I see if Hygge will send me out a frameset, or nah? ;D
I would be more interested in seeing a review of a Light carbon frame you as we expect the frame to be of similar quality as Yishun.
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Should I see if Hygge will send me out a frameset, or nah? ;D
I'd like to see your view compared to your other bikes
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you as we expect the frame to be of similar quality as Yishun.
This is the main reason why I would choose Hygge over LightCarbon if I were to give in and review another cheap frame. I have confidence in believing LC's quality is identical to Yishun.
What makes companies like VeloBuild, Rinasclta, and ICAN attractive to new customers in the cheap Chinese world, is their ability provide a somewhat brand-like shopping experience while offering custom paint with logos. My VeloBuild videos are among my most watched videos for this reason.
Marketing ethics aside, I really like what Hygge is doing as a brand. Excellent paint/decal options and it appears to be decent quality. The price point is good too.
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This is the main reason why I would choose Hygge over LightCarbon if I were to give in and review another cheap frame. I have confidence in believing LC's quality is identical to Yishun.
What makes companies like VeloBuild, Rinasclta, and ICAN attractive to new customers in the cheap Chinese world, is their ability provide a somewhat brand-like shopping experience while offering custom paint with logos. My VeloBuild videos are among my most watched videos for this reason.
Marketing ethics aside, I really like what Hygge is doing as a brand. Excellent paint/decal options and it appears to be decent quality. The price point is good too.
If I understand correctly, Hygge offers excellent paint and decals. But Lightcarbon as well. Check the Gravel bike from Hambini or this LCR0X-D in frozen blue with their logo in silver.
Here are all the colors Lightcarbon offers: https://www.lightcarbon.com/decal-painting_n43
and you can combine multiple colors as well.
I think you would even be happier knowing you can customize the paint on your rims with ProX Carbon [their wheels branch].
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Ah indeed I have had seatpost issues, I wanted to put that in the original post but forgot!
So yeah, I had the seatpost disappear into the frame twice very early on. How I fixed it is I sanded all sides of the clamp and applied grip paste but I think the thing that got this sorted was I applied loctite to the clamping bolt and then tightened it to 10Nm. I’ve had over 100 trouble free Km since then. I think the issue is the bolt just loosens up, with the loctite I haven’t seen the problem again. I fed this back to Hygge and they actually have a new clamp design (picture attached), I'm not convinced that it will fix the issue as the new clamp adds a new grip to the side that grips the seat post, I’m sure it will help some but I think the loctite is the one. I have told them I recommend having a captive nyloc nut on the underside, this would alleviate the issue.
And yeah, it’s a lovely bike - I’m really happy with it so far and looking forward to spending more time with it.
Have you had any further issues with the seat post? I saw you said you went to 10nn, however someone in a comment on the Henry Chung YouTube review commented they did theirs to 6.5nm and it cracked the frame. He hasn't said how it ended up with Hygge in terms of any replacement.
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Have you had any further issues with the seat post? I saw you said you went to 10nn, however someone in a comment on the Henry Chung YouTube review commented they did theirs to 6.5nm and it cracked the frame. He hasn't said how it ended up with Hygge in terms of any replacement.
Wow, that's scary... I had to do mine @ 6nM to get it to stop sagging... 5nM was not enough.
I'm only 64kg so I guess there is less risk of cracking...
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Have you had any further issues with the seat post? I saw you said you went to 10nn, however someone in a comment on the Henry Chung YouTube review commented they did theirs to 6.5nm and it cracked the frame. He hasn't said how it ended up with Hygge in terms of any replacement.
I just looked at the review on YT and there is no comment like what you said... Could it already be removed?
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I just looked at the review on YT and there is no comment like what you said... Could it already be removed?
It was commented under this post:
https://www.youtube.com/post/Ugkxr7VrOqzmj1AUAf-x3SFbZXlMgZYMVGU_
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It was commented under this post:
https://www.youtube.com/post/Ugkxr7VrOqzmj1AUAf-x3SFbZXlMgZYMVGU_
OK, thanks. He has a lot of video's about the Hygge frame already :) Did not see that one.
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Could anyone measure the chainstay height at the flat mount mounting point?
I would like to make sure that I get the right screw length for the rear caliper.
Thanks a lot!
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Could anyone measure the chainstay height at the flat mount mounting point?
I would like to make sure that I get the right screw length for the rear caliper.
Thanks a lot!
20mm if I measured correctly. The standard Ultegra caliper bolt with the special tip for the circlips was too long. I used a shorter bolt I had lying around without the circlips
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Thank you! Okay, my default Shimano screws are for 25mm I think, so that matches your observation.
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Thank you! Okay, my default Shimano screws are for 25mm I think, so that matches your observation.
Correct. it is 20mm.
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I just received the frame. I will update regularly and debrief when it is assembled.
The package is well packaged and the setting and equipment are great.
For now, everything is perfect. I also ordered the wheels which were in the same package as the frame.
I am attaching some photos and the weight of the equipment in size M.
Communication with Hygge is perfect. They are very responsive and attentive.
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I just received the frame. I will update regularly and debrief when it is assembled.
The package is well packaged and the setting and equipment are great.
For now, everything is perfect. I also ordered the wheels which were in the same package as the frame.
I am attaching some photos and the weight of the equipment in size M.
Communication with Hygge is perfect. They are very responsive and attentive.
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I'm really looking forward to other peoples experiences... I find the bike to be fairly instable especially at speeds above 35km/h... To the point of getting scary when descending...
Wondering if it maybe is the 380mm handlebar with the short 80mm stem...
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Doesn't sound good.
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Damn this bike sounds like absolute garbo
Nah, could be user error... That's why I'm looking forward to other reviews...
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Based on my experience it will be the 380 bar. I put a 380 wide bar on my BH G6 and found the same thing. Really twitchy and unstable when on the hoods, particularly descending. But when in drops was a lot more stable, and narrower so had the aero benefits for that.
I got a 380 for my Hygge build but haven't yet built it up as I'm stuck in a sling from shoulder surgery for another 2 weeks yet. Good thing about hygge bars is it's is 380 at the top and 400 in the drops.
Do you feel more aero with a narrower profile? Noticed any speed difference on solo rides?
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Based on my experience it will be the 380 bar. I put a 380 wide bar on my BH G6 and found the same thing. Really twitchy and unstable when on the hoods, particularly descending. But when in drops was a lot more stable, and narrower so had the aero benefits for that.
I got a 380 for my Hygge build but haven't yet built it up as I'm stuck in a sling from shoulder surgery for another 2 weeks yet. Good thing about hygge bars is it's is 380 at the top and 400 in the drops.
Do you feel more aero with a narrower profile? Noticed any speed difference on solo rides?
Thanks for the feedback. I also have the shifters tilted inward quite a bit, so it could indeed be a combination of factors. I have adjusted te shifters now to be more straight. Let's see if that helps.
I rarely put my hands in the drops as I am not really comfortable with that. I just can't seem to reach the brake levers (i did already adjust them to be closer to the handlebars) good enough to give me confidence in braking when in the drops. Maybe I'll have to practice more.
I like the aero position and I do feel I am faster with it. But the previous bike ( I only rode it a month) had 40cm handlebars so not a big change and before that I rode my gravel bike on the road so no comparing there ;D
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Based on my experience it will be the 380 bar. I put a 380 wide bar on my BH G6 and found the same thing. Really twitchy and unstable when on the hoods, particularly descending. But when in drops was a lot more stable, and narrower so had the aero benefits for that.
I got a 380 for my Hygge build but haven't yet built it up as I'm stuck in a sling from shoulder surgery for another 2 weeks yet. Good thing about hygge bars is it's is 380 at the top and 400 in the drops.
Do you feel more aero with a narrower profile? Noticed any speed difference on solo rides?
I ride a 360 bar and feel perfectly fine on 60kmh descents, though. Doubt it's the bars.
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I'm really looking forward to other peoples experiences... I find the bike to be fairly instable especially at speeds above 35km/h... To the point of getting scary when descending...
Wondering if it maybe is the 380mm handlebar with the short 80mm stem...
I'd say it's more the super short 80mm stem rather than the handlebars themselves.
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I'd say it's more the super short 80mm stem rather than the handlebars themselves.
On the TFSA frame I also had a 80mm stem without the instability. The handlebars were 40cm wide though...
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For me I changed to 380 bars from 400 and noticed it was a lot more unstable when I made that change. Just my experience, may not be the same for others
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For me I changed to 380 bars from 400 and noticed it was a lot more unstable when I made that change. Just my experience, may not be the same for others
Interesting to know. You kept the same stem length?
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Real tyre clearance is 30 or 32?
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Real tyre clearance is 30 or 32?
30 front and 32 back i would say.
My 28mm tires measure 30 and I would not go bigger in the front.
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Interesting to know. You kept the same stem length?
Yes went to 110mm a few years ago. Didn't notice any difference when I went from 100 to 110mm.
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Did you see the last price increase at Hygge >:(
are they crazy?
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Did you see the last price increase at Hygge >:(
are they crazy?
Wow, that's a 30% increase. Not so great value anymore...
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Sometimes they are increasing the price and getting ready for a "sale". I also saw the Magene Ultra Wheelset's price at $2000 but then it came back to $1200 or something.
I always deal with that kind of practice because we have a local Aliexpress on our country which is called Lazada (which is a subsidiary of Alibaba)
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Sometimes they are increasing the price and getting ready for a "sale". I also saw the Magene Ultra Wheelset's price at $2000 but then it came back to $1200 or something.
probably, common practice all over Aliexpress. If you keep track, most items are always on some kind of discount, to give the impression that it's a special price and you either buy fast or the price will increase. Even though the higher price is on for like 10 days a year, and the usual price is at -30% tag.
So once in a while (normally right before some website sale) the price increases, for 1 or 2 days, and then comes right back.
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probably, common practice all over Aliexpress. If you keep track, most items are always on some kind of discount, to give the impression that it's a special price and you either buy fast or the price will increase. Even though the higher price is on for like 10 days a year, and the usual price is at -30% tag.
So once in a while (normally right before some website sale) the price increases, for 1 or 2 days, and then comes right back.
Well, it looks like they increased the prices of all their frames to rather absurd levels, so I guess it will indeed be the full price/discount game they are playing...
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Well, it looks like they increased the prices of all their frames to rather absurd levels, so I guess it will indeed be the full price/discount game they are playing...
It's the same for their wheels. They were about $630 Australian and are now over $1,000. Then shipping and local tax on top makes them really expensive.
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I see the Winowsports frames (same frames, different paint) also have had this price increase...
And the TFSA SL7 clone has also gotten really expensive...
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1st of october is China's National day, holidays lasts this whole week. Many sellers raise the prices to not bother them buying their products ;D
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That's right. They're back with regular prices already. In the meantime my frame came today. I'm posting some pictures from the factory as I didn't make any by my own yet.
https://pasteboard.co/6ETww8umisyI.jpg
https://pasteboard.co/CpPn8rxKxqmU.jpg
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This is a custom pain job right? Did you have to pay extra?
Additional feedback on ride quality from the fully built bikes? I am interested in someone with also experience with higher priced Chinese frames (like Yishun or lightcarbon).
Also curious to see if they will have any sale for 11.11
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Additional feedback on ride quality from the fully built bikes? I am interested in someone with also experience with higher priced Chinese frames (like Yishun or lightcarbon).
Also curious to see if they will have any sale for 11.11
I did another 105km ride on Sunday. I put my shifters a little more upright instead of the heavily inward tilted setup I had. It looks like this had improved the stability quite a bit. So I guess the 38cm handlebar paired with the 80mm stem and tilted shifters is not such a great combo with this frame...
I have had a problem with play on the rear derailleur hanger (with creaking as a result) but I think I managed to solve it. The outer part of the hanger has a threaded cylindrical part where the axle screws into. This cylinder fits trough the hole in the frame. I think this cylinder protrudes too far on the inside of the frame and it prevents the axle of the wheel to compress the derailleur hanger. It's hard to explain, but it looks like the axle of the wheel has to press the inner part of the derailleur hanger against the frame (so it is sandwiched between hub axle and frame) and in the original setup the axle of the wheel pressed against the cylindrical part of the outer part of the derailleur hanger so it did not press against the derailleur hanger.
I took the derailleur hanger apart and used some sanding paper to sand down the cylindrical part and now everything seems snug.
Chances are there will not be much of a sale on 11/11 but you could find a nice coupon for 40 USD or so... So if you are not in a hurry it might be interesting to wait...
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Probably there will be at least 100$ coupons for these range of prices on the 11.11 sales.
Today, after 40 days, finally arrived my frameset (ordered without handlebar). No logo carbon black size L frame weighs 1023g. Great weight. Wheelset is also from AliExpress: Elitewheels Edge 45mm depth.
I'll build the bicycle in the next weeks, I still have to buy crankset, cassette, chain, handlebar tape and tyres. With SRAM Force AXS groupset (Red crankset and cassette) I hope to be in the sub 7.5kg category.
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This is a custom pain job right? Did you have to pay extra?
Additional feedback on ride quality from the fully built bikes? I am interested in someone with also experience with higher priced Chinese frames (like Yishun or lightcarbon).
Also curious to see if they will have any sale for 11.11
Yes, this is custom paint job. I paid extra, but not much, like 30 dollars. I just received it yesterday and I will be completing all the gear through the winter time. To be ready for spring time. Frame weights 1038 grams in size large. Fork is 368 grams.
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Well, it seems I have now done 850km with the frame so maybe a little more feedback...
I am fairly happy with the frame now.
- Stability of the steering is a lot better with the grips less inward angled.
- Play in the rear derailleur stays away after the modification of the hanger parts
- There is some creaking that keeps popping up, especially after hitting a hole in the road or doing a little bunny hop. I suspect it is the left BB cup as there is always some anti-seize compound where the cup threads into the frame that even re-appears after a while even after washing it off. I reckon this can only mean there is some movement there. I am going to remove the cup, clean it and put some mild thread locker on the threads.
- Seatpost seems to stay put for the time being with he 6 Nm torque, thread locker on the bolt and a lot of carbon paste.
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Well, it seems I have now done 850km with the frame so maybe a little more feedback...
I am fairly happy with the frame now.
- Stability of the steering is a lot better with the grips less inward angled.
- Play in the rear derailleur stays away after the modification of the hanger parts
- There is some creaking that keeps popping up, especially after hitting a hole in the road or doing a little bunny hop. I suspect it is the left BB cup as there is always some anti-seize compound where the cup threads into the frame that even re-appears after a while even after washing it off. I reckon this can only mean there is some movement there. I am going to remove the cup, clean it and put some mild thread locker on the threads.
- Seatpost seems to stay put for the time being with he 6 Nm torque, thread locker on the bolt and a lot of carbon paste.
Great to hear your updates. I've almost finished my build (have been progressing slowly as have been in sling following shoulder surgery). Hopefully I'll get a test run over the next few weeks but won't really start riding it until December I'd say.
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Great to hear your updates. I've almost finished my build (have been progressing slowly as have been in sling following shoulder surgery). Hopefully I'll get a test run over the next few weeks but won't really start riding it until December I'd say.
I wish you a speedy recovery, but that seems to have been quite a serious surgery you got...
Yesterday I removed, cleaned and re-installed the left BB cup. It threaded in very easy, so I guess the threads in the frame are maybe a bit too loose. I have added the thread locker (very mild, the same I used to use on my spoke nipples when building wheels) so we'll see how it goes when I take the next ride...
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@lotnik any additional pictures of the frame you have received?
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Here is a complete review of the bike: Size M (I am 178 cm tall)
- Handlebar 380x90
- Shimano Di2 groupset
-Wheels : Hygge Shun 40mm
- Saddle: Hygge too
The assembly went perfectly. I didn't encounter any problems.
First ride : I did a 105 km ride. My previous bike was an ICAN A22 and I definitely prefer the Hygge. The geometry of the bike suits me perfectly and I find it much more comfortable and stiff at the same time. Furthermore, the color of the frame is magnificent. The bike controls very well on descents and responds very well on climbs and restarts and is very fast.
I had no problem with the saddle slipping (I had used carbon paste) with a tightening of 5.5 N.m. My saddle is also Hygge and I find it perfect for me too.
In summary, I absolutely do not regret having sold my ICAN A22 for Hygge. I find it better in every way and the contact with the manufacturer is exceptional. They answered all my questions. In short, I highly recommend it.
I will post pictures in another post.
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Just received my frames this week and wanted to share my thoughts with you all. Got pretty much what I expected for the price, considering they came from China. No major design flaws that can't be addressed. Let's dive into the details!
Positive:
- The paintwork is really beautiful
- The frames are super light (1063g in size 55/L)
Negative:
- The seatpost clamp is a pain. The hole of the middle wedge is too small and the screw prevents the wedge from moving sufficiently towards the seatpost. No matter how much torque you tighten it with, the force only works against the edge of the hole and not against the seatpost. (I'll do a separate post about that)
- The handlebar is just one of the cheap generic ones from aliexpress. It feels extremely flexy, I'm not sure I trust this one.
You can often find it branded as Kocevlo, but there are many other brandings too:
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005006028345937.html
Strangely, their website shows a completely different cockpit and headset assembly:
https://hygge-bikes.com/products/high-performance-integrated-road-handlebar
- The headset sucks and both of my frames were missing the top plastic cone. The headset has a slight amount of play. This is by design as there is no such thing as a compression ring/cone that could hold the upper bearing inner ring and steerer tube tightly together (different post).
- The frame and fork are very supple. I think they went to the limit, is this really still safe to ride? (I did a lateral stiffness test on the fork, it bends a lot -> different post).
- Seat tube angle: 73 degrees is too small (too much backset) in size L. Combined with the huge setback of the post and a big saddle pull (13cm mark, close to the maximum), it's really a pain. I am in the most forward position and still 5mm behind my optimal position (I really hope that one day a 0 setback post for the generic FM236 frame will be released).
- The front thru axle threads are only glued, other suppliers now show the fork with a replaceable insert
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005005982170845.html
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/New-Product-FM236-Red-glossy-Hidden_1600862434667.html
Neutral:
- Headtube angle is quite slack and I was afraid of the bike being really sluggish, but in the end I found it sufficiently agile.
- The chainstays are not wider than on other (disc-)bikes I've ridden. So no problem with heel clearance for me, although my heels are close due to my slight V-shape foot position.
The build was quite easy, luckily on 12s Di2 I don't have any wires going to the STIs.
7.7kg (55/L) including pedals, bottle cages, Garmin mount, powermeter (heavy 105 11/34 cassette, not the lightest tires, ..) that's really good for an aero bike!!
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Pictures.
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Seatpost clamp:
I installed it with a lot of carbon paste at 6Nm. The seatpost slowly dropped by 5mm during a 1h ride. On the front of the seatpost you can see the traces that the rails groomed in the carbon, when sliding. What a foolish idea to put the rails in pull direction.
Upon disassembling and inspecting the clamp, I discovered that the central part (the wedge that exerts pressure on the seatpost) became blocked prematurely. Surprisingly, the two outer parts still had approximately 1.5mm of clearance. The slot appears to be too small and hinders the wedge from moving further outward. You can clearly see that the screw began to work its way through the wedge's pointed side. Unfortunately, I didn't capture this in a photo.
My solution: I completely cut out the slot's brace. As a result, the wedge is no longer fixed in place when the seatpost is removed and could potentially fall into the frame. In return now the outer parts can be tightened to make contact, and the wedge is free to move outward, resulting in an approximate 0.5mm gain.
I'll continue testing this setup during my next rides to see how it performs.
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Headset assembly:
I received the headset unit (pic headset_assembly_label.png) with cone A, but unfortunately, part B is missing. The problem is that cone A is not flexible. While the outer conical surface (blue) fits snugly into the inner bearing ring, the inner surface (green) lacks a positively interlocking connection with the steerer tube. An additional clamping ring is missing here, which could possibly press A and steerer tube together. Or cone A should be designed to be flexible to clamp itself onto the steerer tube due to its conical shape and the force from above.
I am not sure how cone B is designed, but if it is flexible, this might be the solution. A flexible cone is 'advertised' on hygge-bikes.com.
Another example of a flexible topcap:
https://ritcheylogic.com/bike/headsets/Switch-upper-headset
It's frustrating that such small details were messed up. Play in the headset (on a new bike) sucks! Luckily this should be easily fixable with another top-cap/cone. Top bearing and steerer are standard, but will the interfacing to the spacer dovetails (or if spacer are swapped too, to the stem) then fit?
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Fork rigidity test:
For the sheer joy of testing and its simplicity, I decided to apply lateral force to the fork arms and measure the resulting deflection. While this test may not directly correlate with real-world scenarios it does provide a general insight into its rigidity. (A fork is primarily designed to withstand vertical forces, as well as forces opposing the direction of travel :D, in reality it is reinforced by the wheel's axle.)
I compared the deflection measurements to those of a 2021 KTM Revelator Alto fork:
KTM: 101.16 -> 98.20mm (3%)
HYGGE: 98.50mm -> 89.56mm (9%)
Indeed, the significant difference in deflection (3 times, that's a huge difference!!) measurements between the two forks raises valid concerns about the safety and overall performance of the fork.
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Fork rigidity test:
For the sheer joy of testing and its simplicity, I decided to apply lateral force to the fork arms and measure the resulting deflection. While this test may not directly correlate with real-world scenarios it does provide a general insight into its rigidity. (A fork is primarily designed to withstand vertical forces, as well as forces opposing the direction of travel :D, in reality it is reinforced by the wheel's axle.)
I compared the deflection measurements to those of a 2021 KTM Revelator Alto fork:
KTM: 101.16 -> 98.20mm (3%)
HYGGE: 98.50mm -> 89.56mm (9%)
Indeed, the significant difference in deflection (3 times, that's a huge difference!!) measurements between the two forks raises valid concerns about the safety and overall performance of the fork.
That's really interesting. My 2013 Orbea Orca has about 30mm of flex in the same way you have demonstrated. I have done over 30,000km on this with no problem whatsoever. I'm not sure what the concern is when any flex is limited as there is a wheel axle limiting any movement.
My real concern with any cheaper frame is the steerer tube not braking or cracking.
What is the weight difference between the two forks you compared?
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- The handlebar is just one of the cheap generic ones from aliexpress. It feels extremely flexy, I'm not sure I trust this one.
You can often find it branded as Kocevlo, but there are many other brandings too:
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005006028345937.html
Strangely, their website shows a completely different cockpit and headset assembly:
https://hygge-bikes.com/products/high-performance-integrated-road-handlebar
I am confused by your statement about the cockpit being flexible.
People write a fair amount of positive feedback on the "the one pro", kecevlo, etc. handlebars which are all the same as the one you got.
Maybe the Lack of siffness correlates with your headset Player issue and your high spacer stack.
Do the others have some additional feedback on the handlebars? I am thinking about getting a set.
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Headset assembly:
I received the headset unit (pic headset_assembly_label.png) with cone A, but unfortunately, part B is missing. The problem is that cone A is not flexible. While the outer conical surface (blue) fits snugly into the inner bearing ring, the inner surface (green) lacks a positively interlocking connection with the steerer tube. An additional clamping ring is missing here, which could possibly press A and steerer tube together. Or cone A should be designed to be flexible to clamp itself onto the steerer tube due to its conical shape and the force from above.
I am not sure how cone B is designed, but if it is flexible, this might be the solution. A flexible cone is 'advertised' on hygge-bikes.com.
Another example of a flexible topcap:
https://ritcheylogic.com/bike/headsets/Switch-upper-headset
It's frustrating that such small details were messed up. Play in the headset (on a new bike) sucks! Luckily this should be easily fixable with another top-cap/cone. Top bearing and steerer are standard, but will the interfacing to the spacer dovetails (or if spacer are swapped too, to the stem) then fit?
Here is my part. It is the hygge_bikes_com of your picture.
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I am confused by your statement about the cockpit being flexible.
People write a fair amount of positive feedback on the "the one pro", kecevlo, etc. handlebars which are all the same as the one you got.
Maybe the Lack of siffness correlates with your headset Player issue and your high spacer stack.
Do the others have some additional feedback on the handlebars? I am thinking about getting a set.
I have no problem with the handlebars. Plenty stiff for me... But I almost never do a sprint (I don't even think I ever did a decent sprint now I think about it). So maybe I'm not a good reference...
I think they look nice. I like the sharper edges on the handlebars compared to the ones that came with my TFSA frame (Black Inc. Barstem copy)
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I am confused by your statement about the cockpit being flexible.
People write a fair amount of positive feedback on the "the one pro", kecevlo, etc. handlebars which are all the same as the one you got.
Maybe the Lack of siffness correlates with your headset Player issue and your high spacer stack.
No, that are two different topics. There is play in the headset, I do not consider that as flex. The steerer is super stiff, the high spacer stack doesn't add a lot of flex (if any).
The handlebar is super flexy (I got the 380/120mm). You can already feel a slight flex on the brifters, but that's okay. In the drops I can bend it more than 1cm in any direction.
For sprinters this is not acceptable and I've never seen that on handlebars from reputable brands (neither alu nor carbon, they are all much stiffer).
A few years ago I had a Chinese carbon cockpit with a similar bend, it started creaking and I ended up breaking both handlebar sides right at the STI attachment point, during a load test.
The good news is that his cockpit isn't creaking yet, I'm not a sprinter, I'll keep using it (at least in the off-season).
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Here is my part. It is the hygge_bikes_com of your picture.
So you got the headset with the silver flexible top cone? The one with the smal (1mm) compression gap?
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So you got the headset with the silver flexible top cone? The one with the smal (1mm) compression gap?
Those components in red. I don't have the bottom part full closed likes on your second picture.
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Same set of headset parts here
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Same set of headset parts here
Looks to be the standard parts that it comes with. Mine were all the same as yours.
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It seems that the manufacturer has changed the steering kit, the hardware used to be more varied before.
Otherwise, I have no complaints, the frame looks amazing, I hope it will be the same in use.
The weight for size M with steel screws is 980 grams, the fork with the axle - 388, the seatpost - 202, the handlebar with stem (400/120) - 368.9 grams.
I'd like to specifically note the presence of carbon highlights under the matte varnish of the black version without decals. Usually, manufacturers hide imperfections in the frame's weave under black primer, but in this case, the primer seems transparent. This speaks highly of the manufacturer.
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I am debating between the velobuild vbr 177 and this Hygge model s. Any of you guys with the model s that also has experience with the vbr177?
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Finished assembling a bike on this frame. Wanted to share my thoughts with future buyers. This isn't some cheap Chinese wonder, you get what you pay for. Inside, there will be ugly blobs of glue, and there's an unsightly gap between the seat post hole and the frame. The di2 cable routing was intricate; I had to put in some effort to route the cable for the rear derailleur. Otherwise, everything's fine, done one indoor workout - it works quite nicely.
The matte black color is quite odd because of all these carbon reflections; perhaps I should have gone with a different finish.
Upd.
The 32mm tires fit, leaving a small mud clearance.
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I am debating between the velobuild vbr 177 and this Hygge model s. Any of you guys with the model s that also has experience with the vbr177?
As I see, Velobuild has updated the model 177 and now it supports tires up to 32mm, it also has a round seat post and a slightly higher stack. Additionally, the manufacturer indicates EPS molding on the website. Considering this, I would prefer Velobuild.
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Fork rigidity test:
For the sheer joy of testing and its simplicity, I decided to apply lateral force to the fork arms and measure the resulting deflection. While this test may not directly correlate with real-world scenarios it does provide a general insight into its rigidity. (A fork is primarily designed to withstand vertical forces, as well as forces opposing the direction of travel :D, in reality it is reinforced by the wheel's axle.)
I compared the deflection measurements to those of a 2021 KTM Revelator Alto fork:
KTM: 101.16 -> 98.20mm (3%)
HYGGE: 98.50mm -> 89.56mm (9%)
Indeed, the significant difference in deflection (3 times, that's a huge difference!!) measurements between the two forks raises valid concerns about the safety and overall performance of the fork.
You have hit on my main problem in buying these frames.
Some time ago I bought a Spanish brand of frame (CBK) I think manufactured in ICAN. After some time I improved my performance and noticed how in short and strong intervals it gave a flexing sensation.
I switched to Merida Scultura and buaf, new world, much more stiffness and I can't put fork and chainstays together with my hands.
Currently, I have a max power of 1300W, and I want to look for a frame with disc brakes and internal cabling, but at less than 700usd, I doubt the stiffness.
I like Elves, Hygge....
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You have hit on my main problem in buying these frames.
Some time ago I bought a Spanish brand of frame (CBK) I think manufactured in ICAN. After some time I improved my performance and noticed how in short and strong intervals it gave a flexing sensation.
I switched to Merida Scultura and buaf, new world, much more stiffness and I can't put fork and chainstays together with my hands.
Currently, I have a max power of 1300W, and I want to look for a frame with disc brakes and internal cabling, but at less than 700usd, I doubt the stiffness.
I like Elves, Hygge....
Check for the Speeder frames if you want something stiff I have their R48D and it's just as stiff or more then my allez sprint disc.
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This is probably anecdotal but...
The best quality affordable Chinese frames I've tested (stiffness, fit and finish, tolerances) have come frame companies/factories who do NOT offer up custom paint jobs and decals. Basically the OEM factories.
However, brands/agents who offer up all these crazy paint options and put a priority on aesthetics are probably hiding something in the QC department. Just spend 5 minutes the IG accounts from TanTan, Hygge, and even Elves.
I would rather a factory tell me they don't offer paint jobs because their focus is on the production and QC of their frames and components themselves.
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This is probably anecdotal but...
The best quality affordable Chinese frames I've tested (stiffness, fit and finish, tolerances) have come frame companies/factories who do NOT offer up custom paint jobs and decals. Basically the OEM factories.
However, brands/agents who offer up all these crazy paint options and put a priority on aesthetics are probably hiding something in the QC department. Just spend 5 minutes the IG accounts from TanTan, Hygge, and even Elves.
I would rather a factory tell me they don't offer paint jobs because their focus is on the production and QC of their frames and components themselves.
It's not anecdotal at all, you are quite right... I think like you... especially in brands like bxt, og ekvin, Seraph....
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This is probably anecdotal but...
The best quality affordable Chinese frames I've tested (stiffness, fit and finish, tolerances) have come frame companies/factories who do NOT offer up custom paint jobs and decals. Basically the OEM factories.
However, brands/agents who offer up all these crazy paint options and put a priority on aesthetics are probably hiding something in the QC department. Just spend 5 minutes the IG accounts from TanTan, Hygge, and even Elves.
I would rather a factory tell me they don't offer paint jobs because their focus is on the production and QC of their frames and components themselves.
Naked Carbon weave is the best finish anyways :D
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Naked Carbon weave is the best finish anyways :D
Totally agree, looks great, but any naked weave you see on Chinese frames is simply a cosmetic single layer and laid over the top of the finished frame, still hiding any imperfections on their frame. They're not manufactured with the same materials or process as Time where you can see the weave.
If you want to see manufacturing imperfections, the closest you'll get is an unpainted ud ready to paint, which will just look like an uglier version of a matte black painted finish.
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Have you had any further issues with the seat post? I saw you said you went to 10nn, however someone in a comment on the Henry Chung YouTube review commented they did theirs to 6.5nm and it cracked the frame. He hasn't said how it ended up with Hygge in terms of any replacement.
Sorry for my long absence and lack of reply on this. The answer is no issues whatsoever so far over 733km ridden, looks like with the thread locker and 10Nm torque on the bolt its held firm and today I am 105.8KG. The only thing I have done is fitted a 1mm spacer to the inside of each of the axles to allow more adjustment for the brake calibers as with the stock geometry I had brake disk rubbing, that's solved that for now but I think I will elongate the brake mounting holes in the future to allow the calibers to move over once I confirm it isn't the Z-Race disks that cause that.
I really am in love with this bike, but again I want to stress that I am completely new to cycling and this is my first road bike ever so that may skew my views. Today I added a power meter (Magene P505) so I think this bike is complete now and I aim to just get as much training in on it as possible over the next 12 months.
Here's my Strava link, in case anyone wanted to check my journey out. https://www.strava.com/athletes/11137711
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I've finally finished my build but yet to test as I'm still a few weeks away from getting back on the road from my shoulder surgery. Still need to source some wheels so I just used my zipps from my Orbea Orca aero to finish the set up.
In all was a pretty simple build, electric shifting so only disc brake cables to route (we'll see on how long they last). With the zipps, magene powermeter, pedals and everything else weight is 7.7kg.
Hopefully I will have the same feedback as others on here.
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My build came out at 6.75 kg without handlebar tape. I've already ordered a seatpost clamp «upgrade» from Elita One , so we'll see what I can do to break the 6.8 kg limit.
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My build came out at 6.75 kg without handlebar tape. I've already ordered a seatpost clamp «upgrade» from Elita One , so we'll see what I can do to break the 6.8 kg limit.
I'm curious, are your hydraulic hoses not internally routed into the bars? Also Hygge posted your photo on FB, I commented the same thing on the FB photo! ;D
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I'm curious, are your hydraulic hoses not internally routed into the bars? Also Hygge posted your photo on FB, I commented the same thing on the FB photo! ;D
This is an "extra" part sticking out. On that day, I went a bikefit procedure, and as a result, the specialist allowed me to remove some spacers from under the handlebar. Now, of course, there's handlebar tape installed, and the excess steerer tube has been cut off.
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First ride today. First impressions are positive.
The frame is stiff but with 28mm tyres it rides really well, much better than I anticipated coming from an Orbea Orca aero. I haven't had any seat post slippage and no other issues whatsoever but I only did 20km. My main concern is the crappy head tube spacers and the head tube remaining tight given they are only plastic so we will see how that goes after some decent mileage.
I'm built up with LTwoo electronic 12 speed. Shifting was good and braking performance seems good too.
Looking forward to seeing how it goes on longer rides.
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Hey folks, ordered my Model S in BOB last week. Want to build up with Ultegra R8100 and Elite Drive wheels. But it’s a long way to Germany for the frame ;) I want to order J&L Thru Axles and need the dimensions and pitch of the thread. The Hygge support chat was not very helpful. Maybe someone of you could give me all data printed on the axles or some detailed photos of these?!
Best wishes from Germany
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Why do you need these axles, weight? The standard frame set comes with a lightweight set of both axles, totaling 56 grams.
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Okay, that's already light. ;D I didn't know that. ZTTO or J&L axles are not significant lighter.
Others chinese frames that I ordered in the past came with very basic and heavy ones.
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As a replacement, it's worth looking for:
- New screws and nuts for the stem (stock ones are of a silly color, heavy, and soft).
- Make sure to replace the nut set in the seat post - they are super soft. Preferably, include the screws.
I can't specify the exact dimensions of these parts; I'm waiting for delivery, and if they fit 100%, I'll share the links.
The small hardware is the only thing that didn't satisfy me in the frame set :)
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Thanks for your replacement tips :)
This is what I ordered so far:
Where did you get the Eggbeaters for 40€? 8)
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Thanks for your replacement tips :)
This is what I ordered so far:
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This is only the price for the axles and caps - the pedals were my birthday present ;D 8)
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There is a Di2 Grommet for the SL7 seatpost - I ordered this and will try if it fits for the hygge seatpost.
Also I found SL7 seatposts with less offset on aliexpress - but I don't know if they will fit:
https://aliexpress.com/item/1005004458997659.html
https://aliexpress.com/item/1005005633578007.html
(https://www.certini.co.uk/images/Specialized-MSC-MY19-Venge-Di2-Grommets-199900003-black.jpg)
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My build came out at 6.75 kg without handlebar tape. I've already ordered a seatpost clamp «upgrade» from Elita One , so we'll see what I can do to break the 6.8 kg limit.
Do you have link for the clamp upgrade? The one I found won't fit because are M5 x35 bolts and Hygge seatpost uses M6x40 bolts
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This one is with M6 Bolts, i ordered one but don't know if it will fit:
https://aliexpress.com/item/1005005284645155.html
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(https://i.imgur.com/EBRty5y.jpg)
I received the frameset, black with laser decals, size XS(46). The frame weight without all hardware is 963g, the fork without the axle is 353g, the seatpost without seat clamp 133g (clamp 67g), and the handlebar 328g (360*110mm).
Frame looks good, but has some small imperfections under the coating, and some small area of rough surface in headset, but besides that all feels nice and smooth. I think it's a good quality for this price (around 550 USD with shipping).
Now about the issues:
1) Antislip coating not applied at the last 5 cm of the seatpost, and if your seatpost exposed less than 18cm from frame - the seatpost clamp will not be in contact with antislip coating.
(https://i.imgur.com/aV8y2Re.jpg)
2) Seat clamp nuts are made from some soft aluminium, and i had experience with this type of thing, steel bolts just destroys thread in this type of aluminium, and i already ordered titanium version. Sizes are M6 10x14mm and M6 10x20mm.
3) One of the rivet nuts in handlebar installed at an angle, and head unit mount looks slightly to the right when bolts are tightened. I think i can fix it by erasing part of the mount with sandpaper, so bolt will have more space.
(https://i.imgur.com/eLaq88U.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1N5dhod.jpg)
4) The fork steerer tube not perfectly round, and has some deviation in wall thickness, around 0.3 mm, and expander plug fits very snug. But maybe it's just this plug.
(https://i.imgur.com/Kk3QXj9.jpg)
5) Some aluminium bolts has inconsistent quality. Steel bolts are ok.
If you are interested in more photos, here are links:
Frame photos https://imgur.com/a/mMdOfu0
Frame and parts weight https://imgur.com/a/qxBMj7H
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3) One of the rivet nuts in handlebar installed at an angle, and head unit mount looks slightly to the right when bolts are tightened. I think i can fix it by erasing part of the mount with sandpaper, so bolt will have more space.
Over the years I've developed a high tolerance for cheap Chinese frame quirks: Rough edges underneath the headset bearing cups, poorly faced caliper mounts, and even questionable paint overspray.
But poorly installed rivet nuts is not one of them. Especially for the handlebar computer mount. I was ready to break my laptop after seeing your photo. That one small infraction just reeks of poor quality and/or QC. I haven't been too thrilled with Hygee which is why I haven't inquired about a frameset yet.
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Over the years I've developed a high tolerance for cheap Chinese frame quirks: Rough edges underneath the headset bearing cups, poorly faced caliper mounts, and even questionable paint overspray.
But poorly installed rivet nuts is not one of them. Especially for the handlebar computer mount. I was ready to break my laptop after seeing your photo. That one small infraction just reeks of poor quality and/or QC. I haven't been too thrilled with Hygee which is why I haven't inquired about a frameset yet.
Yea, poorly faced caliper mounts, which requires special tool or bike mechanic (and money) to solve, is almost the same as slightly tilted computer mount, which requires some sandpaper to solve. As far as I can tell you are already have some tolerance to sandpaper, and poorly faced caliper mounts seems to me just as much evidence of poor quality control.
You've already faced with rubbing headset cover on your Yishun, which means that the manufacturer either has low tolerances or has not checked compatibility at all.
I'm not trying to defend hygge, but the need to use some sandpaper is normal for Chinese frames at that price. And I don't understand, why tilted rivet nut got you so angry.
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I had none of those issues with my frame. The mount has tolerance in it to allow it to be adjusted slightly each way. No issues at all with brakes as both had been surfaced.
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I had none of those issues with my frame. The mount has tolerance in it to allow it to be adjusted slightly each way. No issues at all with brakes as both had been surfaced.
Cutout in my mount is so narrow, that it takes some effort to insert the bolts. But on the ends of the cutout they slips without effort. Perhaps the cut just isn't perfectly straight.
I set the mount to full extension and you can judge for yourself how serious this problem is.
(https://i.imgur.com/ykIgYlK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/eVpf9fW.jpg)
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My mount also does not line up with the print on the handlebar. Don't know if the problem is the print or the mount ::)
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My frame is arriving soon hope it won’t have any issue :'(
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I was ready to break my laptop after seeing your photo.
May Allah have mercy on its soul
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There's a new review on Hygge, this time by a supposedly more experienced reviewer. In his two videos, he brilliantly pointed out all the flaws in the production of those cheap Chinese frames: voids around the head tube, low-quality paint, and so on. The only difference is that the frame he showcased without a handlebar costs a whopping $1600. I hope no laptops were harmed during the filming. ;D
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There's a new review on Hygge, this time by a supposedly more experienced reviewer. In his two videos, he brilliantly pointed out all the flaws in the production of those cheap Chinese frames: voids around the head tube, low-quality paint, and so on. The only difference is that the frame he showcased without a handlebar costs a whopping $1600. I hope no laptops were harmed during the filming. ;D
Link?
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Anyone know what sort of max tire width is? Spec says 28mm, wondering if it is a bit larger as typical.
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Anyone know what sort of max tire width is? Spec says 28mm, wondering if it is a bit larger as typical.
My 28's measure 30,5mm. There is space to go one size up in the rear, but in the front it's almost maxed out.
There are some comments in this youtube video comments section about tire size. 32mm (real size) seems to be the absolute max for front.
So if you've got wide rims, 28 front (tire size, not measured) and 30mm back might be the safe bet.
https://youtu.be/LmtTsbBcm_s?si=Ppq_9Ulk6qU18Ied (https://youtu.be/LmtTsbBcm_s?si=Ppq_9Ulk6qU18Ied)
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Hello.
I also bought a hygge cadre set. yet at the shipping stage. it is generally mentioned that the cadre is hard.
I ordered by trusting the comments. I hope it is a very hard frame.
(https://hizliresim.com/7fus7dv)
(https://hizliresim.com/ifpuf56)
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32 front and back is possible with conti GP 5000. Front has very litte clearance. i am now running 28 front and 30 rear, what looks better in my opinion.
for the frame holes with di2 i was searching quite a bit and used the following:
https://r2-bike.com/SRAM-Rahmenstopfen-Frame-Plug-63-mm-65-mm-1-Stueck
modified with hole for cable, they fit perfekt front and rear.
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Here is some of my photos just to share around l.
Have not build it yet.
Want to check with you guys how you all stuff the DI2 battery at the seat post and make it stay?
This is my first time building a bike
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Here is some of my photos just to share around l.
Have not build it yet.
Want to check with you guys how you all stuff the DI2 battery at the seat post and make it stay?
This is my first time building a bike
Lacking a dedicated batteryholder, iv'e used some of the foam material that the frame usually is wrapped with.
Wrap around the battery to get a snug/press fit in the seatpost.
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Hi guys,
I ordered the Hygge frame a month ago and yesterday it already arrived in Germany, although it was expected to arrive beginning of February. At first glance all looks pretty good, no obvious defects.
One small issue I came across…I tried to mount the bottom bracket as a small test but could not screw it in at first try (it’s a token triple8 for SRAM GXP). Anyone of you had problems with the BSA threads?
Will try it again when I come back home from Christmas holiday
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I didn't have any issues with bottom bracket thread. Everything was nice and smooth.
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I didn't have any issues with bottom bracket thread. Everything was nice and smooth.
Same here
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Thanks for the info guys.
Had a quick look in the morning, tried it again and now it works smoothly :)
Will build it up throughout January. I already got most of the parts, only one important thing is missing…the groupset. I want to stay 11 speed so I can swap wheels easily from my other bike plus I already got the 11 speed sram red crankset. Probably going to buy the er9 but I am still wondering if I should maybe wait a little and see if the wheeltop group will be officially launched soon…
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Hello newbie here, wanna check with you guys how much gap is needed between the top of the stem and expander plug? Wanna confirm this before I cut my fork
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I haven’t cut mine yet but maybe check henrychungs build on YT. I think he shows the way how he cut the fork.
Anyone replaced most of the standard screws with titanium screws and can provide an overview of the screw types, especially for stem and saddle?
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I am confused by your statement about the cockpit being flexible.
People write a fair amount of positive feedback on the "the one pro", kecevlo, etc. handlebars which are all the same as the one you got.
Maybe the Lack of siffness correlates with your headset Player issue and your high spacer stack.
Do the others have some additional feedback on the handlebars? I am thinking about getting a set.
I have the Kocevlo cockpit (40cm width, 120 stem) and it's super stiff. I raced crits on it all year. And I have a pretty decent sprint around 1,600W and weigh 85kg. Zero concerns about stiffness.
For the owners of the Hygge frame, how stiff is it? I'm looking for something super stiff.
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Nearly finished my build.
Final result will come at the end of this week.
Goal sub 7kg will be reached - any tips to save some weight?
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Speedplay Comp pedals + Titanium upgrade kit (
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EG9zrtj) ~150g
Which carbon clamp did you get? I bought this one but the bottom part don't fit properly the gap of the seatpost
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I had to combine 2 clamps.
Buttom of this: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005005134477962.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.29.37295c5f1YBCFA&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
Top of this: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005005284645155.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.23.37295c5f1YBCFA&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
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Nearly finished my build.
Final result will come at the end of this week.
Goal sub 7kg will be reached - any tips to save some weight?
For weightsaving a SROAD Monoblock cassette, if you can find one
That's 60gr off on paper, i have one on my bike it shifts ok, haven't compared shift quality with Ultegra though.
SROAD12 Speed Road Bicycle Cassette CNC 11-32T Freeewheel Fits Shimano Hub Super Light CNC 230g 12S Road Bike Casstte
MODEL: WSD-8012-1132-A1
SPEED: 12S
SIZE: 131*44MM
TEETH: 11-32T (11-12-13-14-15-16-18-20-22-25-28-32)
WEIGHT: 230G
MATERIAL: Chrome Molybdenum Vanadium Steel Aviation aluminum alloy
CASSETTE: Fit Shimano Hub body
COLOR: SILVER, RAINBOW, GOLDEN, DARK GRAY.
CHAIN: BLACK COLOR SUMC 12 SPEED 12SL 126 LINKS WITH LOCK.
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I thought about this but these gramm-savings are not in relation to the performance lost in my opinion. Maybe change to DuraAce Cassette but this is a too expensive wearing part. I am riding ZTTO Cassette on my 11-speed 105 bike with no problems (done Paris-Brest-Paris with this) but for 12 Speed and Di2 the opinions are divided.
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I thought about this but these gramm-savings are not in relation to the performance lost in my opinion. Maybe change to DuraAce Cassette but this is a too expensive wearing part. I am riding ZTTO Cassette on my 11-speed 105 bike with no problems (done Paris-Brest-Paris with this) but for 12 Speed and Di2 the opinions are divided.
Yeah, cassettes are on my list of parts that I probably will never buy from Ali again... Had to go through 3 ZTTO cassettes and 7 chains (those are also on the list) in a couple of 1000km's to realise this is not the area to save money.
Sram and Shimano for cassettes and chains since then.
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Nearly finished my build.
Final result will come at the end of this week.
Goal sub 7kg will be reached - any tips to save some weight?
What did you use to hold the Di2 battery in the seatpost?
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Simply a piece of foam the frame was wrapped in
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Nearly finished my build.
Final result will come at the end of this week.
Goal sub 7kg will be reached - any tips to save some weight?
You could save about 15 gramms on that ZTTO Foam Hose Liner.
The Blue Capgo anti-vibration foam (https://www.bike-components.de/de/capgo/Noise-Protection-Schaumstoffhuelle-fuer-Bremszugaussenhuelle-p60382/?o=502308-blau-2-m) is a lot lighter. It weighs about 1.5 Gramms per meter.
Sorry for making you rip apart your bike again :P Nice build tho!
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Nearly finished my build.
Final result will come at the end of this week.
Goal sub 7kg will be reached - any tips to save some weight?
Aren't those headset bearings 8mm height? I've measured the ones included by Hygge and they are 6.5mm
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That was no problem. They sit pretty close in the frame. I had to grind the center ring which was delivered with the Avian handlebar 2 Millimeters. But that’s no problem because the material is 3D printed plastic. All sits pretty snug and there is no play in the headset.
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You could save about 15 gramms on that ZTTO Foam Hose Liner.
The Blue Capgo anti-vibration foam (https://www.bike-components.de/de/capgo/Noise-Protection-Schaumstoffhuelle-fuer-Bremszugaussenhuelle-p60382/?o=502308-blau-2-m) is a lot lighter. It weighs about 1.5 Gramms per meter.
Sorry for making you rip apart your bike again :P Nice build tho!
Thanks for your tip on the foam. I think I will change it when I have to change the bearings in the future. Only for that few Gramms that’s too much work ;D
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Bike is ready - first ride tomorrow. 8)
Weight including pedals, Wahoo-mount and Fidlock-Holders (without bottles).
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What did you use to hold the Di2 battery in the seatpost?
I use this one and it fits in the seat tube.
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Bike is ready - first ride tomorrow. 8)
Weight including pedals, Wahoo-mount and Fidlock-Holders (without bottles).
It's amazing you managed to keep the weight so low :)
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I love seeing budget frames built with premium components.
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Nearly finished my build.
Final result will come at the end of this week.
Goal sub 7kg will be reached - any tips to save some weight?
a new crankset light a skypivot would be a lot lighter or the new stuff from elilee thats coming out soon (24mm spindle)
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I have just finished 600km and 7000m of climbing over 6 days on my frame riding to watch the Tour Down Under stages on some pretty poor road surfaces. So far the frame has performed above expectations.
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I think they did a new fork design with changeable inserts. Picture from their last Facebook post:
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I think they did a new fork design with changeable inserts. Picture from their last Facebook post:
I'm guessing this is one of early versions, because if you look at the reviews on aliexpress - you will see, that the early models (until 2023 summer) came with inserts, and the newer models have glued thread.
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I have just finished 600km and 7000m of climbing over 6 days on my frame riding to watch the Tour Down Under stages on some pretty poor road surfaces. So far the frame has performed above expectations.
hi.How did he perform on the climbs, I'm curious about his reactions?
Did it give you a hard frame feeling?
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hi.How did he perform on the climbs, I'm curious about his reactions?
Did it give you a hard frame feeling?
Not at all. It was actually really good, no frame flex at all but not a harsh ride. I was running 28mm tyres at 80psi.
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Hi guys,
took some time to build the bike mainly because I was missing components and because of lack of time. However, the weather here is anyway still too bad to ride it outside.
Bike weighs 7.3 kg including pedals and wahoo mount. Only the bottle cages are missing...so pretty much spot on 7kg without.
Only things that I still need to work on are:
- fine tune the shifting
- check if I like the brakes or if I swap them to the stock ltwoo ones. I like the silver look of the zrace but they still feel a little spongy compared to the ultegra brakes on my old bike. Maybe I just need to re-bleed them again, let's see.
The build-process was generally pretty simple. The only issue I had was that I needed tro drill out the whole for the di2 cable in the chainstay as it was not properly drilled inside. I think there were some sharp edges inside so the cable didn't want to go through. The rest was straightforward.
I will wait with my first ride until we have dry conditions here :)
Future updates to arrive at around 7kg ready to ride might be a lighter cassette (I use a 105 11-32 right now), lighter chain and maybe 140 rotor in the back.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q70/922/Zn5Dxs.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q70/923/RId1O0.jpg)
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Hi guys,
took some time to build the bike mainly because I was missing components and because of lack of time. However, the weather here is anyway still too bad to ride it outside.
Bike weighs 7.3 kg including pedals and wahoo mount. Only the bottle cages are missing...so pretty much spot on 7kg without.
Only things that I still need to work on are:
- fine tune the shifting
- check if I like the brakes or if I swap them to the stock ltwoo ones. I like the silver look of the zrace but they still feel a little spongy compared to the ultegra brakes on my old bike. Maybe I just need to re-bleed them again, let's see.
The build-process was generally pretty simple. The only issue I had was that I needed tro drill out the whole for the di2 cable in the chainstay as it was not properly drilled inside. I think there were some sharp edges inside so the cable didn't want to go through. The rest was straightforward.
I will wait with my first ride until we have dry conditions here :)
Future updates to arrive at around 7kg ready to ride might be a lighter cassette (I use a 105 11-32 right now), lighter chain and maybe 140 rotor in the back.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q70/922/Zn5Dxs.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q70/923/RId1O0.jpg)
What wheels are those? Do I read DuraAce? But i havent seen DA wheels in that finish...
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What wheels are those? Do I read DuraAce? But i havent seen DA wheels in that finish...
Haha, busted! Those are Elitewheels Drive. I really like them since for me the raw carbon finish perfectly matches the finish of the frame but I didn't like the Drive decals. So I ordered them without decals and used the Dura-Ace decals wich are more subtle/classy if you ask me.
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Mine also with Elite Drive. First 500km with the bike were satisfying
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Mine also with Elite Drive. First 500km with the bike were satisfying
Nice :) So at least two Hygge bikes with Drive wheels on the German roads!
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Those glossy wheels are nice with the frame :)
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My frame arrived on Friday and I built it up over the weekend.
First impressions are great, paint quality seems nice and internal finishing also looks nice.
Still waiting on Elitewheels Edge wheelset being delivered to finish properly.
(https://i.imgur.com/EFfi8nA.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/x2kzVa8.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1hlbfhr.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6dnshn0.jpeg)
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My frame arrived on Friday and I built it up over the weekend.
First impressions are great, paint quality seems nice and internal finishing also looks nice.
Still waiting on Elitewheels Edge wheelset being delivered to finish properly.
@stevenC what 3d printed saddle are you using in your bike? The color looks amazing! Is that a custom color?
On my end i ordered a chameleon model S. Should be here early March and they were apparently out of stock so needs an extra week to build/paint the frame. They offered me other colors that were pretty ugly (but more expensive free of charge but I'm in no rush). Going to be building this with a 105 di2 from theproscloset during the close out sale last year.
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@stevenC what 3d printed saddle are you using in your bike? The color looks amazing! Is that a custom color?
On my end i ordered a chameleon model S. Should be here early March and they were apparently out of stock so needs an extra week to build/paint the frame. They offered me other colors that were pretty ugly (but more expensive free of charge but I'm in no rush). Going to be building this with a 105 di2 from theproscloset during the close out sale last year.
Colour was available on their AliExpress store but the colour choices seem to have been narrowed down now. It looks great in the flesh, quite a bit of sparkle to it in the sun.
(https://i.imgur.com/c1BD4nS.jpeg)
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beautiful bike!
I was gonna say it was the Ryet Aircode (pro stealth shape), I have the same one on my bike, end of march will be 1yr with it, it's comfortable and the quality is very nice, it's still same as new
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What torque are you guys using on the seat clamp?
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What torque are you guys using on the seat clamp?
6,4 N.m in order to avoid slipping.
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For your information, I sell mine (see "sales and classified" topic) because of injury. The bike is only 600 km (Shimano 105 Di2).
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What saddle clamp does Hygge install? Do they include both 7*7 and 7*9 clamps?
Thanks
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What torque are you guys using on the seat clamp?
I went with 6nm, carbon paste and thread lock on the bolt. So far seems ok.
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I went with 6nm, carbon paste and thread lock on the bolt. So far seems ok.
Thanks, I did the same as you but only 5Nm and the seatpost is slipping. I will now try 6Nm.
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What saddle clamp does Hygge install? Do they include both 7*7 and 7*9 clamps?
Thanks
It is a single vertical type clamp, so both 7*7 and 7*9 saddle rails are compatible. I do not yet own the frame but the clamp style is clear from the pictures.
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Hi all, I am new to this forum, and I am very appreciative that such thing exists to make information about this topic more reliable and easily accessible. I am yet to make purchase of this frame in the upcoming March anniversary sale. Almost all questions I had were answered in this thread, but I am left with the dilemma of sizing of the frame.
I am 175.5cm tall with 82cm inseam. This puts me in the bottom end of size M, but I am afraid that it will be too long and too tall for my posture, even more so given the 18mm offset of the seat post. My current setup is 385mm reach, 540mm stack, 100mm stem (slammed on top of the headset cover) and a 0 offset seat post. If I go with S size frame, the saddle will be pushed 8mm forward to achieve the same position (that is according to calculations based on my current setup) and will have -4mm of reach which is fine as I feel that the current 385mm is a little too long. Will have to use 30-35mm of spacers to get to the same stack height, although I feel I can go lower given the reduced reach. The stem length will remain the same, 100mm. Saddle height is 72.5cm.
This is all on paper in regard to mu current bike, old Cube Agree Pro rim brake from 2012 (ancient, I know :D), and I would greatly appreciate some real-world input about sizing.
Thanks to all in advance!
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Hi all, I am new to this forum, and I am very appreciative that such thing exists to make information about this topic more reliable and easily accessible. I am yet to make purchase of this frame in the upcoming March anniversary sale. Almost all questions I had were answered in this thread, but I am left with the dilemma of sizing of the frame.
I am 175.5cm tall with 82cm inseam. This puts me in the bottom end of size M, but I am afraid that it will be too long and too tall for my posture, even more so given the 18mm offset of the seat post. My current setup is 385mm reach, 540mm stack, 100mm stem (slammed on top of the headset cover) and a 0 offset seat post. If I go with S size frame, the saddle will be pushed 8mm forward to achieve the same position (that is according to calculations based on my current setup) and will have -4mm of reach which is fine as I feel that the current 385mm is a little too long. Will have to use 30-35mm of spacers to get to the same stack height, although I feel I can go lower given the reduced reach. The stem length will remain the same, 100mm. Saddle height is 72.5cm.
This is all on paper in regard to mu current bike, old Cube Agree Pro rim brake from 2012 (ancient, I know :D), and I would greatly appreciate some real-world input about sizing.
Thanks to all in advance!
I am 172 with a 82cm inseam. I have the S and had to use a 80mm stem (slammed) to get it to fit. Because of the slack seattube angle and the setback seatpost (no 0-setback seatpost available) the bike becomes a little longer... I like a more compact position, so I try to keep the reach as short as possible.
So I would guess the S will fit you better.
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Finally build finish my bike after 4 months. Just completed 60KM on it. Smooth ride just having a bit of play at the headset while braking.
Sub 7kg with Di2 ulterga R8170, Magene PES 505 power meter, Superteam 50/60 wheelset, Ryet 3D Carbon saddle and Onirii SPD SL pedal.
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Finally build finish my bike after 4 months. Just completed 60KM on it. Smooth ride just having a bit of play at the headset while braking.
Sub 7kg with Di2 ulterga R8170, Magene PES 505 power meter, Superteam 50/60 wheelset, Ryet 3D Carbon saddle and Onirii SPD SL pedal.
What an absolute unit of the bike. Did you paint the handlebar yourself?
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What an absolute unit of the bike. Did you paint the handlebar yourself?
Thanks. Didn’t paint it myself ask them to paint everything including the seatpost.
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I finally built the bike and take one week of riding on a trainer, everything work nice, no creaking or clicking, seatpost doesn't slip despite the fact that I did not use grip paste and cut seatpost so clamp doesn't contacted with grippy coating.
The build was relatively easy, no stuck cables or bad threads, calipers and bottom bracket are align.
But there was a several nuances during the build:
1) Sharp edge where cables exits from handlebar (under the "stem" area), not enough to cut housings, but enough to scratch them and make routing process more difficult. So i sanded it.
2) Expander plug fit in steerer tube very tight and i can't extract it without tools, so i sanded some material from plug. But i think, this is plug problem, not steerer tube, because expander plug from my old bike fits with no problem.
3) Stuffing four housings in headset pressing ring was real pain in my ass, there is enough space for them but no more than that.
4) Computer mount, which comes with handlebar is flexy, and I'm afraid it might break on bumps. Here some video only with garmin edge 520
https://photos.app.goo.gl/6zJ4M9U8mGiqyUYu8
And with 200g bike light
https://photos.app.goo.gl/h3aWyDJYAE5Yg76n8
So I'm looking for more rigid computer mount.
But overall it's a good frameset, it's stiffer in bottom bracket area than my old Jamis Xenith Race (2014), handlebar shape nice and comfortable, laser decals looks amazing.
Final weight is 7.685 kg with pedals, bottle cages, computer mounts and sensors, I took into account all the components that are attached to the frame.
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So, it seems I am once again unlucky enough to have a problem. My handlebar has developed all these little bumps in the paint, especially on the exposed top part where there is no bartape.
I have searched a little and have found this is called "microblisters"and is because of bad prepping before paint. Moisture is trapped and after a while it come to the surface and pushes the paint up.
I have contacted Hygge and will keep you updated...
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So, it seems I am once again unlucky enough to have a problem. My handlebar has developed all these little bumps in the paint, especially on the exposed top part where there is no bartape.
I have searched a little and have found this is called "microblisters"and is because of bad prepping before paint. Moisture is trapped and after a while it come to the surface and pushes the paint up.
I have contacted Hygge and will keep you updated...
How much flex does your handlebar have? Does it flex, or is it stiff as alloy handlebar+stem?
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How much flex does your handlebar have? Does it flex, or is it stiff as alloy handlebar+stem?
I don't put down a lot of watts, but to me it is plenty stiff... You can find this handlebar from Kocevlo on Ali
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Well, I would recommend anyone thinking about a Hygge frame to look somewhere else. This brand is very dishonest and WILL NOT HONOUR THE 24 MONTH WARRANTY they claim on their website.
Like I said before I noticed a lot of little bubbles on the handlebar last week. After looking it up this is probably microblistering and is because of bad paint preparation and moisture trapped under the paint. This will show as bubbles after a while.
I contacted Hygge on Aliexpress because the bike is only 7 months old and has done a little over 1.000km (it was not used during winter).
They straight up denied warranty because according to them it is impossible that paint defects show up only after 7 months and they also claim paint defects are no reason for warranty.
I also went to their Aliexpress store page and looked trough the reviews. They seem to be having a habit of denying responsibility of wrong deliveries or frames that get damaged in transport.
I am actually really sick of all these crappy brands and sellers that are supposed to give 24 months of warranty, but if you need it act like nothing it's wrong so leave it to the customer to spend a lot more money to fix the sellers problems.
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Meanwhile i'm supposed to receive my frame next week lol
You should post the pics of it here and on socials since they seem to lurk and steal people's photos. Maybe that'll get them to act.
On the other hand, i think they use a rebranded handlebar from some other company and sell it for like 100$ so it's not that expensive if you ever need to purchase another one and hope that yours was a one off defect....or go with your own handlebar... But i hope you get it resolved somehow
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Well, I would recommend anyone thinking about a Hygge frame to look somewhere else. This brand is very dishonest and WILL NOT HONOUR THE 24 MONTH WARRANTY they claim on their website.
Like I said before I noticed a lot of little bubbles on the handlebar last week. After looking it up this is probably microblistering and is because of bad paint preparation and moisture trapped under the paint. This will show as bubbles after a while.
I contacted Hygge on Aliexpress because the bike is only 7 months old and has done a little over 1.000km (it was not used during winter).
They straight up denied warranty because according to them it is impossible that paint defects show up only after 7 months and they also claim paint defects are no reason for warranty.
I also went to their Aliexpress store page and looked trough the reviews. They seem to be having a habit of denying responsibility of wrong deliveries or frames that get damaged in transport.
I am actually really sick of all these crappy brands and sellers that are supposed to give 24 months of warranty, but if you need it act like nothing it's wrong so leave it to the customer to spend a lot more money to fix the sellers problems.
Can you show a photo of these bubbles?
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Can you show a photo of these bubbles?
(https://i.imgur.com/24ybFaN.jpeg)
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Well, I would recommend anyone thinking about a Hygge frame to look somewhere else. This brand is very dishonest and WILL NOT HONOUR THE 24 MONTH WARRANTY they claim on their website.
I remember yours was one of the first Hygge frames here. Looked terrific, price was great, communication was good ~, excellent colors etc. Within 6 months we have come this far. Long term reviews are so important! Did you pester them on their IG account yet? I have often found companies respond better on social media than sending them a mail.
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Hygge probably used the bottom of the barrel integrated carbon bars similar to those cheap Kocevlo drop bars for like $50 USD. I ordered Kocevlo bars that came blistered like that brand new, luckily I was able to return it. Plus it was heavy as s**t at 410g. My integrated gravel drops are a good 60g less weight and much better quality. I think if I do get a new frame in the future, I'll opt to buy without handle bars.
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I have a VB-268 frameset delivering later today. When it comes it to building up these super budget frames I find that a careful consideration of 3rd party components, wheels, and hardware are far more important than the frame itself. At this point I don't even bother ordering handlebars or headset bearings anymore.
Obviously a customer should not need to do this if the brand is providing decent equipment. But usually this is where the cost cutting measures have been made. Don't leave the 3 contact points up for chance.
Quality handlebar/stem/wheels from reputable brands, extra long compression plug, and a reliable bottom bracket. The marginal upgrade of each component collectively can transform most $500 frames.
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(https://i.imgur.com/24ybFaN.jpeg)
Really looks like it's purely a surface finish issue. I painted trim once, too much primer and too much paint in too cold a room and not enough time between coats, and the paint cracked all over. I know nothing, but i really doubt this has anything to do with the structural integrity of the bars. I dont understand from your picture if you got a special paint job or if it's just standard black bars.
What's the answer here, a quick fine grit sanding and clear nail polish to protect the carbon, or just sanding and polishing / buffing as you probably wont reach the carbon?
Unless you think the carbon is getting soft and the whole thing is starting to delaminate and collapse on itself?
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I don't plan to do anything with the bars. It will probably be a finish issue so no integrity problem.
The bars are cheap yes. These are indeed the same as the Kocevlo bars that you can get for a little over 60€. But since they are integrated bars, I am not looking forward to replacing them.
I'm just amazed at how Hygge is handling this. It can not cost them more then 30-40 USD to send me a new handlebar, bit they just deny the problem and act as if granting warranty is a choice of the seller. If they act like this for this little money, you can be sure they will not honour warranty when there is a problem with the frame. The bad reviews support this hypothesis. They just hide behind Aliexpress policies instead of helping the customer.
It looks like Hygge is just one more seller that is friendly and supportive when they want to sell you something, but the opposite when you need them to fix a problem.
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It looks like Hygge is just one more seller that is friendly and supportive when they want to sell you something, but the opposite when you need them to fix a problem.
Congratulation, you discovered a typical seller/brand that sells very cheap products.
They (and many others) sell a frameset, sometimes with a handlebar, for 450-550USD, it's 3-5 times cheaper than cheapest options from a big brands. And for me it's strange to expect, that they want to spend 50-100USD to replace handlebar with bad paintjob. With these cheap chinese frames you just play roulette, with high risk, high reward.
And about handlebar, I suggest you or forget about it, or start to write them on social networks, aliexpress chat, mail etc. This might lasts weeks. If you still can - open aliexpress dispute.
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Received and started building the bike and ran into my first problem.
Overall on the outside everything looks pretty good.
However, my seat post won't go in all the way because there is a lip of carbon. I'm missing around 10mm of seat post inside to get my desired seat height. I think I have 2 options:
1) File down the carbon in the seat tube so that the seat post goes in.
2) Cut the seat post by 10mm
Also noticed some imperfections but I think are mostly cosmetic from the mold
Does anyone know what's better?
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How far does your seatpost go in? There is a max insertion depth, so it is normal you have to cut your seatpost
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How far does your seatpost go in? There is a max insertion depth, so it is normal you have to cut your seatpost
It was stopping at the #7 marking which is like 18cm in the seat tube
Also for future reference. official torque specs from Hygge
Seat Post clam: 5-6 nm
Stem: 5-6 nm
Handlebar: 5-6 nm
Compression plug: 6 nm
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It was stopping at the #7 marking which is like 18cm in the seat tube
Also for future reference. official torque specs from Hygge
Seat Post clam: 5-6 nm
Stem: 5-6 nm
Handlebar: 5-6 nm
Compression plug: 6 nm
That's already very deep I think. You best check with the seller, but I think you can cut some cm's off the seatpost. So don't start filing down the frame
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For reference: I had the same with my tfsa frame. Could only insert 14cm. They told me you need about 10cm insertion.
But check with the seller. Every frame is different. I know I cut my Hygge seatpost
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I spent a day umming and ahhing over which colourway to go with and after seeing your bike, I bit the bullet and ordered the same. I think my build will be exactly the same as yours except for I've opted for mechanical ultegra as my goal was to keep total build under £1200 which seem pretty mental given current bike prices. My last build was a Supersix HM in 2018 so I'm keen to see how cheap Chinese bike frame compare to older high end stuff.
How is it holding up? Did you have any QC issues ( paint over spray, irregular or non concentric thru axle holes, seat post slipping?).
Also how does it ride? I get this is totally subjective but any feedback would be appreciated.
:)My frame arrived on Friday and I built it up over the weekend.
First impressions are great, paint quality seems nice and internal finishing also looks nice.
Still waiting on Elitewheels Edge wheelset being delivered to finish properly.
(https://i.imgur.com/EFfi8nA.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/x2kzVa8.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1hlbfhr.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6dnshn0.jpeg)
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Thanks, I did the same as you but only 5Nm and the seatpost is slipping. I will now try 6Nm.
A little update. The seatpost seems to be stable with 6Nm and 2 layers of cloth tape to the back of the seatpost. I have now done about 300km without it slipping.
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the frame turned out to be rigid as I did not expect. the power transmission is very good. i like it very much. i use it with pleasure. hygge responds clearly to questions about customer satisfaction, but if you have a problem, I think they are very inadequate in sending spare parts and bodies.
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A little update. The seatpost seems to be stable with 6Nm and 2 layers of cloth tape to the back of the seatpost. I have now done about 300km without it slipping.
it's odd, typically the torque specs for seatposts of that nature are much higher. On my LT it says max 12nm on the clamp, and frame, seatpost & clamp systems look very very similar. The seatpost stopped slipping when i applied proper torque (i think at least 8 from memory?) I always use carbon grip paste & didnt have to be more creative than that.
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it's odd, typically the torque specs for seatposts of that nature are much higher. On my LT it says max 12nm on the clamp, and frame, seatpost & clamp systems look very very similar. The seatpost stopped slipping when i applied proper torque (i think at least 8 from memory?) I always use carbon grip paste & didnt have to be more creative than that.
I asked the seller and they said 5-6 Nm... They also have sent me a new seatpost clamp. It seems they have changed the design since I have ordered the frame. But it looks like it is coming via a very slow route, so I am still waiting for it. It was nice of them to send it though.
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it's odd, typically the torque specs for seatposts of that nature are much higher. On my LT it says max 12nm on the clamp, and frame, seatpost & clamp systems look very very similar. The seatpost stopped slipping when i applied proper torque (i think at least 8 from memory?) I always use carbon grip paste & didnt have to be more creative than that.
I torqued my seatpost to 4nm and it's good, but I'm pretty lightweight.
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I torqued my seatpost to 4nm and it's good, but I'm pretty lightweight.
Well, I am no heavyweight either with my 65kg...
Maybe the new clamp will make all the difference.
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I spent a day umming and ahhing over which colourway to go with and after seeing your bike, I bit the bullet and ordered the same. I think my build will be exactly the same as yours except for I've opted for mechanical ultegra as my goal was to keep total build under £1200 which seem pretty mental given current bike prices. My last build was a Supersix HM in 2018 so I'm keen to see how cheap Chinese bike frame compare to older high end stuff.
How is it holding up? Did you have any QC issues ( paint over spray, irregular or non concentric thru axle holes, seat post slipping?).
Also how does it ride? I get this is totally subjective but any feedback would be appreciated.
:)
Rides great, stiff and aggressive but decently compliant. I’ve just fitted new wheels with 30mm tyres which helps.
Holding up well to the Scottish roads and weather so far.
I’ve not had any issues with the seatpost slipping. My main issues have been eliminating play in the headset, I replaced the steered plug with one from Specialized and it seems much better. I’m also in the process of replacing a few of the bolts as the supplied ones are a bit soft and rust super quickly. A nice excuse to replace with some titanium.
I would say routing the cables for a mechanical groupset will be tricky. Di2 made for a very easy build.
It’s a great value frameset, no regrets from me so far.
(https://imgur.com/a/J3yoIOv)
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I'm going to give another update:
I could not shake the feeling that the frame was very unstable in the front... So I checked the headset once again and I could still feel movement in the upper part when applying the front brake and rocking the bike front to back. I tried to increase the tension by tightening the upper bolt, but the only result was that the headset expander came loose.
I than exchanged the expander by another type and this was enough to be able to increase tension and remove the play in the headset. I did a 155km ride yesterday with a lot of fast descends and now the bike is stable. So the play in the headset was the cause of that.
The seatpost stays put with the 6Nm and a double layer of cloth tape. Since I seem to be one of the few with this problem, I presume the new seatpost clamp does solve problems with slipping.
The seller contacted me again on Aliexpress after denying warranty on the handlebar. They have agreed to send me a new handlebar and this should be on its way.
So after some work and tinkering, everything with the frame seems to be OK and the seller is also honouring the warranty after some convincing. I am happy with the frame now.
And to respond to the previous poster: routing cable for mechanical shifting is pretty straightforward, but you have to use a routing kit. At first I was struggling with the rear derailleur cable but when I started using the routing kit is was very easy. I would recommend getting some rubber or plastic cable sleeves for where the cables exit the frame since none are included.
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I had to apply a good amount of grip paste to get the expander plug to prevent slipping. I torqued plug to 6nm and it's fine.
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I had to apply a good amount of grip paste to get the expander plug to prevent slipping. I torqued plug to 6nm and it's fine.
I had the same happen with my gravel bike, so I blame the crappy expander construction and not the frame. Lesson learned. From now on I'll use the better type of expander.
The "crappy"type of expander is also very prone to corrosion it seems. The springs were already very rusted on my Hygge.
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I received my Model S last Friday (I opted to pay a bit more to avoid taxes), making it a total of 18 days from the order placement, which is quite reasonable. Initially, I was informed there would be an additional 5-day wait due to opting for a color that was out of stock. Here are my first impressions:
The rear triangle and fork don't seem to be the stiffest. This makes me wonder, especially since I have two other Chinese bikes that I've somewhat retired – one being a 2016 HM66 Hongfu and the other a 2017 Workswell endurance bike. I'm considering doing a comparison video and sharing it here. My usual ride is a 2018 Cannondale HM, which is noticeably stiffer, but then again, it was significantly more expensive.
The paint job is exceptional; it's hard to find any faults. The handlebar has surpassed my expectations; it's plenty stiff. There are definitely some rough edges inside the frame. I haven't finished building it yet, but I can feel some rough work between the top down tube and the head tube. The bottom bracket went on smoothly, the only component I've fitted so far.
I'm still waiting on some parts and pondering over the groupset. My plan is to build it with an Ultegra 11-speed mechanical groupset, as I didn't want to invest too much and see this more as a budget build, aiming for around £1200. I'll likely use a mix of Ltwoo R9 shifters, Ultegra R8000 & R8100 components, Elite wheels, etc. I'm not entirely sold on Chinese groupsets just yet.
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I'm still waiting on some parts and pondering over the groupset. My plan is to build it with an Ultegra 11-speed mechanical groupset, as I didn't want to invest too much and see this more as a budget build, aiming for around £1200. I'll likely use a mix of Ltwoo R9 shifters, Ultegra R8000 & R8100 components, Elite wheels, etc. I'm not entirely sold on Chinese groupsets just yet.
I you want to go Ultegra 11-speed (like I did) I recommend you look for complete 2nd hand groupsets. There are a lot for sale and the prices and condition is very reasonable. You can even look on Ali for new (older) shimano groupsets. I have seen very good prices on those.
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Looks like page 24 is busted.
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Update on my handlebar issue... The seller did get back to me and acknowledged the paint problem and sent me a new handlebar. I received it today.
For reference: The 380/80 handlebar weighs 350gr (without additional hardware)
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Just checking back in to see everyone else's experience here. Strava tells me I have 3311km on my bike so far, issue free. I have changed the cockpit post bike fit as I needed 130mm on the stem. So far so good. I feel like I had great value for money with this build and wouldn't hesitate to buy another frame from these guys.
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@Wrighty, could you share your impressions of the carbon layup within the frame, as well as the stiffness of both the fork and rear triangle? I haven't assembled mine yet, and I'm debating whether to proceed or reconsider. I might be overly cautious, but I've noticed some flex in the fork (I'm 80kg, so not particularly heavy), and while I understand an axle will reinforce it, it's still a concern. Additionally, I've observed numerous sharp edges and creases within the frame, which doesn't inspire confidence.
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Finished my build and rode ~100km with it so far.
Having issues with headset play.
I've torqued the compression plug to 6nm with and without carbon paste. and the stem to 6nm as well but after one ride there is always some play.
Has anyone encountered this and was able to fix it?
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@Wrighty, could you share your impressions of the carbon layup within the frame, as well as the stiffness of both the fork and rear triangle? I haven't assembled mine yet, and I'm debating whether to proceed or reconsider. I might be overly cautious, but I've noticed some flex in the fork (I'm 80kg, so not particularly heavy), and while I understand an axle will reinforce it, it's still a concern. Additionally, I've observed numerous sharp edges and creases within the frame, which doesn't inspire confidence.
Hey so I don’t know if you’ve seen my posts in this thread earlier on but this frame is my first ever carbon frame on a bike so I literally have no reference to compare to sadly. What I can tell you is that when I started riding this bike I was around 115KG and today I am 96KG and the bike feels pretty stiff to me, especially the back end of it and bottom bracket.
The carbon layup isn’t bad, but isn’t outstanding either - it’s ok. There were some sharp bits inside especially in the rear triangle but for a frame that was £450 I wasn’t expecting much. Other than that issue free, I did have the seatpost slipping at the start and have to really tighten that thing down but it doesn’t move now.
Positive experience for me, I would love to ride an SL7 to compare but haven’t had the opportunity to ride anything else yet. My current plans are to keep riding this until I get bored or it breaks!
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@Wrighty, could you share your impressions of the carbon layup within the frame, as well as the stiffness of both the fork and rear triangle? I haven't assembled mine yet, and I'm debating whether to proceed or reconsider. I might be overly cautious, but I've noticed some flex in the fork (I'm 80kg, so not particularly heavy), and while I understand an axle will reinforce it, it's still a concern. Additionally, I've observed numerous sharp edges and creases within the frame, which doesn't inspire confidence.
Hello, mate. Very good power transmission. Very rigid. It's a stiff frame.
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Finished my build and rode ~100km with it so far.
Having issues with headset play.
I've torqued the compression plug to 6nm with and without carbon paste. and the stem to 6nm as well but after one ride there is always some play.
Has anyone encountered this and was able to fix it?
Aha, so I am not alone...
I too had / have problems with this. At first I tought the bike was just unstable or it was the narrow handlebar, but it seemed there was a small amount of play in the headset, especially at the top.
Could not get the expander to stay in the steerer tube, so exchanged it for another type and thought the problem was solved. Stability was very good...but only for 2 rides. The play came back again and the expander was pulled up again.
I have now torqued the expander to 9 Nm and the stem bolts to 5Nm so we'll see if that solves anything.
I have also noticed that the headset spacers / adapters that are included with my new (warranty) handlebar are metal and not plastic like the set I received with the frame. Which one do you have? Maybe the plastic causes some problems with compression / expansion which loosens the assembly....
Too bad I would have to remove all the cables to switch it, so no fast way to test this... Integrated cabling is so practical ;D
I have also noticed these headset assemblies (when bought separately on Ali) standard come with 2 different conical pieces that sit on top of the top bearing. One for integrated and one for non integrated setup. From what I can find it is the other pieces that is used when routing internally and not the one supplied with the handlebar.... Just speculations though...
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Hello, first post on the forum.
I have the hygge model s for about 3-4 months now, ridden about 3k kms.
The last bike I had was a velobuild so not my first Chinese frame.
I was Impressed with the frame quality not so much with the internal, not that I can spot an issue but it would be a great step up to make the frames with eps/latex.
The only issue I have encountered is as others have said is the top headset play. I removed the handlebar with the hoses attached, the spacers and the top bearing cover and I came to the conclusion that the top cover was slightly rubbing on the carbon lip of the bearing in the front. I filed/sanded the cover and checked that I could finally tighten it to have no play and fit a sheet of paper all around. It was no easy task with the four hoses in the headset assembly but I managed to make it work.
The test was a 400k brevet where the bike was flawless in all conditions(rain, wind, heat, cold, humidity).
The only "remaining" issue is a slight creaking from the rear wheel when climbing in the lowest gears 34-32 an 34-30 but I guess with a truing it will be ok as the wheel needs it(it has a bit of lateral run out).
Really happy overall for the price and quality, I would recommend it to anyone that likes to tinker a little bit with his/her bike and has a "good" mechanical understanding.
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I was Impressed with the frame quality not so much with the internal, not that I can spot an issue but it would be a great step up to make the frames with eps/latex.
The only issue I have encountered is as others have said is the top headset play. I removed the handlebar with the hoses attached, the spacers and the top bearing cover and I came to the conclusion that the top cover was slightly rubbing on the carbon lip of the bearing in the front. I filed/sanded the cover and checked that I could finally tighten it to have no play and fit a sheet of paper all around. It was no easy task with the four hoses in the headset assembly but I managed to make it work.
I also had this problem of the cover rubbing the frame. I slid the handlebar and spacers up as far as I could and took a small block of wood and sandpaper between the frame and the underside of the cover and sanded it like that. Not easy, no...
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Aha, so I am not alone...
I too had / have problems with this. At first I tought the bike was just unstable or it was the narrow handlebar, but it seemed there was a small amount of play in the headset, especially at the top.
Could not get the expander to stay in the steerer tube, so exchanged it for another type and thought the problem was solved. Stability was very good...but only for 2 rides. The play came back again and the expander was pulled up again.
I have now torqued the expander to 9 Nm and the stem bolts to 5Nm so we'll see if that solves anything.
I have also noticed that the headset spacers / adapters that are included with my new (warranty) handlebar are metal and not plastic like the set I received with the frame. Which one do you have? Maybe the plastic causes some problems with compression / expansion which loosens the assembly....
Too bad I would have to remove all the cables to switch it, so no fast way to test this... Integrated cabling is so practical ;D
I have also noticed these headset assemblies (when bought separately on Ali) standard come with 2 different conical pieces that sit on top of the top bearing. One for integrated and one for non integrated setup. From what I can find it is the other pieces that is used when routing internally and not the one supplied with the handlebar.... Just speculations though...
I have received the frame a week or so ago, which is less than a month from order to delivery which is pretty damn fast. I only did visual inspection then because the box was a little bit bent and beaten up but no issues whatsoever regarding damage of contents. Yesterday I did a "dry" assembly of the frame components only just so see how everything fits and can say that all seems fine. Bottom bracket screwed in as it should, RD hanger fits like it should, top headset bearing sits very good and there is no movement in the bearing seat of the frame, also the bottom bearing sits good but there is minimal next to no movement but I had that with my Cube frame and caused no issues, so my guess is that here also this won't be an issue. Spacers are metal and fit very good. The issue arises with the C ring. It sits very good on the bearing but there is movement between the inside of the C ring and the steerer tube of the fork. I did not tighten everything down since I did not cut the fork. My presumption is that this interface C ring/steerer tube is the source of the headset play everyone is experiencing. Is it normal for this interface to be so slack or should this be snug? Steerer tube measures 28.6mm as it should but the inside of the C ring is close to 29mm (28,8) I think of shimming this to eliminate the play. This is my first integrated headset that I have been working on.
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The issue arises with the C ring. It sits very good on the bearing but there is movement between the inside of the C ring and the steerer tube of the fork. I did not tighten everything down since I did not cut the fork. My presumption is that this interface C ring/steerer tube is the source of the headset play everyone is experiencing. Is it normal for this interface to be so slack or should this be snug? Steerer tube measures 28.6mm as it should but the inside of the C ring is close to 29mm (28.8). I think of shimming this to eliminate the play. This is my first integrated headset that I have been working on.
Nice find... The inside of the C-ring I have here is 29,1mm. But since it is open it might be possible to compress it a little bit with a vice...
I went ahead and ordered this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006475816268.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006475816268.html)
It has a totally different C-ring, so maybe that will help.
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Nice find... The inside of the C-ring I have here is 29,1mm. But since it is open it might be possible to compress it a little bit with a vice...
I went ahead and ordered this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006475816268.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006475816268.html)
It has a totally different C-ring, so maybe that will help.
Will definitely try to compress the C ring and maybe add some alu tape to the fork and see what that does. Thanks for the link, if I fail at modifying, I will order that part.
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Here is a picture that illustrates what I was trying to say. On the left is the setup for internal cabling and on the right for external. Hygge has supplied the right C-ring, so that might not be the ideal combination.
Judging from the picture it also looks like the C-ring (if you can call it that) for internal cables is higher. That could also explain the rubbing of the lower cap on the frame with the C-ring on the right. ...
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/Sed5e94b9578c4d32930cd68d227bac2eb.jpg)
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Here is a picture that illustrates what I was trying to say. On the left is the setup for internal cabling and on the right for external. Hygge has supplied the right C-ring, so that might not be the ideal combination.
Judging from the picture it also looks like the C-ring (if you can call it that) for internal cables is higher. That could also explain the rubbing of the lower cap on the frame with the C-ring on the right. ...
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/Sed5e94b9578c4d32930cd68d227bac2eb.jpg)
So they are supplying the wrong ring? Even if so, the ring provided should still hold the steerer tube snug to eliminate play. I have contacted them with this issue with a picture attached of the "starry" ring that is on the left column in the picture. Will see what the response will be.
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Lots of people have no play, so maybe it's just tolerances. Not saying one is wrong and one is right. I'm just going to try the other one and see if it helps.
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But then again: if it makes no difference, why are there 2 different ring supplied in the set in the picture? ???
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Re: Aluminum tape/foil sandwiched between fork and c-ring. It works in a pinch - I tried it on VB GF002 which had the infamous headset play issue like many other VB bikes. The play disappeared to an extent but it never felt *right*. The issue completely went away with new c-ring that VB sent after a year. The new ring has an extra cutout v/s old ring and is probably made of softer material too.
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The thing is i don't actually have any play after setting up the bike in my garage. The play starts to develop during the ride...i'm assuming after hitting some bumps/road cracks i would guess. I've re-tightened the topcap screw a little bit more and I will report back on my next ride. It seems like it was not very tight after my few initial ride.
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With me, the play is not very noticeable when not riding the bike. I have to press the front brake lever while sitting on my top tube (to keep the rear wheel from lifting from the ground) and rock the bike front and back. I can than see the headset cap move about 1mm relative to the frame
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With me, the play is not very noticeable when not riding the bike. I have to press the front brake lever while sitting on my top tube (to keep the rear wheel from lifting from the ground) and rock the bike front and back. I can than see the headset cap move about 1mm relative to the frame
Yes this is what i notice with mine too. Hold front break and rock the bike back and forth. There is a very minimal amount of play but enough to notice.
I just did a 30km ride after tightening the topcap to 4nm but the play still came back after the ride. :(
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Regarding the play issue which develops during the ride, would suggest you apply medium strength thread locker to the stem bolts. Screws prabably untightening due to road vibrations
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Did a 125km ride today and the play did not come back. So for now the 9Nm on the expander (higher than recommended) and the 5Nm on the stem bolt seems to hold.
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I have a brand new frame in size L that i'm not going to use. Anyone interested? Based in the Netherlands :)
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Did a 125km ride today and the play did not come back. So for now the 9Nm on the expander (higher than recommended) and the 5Nm on the stem bolt seems to hold.
I think i'll give it a try too, but i'm not sure that is what my problem is.
I did 6.5nm on the expander, and 6nm on the stem bolts and i still have some play after my ride.
But upon inspection it seems like my expander plug did not move, but just the stem maybe? I'm not sure if I should add some carbon paste on my stem. Anyone has suggestions?
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But upon inspection it seems like my expander plug did not move, but just the stem maybe? I'm not sure if I should add some carbon paste on my stem. Anyone has suggestions?
Yes you should use carbon paste on the stem/steerer tube interface.
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Been a while since I built up a bike... not done an internally routed one before. Seems fairly straight forward but just wanted to check especially with those who have successfully built one of these.
The bike came with two teflon cables already inside the frame ( white cables) one for rear brake and rear mech, but not front mech and not front brake. They are just about long enough so the ends protrude out of each end of the hole - what's the deal with these. Are they to use as guides or can I use them as cable housing? They're not long enough to reach the bars so i'm a bit confused here. I could extend with a bit of compression less housing but this doesn't sit right with me.
Will the bars allow 2 x cable housing internally on each side? The inside seems a bit tight using RISK compressionles housing.
The exit holes for the rear mech and rear brake has no grommet. Is this right? Just seems a bit cheap...
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Been a while since I built up a bike... not done an internally routed one before. Seems fairly straight forward but just wanted to check especially with those who have successfully built one of these.
The bike came with two teflon cables already inside the frame ( white cables) one for rear brake and rear mech, but not front mech and not front brake. They are just about long enough so the ends protrude out of each end of the hole - what's the deal with these. Are they to use as guides or can I use them as cable housing? They're not long enough to reach the bars so i'm a bit confused here. I could extend with a bit of compression less housing but this doesn't sit right with me.
Will the bars allow 2 x cable housing internally on each side? The inside seems a bit tight using RISK compressionles housing.
The exit holes for the rear mech and rear brake has no grommet. Is this right? Just seems a bit cheap...
Yes, the hoses are just guides. Do full external housing.
I did full mechanical so 4 cables is possible. No experience with Compressionless housing
And indeed, no grommets supplied. This is a shame.
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https://www.youtube.com/shorts/SIRHNtz9nvQ
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4) Computer mount, which comes with handlebar is flexy, and I'm afraid it might break on bumps. Here some video only with garmin edge 520
[...]
And with 200g bike light
[...]
So I'm looking for more rigid computer mount.
You should be fine!
I've got the same feeling, but for now it is working fine with computer + light (~6 months of use).
Trace Velo has tested it and recommends the Hygge support unlike others on Aliexpress:
https://youtu.be/FERc_xzoESg?si=hbN-qjnUTMXCcVKx&t=102
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Soo guys, the whole headset discussion here is a bit bogged down. Unfortunately, there are a lot of people here and at Hygge who have no idea about mechanics or bikes, and half-knowledge is being thrown around ("have you tried tightening it really hard?", "what if you use threadlocker?" ...).
Here is my view:
1) Hygge (or the headset manufacturer) have been quite grossly negligent here. This is a faulty design. It is impossible to achieve a play-free fit with the stiff headset cone supplied! Ever since there have been ahead headsets, they have always been made with flexible compression rings:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Headset_%28bicycle_part%29
2) The cone only encloses the stem to a maximum of 270deg. When braking (abutment against the lower bearing) the fork stem is pressed forwards into the opening, which is mechanically very unfavourable.
3) It is nonsense to hope that the cone supplied by Hygge can be free of play with a lot of torque on the compression bolt, loctite, high clamping torque on the stem, ....
4) Tolerances can of course play a role, but the steerer tube and taper are not designed as a press fit. A conical, flexible compression ring is required here!
Possible solutions:
- Find another suitable compression ring and replace it:
(Hygge told me that they could send me the much higher plastic ring, but that this would leave a huge gap (3mm?) between the frame and the headset cap).
I have found another cone and will explain how to install it in another post.
- Replace the entire upper headset unit:
But then you might have to rethink the connection (dovetail) to the cockpit.
Maybe this + a 3D-printed interface?
https://ritcheylogic.com/bike/headsets/Switch-upper-headset
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I ordered and customised this compression ring on Aliexpress. The headset is now 100% free of play (without any torque struggles, just as it's meant to be and ever was on any bike). It seems to be the Specialized design. I hope that it is also a bit gentler for the steerer tube.
referring to the video by henrychungfitness:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/SIRHNtz9nvQ
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805803796644.html
I had to widen the two openings a little so that the Shimano brake cables would fit through.
I cut off the outer plastic ring on the headset cap so that it doesn't rub on the frame.
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I ordered and customised this compression ring on Aliexpress. The headset is now 100% free of play (without any torque struggles, just as it's meant to be and ever was on any bike). It seems to be the Specialized design. I hope that it is also a bit gentler for the steerer tube.
referring to the video by henrychungfitness:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805803796644.html
I had to widen the two openings a little so that the Shimano brake cables would fit through.
I cut off the outer plastic ring on the headset cap so that it doesn't rub on the frame.
These are the types of posts that make this forum great. Thanks for sharing.