Here is a picture that illustrates what I was trying to say. On the left is the setup for internal cabling and on the right for external. Hygge has supplied the right C-ring, so that might not be  the ideal combination.
Judging from the picture it also looks like the C-ring (if you can call it that) for internal cables is higher. That could also explain the rubbing of the lower cap on the frame with the C-ring on the right. ...

So they are supplying the wrong ring? Even if so, the ring provided should still hold the steerer tube snug to eliminate play. I have contacted them with this issue with a picture attached of the "starry" ring that is on the left column in the picture. Will see what the response will be.

Aha, so I am not alone...
I too had / have problems with this. At first I tought the bike was just unstable or it was the narrow handlebar, but it seemed there was a small amount of play in the headset, especially at the top.
Could not get the expander to stay in the steerer tube, so exchanged it for another type and thought the problem was solved. Stability was very good...but only for 2 rides. The play came back again and the expander was pulled up again.
I have now torqued the expander to 9 Nm and the stem bolts to 5Nm so we'll see if that solves anything.
I have also noticed that the headset spacers / adapters that are included with my new (warranty) handlebar are metal and not plastic like the set I received with the frame. Which one do you have? Maybe the plastic causes some problems with compression / expansion which loosens the assembly....
Too bad I would have to remove all the cables to switch it, so no fast way to test this... Integrated cabling is so practical 
I have also noticed these headset assemblies (when bought separately on Ali) standard come with 2 different conical pieces that sit on top of the top bearing. One for integrated and one for non integrated setup. From what I can find it is the other pieces that is used when routing internally and not the one supplied with the handlebar.... Just speculations though...

I have received the frame a week or so ago, which is less than a month from order to delivery which is pretty damn fast. I only did visual inspection then because the box was a little bit bent and beaten up but no issues whatsoever regarding damage of contents. Yesterday I did a "dry" assembly of the frame components only just so see how everything fits and can say that all seems fine. Bottom bracket screwed in as it should, RD hanger fits like it should, top headset bearing sits very good and there is no movement in the bearing seat of the frame, also the bottom bearing sits good but there is minimal next to no movement but I had that with my Cube frame and caused no issues, so my guess is that here also this won't be an issue. Spacers are metal and fit very good. The issue arises with the C ring. It sits very good on the bearing but there is movement between the inside of the C ring and the steerer tube of the fork. I did not tighten everything down since I did not cut the fork. My presumption is that this interface C ring/steerer tube is the source of the headset play everyone is experiencing. Is it normal for this interface to be so slack or should this be snug? Steerer tube measures 28.6mm as it should but the inside of the C ring is close to 29mm (28,8) I think of shimming this to eliminate the play. This is my first integrated headset that I have been working on.   

Hi. I'm about to buy a pair of these Elite Superlight whells, promo ends at 28 march on ALiexpress. 65mm deep (weight 1495gr.), ceramic bearings, tubeless, inner width 21 outer width 28, shimano 11v.)

Link - https://pt.aliexpress.com/item/1005004767705476.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.0.0.2db023nV23nVkV&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2bra

1 - Can some one tell me whats the shape of these rims - U shape, V shape or mixed UV shape?

2 - They come with Pillar's Wing 20 spokes, are they aerodynamic?

3 - I'm from Portugal, what delivery options should i select to avoid VAT? I road some coments but i'm still a bit confused. I guess i shoul select "Sellers Shiping method" (more 75,98€)

This is lots of questions =) Would apreciate your coments! Thanks in advance

1. They are U shape, as most modern rim profiles are.

2. Pillar wing spokes are the same as Pillar 1420 spokes and are flat bladed lightweight aero spokes. They have less tensile strength than more beefy spokes but are reliable. My friend has 1420 on a set of wheels and has no issues 80kg body weight...

3. Contact the seller first about shipping option, but yes you should select Seller's shipping method to get DPD shipping with prepaid tax.

Bonus tip: don't forget to use the discount codes to get extra discount. At best you will get 80 eur off.

I ordered the same wheels but still not shipped. I guess 65mm is not very popular and they do not have them in stock.

Happy riding!

Offbondage for me. Had 4 sets of ThinkRider and all failed at the valve stem/tube interface. When you compare the Offbondage to ThinkRider at the point of failure, the Offbondage is manufactured much superior and that involves multiple layers or boundaries of ultrasonic welding to assure airtight fit. They had a sale and were 8.5 Eur for a pair.

Hi all, I am new to this forum, and I am very appreciative that such thing exists to make information about this topic more reliable and easily accessible. I am yet to make purchase of this frame in the upcoming March anniversary sale. Almost all questions I had were answered in this thread, but I am left with the dilemma of sizing of the frame.

I am 175.5cm tall with 82cm inseam. This puts me in the bottom end of size M, but I am afraid that it will be too long and too tall for my posture, even more so given the 18mm offset of the seat post. My current setup is 385mm reach, 540mm stack, 100mm stem (slammed on top of the headset cover) and a 0 offset seat post. If I go with S size frame, the saddle will be pushed 8mm forward to achieve the same position (that is according to calculations based on my current setup) and will have -4mm of reach which is fine as I feel that the current 385mm is a little too long. Will have to use 30-35mm of spacers to get to the same stack height, although I feel I can go lower given the reduced reach. The stem length will remain the same, 100mm. Saddle height is 72.5cm.

This is all on paper in regard to mu current bike, old Cube Agree Pro rim brake from 2012 (ancient, I know ), and I would greatly appreciate some real-world input about sizing.

Thanks to all in advance!