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Re: Groupset Stock (or lack of!)
Anybody else used the 007Bike Store on Ali? Link below to Ultegra sets they have seems too good to be true (like a lot of stuff on Ali I guess). They have generally good reviews but slightly confused by the callipers and discs in this set not being the Shimano ones I'd expect? I'm thinking about this listing too. Did you buy it? I'm wondering if these PRO calipers and rotors are good enough. February 28, 2021, 06:00:48 PM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-186
For anyone else who doesn't know, I just realized that the R-168 has identical geometry to the SL7. https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=5f207b42a38eb600178e639e%2C604d98c2d7c8240017c37233%2C March 30, 2021, 02:58:16 PM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
Here's my build! Just a plain black matte because I was already over budget with the 105 R7020 groupset  It's my first ever build but because of all the redos from self-inflicted errors it feels like I've built three bikes already. Rides great (especially compared to the commuter bike it replaced) though I think the headset bearings are loose. Great resources: - All of you here - Niels and his blog: https://roadmeister.cc - Free To Cycle YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCyyUYmKcskySTZh6Cf2blhg - GCN & Park Tool YouTube videos. Chris + Velobuild were great at being responsive and answering questions (pre & post sale), but there were a few issues: - I think we'd all appreciate timeline transparency and realistic estimates. Waiting for months is a part of the process, but they don't have to obscure what's going on. - My VB wheels ruptured dangerously. I've since purchased ICAN wheels. - Chris & VB have gone radio silent after my VB wheels ruptured. - The weight of the frame was incorrect. For a size 52/S, it's actually 1100g for the frame, 473g for the fork, and 244g for the seat post. They had said: "Frame 168 M about 1000g ,fork 400g ,seat post 180g ." June 23, 2021, 12:19:21 PM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
Could you elaborate on the issues you faced when building it up? I haven't ridden it enough (no 50+ milers yet) to tell you confidently that I did the sizing right. I commented a few posts ago, but I'm 173cm / 81cm. I'm pretty certain that going with a 52 (S) was the right choice. The effective top tube length is more like a 53 anyway. I was previously riding a size 56 (hand-me-down from a friend) 27lbs 3-speed commuter bike so there's a very low bar to feeling happy with the fit of this bike. My concern was mainly that the 56 has never felt too uncomfortable so dropping two sizes might cause more problems than it's worth (don't fix what isn't broken). I chose 420/110 as the bar/bracket length primarily because that was the measurement of my commuter bike. But, that isn't a very sound way to make the decision when you're dropping two sizes. First, I figured I should keep the bracket long (110mm+) given that the top tube (TT) is shortening. Also, since the TT is shortening, I considered narrower bars to achieve the equivalent shoulder-width position. Unfortunately, since there isn't a 400/110, the 420/110 was still my best bet. I also got a 165mm crank arm instead of the usual 172.5mm+. I'm more of a runner than a cyclist and after hard runs my knees would be extra sensitive to the lever action of cycling. I'm hoping this works out. As for my self-inflicted issues: - I got the wrong size barb for my hydraulic hoses (I asked for barbs and my LBS gave me some without asking about sizing) which made insertion super difficult. Eventually, I had to replace my hoses, barbs (BH90), and olives to do it right. - I didn't know that shift cables needed special housing even with internal cabling. After my build, I realized the rear shifting wasn't going to work right, and I had to do the cabling over. - I bled the rear brakes incorrectly. You need to make sure the bike is rotated upwards to compensate for the bottom-bracket being the natural lowest point on the bike. That way, air bubbles can propagate upwards without hindrance. - I bled the front brakes incorrectly so they're mushy. I need to redo it once I get more fluid. I'm not brave enough to use J&J mineral oil from the supermarket. - I squeezed the brakes (to test the feel) after bleeding the brakes (but before adding the rotors) which gets the pistons stuck in the closed position. It's a simple fix, but for a while I thought I had made a serious error. - It took me a while to focus on indexing the rear derailleur rather than the futile process of maxing out the H/L limit screws. - I didn't realize that the chain will inevitably rub against the 105 front derailleur skid plates. It was clearly impossible to avoid the rubbing, but everything I had read assumed the absence of skid plates and assured me there should be no contact when adjusted correctly. That's just off the top of my head
June 23, 2021, 02:51:37 PM |
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Re: various questions about custom build vs brand road bike (cost, issues, warranty)
#1 As a first-time bike builder, my experience closely matches Schumo's. Bike was ~$2500 USD in parts & shipping: * $560 for VB-R-186 from Velobuild (similar to SL7) * $615 for 55mm ICAN wheelset off Amazon * $1000 for Shimano R7020 groupset off Aliexpress * $150 for tubeless tires (Goodyear Eagle F1 Tubeless) * ~$200 pedals + saddle + bottle cages + wheels mfg BB + accessories Tools were another $250: bike stand, torque wrench, brake bleed kit, wheels mfg BB wrench, cassette removal tool, barb press, chain tool, tubeless tape & sealant. All-in-all, you should plan for roughly a $3k spend for R7020. I thought about upgrading to Ultegra/R8020, and that's simply another $500 from what I saw on Aliexpress. It's a matter of perspective, but your savings from doing it yourself (valuing your own time at $0/hr) range from minor to maybe $1,000 (valuing warranties at $0). To be fair, I first thought about building my own bike 7 years ago, and at the time, it seemed common knowledge that building wasn't economical; the recent shortage has helped if anything. The learning experience was super rewarding, which was my primary motivation. I also figured I could amortize some of the tool costs and learning costs since my wife needs a new road bike too. #2 My warranty request for my first wheelset from Velobuild that ruptured doesn't seem to be doing well. You should probably only undertake this endeavor if you won't be upset by flimsy warranties and setbacks that cost you extra money and time. #3 Easy to do it yourself. Get a hose clamp (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XAK76Y0?th=1) to help yourself cut straight and a small hacksaw. Don't breathe in the dust. July 01, 2021, 08:42:18 PM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
Another question about the FD routing, did you route the cable above the bottom bracket or under and back up? There's no routing guides for this like I've seen on other frames. I routed above it. July 02, 2021, 11:16:41 AM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
Looking to build another R-168. Have a few questions for all the people who've recently done it (my finished build is on page 12). - How long does it take from order to shipping for the R-168 these days? I ordered early last year before it got super backed up. - Are people still using the Wheels MFG BB86/92? Is there a cheaper solution that's still better than pressfit? - I'm 5'8" and am really happy I got the 52cm. Next bike is for my wife who is 5'5". I'm thinking to get a 52cm again, but wondering if anyone has any thoughts about the 49cm (SL7 sizing chart would still recommend 52cm). - How's the new integrated handlebar? Does it regress in any way? Once I figured out the old one, it's been smooth sailing, and I actually prefer the lack of exposed bolts. - I got matte last time, but plan to get that awesome blue paint job that @zdrenka89 and @memebike have. Is there anything to watch out for? - Non-VB wise, I got a 25mm width wheelset (ICAN) last time for 28mm tubeless tires. Was that wrong? Should I have instead bought a 23mm width wheelset? April 16, 2022, 10:37:57 PM |
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Velobuild VB-R-218
Just saw a new R-218 listed on VB and didn't see it mentioned here yet. Anyone know whether this mimics an existing geometry? http://www.velobuild.com/products/http-wwwvelobuildcom-products-http-wwwvelobuildcom-products-2021-vb-r-218-carbon-fiber-road-frame-disc-version-integrated-hidden-cables-345 April 17, 2022, 01:15:42 AM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
And they still haven't refunded me for the missing bottle cages (the least of my worries at this point). I didn't get a refund on my missing bottle cages until I ordered a second frame a year later and asked for a credit. Good luck
April 21, 2022, 12:22:27 AM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
Almost done with a new VB-186, but while working on the rear derailleur, I realized that instead of shifter cable housing I used brake cable housing. Anyone done this before? Is it no big deal or should I redo all my cabling?
June 05, 2022, 06:19:32 PM |
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