I don't have the Stan's tool, so I'm just using whatever pliers are close at hand.  I guess I need to cut a ~3 mm slot (or whatever it is) in an Ikea wrench.

Or get the thing that actually makes it easy for $9.

IIRC it's 4.5mm - before I got the Stan's tool I used a 4.5mm combination wrench, but that was still slow and fiddly.

My older set is gouged up a bit; I may be over tightening them when I put them back in, but I sure don't want the stem to work its way out.

Older set of valves? Spend the $10 and replace when they need it.

I just saw this and am fairly impressed.  MilKit has taken a hard look at the tubeless mountain bike tire and how to best manage adding sealant.   They say the system is available in the US through Amazon.

Sweet merciful crap. $55.

I've actually tried almost exactly this with an $8 baster syringe very similar to this one.

I've found an old spoke to be excellent for checking sealant level, pull the valve core and use the threaded end as a dipstick. Barely have to do that, as I can get a pretty good idea of how much sealant is left by just shaking the tire.

"The Milkit valves keep the air inside, even without the valve core..." Uh. Okay. So how do you bleed down tire pressure? Or, for that matter, how would you even _measure_ tire pressure?

"...which makes fast inflation easier." No, it introduces some sort of flow restriction. I've had tires which wouldn't seat when the valve was installed but seated fine when I shot air in without the valve body in the way. I've got a blow gun I modified with a hose to a silca pump head which I use for seating tires because it delivers more air faster than a conventional inflator.

Cool that it uses the trapped air pressure to push out the sealant, I'll give it that, but I was able to accomplish the same by drawing up the basting syringe. Plus, such a skinny tube could clog very easily.

They show the guy refilling the syringe by drawing off the top of a filled Stan's scoop - so all the particles would be settled to the bottom and you'd just be injecting liquid sealant and reducing the sealing capability of the sealant for bigger holes.

Most definitely wouldn't work with the new Stan's race sealant. The "particles" are flat plastic strips about 1x5mm, and I have verified their claim that you can't shoot it through a valve body. Clogs that right up. I wonder how well even lightly clumped particles in the normal Stan's sealant would go through the injector body.

For filling, I still find the 2oz container of Stan's shot through the valve body (core removed) to be by far the best/easiest solution. Even the Stan's sealant injector was a disappointment.

Would be interested to hear the opinion of someone who has it/tried it, but I remain unconvinced this solves any problem that doesn't already have a cheaper solution.

Are the valve cores easier to remove?  They didn't mention that so maybe not.  My biggest complaint with the Stan's valves is that the cores can be a pain to remove and replace. 

Harder than other valves? It's the same type of valve, and it's the same valve core as others. Haven't found any issues with the Stan's valves when using the Stan's valve core remover, so not sure what issues you're running into.

For me at least, I am not slower overall on the plus tires, and that's on a bike the weighs significantly more than my other bikes.  I feel that plus tires will become the norm and anything less than 2.4" will be "old school" tires, kinda like 26" wheels.

As you know, I have decided to sell my -057 and plan on using some of that money to purchase a set of 27.5" carbon wheels and 2.8" tires for my -036.

Yeah, I heard the same about fat bikes, too. If plus size tires were so great everywhere, curious why it's not showing up in World Cup XCO racing.

Love my trail bike, "big" 2.4" tires and long suspension, but going back to the agressive XC ride of the Epic with 29x2.0" tires... there's just something awesome about that.

But hey, nothing solves all problems, and whatever gets folks on bikes and enjoying themselves - that's the important part.

Quote from: trekcarbonboy on May 24, 2016, 10:52:04 AM

I was doing a little maintenance last night in preparation for a trip and discovered that my SP7 seatpost has come loose at the top. The bonding of the carbon to aluminum has failed.  It's only moving a little right now but I suspect it wont take much for it to get worse. This seems to be a fatigue failure because I have had no crash to speak of. If Peter will warranty it I will be going with the SP6 to avoid any such problem in the future.

On a brighter note: I just replaced the tires, cassette, chainrings and chain. I went with 2.35 Maxxis IKON's and they fit the frame no problem. I hope I like them cause they where damn expensive. 

I had the same on my seatpost (aliexpress version). Glued it and it holds for more than a year now. http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,184.msg2838.html#msg2838

Way back in the day I had a Slingshot frame (still have the frame) which needed a long 31.6mm post. At that point, the only options which were available were crazy expensive, especially since I was working at a bike shop at the time and getting paid very close to nothing. All I had on hand was 27.2 and 26.8mm posts. A Specialized Allez carbon was brought in for warranty work. Happened to notice the OD of the bike's down tube was 31.6mm, and the ID matched a post I had on hand. Cut the post down to about 2", sanded the finish off, then epoxied it in place to the end of the down tube, turning the small aluminum post into a long carbon post. I still have that seat post!

So yeah, you can definitely epoxy that thing back together.

Nice choice of color!

+2 on that. Looks reminiscent of the old SID Blue. Always liked that color, had repainted my Karate Monkey from poo brown to almost that exact color.

I've seen enough mentions of broken handlebars on here that the combo of a 225lb rider and a chinese bar/stem combo kinda terrifies me.

Bars from reputable sellers like Peter have broken (see my comment on xcbarny's link above) and a $42 set of no-name bars on aliexpress... *shivers*

The only name brand I could find that does integrated bars and stems is Ritchey. None of the others seem to do it - no idea if it's because it locks in your geometry and allows no customization, or if there are any other reasons that the big names don't do it... but they don't. Even the weight weenie parts on Fairwheel Bikes doesn't have any integrated, and that's where I'd expect it the most - the niche builders of the superlightweight stuff.

So yeah, I'd suggest a huge amount of caution.

Glad to see this place is doing well. Joined 2 years ago near launch and impressed with some of the beautiful builds and info here.
Rather than bumping my original build thread for a single pic figure Id add it to this thread.

HAHAHAHAHA... nice work with the King Slayer name. I like it.

Curious if the new Stan's race formula would have sealed that larger hole. Got some and started testing it.

http://www.notubes.com/Stans-Race-Sealant-Quart-P1977.aspx