Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: Snacks on December 29, 2020, 04:37:06 PM
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Got my frame a few weeks ago but was having soo much fun riding it after i finished the build I got lazy with starting this thread :P
Heres the finished product!
55mm carbon wheels
shimano 105 R7020 groupset
Selle Aspide saddle
Supacaz super sticky kush galaxy bar tape
conti tubes and tires
*btw i know the saddle is a tilted a bit up in these pics. i angled it down before riding :)
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got the build on video , ill take some pics while i edit it to add to the thread
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Looks great, thanks for posting these! Looking forward to seeing the video.
52-36 rings? What cassette are you running?
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Yup, 52-36 crank and an 11-32 cassette since it's a bit hilly around me
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It looks so neat !
How was the cable/hoses routing ?
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Thanks man!
Guiding them through the frame was pretty easy all the way up to the head tube. The hard part was getting those through the handlebars. I could get either shifter cable or brake hoses through but not both because the handlebar has two 90 degree bends to pass them through. I was also trying to avoid purchasing the park tool cable routing kit since it's around $70 for just cables and magnets. I gave in after a few hours of unsuccessful attempts and purchased the kit . it made the whole thing a ton easier . Got it done in about 10-15min after that.
Now to convince my friends to get internally routed frames so I can use this kit a bit more ;D
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If one day you loose your cables and magnets, the ZTTO is fine too ;)
https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0LFPmt
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i actually tried that one first since it was considerably cheaper but it doesnt work as well unfortunately . the hydraulic hose fitting can only be connected to the short cable with the magnet and the magnets arent strong enough to bend hydraulic cable housing through the frame or handlebars. As soon as you try pulling the hose around any bend the magnets just come apart. thats why i had to use the park tool version.
i did find ztto on facebook, or at least i think its the company, and let them know that it doesnt really work. so hopefully they release a version where the hydraulic hose fitting can be connected to the longer cable
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You're right, when things gets tough I use a very clever little end cable that screws into the hose.
I received a pair with a Campagnolo road hydro/groupset and keep them well stored.
You can then pass a shifter cable through it, that stays aligned with the hose.
Drive the cable through the frame.
And pull the hose, even with force.
Does the parktool kit use magnets as well?
That are strong enough?
My initial question was about the handlebar/stem/headset routing.
I'm not sure I look forward to my first time build :D
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what you're describing kind of sounds like what i used form the park tool kit.
one of the four cables it has is a long cable with a magnet on one end and a metal fitting that you can screw into shifter housing or the hydraulic hose on the other end.
so i pulled the magnet side through the handlebars first and then screwed the other side into the housing/hose and pulled them through using the cable. it did require a bit of force around the bends but wasnt too much trouble.
Honestly, reading other people stories and trying it with the ztto kit / other methods made the whole thing a bigger headache than it had to be. it really wasnt that bad with the right tool and it sounds like you already have something similar if not exactly the same so shouldnt be much trouble
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on another note, i cant decide if i should throw some 650b wheels with some bigger tires on this frame for some gravel riding and then build up and mtb or just build up a gravel bike next
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Hi, that's a nice build. I'm new to the forum and have been considering a similar roadie build as I've physically outgrown my 17inch 08 mtb commuter. If you don't mind sharing, what was the overall cost for the project minus the group-set? Does the frame seem fairly stiff/durable? I'm a fairly heavy rider at 90kg and with multiple off saddle climbs/sprints on my commute, I've been slightly concerned with frame strength as I have not been able to test ride a budget carbon frame.
Any and all thoughts are appreciated.
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Hey thanks!
The cost minus the groupset was about $1000. Although I got the wheels while they were on sale on 11/11.
I was actually worried about the same since I'm at 230lbs, I think that's around 104kg. I was assured by both velobuild and csc that it would be fine. There are a lot of hills in my area so I've had more than a few off saddle climbs and so far no issues. No power meter yet so I don't really know if I'm putting the same power to the bb as I did on my steel bike but I am going a hell of a lot faster.
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Thanks for the response. That's just the testimony I'm looking for.
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Hey,
I also just ordered one of these frames and am in the process of collecting all the parts for it when it arrives. Can you tell me what size rotors the frame can accommodate? a bunch of chinese frames seem to be 140/140 but I can't tell from your photos.
Thanks!
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right out of the box the frame supports 160mm front and 140mm back but you can run 160mm at the back with an adapter
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The Velo Build VB-R-099 would be my choice at the moment...or at least i thought so! They now have a VB-R-168 and VB-R-177 for sale. Both say that they are fully integrated with handlebars, but the pictures show a hole in the top of the fork.
The VB-R-177 must be very new as it's not yet available... looks very light too - 920g for a size M, 32mm tyres, 160mm rotors, 27.2mm seatpost. Could be the one when i can get enough money together!
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oh yea i just checked those out and saw that hole. hopefully thats just on the design and doesnt make its way to the final product. i was thinking about waiting for the r-168 but was too impatient haha although my buddy wants my bike so i may just have to build another one ;D
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The Velo Build VB-R-099 would be my choice at the moment...or at least i thought so! They now have a VB-R-168 and VB-R-177 for sale. Both say that they are fully integrated with handlebars, but the pictures show a hole in the top of the fork.
The VB-R-177 must be very new as it's not yet available... looks very light too - 920g for a size M, 32mm tyres, 160mm rotors, 27.2mm seatpost. Could be the one when i can get enough money together!
I like the VB-R-177, is very nice allrounder
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Hello
i decided for the VB-R-168,
waiting for painting and delivery
keep you posted
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Hello
i decided for the VB-R-168,
What are you going to use for the bottom bracket? Are you going threaded or press fit?
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press fit
sram dub
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Get the right tool for the press-fit SRAM DUB.
I try to use a DIY tool and the internal plastic cylinder cracked.
The bearings are lined up and the crank works well.
I just regret not ordering an Aliexpress install tool.
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thanks for your hint,
still looking for a tool, this is my favorit, like the two wings on each side for turning
https://www.bike-discount.de/de/radon-pro-innenlager-einpresswerkzeug-press-fit
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I bought this one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000550465559.html. No complaints -- have only used it for headset cups so far, though.
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https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33012245392.html
this looks good
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I'm not sure whats better
turn on one side or one both sides,
turning on both sides, seems to me to but a more constant pressure on the bracket, but maybe more risk for wedging
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I have seen people like Hambini press the drive side first.
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I'm not sure whats better
turn on one side or one both sides,
turning on both sides, seems to me to but a more constant pressure on the bracket, but maybe more risk for wedging
I used a home made press tool and it works fine. Just make sure your washers are the right size.
One thing I'd suggest is spending the money on a thread together or thread lock BB . They have really helped provide better alignment for the spindle and the cranks seems to spin smoother now thats I've swapped. I'm not sure if ztto makes one for sram dub but wheels mfg does.
Also, I would suggest to press one side in first then line up the other side and press that in. Or of you get a thread together BB just use the tool to screw it in
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Unfortunately, Wheels MFG doesn't make a thread together press fit for Sram DUB, one that fits a BB86/92 bottom bracket anyway. Here's what they offer.
https://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/bb86-92/bb86-to-29mm-dub-compatible-kit-for-pressfit-86-92-bottom-bracket-with-flanged-dual-row-black-oxide-sealed-bearings.html
They have an upgraded version of the same set-up for $137. It's a shame, but I'm converting over to a power meter that requires Sram DUB, so I'm switching out my Wheels MFG threaded press fit for this Wheels MFG Sram DUB set up. Should have that completed in time for a weekend ride, so I'll let you know how it goes.
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ahh yea my bad, i just realized that the one i saw was too narrow. possibly thats for an MTB frame.
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ahh yea my bad, i just realized that the one i saw was too narrow. possibly thats for an MTB frame.
No worries, sorting through all the standards, then who makes which standard in which flavor is dizzying.
I did complete the install of both the new Wheels MFG SRAM DUB BB86/92 bottom bracket and the new power meter on my Tantan X21. Pretty straighforward, no issues whatsoever with either install. Had some minor front derailleur adjustmens that amounted to a couple of turns on upper and lower limit screws. I had two decent rides over the weekend and no issues on the road.
Considering that the VB-099 and the X21 are pretty much clones of each other, i'd imagine the BB set up would work on the VB-099 for anybody looking for a SRAM DUB crankset.
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My VeloBuild arrived last week and I just got it built up. Its great, the construction seems really good. everything was precise and in the right places. There were definitely a couple little details that had been overlooked. For example, it would have been really helpful to have a shift cable race under the bottom bracket but instead it was just a hole. Which means that you have to remove the BB to replace the front shift cable. But this is at the end of the day a little thing. Overall, really good experience. Excited to get a sense of how it rides after getting a couple 100 miles on it.
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awesome bike, congratulations
and also cool flat :)
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ohh very nice bike! hope you'll have as much fun riding that as i have had with mine
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Hi
Did anyone here had problems with a play in the headset?
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Hi
Did anyone here had problems with a play in the headset?
1) Check your steerer tube length. You may not have left enough space to compress the headset.
2) Check your compression ring to make sure it's seated properly.
3) Check your compression plug to see if it's slipping.
4) If you're locking up your steering but still getting play in your headset, check to see if you have too much space between your top cover and compression ring.
For 1, I just used a spacer above the stem. For 2, the compression ring was seating fine most of the time, but it was frustrating enough that I got a new headset with a different compression ring. For 3, I had to use a different compression plug.
When all those were taken care of, I started locking up the steering trying to tighten the headset, so it was progress at least. My LBS sold me some spacers that sit above the compression ring. That finally did the trick.
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My VeloBuild arrived last week and I just got it built up. Its great, the construction seems really good. everything was precise and in the right places. There were definitely a couple little details that had been overlooked. For example, it would have been really helpful to have a shift cable race under the bottom bracket but instead it was just a hole. Which means that you have to remove the BB to replace the front shift cable. But this is at the end of the day a little thing. Overall, really good experience. Excited to get a sense of how it rides after getting a couple 100 miles on it.
Nice bike! Did they paint the seatpost for you? Didn't know that was possible.
I'm currently working on my R-099. My very first project without any experience. But so far lot's of fun!
See: https://roadmeister.cc for the progress.
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Nice bike! Did they paint the seatpost for you? Didn't know that was possible.
I'm currently working on my R-099. My very first project without any experience. But so far lot's of fun!
See: https://roadmeister.cc for the progress.
Yeah, I saw an example on the site and thought it looked good so I just asked and they were able to do it. I they could have done the bars too but I liked them black.
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My VeloBuild arrived last week and I just got it built up. Its great, the construction seems really good. everything was precise and in the right places. There were definitely a couple little details that had been overlooked. For example, it would have been really helpful to have a shift cable race under the bottom bracket but instead it was just a hole. Which means that you have to remove the BB to replace the front shift cable. But this is at the end of the day a little thing. Overall, really good experience. Excited to get a sense of how it rides after getting a couple 100 miles on it.
Great looking build. How does it ride so far?
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Project finished! Did a quick 25km test ride today and my first impression was absolutely great. Will update on my experience again when I've done some more rides.
See https://roadmeister.cc (https://roadmeister.cc) for more info.
(https://roadmeister.cc/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/roadmeister-e1616345507667.jpg)
See https://roadmeister.cc (https://roadmeister.cc) for more info.
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Great looking build. How does it ride so far?
Rides reallyyy well. Still fiddling with the disc rotor alignment and derailleur indexing a little but that is to be expected. Teething. Only thing that has sucked are those TT pro tyres. Two punctures in 100mi??
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Wow, I love your website
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Rides reallyyy well. Still fiddling with the disc rotor alignment and derailleur indexing a little but that is to be expected. Teething. Only thing that has sucked are those TT pro tyres. Two punctures in 100mi??
Awesome and it sounds like it's time for tubeless!
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Project finished! Did a quick 25km test ride today and my first impression was absolutely great. Will update on my experience again when I've done some more rides.
See https://roadmeister.cc (https://roadmeister.cc) for more info.
(https://roadmeister.cc/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/roadmeister-e1616345507667.jpg)
See https://roadmeister.cc (https://roadmeister.cc) for more info.
Are you planning on posting any more build videos!
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Awesome and it sounds like it's time for tubeless!
They were!!! SMDH
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They were!!! SMDH
wow!
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After a couple of weeks considering frame size and talking to Chris I’ve ordered the frame today. It’s my first total build (I’ve stripped some frames for most of it’s parts before), so I’m excited.
There has been some weird communication from Chris- like last week he said the shipping was 84 usd (the same as stated on their website), but yesterday he told me EMS haven’t been shipping to Norway (or that they ship but it has gotten way to expensive) so I have to pay extra for HK ems. Per now I’ve only paid for “normal” EMS, so let’s see what happens.
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I'm not sure about the pricing but I've paid for hk ems for everything I've ordered from Chris. First frame took 3 weeks and second one took 1 week to get to California. So it was definitely worth it here.
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I'm looking for a new project. Any recommendations for a light chinese road bike frame which is suitable for climbing the mountains?
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I'm looking for a new project. Any recommendations for a light chinese road bike frame which is suitable for climbing the mountains?
I'm assuming you've considered the VB 177 frame?
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Started building the bike today!!
I just cut the steerer tube, and now I noticed this inside the fork. Is it normal?
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May be residue from the bag they used to mold it, not sure though.
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Id be fine with a few loose strands but that seems like a lot. I ld email Chris and see what he says. Hopefully someone else can chime in with a more exact answer
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Has anyone else noticed headset creak? My headset has developed a creak when I sprint and I’m worried that the bearings are seated correctly or that the carbon is deforming. Anyone else with this frame had that issue? I am going to email velobuild to see if they know anything.
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First of all make sure your headest is properly adjusted. I find it easiest to turn your wheel 90 degrees and hold the front brake. Rock the bike forwards and backwards and there should be no movement from the fork/headset interface.
Secondly make sure all contact surfaces are well greased. Bearings in the frame. Between the bearings and the fork. Between the handlbar and the fork. Between the fork and the axle and any ot her contact surfaces.
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The outer plate that secures the derailleur hanger fell off the bike, been trying to contacr Velobuild to buy with no success, any difficulty talking to them lately?
Two questions, is it safe to ride without and is there a brand with the same outplate I can buy online that would fit?
There is a small vertical play when I put weight on the wheel.
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Oof that looks like a problem.
I just ordered an 099 yesterday and over the last few days they were very prompt in responding to e-mails. Usually got responses by 11pm-12am EST.
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You can try TanTan, just ask for a derailleur hanger for the TT X-21. I have my old one that I bent. That piece is fine though if you want to PM me.
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You can try TanTan, just ask for a derailleur hanger for the TT X-21. I have my old one that I bent. That piece is fine though if you want to PM me.
its not the hanger per see, but the plate that screws from the outside and fixes the hanger. If you have that I´d like to buy, that is if you can ship with Fedex/DHL
its this plate in the image
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Oof that looks like a problem.
I just ordered an 099 yesterday and over the last few days they were very prompt in responding to e-mails. Usually got responses by 11pm-12am EST.
I say ask for a spare hanger and the plate that fixes it from the outside of the frame.
Chris actually responded and I sent him the money but he did not confirm if he could send by DHL, its my only bike and it sucks to be stuck without it.
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Yeah, I know the piece you referring to. I don't know that it's sold separately from the hanger, but my replacement came with bothe pieces. Like I said, I have old bent hanger but the other piece is undamaged, if you just want to PM me.
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The outer plate that secures the derailleur hanger fell off the bike, been trying to contacr Velobuild to buy with no success, any difficulty talking to them lately?
Two questions, is it safe to ride without and is there a brand with the same outplate I can buy online that would fit?
There is a small vertical play when I put weight on the wheel.
I would keep trying VB over email or skype. They've been response to me as of late.
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I have it liter....
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I have it liter....
that's the one!!!! Will send you my address in PM
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For those who are interested, I've added an update on my experience with the VeloBuild (099) here:
https://roadmeister.cc/update-1000km/
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Great update Niels, thanks!
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update, they actually provided another number for the tracking, will receive by Friday.
They could have provided better support but I guess they simply can´t handle the volume of work
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Received my frame a few days ago. Ordered it August 16th and it arrived September 24th. I asked to be sent a picture of the frame painted before they shipped, but that never happened lol. They also didn't tell me they shipped it until I asked a few days before it arrived.
Paint is ok, for 50$. I sent them pantone colors and they're actually pretty good. There was a chip in the headtube cup (because of poor masking and overspray it looks like) on top that's kind of noticeable. Smaller issues pretty much wherever they had to mask an opening. Seat tube opening is also pretty marked up. The fork has some pretty hilariously bad drips that dried solid on top.
From the outside the carbon seems solid. No obvious issues, some sharp edges in side
Still haven't had a chance to ride it yet because building it up has been extremely difficult. The two lightcarbon MTBs I put together were super easy and smooth, this thing not so much. Because of the overspray the fork brake line opening had to be sanded a bunch to barely fit a housing through. The rear derailleur path had a bunch of loose foam and some carbon strands stuck inside that made feeding the housing in impossible until I noticed and was able to knock it out. Then the most difficult part is feeding the housing through the handlebar! The openings are tiny and 4 housings barely fit in there. It's super crowded and difficult to work with. Which leads the next problem I have now. After finally getting everything together, the semi-circle crown race thing that keeps the steerer tube centered seems to have popped off. Another problem with the handlebars is because of the tiny opening the housing comes out at an inconvenient angle and it's incredibly difficult to get the cables going to the right places in the headtube, and to get that crown race pressed down.
My handlebar problems haven't even ended yet either. The two bolts used for clamping are too short! Maybe if the handlebar was off the steerer it would be possible to compress it enough to get them threaded. I ended up buying some longer M5 bolts that are ugly but work. After some more days of struggling I should have it finished and I'll take some better pictures.
Also the headset compression plug they sent was cross threaded and doesn't work correctly. Luckily I had a leftover one I didn't use from my earlier builds.
(https://i.imgur.com/R6DPuel.jpeg)
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I like the paint scheme. Your own design? Gulf livery?
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Thanks! Yep, I like the gulf colors. Just stole the design from another bike I found on google images.
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Any idea what this geometry is similar to?
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Chris has already said.
099 Geometry based on Venge ;168 based on SL7
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https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/specialized-s-works-venge-2019-52,velobuild-2020-vb-r-099-2020-52,specialized-s-works-tarmac-sl7-2021-52,velobuild-vb-r-168-2021-52/
Very similar numbers. I choose the 099 because I liked the shorter reach + higher stack, slightly less aggressive than the Venge/SL7.
Finally got everything built up and it's ready to ride. I should have some early impressions this week. One more problem I noticed is my front tire has a slight wobble. The rim is true, but the gp5000tl isn't. It was super difficult to get on, maybe I stretched the casing a bit or it's not quite seated.
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One more problem I noticed is my front tire has a slight wobble. The rim is true, but the gp5000tl isn't. It was super difficult to get on, maybe I stretched the casing a bit or it's not quite seated.
I had the same issue on my TanTan TT-X21. To make a very long story short, check your fork/thru axel position. My LBS mechanic simply added a washer and solved the wobble issue. I have no idea how or why adding a washer fixed the problem, or, really, what the underlying issue is, but it worked.
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Did any of you guys have any issues with the top bearings sitting on the head tube during your builds? I noticed in all the videos that I saw, the top bearings was meant to be easily fitted on before the compress rings and head spaces.
I mock/dry fitted my frame today and had struggled with the top bearing, but eventually it did with some eventual force. This meant taking it off was so difficult, that I had to use a screw driver to push it out from the bottom and somehow pushed inner case with bearings out, instead of the outer casing which was still stick in the frame. Eventually with a longer screw driver, I was able to tap it out of the frame... :-X..
As far as I know, the top and bearings were the same size and it looks like the head tube of the frame is not as concentric as I didn't have the same issue with bottom bearings with the bottom of the head tube.
Now I have to search for another top bearing for the build to continue, so do guys have any suggestions? Thanks.
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It was a pretty tight fit for me, but I was able to press it in with just my hands/fingers.
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It was a pretty tight fit for me, but I was able to press it in with just my hands/fingers.
Thanks for that, maybe I'll just put some force onto it with my weak hands : ;)
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Bearing do come in sizes that are 0.1mm different. My generic headset used 52mm bearings. The top bearing was super tight and I broke it the same way you did :-) Then I bought a Ritchey headset and the bearings were 51.8/51.9 (top/bottom). They slid right in.
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Bearing do come in sizes that are 0.1mm different. My generic headset used 52mm bearings. The top bearing was super tight and I broke it the same way you did :-) Then I bought a Ritchey headset and the bearings were 51.8/51.9 (top/bottom). They slid right in.
So I guess I wasn't the only one that had issues with my top bearings, so I feel much better now.. :D. I'm guessing you have the same frame and ended up buying the new headset, were the inner and outer angles 45/45 degrees or 36/45 ?
I'm looking to buy new headset bearings from here https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32991982476.html?algo_exp_id=be3dbb5a-973b-4573-97d0-1c621e580a8e-0&algo_pvid=be3dbb5a-973b-4573-97d0-1c621e580a8e&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2266880025677%22%7D&spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.7993450btvj3Pz&af=1011943&afref=&cv=47843&dp=4e67870165b5b1c932cb60b098189d7f&mall_affr=pr3&utm_campaign=1011943&utm_content=47843&utm_medium=cpa&utm_source=admitad&aff_fcid=6617341363a041c29cf8107688ac888e-1635715984986-06277-_ePNSNV&aff_fsk=_ePNSNV&aff_platform=portals-tool&sk=_ePNSNV&aff_trace_key=6617341363a041c29cf8107688ac888e-1635715984986-06277-_ePNSNV&terminal_id=0de686744d79417dba06dd96895df1f7 (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32991982476.html?algo_exp_id=be3dbb5a-973b-4573-97d0-1c621e580a8e-0&algo_pvid=be3dbb5a-973b-4573-97d0-1c621e580a8e&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2266880025677%22%7D&spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.7993450btvj3Pz&af=1011943&afref=&cv=47843&dp=4e67870165b5b1c932cb60b098189d7f&mall_affr=pr3&utm_campaign=1011943&utm_content=47843&utm_medium=cpa&utm_source=admitad&aff_fcid=6617341363a041c29cf8107688ac888e-1635715984986-06277-_ePNSNV&aff_fsk=_ePNSNV&aff_platform=portals-tool&sk=_ePNSNV&aff_trace_key=6617341363a041c29cf8107688ac888e-1635715984986-06277-_ePNSNV&terminal_id=0de686744d79417dba06dd96895df1f7)
It seems like Options Q and R are similar to T and T1, with the width being the difference (8mm vs 7mm)..
Which would be recommended for this frame? The Q and R or the Ts or even the U? Too many choices that are slightly different. :-\
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Sorry, I was talking about a different frame (CFR-707). It's just that I had the same issue, so I thought I'd mention the 51.8/51.9/52.00mm bearing sizes (I first thought that my frame was out of spec, but I decided the generic bearings were not suitable).
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Ahhh fair enough, thanks for the clarification. :)
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How did u routing cables into the handlebar. Maybe the cables pushing the handlebar in one direction?
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After finally getting everything together, the semi-circle crown race thing that keeps the steerer tube centered seems to have popped off. Another problem with the handlebars is because of the tiny opening the housing comes out at an inconvenient angle and it's incredibly difficult to get the cables going to the right places in the headtube, and to get that crown race pressed down.
Also the headset compression plug they sent was cross threaded and doesn't work correctly. Luckily I had a leftover one I didn't use from my earlier builds.
Do you have any tips for getting that compression ring pressed down? Getting all the cables to align to fit in that tiny section has been an on going challenge for me, which I have given up for now... Still trying to figure out what the best way as I had so much troubles with it.
I initially had the HB011 bars and headset installed, but when I was turning left, there would be a "click" sound coming from the headset, which I believe was the either the front brake / front derailluer cables was hitting the inside of the frame.
It's been fun and challenging at times..
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Hi all. Just want to add as a note for anyone looking to get the vb-r-099 frame set. Make sure to put the seatpost setback into account when measuring the top tube / reach.
This also goes for any frame with a seat post that is proprietary to the frameset.
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Do you have any tips for getting that compression ring pressed down? Getting all the cables to align to fit in that tiny section has been an on going challenge for me, which I have given up for now... Still trying to figure out what the best way as I had so much troubles with it.
I initially had the HB011 bars and headset installed, but when I was turning left, there would be a "click" sound coming from the headset, which I believe was the either the front brake / front derailluer cables was hitting the inside of the frame.
It's been fun and challenging at times..
Sorry late reply, hopefully you got it by now anyways. I ended up using zip ties to to squish all the cables together as close as possible. Then squish them into the compression ring opening, and squish down the ring, while snipping the ties off as I got lower. Worked perfectly for me, although I had to do it twice. After the first time it popped out again, and I discovered the compression ring isn't tall enough for the headset cover to push down on it with sufficient force. So I ended up using a mtb bottom bracket ring spacer, with a cut in it so I could get it around the steerer tube. Then squished everything down again and it's been solid ever since. The spacer is about a .5 to 1mm too tall, but it was all I had and the gap isn't noticeable.
Velovelo has a good point too, I did not consider it haha. My handlebar size is a little too long for me because of it even with the seat slammed forward. If the handlebar routing wasn't so annoying I'd probably get a new one, but not worth it for now.
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Ya, my 099 / TT-X21 seat post setback is so backward that my knees does not track with the center of my pedals at 3 O'clock pedal position. Not to mention the fact that the seat post setback makes me stretch too far forward to reach my handlebars. This was an expensive oversight when measuring the top tube and reach based on my previous road bike frame which had a zero setback seat post. Not to mention that these frames have no resale value because they are none branded. You just have to get a new frameset.
TanTan and Velobuild do not have zero setback seat post for this frame or any of their frames with a proprietary seat post.
So I am looking at getting the BXT-ROAD-115 or VB-R-177 because you can run a standard 27.2 seat post with a zero setback if you want.
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Sorry late reply, hopefully you got it by now anyways. I ended up using zip ties to to squish all the cables together as close as possible. Then squish them into the compression ring opening, and squish down the ring, while snipping the ties off as I got lower. Worked perfectly for me, although I had to do it twice. After the first time it popped out again, and I discovered the compression ring isn't tall enough for the headset cover to push down on it with sufficient force. So I ended up using a mtb bottom bracket ring spacer, with a cut in it so I could get it around the steerer tube. Then squished everything down again and it's been solid ever since. The spacer is about a .5 to 1mm too tall, but it was all I had and the gap isn't noticeable.
Velovelo has a good point too, I did not consider it haha. My handlebar size is a little too long for me because of it even with the seat slammed forward. If the handlebar routing wasn't so annoying I'd probably get a new one, but not worth it for now.
Thanks zaphodbeeblebrox.. I was able to get around the compression ring and just had to be patient and use a bit of strength on the fingers to push it down to sit it properly when the cables are aligned.. I do wonder why they provided that compression ring and not another type as it's so finnicky and a pain in the ass..!
On another note,
Has anyone used a different headset for the VB-099 on the frame and would recommend one?
Also, does anyone have the torque values for:
1. The compression plug for the headset that came with HB-011 bars?
2. The two bolts for the HB-011 bars http://www.velobuild.com/products/carbon-fiber-road-bike-integrated-handlebar-with-spacers-for-hidden-cables-routing-300?
I have looked on the packaging that was sent out, along with compression plug and bars and there are no torque values stated on the product. TIA!
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I use the FSA ACR headset. The stock headset cover works fine with it.
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I use the FSA ACR headset. The stock headset cover works fine with it.
Just confirming that this is the FSA ACR Headset you are referring to https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/headsets/road-mtb/no-55r-1-5-acr (https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/headsets/road-mtb/no-55r-1-5-acr) ?
Also, do you happen to know the torque value in the attached image? I have sent an email to Velobuild and have yet to receive a response....
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Just confirming that this is the FSA ACR Headset you are referring to https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/headsets/road-mtb/no-55r-1-5-acr (https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/headsets/road-mtb/no-55r-1-5-acr) ?
Also, do you happen to know the torque value in the attached image? I have sent an email to Velobuild and have yet to receive a response....
As far as I know Value A is 5-6nm and Value B is only 1-2nm. This is from memory so would be great if another user (or VeloBuild themselves) could confirm.
I'm yet to build my 168 and would love to have all of the torque specs detailed if possible i.e. the seat post wedge, steerer tube plug, shifter handlebar clamps, front/rear brake callipers etc.
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Just confirming that this is the FSA ACR Headset you are referring to https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/headsets/road-mtb/no-55r-1-5-acr (https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/headsets/road-mtb/no-55r-1-5-acr) ?
Also, do you happen to know the torque value in the attached image? I have sent an email to Velobuild and have yet to receive a response....
Per VeloBuild these should be adjusted to 5.5Nm
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Per VeloBuild these should be adjusted to 5.5Nm
Thanks Hazzer19, just confirming that both values A and values B has a torque recommendation of 5.5NM? I'm just double checking just in case there is a misunderstanding and is this documented somewhere or was that communicated directly to you by Velobuild?
Also, is the seat post wedge really 12NM for the VB099? Only concern is over tightening it.. :)
I have yet to get a response from them and it's been over 4 days now..
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Just confirming that this is the FSA ACR Headset you are referring to https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/headsets/road-mtb/no-55r-1-5-acr (https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/headsets/road-mtb/no-55r-1-5-acr) ?
Also, do you happen to know the torque value in the attached image? I have sent an email to Velobuild and have yet to receive a response....
Yeah, that's the headset I use. Iirc, I torque mine to around 4 or 5nm. I beleive 6 is the max.
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Thanks Hazzer19, just confirming that both values A and values B has a torque recommendation of 5.5NM? I'm just double checking just in case there is a misunderstanding and is this documented somewhere or was that communicated directly to you by Velobuild?
Also, is the seat post wedge really 12NM for the VB099? Only concern is over tightening it.. :)
I have yet to get a response from them and it's been over 4 days now..
Yes I asked Velobuild directly and they said 5.5 Nm for the side bolts which are in A in your diagram and then said 6 Nm for the "top cap lock head sets". I'm not sure if this refers to only the top cap or the internal plug as well
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Yeah, that's the headset I use. Iirc, I torque mine to around 4 or 5nm. I beleive 6 is the max.
Thanks for that FHS!
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Yes I asked Velobuild directly and they said 5.5 Nm for the side bolts which are in A in your diagram and then said 6 Nm for the "top cap lock head sets". I'm not sure if this refers to only the top cap or the internal plug as well
Thanks for the confirmation Hazzer19.
I'm guessing the 6Nm they meant for the "top cap lock head sets" is pretty much the headset plug as the top cap headset drives the plugs. I'll stick to that and hope for the best.. ;D
In regards to your seat post wedge, assuming with carbon paste, what torque value did you use on yours?
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with some carbon paste , i torqued it to 6nm and its held up with no issues for about 3k miles now
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with some carbon paste , i torqued it to 6nm and its held up with no issues for about 3k miles now
Thanks Snacks! Any reasons why you didn't go close to the 12Nm as outlined on the wedge clamp?
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12 seemed a bit high when comparing to my other bikes. So I just tightened enough to stop it from moving
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That is my new fake S-works :D
First problems:
1. The seat dries automatically...
2. The handlebars are too soft for my 95kg... a lot of movement when I drive uphill
3. When I breaking only on front break I see that front forks bends back... idk maybe it is normal for carbon frame?
https://ibb.co/vvpwDhS (https://ibb.co/vvpwDhS)
https://ibb.co/xYZGstq (https://ibb.co/xYZGstq)
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That is my new fake S-works :D
First problems:
1. The seat dries automatically...
2. The handlebars are too soft for my 95kg... a lot of movement when I drive uphill
3. When I breaking only on front break I see that front forks bends back... idk maybe it is normal for carbon frame?
https://ibb.co/vvpwDhS (https://ibb.co/vvpwDhS)
https://ibb.co/xYZGstq (https://ibb.co/xYZGstq)
3) if flex is visible something is seriously wrong. Either your headset is loose or the fork is about to fail catastrophically, or both. Please get it looked at by a good mechanic.
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That is my new fake S-works :D
First problems:
1. The seat dries automatically...
2. The handlebars are too soft for my 95kg... a lot of movement when I drive uphill
3. When I breaking only on front break I see that front forks bends back... idk maybe it is normal for carbon frame?
https://ibb.co/vvpwDhS (https://ibb.co/vvpwDhS)
https://ibb.co/xYZGstq (https://ibb.co/xYZGstq)
If your handlebar is the Velobuild HB011 then yes it flexes a lot! Especially on both drops. I have similar experience. Velobuild agree to a change of handlebar but I have to pay for shipping both ways. I haven't gotten the time to send it back. I may just order the new separate stem and handlebar option from them and hope they can offer some kind of discount.
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If your handlebar is the Velobuild HB011 then yes it flexes a lot! Especially on both drops. I have similar experience. Velobuild agree to a change of handlebar but I have to pay for shipping both ways. I haven't gotten the time to send it back. I may just order the new separate stem and handlebar option from them and hope they can offer some kind of discount.
Has anyone used both the HB010 and HB011 and can comment on stiffness between the two?
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Mine is Velobuild HB010 and it flexes a lot! I will check with some climbs and i hope i survive :)
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I've got the HB010 and I'd agree they're not that stiff. The bar tops/hoods are ok but certainly in the drops they're a bit flexy. For me personally they're fine and I would very happily buy them again (actually that lack of super stiffness means they soak up lots of road vibration). However, if you're the sort of person who's doing hard sprints out of the saddle with the drops, you might be concerned about this lack of stiffness.
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I've got the HB010 and I'd agree they're not that stiff. The bar tops/hoods are ok but certainly in the drops they're a bit flexy. For me personally they're fine and I would very happily buy them again (actually that lack of super stiffness means they soak up lots of road vibration). However, if you're the sort of person who's doing hard sprints out of the saddle with the drops, you might be concerned about this lack of stiffness.
Thanks for the comments Ogi22 and J-S-Q. I have the original HB010 with the wedge fastening system not the two bolt one, and have a HB011 I will be switching to so wanted to hear some feedback in advance. Will report back!
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Thanks for the comments Ogi22 and J-S-Q. I have the original HB010 with the wedge fastening system not the two bolt one, and have a HB011 I will be switching to so wanted to hear some feedback in advance. Will report back!
FYI, my HB010 has the two bolt setup although I doubt that's particularly relevant to the stiffness.
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Hey all, I'm considering the 099 but currently have a gravel bike. 40c tires are likely all that is needed for the 'worst' gravel around here. Does anybody think 650b with 40c will fit this frame? Anybody tried?
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Hey all, I'm considering the 099 but currently have a gravel bike. 40c tires are likely all that is needed for the 'worst' gravel around here. Does anybody think 650b with 40c will fit this frame? Anybody tried?
yea i tried out my buddies 650b wheels with 45c tires on my frame once and they fit just fine
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Great, thanks! Snacks, after having had the bike for a year can you sum up your thoughts/review? Pros/cons?
Cheers
Tim
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yea i tried out my buddies 650b wheels with 45c tires on my frame once and they fit just fine
wow 45c/650b on a 099? I would not have expected that to work. Sounds fun!
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Great, thanks! Snacks, after having had the bike for a year can you sum up your thoughts/review? Pros/cons?
Cheers
Tim
No problem! Overall, I’m very happy with the bike. It does what I need it to and I feel like I’m going a ton faster than I was on my previous bike. Haven’t really had any issues with the frame. If I had to nitpick id purchase another headset , expander plug and handlebar. Expander plug doesn’t hold the greatest but works well enough to establish preload on the bearings. The headset provided works but isn’t the greatest , I’ve already replaced mine. The handlebar does flex a bit but it fits me very well and the flex hasn’t been an issue. Cable routing through the handlebar is actually pretty terrible. You need a internal routine kit like the park tool one. Some of the cheaper kits didn’t work for me. I think somewhere in this thread I have a link to a cheaper alternative from eBay that I’ve been using. So I think if I had the choice to forgo the handlebar and purchase mine own, I would. I was toying with the FSA Acr stem and some random aliexoress carbon bars that had internal cable routing but decided to stick with what I had since it fit so well. I also purchased an extra seat post since i think it’s proprietary and didn’t want to ever have an issue with that. Im not sure what else I can say about the frame as a the rest of my experience will differ from yours based on component, wheel, tire ..etc selection. But I can say given the opportunity to re-do my purchase, id purchase this frame again in a heatbeat.
wow 45c/650b on a 099? I would not have expected that to work. Sounds fun!
Yea it definitely was fun! But I didn’t want all the rocks and such chipping away and ruining the finish on my 099 so I got a dedicated gravel bike, velobuild gf01. I gave that a custom paint job with 2k clear to protect it and it’s been awesome. That’s running on 700c 45 tires . Thinking about it I should probably start a thread on it too
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Yea it definitely was fun! But I didn’t want all the rocks and such chipping away and ruining the finish on my 099 so I got a dedicated gravel bike, velobuild gf01. I gave that a custom paint job with 2k clear to protect it and it’s been awesome. That’s running on 700c 45 tires . Thinking about it I should probably start a thread on it too
Nice! Please do. I have a GF001 as well that I have been super happy with and got me into VB. I've just recently switched from 38c to 43c with fenders and it works great.
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Hello, anyone find a rubber cover for seat post and fits perfect?
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I am looking to replace the handlebars on my bike. I would like to keep the fully integrated look.
I was thinking of buying the Prime Doyenne Aero Handlebar : https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ca/en/prime-doyenne-aero-handlebar/rp-prod187394
and either
the velobuild separate stem used for internal routing
or the deda superb stem : https://www.racycles.com/product/detail/22242
would they both work?
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Hello, anyone find a rubber cover for seat post and fits perfect?
Not sure how well it fits but some people were using the one for the SL7
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ordered from here :)
https://www.lordgun.com/specialized-tarmac-sl7-seatpost-clamp-cover-1
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ordered from here :)
https://www.lordgun.com/specialized-tarmac-sl7-seatpost-clamp-cover-1
Please report back!
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I've been told that the cost to open a mould for a zero setback seatpost for the 099 is $500 (assume the same for 168). They don't want to front it.
Any interest from owners or potential buyers? I'd put $50 down. Only 9 others needed to cover cost of mould.
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I've been told that the cost to open a mould for a zero setback seatpost for the 099 is $500 (assume the same for 168). They don't want to front it.
Any interest from owners or potential buyers? I'd put $50 down. Only 9 others needed to cover cost of mould.
I MIGHT be interested in that. I was initially a bit concerned by the setback on my 099. Kind of decided it's ok but still.... Could be interested if this turns into a reality.
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I've been told that the cost to open a mould for a zero setback seatpost for the 099 is $500 (assume the same for 168). They don't want to front it.
Any interest from owners or potential buyers? I'd put $50 down. Only 9 others needed to cover cost of mould.
I am very much interested in this. I will put down USD100 for a zero setback mold + seat post for the 099.
To me the 099 is way better than the 168 (my impression is based off owning a 099 and reading some not so good issues with the 168 setup in this forum). Also because the 099 is physically unique and different from the wanna be SL7 looks of the 168 (no offence intended to the 168 bros :-X).
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I am very much interested in this. I will put down USD100 for a zero setback mold + seat post for the 099.
To me the 099 is way better than the 168 (my impression is based off owning a 099 and reading some not so good issues with the 168 setup in this forum). Also because the 099 is physically unique and different from the wanna be SL7 looks of the 168 (no offence intended to the 168 bros :-X).
Curious as to what issues you are referring to with the VB-R-168? All I have seen is the common seat post slipping and difficulty in routing the cables through the bars, neither of which are specific to the frame itself.
The VB-R-099 is also based off the Specialized Venge so it's not that unique.
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I've been told that the cost to open a mould for a zero setback seatpost for the 099 is $500 (assume the same for 168). They don't want to front it.
Any interest from owners or potential buyers? I'd put $50 down. Only 9 others needed to cover cost of mould.
I'd be interested for $50. At one point, I was convinced I needed a 0 setback seat post. I think I worked out my fitment issues, but it would still be nice to have the 0 setback option.
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Already getting close then. $200 out of the $500 required. I imagine the seatposts themselves will be $40-50, though I didn't ask.
Before heading down this rabbit hole, has anyone actually checked if a Venge seatpost will fit? I know the SL7 one won't for the 168, but I seem to remember some older models would accept proprietary Spec seatposts.
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Already getting close then. $200 out of the $500 required. I imagine the seatposts themselves will be $40-50, though I didn't ask.
Before heading down this rabbit hole, has anyone actually checked if a Venge seatpost will fit? I know the SL7 one won't for the 168, but I seem to remember some older models would accept proprietary Spec seatposts.
I did a cursory look to see if it did awhile back. Im pretty sure it won't. If I thought it would at the time I looked, I probably would have picked one up.
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I would also be interested in a 0 setback seat post.
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I would also be interested in a 0 setback seat post.
Does that mean you're willing to pay $50 towards opening the mould?
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Does that mean you're willing to pay $50 towards opening the mould?
Is that how much opening a mould costs? I honestly wouldn't mind paying extra (up to 200 USD?) for changes like a round seatpost (27.2, 30.9 or 31.6mm), headset system of choice (DCR, ACR, Token or First) , FD braze-on mount delete (1x), RD direct mount hanger, 32c clearance, and revised brake calliper bolt hole spacing (160mm front/rear flush mount like Open Mind & 3T Exploro Racemax). All those features added to a Workswell WCB-R-369 would be an absolute dream of mine.
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Does that mean you're willing to pay $50 towards opening the mould?
Yep.
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Is that how much opening a mould costs? I honestly wouldn't mind paying extra (up to 200 USD?) for changes like a round seatpost (27.2, 30.9 or 31.6mm), headset system of choice (DCR, ACR, Token or First) , FD braze-on mount delete (1x), RD direct mount hanger, 32c clearance, and revised brake calliper bolt hole spacing (160mm front/rear flush mount like Open Mind & 3T Exploro Racemax). All those features added to a Workswell WCB-R-369 would be an absolute dream of mine.
Well 32c clearance is at least one thing you DO already have with the R-099. I have 32c's on mine and they fit perfectly well.
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Is that how much opening a mould costs? I honestly wouldn't mind paying extra (up to 200 USD?) for changes like a round seatpost (27.2, 30.9 or 31.6mm), headset system of choice (DCR, ACR, Token or First) , FD braze-on mount delete (1x), RD direct mount hanger, 32c clearance, and revised brake calliper bolt hole spacing (160mm front/rear flush mount like Open Mind & 3T Exploro Racemax). All those features added to a Workswell WCB-R-369 would be an absolute dream of mine.
See below. I posted it yesterday. Already we probably have $250 out of $500 needed. If I can put you down for $50 then that's $300 out of $500. I'll ask about direct mount hanger if and when we get this done. It should be fairly low hanging fruit, especially as I think the 099 and 168 use the same.
I've been told that the cost to open a mould for a zero setback seatpost for the 099 is $500 (assume the same for 168). They don't want to front it.
Any interest from owners or potential buyers? I'd put $50 down. Only 9 others needed to cover cost of mould.
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See below. I posted it yesterday. Already we probably have $250 out of $500 needed. If I can put you down for $50 then that's $300 out of $500. I'll ask about direct mount hanger if and when we get this done. It should be fairly low hanging fruit, especially as I think the 099 and 068 use the same.
Sorry, my words were unclear and I mislead you. I was wondering aloud about what the ballpark for opening a frame mould would be. If I were to go ahead, it'd be with the Workswell 369 and not this Velobuild 099.
It makes me think though, a group of us could get together and structure any potential deal like a group buy. Forum special edition framesets anyone? I've actually participated in something like this in the past but with watches (https://www.watchuseek.com/forums/2016-forum-project-watch.722/) so it's doable albeit very hard work.
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Sorry, my words were unclear and I mislead you. I was wondering aloud about what the ballpark for opening a frame mould would be. If I were to go ahead, it'd be with the Workswell 369 and not this Velobuild 099.
It makes me think though, a group of us could get together and structure any potential deal like a group buy. Forum special edition framesets anyone? I've actually participated in something like this in the past but with watches (https://www.watchuseek.com/forums/2016-forum-project-watch.722/) so it's doable albeit very hard work.
It’s about $10,000 per mould per size. That’s just the mould cost, you’d still have to pay someone for materials and labor to manufacture the frame.
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Does anyone know if there's a 3rd party headset that works with the frame?
My handlebars/stem are too wide/long.
I know they now have a separate bar/stem, but I would love to be able to use any stem/handlebar combo.
I could be interested in the seat post. Have you got a price for it, other than the mould price?
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I could be interested in the seat post. Have you got a price for it, other than the mould price?
What ever they charge for a new one usually. Which I think is usually $40-50.
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Hi guys. I am new on this forum and really enjoy it. Recieved my R-099's last month. Building up a size 52 for my girl right now. Really happy with the size 54 I am riding. I am definetly willing to pay $50 for the zero offset mould.
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Hi guys. I am new on this forum and really enjoy it. Recieved my R-099's last month. Building up a size 52 for my girl right now. Really happy with the size 54 I am riding. I am definetly willing to pay $50 for the zero offset mould.
Up to $350 potentially then.
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Hi guys. I am new on this forum and really enjoy it. Recieved my R-099's last month. Building up a size 52 for my girl right now. Really happy with the size 54 I am riding. I am definetly willing to pay $50 for the zero offset mould.
Can you give the the version number for the FSA headset you’re using, is it 52mm bearings?? Thanks!
Is it the FSA No.55r 1.5?
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Yes. That's the one. I used the FSA bearing on the top. The Velobuild bearing at the bottom.
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Hi guys. I am new on this forum and really enjoy it. Recieved my R-099's last month. Building up a size 52 for my girl right now. Really happy with the size 54 I am riding. I am definetly willing to pay $50 for the zero offset mould.
What a lovely build! Congrats! :)
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Hello, how to eliminate loosening of the seatpost and handlebar HB010 central screw every cca 10 km of riding >:( :-\ :-X
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Hello, how to eliminate loosening of the seatpost and handlebar HB010 central screw every cca 10 km of riding >:( :-\ :-X
not sure what the central screw is that you're referring to, a pic would help but if your seat post is slipping use carbon paste
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These one...
https://www.valy.si/image.ashx?id=5014731&.jpg
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These one...
https://www.valy.si/image.ashx?id=5014731&.jpg
you only need that tight to preload the headset bearings but after you tighten down the stem it really doesnt matter if it slips a bit as long as the expander plug is still going the full length of the stem to stop the stem from crushing your steerer tube.
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Hello, how to eliminate loosening of the seatpost and handlebar HB010 central screw every cca 10 km of riding >:( :-\ :-X
This carbon paste has worked really well for me:
https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Peatys-Max-Grip-Carbon-Assembly-Paste-75g_240931.htm
It has nice fine abrasive particles in it and I have zero slipping of the seat post.
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Ok, good news. Chris has said that $350 from us is enough to start the zero offset mould.
We'll PP our $50 each and then they'll begin.
The following expressed interest in paying $50 each for the mould. If you don't want to go ahead, please indicate now and we'll try to find others to fill your place.
Me.
@J-S-Q
@Velovelo
@FHS
@zaphodbeeblebrox
@Bikeoiv
@BiciDomingo
When Chris gives me the PP address he wants to use, I'll post it here. Reference will be "099 zero offset mould". When you've made the payment, you can post a screengrab here of it - of course feel free to obscure personal details.
I've also asked him to indicate what the final price for the seatpost will be.
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Nice! Thanks for organizing @RDY.
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Great news! Thanks @RDY for organizing.
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Ok, good news. Chris has said that $350 from us is enough to start the zero offset mould.
We'll PP our $50 each and then they'll begin.
The following expressed interest in paying $50 each for the mould. If you don't want to go ahead, please indicate now and we'll try to find others to fill your place.
Me.
@J-S-Q
@Velovelo
@FHS
@zaphodbeeblebrox
@Bikeoiv
@BiciDomingo
When Chris gives me the PP address he wants to use, I'll post it here. Reference will be "099 zero offset mould". When you've made the payment, you can post a screengrab here of it - of course feel free to obscure personal details.
I've also asked him to indicate what the final price for the seatpost will be.
Thanks for organizing!
If possible, could you ask Chris if he can apply a portion the payment for the mould to the payment for the actual seat post? It doesn't necessarily have to be the full amount, depending on the final price, but even a discounted price would be a nice gesture for getting this made for all of us to be able to pick up.
Thanks!
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@RDY Nice work. Many thanks.
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Waiting for Chris to reply with payment details.
Will ask about a discount on the posts for those who contributed after we make the payments. Don't think it'd be wise to do so before.
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$50 to support@velobuild.com - reference "099 zero offset mold costs"
If you don't want to go ahead, please indicate now and we'll try to find others to fill your place.
Me. - PAID ($100)
@Gigelz - PAID ($35)
@Velovelo - PAID ($50)
@FHS - PAID ($50)
@zaphodbeeblebrox - PAID ($50)
@BiciDomingo - PAID ($65)
Edit: $350 now raised. Thanks everyone.
Please post a screenshot here of your payment (can wipe out your personal details). Mine below:
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Chris has confirmed that the unit price for the seatpost themselves will be $30, and new orders for the frameset will include it if preferred. I think that's cheap enough not to bother asking for a discount. I'd assumed they'd be nearly double that.
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Payment details. Thanks RDY.
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Sent!
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Sent
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Sent, thanks!
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Hi everyone,
joined this forum end of 2021 when I was looking for information on velobuild. After reading through this forum and checking with Chris I decided to order a VB-R-099. The build is completed in the meantime and waiting for spring to arrive so I can take the bike on the road. Reason I chose the VB-R-099 were integrated cable routing and available frame size option 58. I am 1.95 m tall with 96 cm in seam length, typically ride a 86 cm saddle to bottom bracket length and something like 10 to 13 cm saddle to stem drop.
Wanted to share my bike and a few experiences, with my theme being inspired by Chinertown I decided to use a Sensah Empire Pro shifting set, a Juin Tech F1 brake and 50mm deep Elite wheels. I also opted for the separated bar and stem combo since I was not sure regarding the integrated bar shape and I wanted the freedom to swap either stem or bar. This has been noted before in the forum, I ordered a 120mm stem but when I measure what I received it is more a 125mm or even a 130mm the way we measure stems here in Germany.
With all mechanical shifting and brake I struggled quite a bit with the internal cable routing. Tried to use compressionless cable housing first, but struggled big time to route the housing, especially from the bar into the stem and run cables through it. Swapped the compressionless KEB-SL housing with standard Shimano brake housing, which was easier to be routed through the bar and the stem into the frame. When installing cables into the housing it worked, but operation was not perfectly smooth. Therefore I decided to swap the velobuild spacers with a common set you can buy from Aliexpress. You will either have to cut the bottom spacer or fill it with epoxy so it becomes a plain surface that can sit flush with the ¾ ring of the top headset bearing. I also cut out the top spacer so I could run the cables from underneath the steam into the spacer. I understand this is not a perfect internal cable routing, but it eases setup and enables cable routing and smooth operation of brakes and shifting and I am satisifed with the result.
I am attaching a few pictures of the build and the cable routing. Since my camera is struggling with the different shades of red I am also posting the custom paint link on the velobuild homepage.
http://www.velobuildmall.com/products/vb-r-099-custom-paint-aero-road-carbon-bike-frame-red-fading-glossy-paint
A final comment: I found it strange, that the front axle is fixed from the drive train side rather than from the non-drive train side. Also, the 130mm axle that was shipped with the frame was a bit long and stood out quite significant on the brake side. I ordered a shorter set from Aliexpress which leaves less excess thread being visible once the front wheel is fastened with the axle.
Oh, almost forgot: tried to fit a Specialized seatpost cover because I read in this forum people have successfully done that. Can anybody confirm? My VB-R-099 seatpost is shaped thicker at the front and smaller at the tail, Specialized seatposts seem to be the other way round hence the cover would not fit a VB-R-099?
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Welcome. Nice bike. I think you will be happy when spring arrives and you can take the 099 for a ride. I really love this bike. Comfortabele and fast. Can you provide a link for the thru axle you ordered by Ali? Many thanks.
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Welcome. Nice bike. I think you will be happy when spring arrives and you can take the 099 for a ride. I really love this bike. Comfortabele and fast. Can you provide a link for the thru axle you ordered by Ali? Many thanks.
Thanks. Looking forward to the first rides. These are the ones I picked up at Aliexpress:
https://aliexpress.com/item/4000493300098.html
Bought the 126mm version, still a little bit too long but much better than the 130mm version that came with the frameset.
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If anybody else wants to contribute to the zero offset seatpost mould, feel free, the two guys left seemed unsure.
Re: the thru-axles, surely it's dangerous to be using ones which are far too long ... Not enough thread will be engaged?
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Re: the thru-axles, surely it's dangerous to be using ones which are far too long ... Not enough thread will be engaged?
Axle length and thread length are specified independently. The front axle that arrived with my frame seemed to be long overall in addition to a long thread length (L21).
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Axle length and thread length are specified independently. The front axle that arrived with my frame seemed to be long overall in addition to a long thread length (L21).
It sounds like they don't have the right ones so are sending a compromise. 130mm does sound very wide on a fork that appears not to have a very wide section. I'd be surprised if it's legitimately above the range of 118-122mm. Have other buyers received one which fit perfectly or are they all like this?
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It sounds like they don't have the right ones so are sending a compromise. 130mm does sound very wide on a fork that appears not to have a very wide section. I'd be surprised if it's legitimately above the range of 118-122mm. Have other buyers received one which fit perfectly or are they all like this?
Good question, I would also be interested what axle did other buyers receive with their frame?
The 130mm L17 sticks out about 8mm on my fork, a 122mm with L15 should have done the job (I replaced it with a 126 L17, which is still around 2mm too long).
Asked Chris from velobuild, will keep you updated on his response.
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Hey as i prommised... that is specialized sl7 seatpost cover.
https://ibb.co/PcrLV4v
https://ibb.co/0j8tCmR
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Hey as i prommised... that is specialized sl7 seatpost cover.
https://ibb.co/PcrLV4v
https://ibb.co/0j8tCmR
Seems not to fit. Or did you receive it bent - hence why the front is furled upwards?
Also it looks aggressively tapered ... Not sure the genuine one is like that.
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Stick and rubber are tottaly different shape that is why not fitting perfectly :-\
https://ibb.co/XLTVK2B
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$50 to support@velobuild.com - reference "099 zero offset mold costs"
If you don't want to go ahead, please indicate now and we'll try to find others to fill your place.
Me. - PAID
@J-S-Q
@Velovelo - PAID
@FHS - PAID
@zaphodbeeblebrox - PAID
@Bikeoiv
@BiciDomingo - PAID
Please post a screenshot here of your payment (can wipe out your personal details). Mine below:
Will Chris be willing to go ahead with making the mold first even though our end of the deal is not fully met yet?
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Will Chris be willing to go ahead with making the mold first even though our end of the deal is not fully met yet?
Think it's better to keep it as is. More likelihood of them considering other things like DM hanger and rubber cover for seatpost etc.
If nobody else has paid by Sunday, I'll pay another $50, leaving only another $50 needed, which I'm sure the community could find.
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Guys, I can do another $15.
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Paid another $50 ($100 total).
So that's $50 left, or $35 left if Bicidomingo pays another $15
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i can cover the rest, 35$. always hard to have enough money as i am a student but i like the idea of a non setback seatpost !
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Paid another $15. Many thanks RDY for arranging this.
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i can cover the rest, 35$. always hard to have enough money as i am a student but i like the idea of a non setback seatpost !
Thanks. If you go ahead please post the PP receipt. I'll then contact Chris to confirm it's all paid and that the mold is being started.
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Paid the 35$ :)
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Great job guys!, can't wait to hear Chris say "Seat posts are ready!"
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Does anyone have experience with fixing minor chainstay scratches caused by chain drop while riding?
I saw on youtube someone used a powerful adhesive like in the attached image or do I need to take it to a local carbon repairer shop? In my opinion the scratch as shown in my 099 image is not too deep to apply a new carbon layer.
I now use a chain catcher on all my frames.
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Does anyone have experience with fixing minor chainstay scratches caused by chain drop while riding?
I saw on youtube someone used a powerful adhesive like in the attached image or do I need to take it to a local carbon repairer shop? In my opinion the scratch as shown in my 099 image is not too deep to apply a new carbon layer.
I now use a chain catcher on all my frames.
That looks minor. I used a couple of layers of clear coat nail polish.
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Can those who contributed to the mold costs DM me with your first name and initial of your last name, please. I'll then relay these to Chris.
There was a bit of a SNAFU with the mold cost apparently. It being $800 rather $500. Rather than trying to raise extra money I suggested that they add $20 extra to the price of the zero offset posts instead. Chris accepted this, and has also agreed to honor the originally quoted $30 price for the seatposts, or to charge no extra if ordering a frameset with a zero instead of normal seatpost, for those who contributed to the mold costs. Others who didn't will be charged $50 for just the zero seatpost, or $20 if choosing it in preference to the normal one with a frameset.
Having the name list will ensure that you get your discount.
From what I understood, work on the mold started a week or so ago, and Chris originally said it would take about 20 days to finish.
Names needed:
@Gigelz
@Velovelo
@FHS
@zaphodbeeblebrox
@BiciDomingo
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That's awesome RDY, thanks for putting in all the work and aticking with it. Good of Chris for being so flexible.
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Can those who contributed to the mold costs DM me with your first name and initial of your last name, please. I'll then relay these to Chris.
There was a bit of a SNAFU with the mold cost apparently. It being $800 rather $500. Rather than trying to raise extra money I suggested that they add $20 extra to the price of the zero offset posts instead. Chris accepted this, and has also agreed to honor the originally quoted $30 price for the seatposts, or to charge no extra if ordering a frameset with a zero instead of normal seatpost, for those who contributed to the mold costs. Others who didn't will be charged $50 for just the zero seatpost, or $20 if choosing it in preference to the normal one with a frameset.
Having the name list will ensure that you get your discount.
From what I understood, work on the mold started a week or so ago, and Chris originally said it would take about 20 days to finish.
Names needed:
@Gigelz
@Velovelo
@FHS
@zaphodbeeblebrox
@BiciDomingo
Got PMs from everybody except @velovelo - if you could respond when you see this. Thanks
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Got PMs from everybody except @velovelo - if you could respond when you see this. Thanks
PM sent. Sorry for the delay and thanks again for arranging.
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Names all sent to Chris. Thanks everyone. Also initiating my 099 order finally.
Going to go for a 58, with 80mm stem and no handlebar, obviously with a zero offset post.
Paint wise I'll go for a Blue Chameleon into Black fade with Neon Pink Splatter on the Black and fade areas.
On that note, has anybody ordered a frame with splatter from them? I don't recall seeing one.
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Sounds good with the neon pink. I am sure the splatters will pop out nice! Looking forward to see the result.
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Hi guys. I am new on this forum and really enjoy it. Recieved my R-099's last month. Building up a size 52 for my girl right now. Really happy with the size 54 I am riding. I am definetly willing to pay $50 for the zero offset mould.
Do you have any pics of the 52 finished? And maybe next to the 54? I'm debating between the two sizes and you have both!
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Do you have any pics of the 52 finished? And maybe next to the 54? I'm debating between the two sizes and you have both!
I don't own two bike stands so its hard to make pictures that show the difference. If you have an sugestion please tell. If you can DM your email. I can sent you some nog so good pictures.
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Hi guys. Any news from Chris yet?
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After initially saying that it'd take a couple of weeks, he told me a couple of weeks ago (after starting a couple of weeks earlier), that it would take another 30 days.
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Zero setback post. Shortly to be shipped out with my frame.
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Zero setback post. Shortly to be shipped out with my frame.
Yes!!!
Thanks for the update :)
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Awesome! This makes the 099 super enticing
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I just realized that the VB-R-099, WCB-R-268 and LTK268 are same thing
However, only Workswell (https://www.workswellbikes.com/race/wcb-r-268-v-brake.html) and Longteng (http://www.ltbikes.com/product/93.html) seem to offer the DM rim brake version of the frame
Is there any indication that Velobuild would do the same?
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Why not order it from them instead?
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Why not order it from them instead?
Velobuild quotes the lowest price IIRC
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Zero setback post. Shortly to be shipped out with my frame.
How we can get one ? :) I supported the mould with money.
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Chris should tell me when they're ready. Mine isn't shipped yet. They haven't been coated yet - pic was raw.
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Chris should tell me when they're ready. Mine isn't shipped yet. They haven't been coated yet - pic was raw.
Thanks :)
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Hi everyone,
joined this forum end of 2021 when I was looking for information on velobuild. After reading through this forum and checking with Chris I decided to order a VB-R-099. The build is completed in the meantime and waiting for spring to arrive so I can take the bike on the road. Reason I chose the VB-R-099 were integrated cable routing and available frame size option 58. I am 1.95 m tall with 96 cm in seam length, typically ride a 86 cm saddle to bottom bracket length and something like 10 to 13 cm saddle to stem drop.
Wanted to share my bike and a few experiences, with my theme being inspired by Chinertown I decided to use a Sensah Empire Pro shifting set, a Juin Tech F1 brake and 50mm deep Elite wheels. I also opted for the separated bar and stem combo since I was not sure regarding the integrated bar shape and I wanted the freedom to swap either stem or bar. This has been noted before in the forum, I ordered a 120mm stem but when I measure what I received it is more a 125mm or even a 130mm the way we measure stems here in Germany.
With all mechanical shifting and brake I struggled quite a bit with the internal cable routing. Tried to use compressionless cable housing first, but struggled big time to route the housing, especially from the bar into the stem and run cables through it. Swapped the compressionless KEB-SL housing with standard Shimano brake housing, which was easier to be routed through the bar and the stem into the frame. When installing cables into the housing it worked, but operation was not perfectly smooth. Therefore I decided to swap the velobuild spacers with a common set you can buy from Aliexpress. You will either have to cut the bottom spacer or fill it with epoxy so it becomes a plain surface that can sit flush with the ¾ ring of the top headset bearing. I also cut out the top spacer so I could run the cables from underneath the steam into the spacer. I understand this is not a perfect internal cable routing, but it eases setup and enables cable routing and smooth operation of brakes and shifting and I am satisifed with the result.
I am attaching a few pictures of the build and the cable routing. Since my camera is struggling with the different shades of red I am also posting the custom paint link on the velobuild homepage.
http://www.velobuildmall.com/products/vb-r-099-custom-paint-aero-road-carbon-bike-frame-red-fading-glossy-paint
A final comment: I found it strange, that the front axle is fixed from the drive train side rather than from the non-drive train side. Also, the 130mm axle that was shipped with the frame was a bit long and stood out quite significant on the brake side. I ordered a shorter set from Aliexpress which leaves less excess thread being visible once the front wheel is fastened with the axle.
Oh, almost forgot: tried to fit a Specialized seatpost cover because I read in this forum people have successfully done that. Can anybody confirm? My VB-R-099 seatpost is shaped thicker at the front and smaller at the tail, Specialized seatposts seem to be the other way round hence the cover would not fit a VB-R-099?
Does the front derailleur adjustment work without problems for the Senah Empire groupset (the new one with aluminium alloy)?
The cables on the VB-R-099 model are routed internally, so using a cable adjuster is not possible, is it?
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Can someone tell me what the seatpost clamp bolt and bottle bolt specs are for the 099?
Ordering Ti replacements and don't have the frame yet.
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Can someone tell me what the seatpost clamp bolt and bottle bolt specs are for the 099?
Ordering Ti replacements and don't have the frame yet.
Also intending to run 60mm of spacers below the stem. More than VB's recommended 40mm. I guess best option is to use Colnago's 100mm expander in this case to be safe? Anything I should be aware of?
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Also intending to run 60mm of spacers below the stem. More than VB's recommended 40mm. I guess best option is to use Colnago's 100mm expander in this case to be safe? Anything I should be aware of?
Did you order the extra spacers from VB? How much did they cost?
I think 60mm spacers should be fine. I have seen Giant Propels and Orbeas come from the factory with about similar or more spacers so the rider can adjust stack based on their own bike fit.
Hope the image for 099 clamp specs attached are useful.
I'll be changing my clamp bolt also.
The bottle cage bolts are the generic once. The cap of the bolt will depend on the design/space around your bottle cage screw holes.
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Does the front derailleur adjustment work without problems for the Senah Empire groupset (the new one with aluminium alloy)?
The cables on the VB-R-099 model are routed internally, so using a cable adjuster is not possible, is it?
I did not use a cable adjuster and was able to setup the Sensah front derailleur just fine.
Even though I could have added a cable adjuster, since I am running the housing from underneath the bar, through the spacers into the headtube.
Somewhere in this setup there would have been space for a cable adjuster, but anyway: did not need it for setting up the front derailleur.
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I did not use a cable adjuster and was able to setup the Sensah front derailleur just fine.
Even though I could have added a cable adjuster, since I am running the housing from underneath the bar, through the spacers into the headtube.
Somewhere in this setup there would have been space for a cable adjuster, but anyway: did not need it for setting up the front derailleur.
Thanks for the info, I'm planning a setup with the VB-R-168 model with separate stem and handlebars. The cables should be routed completely internally, if necessary I install a current Shimano R7000 or R800 front derailleur.
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Got a tracking # today and UPS have received my frame. So I assume the zero offsets are now available to order. For those who supported the mold costs, remember to give Chris your name for the lower price to be honored.
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Did you order the extra spacers from VB? How much did they cost?
I think 60mm spacers should be fine. I have seen Giant Propels and Orbeas come from the factory with about similar or more spacers so the rider can adjust stack based on their own bike fit.
Just as an FYI, the Giant Propel with carbon steerers are OD2 1 1/4 inch diameter and use a longer expander than the stumpy ones that usually come stock with Chinese frames. If steerers are OD1, they are 1 1/8 but made of aluminum.
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Just as an FYI, the Giant Propel with carbon steerers are OD2 1 1/4 inch diameter and use a longer expander than the stumpy ones that usually come stock with Chinese frames. If steerers are OD1, they are 1 1/8 but made of aluminum.
I'm gonna use a 100mm expander to be safe. Also Giant OD1 on road bikes have been carbon for ages.
The one thing I really dislike about Giant road / gravel is OD1 (zero options for internal routing) and OD2 (one option which is very difficult and constraining) due to the tiny diameter of the bearing seats.
I was told there'd be a new system for the new Propel, which would then filter into the TCR and others. Really hope the outer diameter is at least 52mm.
If not for the OD issues, my Revolt would be a forever bike - or until-I-break-it bike.
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I honestly don't know much about OD1 steerers on other Giant road bikes. I did crack the front forks on my 2020 Propel Advanced Pro and had to find a replacement set. In searching, I never saw a set of forks with an OD1 steerer on a pre 2018 Propel with in anything but aluminum. <shrug> Yeah, OD2 is kind of a pain, but only if you're looking to switch out components. I actually really like the look and the internal routing system on the 2018+ Propel, the bearings only have to operate through like 45 degrees from center at the most, so I don't feel the need to modify the stock set up. The frame came with every thing I needed and more. I absolutely hate the external routing on the TCR. It's a great frame, but until they clean up the looks...
Anyway, yeah, be careful with too many spacers on the 099. ;)
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I'm shocked they still had alu steerers that late. To my knowledge none of the carbon OD1 frames have alu steerers now. The problem with the OD2 solution is that if Giant's solution doesn't suit you, you don't have an alternative.
I think 60mm of spacers on the 099 is a lot safer with a quality 100mm expander and decent headset than 30mm with the stock plug and headset ... play, poor compression and short expanders aren't a great combo.
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The Dolan Ares is a 099 frame with a different fork and seat post + UCI certification. Interesting how the bike industry works :)
-Edited-
Looks more identical to the Workswell WCB-R-268.
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The Dolan Ares is a 099 frame with a different fork and seat post + UCI certification. Interesting how the bike industry works :)
Technically I'd guess it's a private Workswell mold. I vaguely remember hearing Dolan used them before.
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How much more expensive are Workswell bikes?
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Technically I'd guess it's a private Workswell mold. I vaguely remember hearing Dolan used them before.
Ya, I just realized the Dolan Ares does look more identical to the Workswell WCB-R-268 frame. Interesting.
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Ok, good news. Chris has said that $350 from us is enough to start the zero offset mould.
We'll PP our $50 each and then they'll begin.
The following expressed interest in paying $50 each for the mould. If you don't want to go ahead, please indicate now and we'll try to find others to fill your place.
Me.
@J-S-Q
@Velovelo
@FHS
@zaphodbeeblebrox
@Bikeoiv
@BiciDomingo
When Chris gives me the PP address he wants to use, I'll post it here. Reference will be "099 zero offset mould". When you've made the payment, you can post a screengrab here of it - of course feel free to obscure personal details.
I've also asked him to indicate what the final price for the seatpost will be.
Hi guys, has anyone received their seatpost yet or update?
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Hi guys, has anyone received their seatpost yet or update?
I ordered one last week, Chris told me it would take about 10 days to ship.
But I expect it will take even longer.
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I ordered one last week, Chris told me it would take about 10 days to ship.
But I expect it will take even longer.
Ordered it about 10 days ago. Did not arrive in the Netherlands yet.
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Hoping to get mine next week. Customs are a nightmare after a recent change which requires a broker here
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Finally received it.
Good points:
New zero offset post is very nicely finished (save for usual bits of mold baggie they were too lazy to fully remove and sprayed black) and much better looking than offset.
Came with all the cable port bungs etc.
Haven't measured it yet so could be wrong size, but to the naked eye the BB looks very round, has very uniform shell thickness, and concentricity looks good. Given how many $5-6k framesets I've seen with very obviously borked BB shells (even to the naked eye) this is good.
Inside of tubes mostly fairly clean and no obvious voids. Couple of minor wrinkles in BB area. Head tube and seat tube (per BB) have consistent thickness in the cut area (again unlike some really crappy big name brands). To the eye, flat mounts on fork and rear triangle look fine.
Paint job isn't great, but it's essentially free if you get something 'standard', and as good as can be reasonably expected. Only one small scuff - which by their painter's recent record is a good outcome.
Edit - added - Integrated stem has no pinch points on the steerer as it's a carbon sleeve rather than heavily machined alu.
OK points:
Steerer is alright. Not what I'd call the cleanest but no obvuous alarm bells.
Di2 port (which I don't actually need) is badly fitting.
Not ideal points:
They made the stem unnecessarily chunky and heavy for a carbon wrapped alu design (never heard of one failing). An option fot cable entry below the front plate would allow the use of bars without a hole in the clamping area. As it is, you're limited to ones with a hole.
Edit - Mine didn't ship with the new c-ring (which I assume was meant to be for all bikes with the new integrated stem). The thing was so thick that I mistook it for the chunky spacers, and thought I didn't have one.
Still shipping with a front thru-axle that's 5mm too long - though I anticipated this and ordered a Heppe replacement from Ali.
Headset bearings are very poor quality and grainy and notchy even out of the bike. But I was going to use FSA anyway.
Expander / plug is very short and not brilliant design, as many have commented on. Using a long Colnago one.
Bad (terrible) points:
Whomever is doing the seat post clamp and headset bearing seats is definitely not the same person(s) doing the BB area finishing. They are a total mess.
a) Gobs of resin and black paint spattered all over the place inside of the seat tube. Attempt to chamfer inside of top of seat tube looks like it was done with a power tool resulting in chips. Molding / mandrel / whatever was clearly torn out of the ledge the seatpost assembly sits on too early, resulting in large ugly surface voids, which they failed to cover up with black paint.
b) The top headset bearing seat appears to be correctly sized, but is very, very badly finished. Some bits of excess carbon sheet were never trimmed off. Others are coming off (delaminating), again I suspect due to power tool use. Scratches and scores (again power tool) all over the place. The bearing seat is unlikely to fail, especially as the head tube itself is fine, but it's inexcusably poor workmanship and totally unnecessary. The bottom bearing seat on the other hand looks better but is VERY tight - I couldn't extricate it after test fitting - probably have to use needle nose pliers and damage it. And I expect the LBS to have to sand the seat a little.
Conclusion of first impressions:
I think the girls and guys laying up the frame are for the most part doing a pretty good job (steerer could still be better). And at least superficially things look better - at least much less dysfunctional - than a good number of bikes sold for 10x the price. But either unskilled jobbers are being employed to do other areas - seat clamp / tube and headset bearing seats, or skilled workers are being pushed to spend no time or care on them whatsoever. I expect it's a combination of both, together with a bit of carelessness, all compounded by the fact that Velobuild seem to deem this OK. It leaves a bitter taste receiving something that shitty. I don't expect it to be a safety or performance issue, though given enough time the top bearing seat could delaminate sufficiently to make it one. But banning the use of power tools to sand, chamfer or finish delicate areas, trimming out excess carbon sheet and patching it up with a little resin would ensure a frame that otherwise appears to be pretty good doesn't result in lost future customers. If the cost and price need to go up $20, I guarantee there would be way more repeat customers. Especially given that this is not a 'lemon' - Chris knew I'd post my experiences given that I organized the zero offset funder here. Others will have had it much worse.
TLDR they did all the hard work and avoided the usual pitfalls, but some really bad workmanship leaves a bad taste, and would probably make some customers too afraid to even ride it, as they may not appreciate what exactly they are looking at.
Build should be fairly soon. Hopefully no additional surprises. At the painter having neon pink splatter on black parts and final clear done.
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Yikes, the seat post clamp and headset bearing seats in those photos are just total...nvm I've already ranted enough one day.
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Man, I was kicking myself a bit because I ended up spending more money on the TanTan x-21. The difference in build quality are huge though, it this is any indication.
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Man, I was kicking myself a bit because I ended up spending more money on the TanTan x-21. The difference in build quality are huge though, it this is any indication.
Toss up I'd say. I've seen a TanTan with what looked like a cookie cutter for a headtube (massive variations in thickness), and terrible BB shell. The 'build quality' on this on the whole seems good ... but the finishing of interfaces at seat and head tube are awful. The difference in finishing between the BB area and head and seat tubes are so massive it wouldn't surprise me if the BB was done at the factory, and to save money the latter were done ex-situ at some shitty workshop**.
** As far as I know this was relatively common with some of the cheapest stuff in the early days of open mold. But didn't think it was still a thing.
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So painful to see this kind of finishing. Given that the 099 is my most preferred frame of all velobuild's offerings. Sorry Man!
The seatpost however looks really well done. Waiting to receive mine.
Love the frame color you went with. Clean!
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To those using ACR headsets on either the 099 or other similar VBs, did you use the VB fork crown race, or the FSA one?
Both seem a bit sharp. Is adding a single layer of fiberglass tape to the steerer to stop them digging in going to interfere with bearing clearance, or should be fine?
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To those using ACR headsets on either the 099 or other similar VBs, did you use the VB fork crown race, or the FSA one?
Both seem a bit sharp. Is adding a single layer of fiberglass tape to the steerer to stop them digging in going to interfere with bearing clearance, or should be fine?
I tried them both, didn't notice much functional difference. I stuck with the stock crown race mostly because it's the same color as the frame.
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Finally managed to get rid of all my headset play! Rode about 400km with the play, it was only noticeable when lifting up the frame near the headtube. Tiny 1 or 2mm of movement. I still have the original velobuild c-clip which was always too short. I had a mountain bike bottom bracket spacer in there a temporary fix and it worked ok. Replaced it with some microspacers from FSA.
Ended up using a full pack of these https://www.theinsideline.ca/fsa-micrspacer-headset-spacer-025mm-bag-f-10.html I just snipped a couple mm of each out so I could bend them onto the steerer tube.
I also picked up an extra-large compression plug: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B083G48R5D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1&psc=1
Then I also switched up my technique. Instead of using the bike stand I had it on the trainer so the front wheel was on the ground. This made it much easier to squish everything down and make sure it was solid while tightening the compression plug. I also cut a slit into the crown race when I first built up the bike because I didn't have the proper tool to bang it down onto the steerer. That might have been the cause of my issues, the bottom bearing wasn't interfacing correctly because the race wasn't all the way on. Either way it's great now. There's a 1mm or less gap between the headtube and bottom headset spacer thing. The bike feels so much better too, no more sketchy front movement under braking or going over bumps.
Of course I also ordered the fsa acr headset, which still hasn't shown up but I guess I'll have a spare couple bearings.
I also haven't received my straight seat post and new c-clip yet. Ordered it at the end of May-ish, so maybe they'll be here soon? Next on my list is to replace the vb handlebars with ones that fit me a bit better, and replace the cheap brake housing with compressionless.
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Are the straight seatposts still available for purchase ? My friend rides the ltk-268 which isbthe same frame, and would love to reduce the reach!
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Probably? Just send velobuild an e-mail. Apparently mine was returned and they sent it again today/yesterday lol.
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New to this forum and this frame looks amazing! However Velobuild doesn't sell this anymore so it seems? :)
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Buy it from longteng. Its the ltk-268
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Buy it from longteng. Its the ltk-268
Thanks mate!
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New to this forum and this frame looks amazing! However Velobuild doesn't sell this anymore so it seems? :)
If you email them to ask about availability they may have it
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Straight seatpost finally showed up. Looks pretty good! Haven't gone on any rides with it yet, first one tomorrow. They also forgot to send me the new compression ring, at least my micro-spacer solution has been holding up fine.
(https://i.imgur.com/4Ci9QmX.jpg)
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For people who ordered the zero offset seatpost, how much does it reduce the reach?
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Just letting people know the zero offset seatpost for the 099 fits the LTK268. They are the same frame.
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Hi guys. I am new on this forum and really enjoy it. Recieved my R-099's last month. Building up a size 52 for my girl right now. Really happy with the size 54 I am riding. I am definetly willing to pay $50 for the zero offset mould.
Hi, for your ACR stem, was it easy to pass all four cables (front+rear breaks & front+rear derailleurs) through the stem bottom hole and into the handlebar middle hole?
Looks like in the FSA photos, only three cables are meant to go through the stem bottom hole.
Also what handlebar did you go with? Looks like on AliExpress there are not many options for handlebars with a middle hole compatible with this stem.
Thanks.
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You can go with these IIRC
Prime Doyenne Aero Handlebar
https://www.wiggle.com/prime-doyenne-aero-handlebar
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Great, thanks!
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Here's my build so far. Still suffering with the headset play issue though. I ordered some microspacers and hope this will take care of the problem.
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For people who ordered the zero offset seatpost, how much does it reduce the reach?
25mm the seat post from LTK268 has 25mm setback
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Hi, did you find out what's the correct top and bottom bearings to use for the VB-R-099? I am needing to replace them soon and would like to buy the spares before taking the front apart. Thanks.
So I guess I wasn't the only one that had issues with my top bearings, so I feel much better now.. :D. I'm guessing you have the same frame and ended up buying the new headset, were the inner and outer angles 45/45 degrees or 36/45 ?
I'm looking to buy new headset bearings from here https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32991982476.html?algo_exp_id=be3dbb5a-973b-4573-97d0-1c621e580a8e-0&algo_pvid=be3dbb5a-973b-4573-97d0-1c621e580a8e&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2266880025677%22%7D&spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.7993450btvj3Pz&af=1011943&afref=&cv=47843&dp=4e67870165b5b1c932cb60b098189d7f&mall_affr=pr3&utm_campaign=1011943&utm_content=47843&utm_medium=cpa&utm_source=admitad&aff_fcid=6617341363a041c29cf8107688ac888e-1635715984986-06277-_ePNSNV&aff_fsk=_ePNSNV&aff_platform=portals-tool&sk=_ePNSNV&aff_trace_key=6617341363a041c29cf8107688ac888e-1635715984986-06277-_ePNSNV&terminal_id=0de686744d79417dba06dd96895df1f7 (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32991982476.html?algo_exp_id=be3dbb5a-973b-4573-97d0-1c621e580a8e-0&algo_pvid=be3dbb5a-973b-4573-97d0-1c621e580a8e&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2266880025677%22%7D&spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.7993450btvj3Pz&af=1011943&afref=&cv=47843&dp=4e67870165b5b1c932cb60b098189d7f&mall_affr=pr3&utm_campaign=1011943&utm_content=47843&utm_medium=cpa&utm_source=admitad&aff_fcid=6617341363a041c29cf8107688ac888e-1635715984986-06277-_ePNSNV&aff_fsk=_ePNSNV&aff_platform=portals-tool&sk=_ePNSNV&aff_trace_key=6617341363a041c29cf8107688ac888e-1635715984986-06277-_ePNSNV&terminal_id=0de686744d79417dba06dd96895df1f7)
It seems like Options Q and R are similar to T and T1, with the width being the difference (8mm vs 7mm)..
Which would be recommended for this frame? The Q and R or the Ts or even the U? Too many choices that are slightly different. :-\
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Hi! Has anyone built the frame with di2, and if so, how did you mount the battery?
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Hi! Has anyone built the frame with di2, and if so, how did you mount the battery?
In this respect I don't imagine it being too different than the 168. I put the battery in the seat tube of my 168 with a small amount of packing foam to secure it in place
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Here's my build so far. Still suffering with the headset play issue though. I ordered some microspacers and hope this will take care of the problem.
So did you solve the problem?
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Here’s a build I did for a friend.
I was overall very impressed by the quality of the frame.
The BB was nicely finished and I measured it to be consistently round and within spec. It seemed to have been machined to spec.
I did have the headset play issue. It’s really just the stupid compression ring making things complicated. One micro spacer solved the issue. I’m also very impressed by the bars. Routing was easy. Finish is nice. Very stiff. Too bad they don’t come in more sizes.
We had some issues with the seatpost slipping. I’ll probably have to add some tape. And I had to face the brake mounts. It was pretty laborious to get the thing rub free.
The discs were also not 100% true which didn’t help.
I’ll post my thoughts on the LTWOO RX12 in the respective thread. Some positives, some negatives. And I can’t get the RD to index flawlessly. Very annoying.
Final weight as pictured including pedals and cages is 8.6kg
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And I had to face the brake mounts. It was pretty laborious to get the thing rub free.
Did you face the brake mounts yourself?
Do you have the proper tooling or how did you approach this?
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For people who ordered the zero offset seatpost, how much does it reduce the reach?
I do not think seatpost adjustement or setback is used to change reach. The seatpost is adjusted so that the ball of your foot is above the pedal axle with the crank arm in horizontal position.
Having the saddle too far back or front will create issues, so the saddle position creates comfort and efficiency for pedaling.
For adjusting reach and stack you will modify the stem and bar.
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Did you face the brake mounts yourself?
Do you have the proper tooling or how did you approach this?
No. I don't have a proper facing tool, unfortunately. I really only sanded it down carefully by hand and checked regularly if the adapter was properly flat on the frame surface. So I did not properly face it. It was obvious however what was causing the issue. There was excessive paint on one side that I sanded off. Especially on the rear brake mount.
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Nice build! Does anyone know if the fork needs an adapter to use 160mm rotor?
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Nice build! Does anyone know if the fork needs an adapter to use 160mm rotor?
That depends more on the specific brakes you’re using than your frame. With most brake calipers you you can direct mount them to the frame to use them with 140mm rotors and you need an adapter to use 160 or bigger. With others like LTWOO you need an adapter regardless of the rotor size.
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I have just recieved a LTK268D/VBR-99 and i am really struggling with routing the full outer FD cable into the grommet on the frame, any tips on how to do this?
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I have just recieved a LTK268D/VBR-99 and i am really struggling with routing the full outer FD cable into the grommet on the frame, any tips on how to do this?
Use one of those routing kits...
On my last build I thought I could just do it with some brake cable I had lying around, but the outer cable kept on hitting the edge of the hole so would not go through. I struggled for 30 min. Than I took my routing kit and it went trough the hole immediately...
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Than I took my routing kit and it went trough the hole immediately...
Will try this with my wife tonight. Thanks
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If you have a front derailleur with a cable stop (like 105) you can just dremel out the built in cable guide hole so housing fits through. Much easier to deal with and less fiddly.
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If you have a front derailleur with a cable stop (like 105) you can just dremel out the built in cable guide hole so housing fits through. Much easier to deal with and less fiddly.
This is what i was thinking of doing. Much more watertight aswell I think.
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If you have a front derailleur with a cable stop (like 105) you can just dremel out the built in cable guide hole so housing fits through. Much easier to deal with and less fiddly.
I didnt want to dremel my FD so dremeled some Jagwire cable ends instead, they fitted quite securely and saves 'ruining' your FD.
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He's dremeling the part on the frame, not FD so the whole cable housing can pass thru and then use built-in cable stopper of the FD. On my VB frame though the hole is large enough as it is to pass housing till the FD, no need to dremel. May be 099 is different.
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Here’s a build I did for a friend.
...
Just curious, what are the little things attached to the spokes?
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Just curious, what are the little things attached to the spokes?
Those are just stickers from the spoke manufacturer Pillar.
He will probably remove them soon. ;)
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Those are just stickers from the spoke manufacturer Pillar.
He will probably remove them soon. ;)
Yup. The bike had not yet been ridden when I took the pics.
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I didnt want to dremel my FD so dremeled some Jagwire cable ends instead, they fitted quite securely and saves 'ruining' your FD.
I mean this part to dremel. At least on my frame it's just compression fit with a little bolt. Unscrew it and it pops out.
https://i.imgur.com/ziZHkDs.png
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I mean this part to dremel. At least on my frame it's just compression fit with a little bolt. Unscrew it and it pops out.
https://i.imgur.com/ziZHkDs.png
I just drilled mine out so I can now pass the outer through it. I initially drilled it with a 4mm bit, then a 5. I found upon installing that there is small lip on the inside of the frame that was fouling the cable. To remedy this I used a small file to add a little chamfer to the inside of the cable guide. It's a tight but perfect fit.
https://imgur.com/a/JZu8DD0
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I’m trying to install my new Shimano 105 12 spd crankset. I’m using the ztto thread-together bottom bracket. It seems like it’s making the bb too wide for the cranks. Have anyone successfully installed Shimano cranks with this bb?
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I used this ztto bb: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33023047002.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.81.25791802wy98FE
Worked with R7000 105 cranks so it should work with the new ones too? Did take quite a bit of force to get it completely seated.
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Yeah, that’s the same I have. I’m missing 0,5-10mm for the safety pin to drop..
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Hard to tell from the pictures. Did you try taking the crank arm bolts out completely and the little lock clip off and then pressing on the crank arm? Maybe it's a little tight or something.
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Hard to tell from the pictures. Did you try taking the crank arm bolts out completely and the little lock clip off and then pressing on the crank arm? Maybe it's a little tight or something.
Yes, it works when the crank is off!
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So after a lot of trial and error I ended up switching to a Shimano bb and it worked :)
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Dang, so the ZTTO bb is actually wider than Shimano BB?
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It wasn't because some seals were left stuck on the base of the crank arms? Sometimes there is a really low profile seal from a shimano BB install which gets stuck with grease to the crankarm/spindle. On the photo of the non-driveside crankarm it looks like it is sitting quite far out from the face of the bottom bracket.
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No, I had it in and out multiple times. Made sure the bb was fully screwed in and drive side all the way through. With my last crank I lost the lock nut multiple times. So I installed the old one to see how far through the spindle went, and the case was the same. I just didn’t know before the Shimano security pin on the new crankset
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Here is my VBR-099, build completed just in time for the weather becoming crap in the UK.
I bought the frame 2nd hand from ebay (£350) and lifted the parts from my bowman palace.
Interestingly the brand "Fire" up-sells the frameset for £2800 here https://ridefire.cc/collections/ignite
The frame itself was easy to work with. I had more problems with odd little things breaking with my old parts.
Im now just sitting staring at my bike in the garage waiting for a weather window :'(
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Nice, happy waiting...while you do so: what is the stem on this build?
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Nice, happy waiting...while you do so: what is the stem on this build?
I got it from the "thrust carbon bike store" on ali express. The bike came with the spacers and a 130mm version of that stem. Luckily I found the above store to buy a 100mm one. The quality of it is a bit meh, it was really tight to fit and I sanded it a bit haha.
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The cable stop plug (don't know what the official name is) is broken and I want it replaced. I can get a replacement from Chris but this will take a lot of time to get here. Does anyone know another webshop where i could order a similar part? Preferably a Eu based shop.
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The cable stop plug (don't know what the official name is) is broken and I want it replaced. I can get a replacement from Chris but this will take a lot of time to get here. Does anyone know another webshop where i could order a similar part? Preferably a Eu based shop.
I don't think you will find an EU replacement.
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I got it from the "thrust carbon bike store" on ali express. The bike came with the spacers and a 130mm version of that stem. Luckily I found the above store to buy a 100mm one. The quality of it is a bit meh, it was really tight to fit and I sanded it a bit haha.
Thanks for sharing, they are selling stem only - so the spacer hardware below the stem for the semi-integrated cable routing was part of the frame, already?
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Thanks for sharing, they are selling stem only - so the spacer hardware below the stem for the semi-integrated cable routing was part of the frame, already?
It came with the frame 2nd hand so I'm not sure if new. Maybe check and see if longteng make a similar stem spacer system as they also make the frame (intact mine is a longteng!)
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First ride complete, just a quick 20km. What can I say other than wow, it's stiffer and somehow more smooth than my aluminium bowman. This is the first carbon bike I've ridden disc and with 28mm tyres so I'm very impressed.
Just a few little setup niggles to iron out. I did a quick and dirty job on the FD so will take some time to do it properly.
Also shout out to the tiagra calipers, they work much better than the ltwoo ones do with the same 105 brifters.
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I don't think you will find an EU replacement.
Doesnt have to be the same system. Anything that fits will do for me.
But i have no idea where to look.