The Carbonda 707 might be an option. It's a longer frame than the 696 but has similar tire clearance.

Thanks for all the feedback! It's interesting how there's such a range of opinions on the cable/hydraulic brakes.


Anyways, I found a cheap used pair of Tektro MD-C550 calipers (OEM version of the TRP Spyre) on eBay so I'm going to give those a shot. I will make sure to get good compressionless housing. I figure they will be adequate for my short commute.

My CFR707 is completed, and here are some photos of the new bike.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/oeXM3WUUDXkVLBxz9

For the paint finish, I chose RAL5004 with added pearl sparkle. Its effect under sunlight is absolutely perfect, shining and dazzling. However, the paint finish details are not particularly perfect, with slightly sloppy transitions, and the overall paint quality is passable, probably at a 7.5/10 level.

The frame is a semi-internal routing version, and I opted for the UDH hanger, which allows for maximum upgrade potential in the future without sacrificing support for standard derailleurs. The frame craftsmanship is flawless, with smooth inner walls. The only issue is that the cable guide cannot be fully inserted into the frame, which is related to my assembly sequence, and I can't solely blame Carbonda for the problem.

For the drivetrain, I chose the L-twoo GR9 hydraulic groupset. So far, it has been working well with precise shifting. I paired it with Shimano UR300 calipers and 180mm rotors for strong braking power. I also used the mineral brake fluid from EZmtb. They claim that this mineral brake fluid, labeled as #6, offers a lighter feel and can handle higher working temperatures compared to Shimano's original brake fluid. I will continue using this combination until any significant issues arise.

The complete configuration is listed in the last image, with all prices in Chinese Yuan and excluding shipping costs.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/EyXH5r7nxEqRB6zd7

It's beautiful! Good to know that the 2.0 Race Kings will fit. What is the internal width of your rims? I have Maxxis Ramblers in 700x50 mm on 24 mm rims (internal width) and there's a bit of clearance but I wouldn't go too much bigger.

I ordered a plain matte finish, if that is what you are curious about. It was pretty much flat black with very little (if any) carbon texture visible.

Hi everyone!
I'm considering to buy 707 for my dream build and wondering whether some of you guys asked Carbonda for a small modifications on the frame? For example I'd like to lower bottle cage mount points on the seat tube (and down tube maybe?), so I don't need to use any cage adapters etc. I understand that it may interfere with front derailleur, but I'm going to go with 1x wireless AXS, so don't really care about it.

PS. I have a On-One Free Ranger, which is in fact Carbonda CFR696 and I really like it. One of the reasons why I like 707 is that it has full internal cable routing, and going wireless with it seem a good idea to me 

I didn't ask for any modifications to my frame. What is your concern with the mounting locations? I can fit two full size bottles easily with the standard mount locations, although I do have an XL frame.

If you've had to do that much maintenance in so few miles I don't think the hubs are up for the job. My last 240 was fine evern after 10k miles and no service and require a single bearing replacement at that point.

I bought some chiner hubs last year and they were shite, looked good though mind you.

I've relubed the ratchet twice. The first time was when it was new and I wanted to ensure it was properly lubed. The second was when I was chasing down a creaking noise that turned out to be a cassette issue. The hub hasn't given me any cause for alarm. I'm 95kg and like to ride up some really steep stuff, so I've given them a pretty good workout so far.

I ran full housing for the rear derailleur past the bottom bracket and out the chainstay. For the front derailleur, I ran the housing to the stopper in that little rectangular plastic piece under the bottom bracket and then just the inner to the derailleur. I  used a bit of the plastic guide that came with the frame to line the last little bit of the cable and hopefully keep dirt off.

Shifting has been good after getting it dialed in. The tension in the front derailleur cable holds that plastic part in, so I couldn't pull it out for the picture without having to loosen the cable at the derailleur.

I'm glad I opened it up for the picture. It looks like once of the inserts for the cover bolts is corroding so I will have to grease it really good.