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Re: Affordable forks with 36mm stanchions Not that bad for a made in America fork  :o
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001935469860.html

March 17, 2021, 12:25:10 PM
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Re: LCFS947 - 160mm 4-bar 27+/29 I hope to receive my frame this week. I am also waiting for my rear shock, a Marzocchi Bomber CR Trunnion. Now  when I think about it im a bit nervous, will the spring-shock fit into the frame :-o

Images coming up........

March 22, 2021, 09:42:02 AM
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Re: LCFS947 - 160mm 4-bar 27+/29 All things now put together.  I have a 120 mm dropper-post, I will most likely replace it with a 150 mm, there is space for it. The Marzocchi Bomber CR is a bit difficult to get in place and to adjust the spring compared to a air damper, the coil works against me. But when all adjustments are done its no problem, then the Marzocchi fight is over. I  haven't taken the bike into the woods yet, but my first impression is that it fells a lot like my LCFS958.

Hopefully all adjustments are done before next weekend so that the first trail test can take place.

April 06, 2021, 01:59:28 AM
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Re: Stumpjumper clone So, I finally after much back and forth bought this frame from AWST at the end of April and it arrived today in Muscat, Oman.  ;D

I got them to ship to Hong Kong (free) and from there via Aramex Shop and Ship to Oman for US$50 with no VAT or other taxes applied. RESULT :D

Still waiting for the wheels though... Also, the service wasn't great. Even taking into account language barriers. Threats were made to recall the frame and charge double for shipping again etc. All because they failed to request an extension to the automated shipping date and a refund was processed. Ultimately, I could have gotten the frame for free as it had already shipped from Aramex by the time they raise the issue to me. They also missed their promised shipping date, 9 May, for everything by 10 days. I did pay again and the wheels are still not shipped but hey ho...

So here are a couple of photos:




Overall, I'm pretty impressed with the build and the quality of the finish, with no imperfections, but, a little over run on the BB etc. It will be partially repainted to have a gloss black rear triangle and partial front triangle al a Specialized. I'm doing this locally as they wanted a small fortune for the dual colour.

I'll weigh the frame and components tonight and post then. Frame is size L.

Then once done I'll start assembling the bike. No rush as its 40C/104F outside now... >:(

Cheers All


Guy

May 27, 2021, 03:50:40 AM
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Re: Full suspension AM ~140mm chiner for virgin builder.
...The only other fault i found is the "lip" for upper bearing in the headtube there is some strange chipping. I don't think its an huge problem as it's not huge and to my eyes it's anyway not made of fibers, so it should not be structural...

Contact the seller with the picture to warn them now.
And just check after a few months, if it stayed in the same state.
Most probably it will, but if not, dealing with the pain of warranty at that time.

June 15, 2021, 03:04:02 AM
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Re: Softail titanium MTB 29/27.5+ (all mountain - bikepacking)
What is this intriguing bottle ?
Isn't it too hard to pump up water from that low ?

It's a hydration hose with bottle cap adaptor so you can use it on PET bottles & etc. I use to have that too, I remember they even have adaptor caps for wide & narrow mouth Nalgene bottles. You just suck it like a long straw. I believe the length of the hose is (unless modified) pretty much the same lenght as those with hydration bladder placed inside a backpack.

Here's one...
https://sourceoutdoor.com/en/accessories/22-convertube-hydration-system

July 01, 2021, 07:47:14 AM
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Re: Waltly Ti gravel bike build Frame without axle weights 1,885 grams. Definitely not a light weight but I won't have to worry about the frame getting beat up.
July 14, 2021, 07:01:06 AM
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Re: The Shiny New AM831 Group Buy (A) Thread! It is worth showing the link assembly issues with pictures rather than just words to get the message better across, so I've drawn some (not to scale, dimensions exaggerated, showing the principles).

This is the 831 assembly of the upper link to one of the rear triangle eyelets, as far as I could make it out. Grey is the aluminum link, black the carbon triangle, blue the ball bearing and pink the screw. The screw presses the inner race of the bearing against the link, so the screw and inner race are one piece with the link. There is some clearance between the screw head and the triangle so that the parts can rotate with respect to each other.





This assembly would be alright if the two eyelets of the triangle (only one shown) were perfectly rigid relative to each other, but that is not the case. So, what prevents the outer bearing from sliding out of the triangle eyelet (to the left) is in practice only the press force of the outer bearing race in the eyelet, as Maffly stated.

Inevitably, when the triangle is submitted to lateral forces, the bearing will end up sliding to this position, where the eyelet contacts the screw head, and rubs against it as the triangle and link rotate relative to each other. After a while, clearance may build up between the outer race and the eyelet, whereby the bearing will move freely in and out... The rubbing with the screw head will cause wear and potentially loosen the screw...





The situation wouldn't be improved if the bearing were pressed from the outside. The bearings should be in the link, not the triangle, as per the SC assembly shown below.





Yellow is a tube for taking up some of the axial force exerted on the bearings by the screw. Here, the bearings are mounted in the link and rely on the rigidity of the link between the two eyelets. The bearings cannot slide out.

Dammit, the 831 link and triangle need to be redesigned!!

A not too drastic redesign would be to provide something for keeping the bearing in the eyelet, such as a retainer ring.

What about the assembly of the lower link to the triangle? I haven't looked close at that yet.

November 29, 2021, 04:10:44 AM
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Re: The Shiny New AM831 Group Buy (A) Thread!
I don't like that lower link, but I prefer V1 to V2. The lower link V1 is not as bad as the upper link, because the bearings are rigidly coupled to each other in aluminum, and the carbon chain stays are in a region where they will not flex much relative to each other, guaranteeing a substantially constant width in the link area, i.e. the flex won't tend to pull out the bearings from their recesses as much as in the upper link.
That is exactly my idea: in the lower area there is less flex and even less after we will lock the upper; and, as you say, the bearings are in the alluminium so it is much more difficult to move them.
After  implementing your mod IMHO the frame should be enough safe and durable. Your solution is an engineering solution, the haideli one is just "houston we have a problem let's make everything bigger just in case"; and is very expensive too.

December 15, 2021, 08:08:23 AM
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Re: Carbonda FM 1003 / Flybike FM 1266 180mm "Super Enduro" Frame delivered  :D :D

Top quality! Very happy

February 24, 2022, 06:57:44 PM
1