Yes, that's another thing I don't like about the fat bikes, everything is proprietary requiring wider bottom brackets, wider hubs, forks, rims, etc.  So can't use any of the piles of parts I've accumulated over the years.  Get the 057 or if you can get up the scratch go for the Ip 036 full squish....awesome bike!

Well I already have the three year old Rumblefish for the full squish, so thinking hardtail, at least to start. Have thought about the FS bike in 650b for my wife, she's decided that 26" is "dead like Elvis" and it'd be nice to have a better backup bike than her now maligned 26er. But first, a backup bike for me that is slightly more versatile than my 26er singlespeed.

Again, your eye is impeccable. They are BB30 cranks. I just hope everything is in pretty good shape. He said it came off of a `14 Spec Enduro, so I know they are only a year old. And I get a front shifter in case I ever want to go to 2x10.

Parts start rolling in this week (brakes on Monday, fork on Wednesday), so I'm pretty excited!

Sweet! Looking forward to seeing the build!

As an aside, I did jump to thru axles for both wheels, that just made sense to me, even though it is slightly heavier.  I always hated having to fiddle with aligning my QR wheels.  I don't notice any difference in stiffness, thru axles are just more convenient, easier to remove and install the wheels.

Yeah, dunno how much the stiffness is actually improved, (or if most folks could really feel the difference) but I like the concept, but I _really_ like the ease of reinstalling the wheels.  With QR wheels I usually pop the bike out of the stand and set the QRs with the bike on the ground and weight on it.  With thru-axles, you put the wheel in, put in the axle, _done_.

Coming into this late, so you might have made your decision, but re: XT vs SLX, my Rumblefish came with all SLX back in 2011, and I figured, no worries, I'll upgrade to XT as things go.  Well, it's been a couple years, that bike's had all types of use, and I am now a massive fan of SLX. In fact, there are some ways that I personally prefer SLX to XT/XTR, having had the chance to ride both higher groups on other bikes. Now, obviously, that's not to say that if you went with XT you've done badly, I love the Shimano stuff.  I'm just surprised _how_ good the new SLX is.  I would say without reservation that new SLX is notably better than XTR from only a couple of years ago.  Seriously.

Re: the Flows, those things are freakin' bomber. Depending on your weight, they're probably far more than you need.  I once hit a 3" raised concrete lip at about 20mph hard enough to double-pinch flat a Kenda Small Block 8 (not the thinnest sidewall, either) and the rim showed _nothing_ after the fact.  Just happened to catch it, you can just see the edge on the little bridge at the beginning of the video:

I've been running an Arch wheelset as well for a couple years, and even those have been bombproof, and the Arch EX should be even moreso. I'm 210-220lbs just for reference.  Even the Crests are surprisingly strong, but if you're in my weight class, they might not be _quite_ enough. Although it's not cheap, I think a Stan's ZTR/Hope Pro wheelset is close to the perfect MTB wheelset.  No experience with the Chiner carbon rim wheels, at least not yet.

cmh- looks like you have a great eye! I zoomed in on one of the other photos an it is labeled type 2. Made my day! Now I gotta find some great deals on some wheels.

I'd say it should make your day!  You got the parts you needed for about what I just paid for an XT Shadow Plus derailleur. (by itself)

Don't know if the type of the cranks is listed, and I can't really tell if that's a BB30 or GXP crank, (looks BB30, I think) but if it's a GXP, you can get a conversion kit to run it with your BB30 frame.

Also, whatever sealant you end up with, don't make a habit of buying those small bottles as it's far more costly than the big bottles and you will need to refill the wheels frequently for best results (I average every 3 to 4 months).

^ this, totally, although hang onto the small bottles, they're the right size for one "dose" of sealant and perfect for injecting the sealant after pulling the valve as you've already found.  I refill mine from the big bottle.

I don't know if the RD is a type 2, but for 60 bucks for all that, I'll give it a try.

I'm not as well versed in the SRAM parts, but sure looks like the type 2 - you can see the extra button slightly to the lower right of the jockey pulley cage pivot which locks the derailleur forward for wheel changes.  Think you totally scored on that one!

Gotta watch out if you shake and listen.  If your Stan's goop has dried up and created the dreaded "Stan's Man" or, my favorite term - the "Stanimal" - then you might hear it rattling around in there and think you've got liquid.  Obviously the sound of a little rubber critter rattling around is different than liquid sloshing, but if you've never seen a Stanimal, you might not realize it.