another question. Does anyone know what the torsional rigidity of the frame is in N / m? wondered how much harder or softer it is than a spark

Hi Folks,
inspired by colt_seaver's building thread in a german forum, i spent the last days reading all 72 pages of this thread (who needs netflix? )
I like the FM936 more and more... already have a spreadsheet set up to calculate price and weight of a bike based on this frame.

I stumbled across a few comments about poor climbing performance.
I am a fast tourer and marathon rider and my current "do it all" bike is a not-so-light carbon hardtail (IP-256SL if sb knows). I really like steep uphill challenges and eating altitude meters.
Problem is, i am a total coward going downhill: The smallest feel of sliding or the rear wheel getting light leads to a complete mental blockade. To overcome that, i think about using a more down-country or even trailbike-oriented bike. As i have a very long torso for my size, most common bikes on the market would be too short for me, so the FM936 should be just right for me.
Thing is, i don't really want to sacrifice uphill performance. So hands down, how much worse is the FM936's uphill performance compared to a hardtail?
Do you think the FM936 will meet my needs, i.e. giving me a fast touring resp. marathon bike with much more downhill confidence?

Is it worth the effort (money/weight) to have a rear shock remote lockout? I like standing up in the pedals for spontaneous give-it-all sprints. The only full suspension i rode the last years was a Giant Reign 2, wich was an absolute pain in the ass in this discipline (yes, different bike category).

Also, does sb have an idea how much weight is saved by opting for SL in size XL? Can i expect 200 g?
colt_seavers had 2182 g including rear axle for a standard XL.
I try to figure out where to save the most weight for the least money. Sub 11 kg with dropper post would be nice, but budget is limited.

with open compression of the fork and shock absorber is worse than a hardtail by 10-15%. For sprints, of course, you need a lock. In general, the frame rides better than a hardtail, thanks to the steep angle of the seat tube it is much easier to ride upwards, the bike is very stable and comfortable downwards. I had to readjust my inner sense of speed, the carbonda seems to be slower, but it is faster, all because it does not shake. Highly recommend the frame for XC, with remote locking it will be a beast

its my carbonda)

Anyone have a problem with suspension bolts and axles?

Yesterday I unscrewed the bolt in the rear triangle((

Are you able to take a measurement level from the trunnion bolt level. To the frame?

The dvo topaz 2 shock with piggy back  uses 1.6 inches of space from the trunnion bolt.   If this frame has less, the dvo wont fit. The frame will block the shock rebound dial.

I am asking as i have a topaz and was thinking if i can use this for this frame in the future.

So if you can take another measurement, it be graet

2 inches

what do you mean about Fox? sorry

Nice ride! looks light!

changed the repair kit or without service it works fine

Finished the build! Too bad winter has come a bit early and won't be able to ride till the spring now. Build specs:

- Size Large Frame; custom painted "Chrome Green"
- Shimano XT 12spd
- Shimano XT brakes
- E*thirteen XCX iW28 rims
- Bontrager XR4/XR3 tires
- RaceFace Next R cranks (170mm)
- RaceFace Next Handlebar (760mm)
- RaceFace Stem - 50mm
- OneUp Dropper (210mm)
- Giant Contact Seat
- Fox 34 SC 120mm, 44mm offset
- Fox DPS Float 42.5mm (the one everyone was buying on ebay)

The bathroom scale test (me with bike, me without bike) says 27lbs, but I sure hope that's wrong cause my spec sheet says it should be around 25lbs based on listed weights + 1lb buffer. Will have to get to a bike shop to properly weigh it. I spent about $5200 CAD on this, but did have some access to pro deals for RaceFace and Fox gear. Bought a bunch of the Shimano stuff on AliExpress a few months back before the prices started climbing.

looks great!