Chinertown
Chinese Carbon MTB => 29er => Topic started by: Sussed. on July 07, 2014, 03:45:20 AM
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Hi All,
Thought I’d share my build as I have enjoyed seeing everyone elses !
I have been working abroad since December and knew I would have some time off over the summer decided to build up a full-suss 29er. After test riding some mid to top end Whyte and Orange bikes my old Trek hardtail felt like a tank. So naturally I ended up with a Chiner build !
I have been ordering parts from far and wide trying to keep costs down as component prices here in the UK seem somewhat more expensive ! Parts have come from China, US, Germany. Austria and UK. Parents who had been taking delivery were quite relieved when I got back to take the mountain of boxes off their hands.
I ordered the carbon parts through Peter at Iplay because of the strong recommendations on here and other forums. I can only echo everyone elses sentiments, Iplay get good feedback for a good reason, quick comms and swift delivery ! No issues with packaging, everying well bubble wrapped with extra padding where needed. As other people have commented, I thought the boxes were empty they are so light !
I have only one issue with the flat bars and that is the fact that the ‘grip tape’ for the stem is off centre by a few MM. No biggie, once the stem is on and centred there is only a few mm showing to one side. I can live with it.
Main build components are –
FRAME – IP-036
SEAT POST – IPSP5
FLAT BAR – IP-B05
WHEELS – IP-M930C WITH NOVATEC HUBS
SHIFTER – SRAM XX1 GRIP SHIFT
CASSETTE – SRAM XG 1199
CHAIN – SRAM PC XX1
REAR MECH – SRAM XX1
CRANKS – SRAM XX1 BB30 QF 168 175MM
CHAIN RING – SRAM XX1 32T
BB – SRAM BB30
TYRES – SCHWALBE RR EVO SNAKESKIN
FORK - FOX 32 FLOAT CTD REMOTE 100MM
REAR SHOCK – FOX FLOAT CTD REMOTE 165MM
BRAKES – FORMULA RX (160MM ROTORS)
SEAT – FIZIK GOBI XM MANGANESE
HEADSET – CANE CREEK IS52/42 40 SERIES
STEM – RACE FACE 100MM
PEDALS – CRANK BROS EGBEATER II
Most of the components are here, just waiting on a few crucial bits.
BB and headset should be with me today. I held off on ordering them until I had checked ID on shell and tube to be sure I was getting the right size.
I am also waiting on the Rear shock and pedals as they are coming from the US. Ordered online to a friend in Arizona who has then chucked them in with a company shipment to another friend who works a few miles away ! The cost saving on the shock was massive, over $250. So worth the wait and the cost of a few beers !
My Formula RX brakes didn't come with any spares so after reading Carbon_Dudes helpful post on hose shortening I realised that I would need some olives and pins for when the time comes to route the cables ! Olives inbound.
I will try and keep this thread updated as I go on but as I am impatient I will no doubt just dive right in and smash it out ! ;)
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Dining room table promoted to workbench ! 8)
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Frame and seat looking lonely !
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Nice topic! I'm going to follow this topic.
I hope you parts will arrive soon.
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Cheers MTB !
I see that you have started your build too !
Race ? ;D
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Seat Post Clamp Issue !
I remember reading others have had slight problems with the height of the seat tube and the clamp not seating fully down. I couldnt find it on this forum so any thoughts would be appreciated.
Basically the seat post clamp doesn't sit fully down -
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/60022025/Seat%20Clamp.jpg)
Is it something that needs sorting ? The only fix would be a narrower seat clamp I assume !
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It's possible that you have a wide seat clamp, what is the thickness of the clamp compared to the clamp area of the frame?
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Well that's exactly what mine looks like. I was actually going to post about it like you just did but forgot all about about it. I've had no issues so far. A narrower clamp won't help bc it still won't seat all the way down.
I say don't worry about it unless you have slippage issues, which I predict that you won't.
Looking like an awesome build!
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The height of the clamp is 17mm, when seated there is about 6mm between top of seat tube and top of clamp.
The post clamps down well and evenly, there doesn't seem to be any undue pressure points and minimal play. Obviously i haven't sat down on it yet but with a bit of paste and a few more turns on the clamp I don't anticipate slippage.
Knowing that Im not the only one Sitar makes me feel a lot more comfortable about it !
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Sussed, aren't you afraid to over tighten your seat clamp? You've a seat clamp with a handle. 5 - 6 nm is the max.
About the 6 mm unused seat clamp. Maybe you can filled that up with a tin rubber strip, to avoid mud between your seat clamp and seat post. And maybe this will give some extra resistance.
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I am always afraid to over tighten things MTB ! Especially on a new carbon frame !
However, the post is a very snug fit in the tube, there is no room for anything to crush.
Good point on the mud ! I will have root around and see if i have anything to fill the gap.
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However, the post is a very snug fit in the tube, there is no room for anything to crush.
That was what I thought also, but I've got a different experience.
At the carbon frame of my daughter, the LBS over tighten the seat clamp a little. This results in crack like the way on the picture (I don't have a real picture of the crack, but this one is like it was). The crack won't appear right away, but after some rides.
Unfortunately we couldn't proof it was the fault of the LBS, but we didn't change anything of the settings... But a good carbon repairer did a good job.
I don't wanna scare you, but be aware.
(http://s25.postimg.org/fx0ui7ltr/5pjm.jpg)
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That is scary. Hopefully with some carbon paste and no more than 5 N-m of torque, the clamp will work correctly and the frame will not develop any cracks.
The fact that you stated the seatpost is a snug fit is very good news, less likely any type of crack would develop.
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So the BB and Headset arrived a few hours ago !
Offered up the Upper and Lower bearings to the steerer tube and the Upper dropped in fine with a small amount of pressure. The lower was much tighter and needed a tap with rubber mallet and popped in with no problems.
My forks came off a showroom bike so they were already cut and star nut installed. That has kind of limited my ability to set up exactly as I want but it has saved me a few minutes with a saw !
i was going to get the LBS to seat the crown race, along with the BB but being impatient I nipped off to the shed and made up a polypipe seating tool ! The pipe I had was too small to get down to the bottom but I had an inline coupler which with the inserts removed sat on the race and bearing nicely. A few taps and that was done !
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/60022025/Polypipe%20Crown%20Seating%20Toool%20!.jpeg)
It took a few attempts to get the amount of spacers between stem and upper just right but everything is on aligned, turning smoothly and with (eventually !) no play.......
Top tip - Do not align your stem and forks then tighten up before screwing down the Pre-load bolt on the top cap ! Took me a while to figure out why i couldn't get the slack out....... ;)
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So forks are on. Next was to align the handlebar and install the Gripshift and left hand grip.
All straightforward. However it has dawned on me that the Gripshift is considerably longer than the other grip. This means the rear brake is going to sit further away from the left hand, leaving a space between grip and brake. This may be the best place for the remote lever. Im going to start on the cockpit now so I can offer things up to see what is going to work best.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/60022025/Forks%20Handlebar%20On.jpeg)
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I would think you would put the remote lockout lever on the opposite side of the Gripshift then space the brake levers the same. One of the reasons I moved away from the XX1 Gripshift when I had it was I could not setup the brake levers where I wanted them, basically the same problem you are describing.
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After mocking up the cockpit the brakes are little more inboard than i would like but easily reachable. The remote is sat between the brake and left hand grip at a comfortable distance. On the stand it feels fine and look great !
If I have any issues when its completed it seems its easily changed by cutting down a right hand grip to your preferred length and moving the brakes further inboard. Did you consider this Carbon_Dude or decided it wasn't going to work for you regardless ?
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I will start my build with a gripshift too in a couple of weeks.
Could you post a picture on how this looks assembled?
It will alleviate my impatience :)
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Hi Carbonazza,
What are you planning on building ?
The cockpit as it is at the moment. Fine tuning when its rolling.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/60022025/Cockpit%201.jpeg)
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It looks good indeed. Thanks for sharing your build!
My HM-256 should have been(or was) shipped today.
When it reaches Hong Kong the tracking number should be ok.
If you dig a bit in this forum, you will find it is the same as an IP-256 but built by Honsen Bikes.
An XX1 set, a Lefty, Hope brakes and carbon rim's wheels will all wait I come back from vacations to start.
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After mocking up the cockpit the brakes are little more inboard than i would like but easily reachable. The remote is sat between the brake and left hand grip at a comfortable distance. On the stand it feels fine and look great !
If I have any issues when its completed it seems its easily changed by cutting down a right hand grip to your preferred length and moving the brakes further inboard. Did you consider this Carbon_Dude or decided it wasn't going to work for you regardless ?
At the time I had Avid Elixer Carbon brake levers which did not mate up well to the Gripshift. Later I switched out the Avid brakes with Shimano XT brakes, I doubt the XT brakes would have been any better since the levers are so short. My issue with the Gripshift was the fact that it is so long, it put my Avid levers too far inboard. Your Formula brakes look like whey should work better though.
I had other issues with the Gripshift, I will go back and find that info and post it later.
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I doubt the XT brakes would have been any better since the levers are so short.
You know of the existence of XT brakes with long levers? Long is the touring (fun) type, short is the race type. On my build I've got the short ones.
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Just a doubt, when checking again the picture.
Is it just while waiting, or do you invert the brake levers right-to-front, and left-to-rear?
Another question to everyone, does the internal routing can be hacked, to allow to cross the hose/cables in front of the bar?
Entering the rear derailleur cable from the left of the frame.
And the rear brake entering from the right of the frame.
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MTB2223, I've never seen anyone in the US selling XT brakes with longer levers. Doesn't matter now, the Gripshift was an experiment for me, I am quite happy with the XX1 trigger shifting.
Carbonazza, I can confirm that changing the internal routing of the cables would not be practical. There is tubing inside the frame that routes the cables from one opening to the other. I do not know if you can ask XMIplay to have the factory build a custom frame with different internal cable routing.
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Just a doubt, when checking again the picture.
Is it just while waiting, or do you invert the brake levers right-to-front, and left-to-rear?
My current Trek came with the brakes left/rear - right/front so it is what I'm used to. I will probably stick with it as long as the cable routing looks tidy ! (Thanks for reminding me, I need to check the Formulas are happy 'upside down')
Haven't done any work on the bike today. Should get the BB in tomorrow morning so I will hopefully get plenty done !
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Seat Post Clamp Issue !
I remember reading others have had slight problems with the height of the seat tube and the clamp not seating fully down. I couldnt find it on this forum so any thoughts would be appreciated.
Basically the seat post clamp doesn't sit fully down -
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/60022025/Seat%20Clamp.jpg)
Is it something that needs sorting ? The only fix would be a narrower seat clamp I assume !
Got my IP-256 today. First thing I did was checking the seat clamp. And it looks fine. Height of the seat clamp is 12mm ( on AliExpress (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/wholesale-taiwan-RONGDEXIN-seatpost-clamp-bike-seatposts-clamps-34-9-red/708765904.html) )
(http://s25.postimg.org/mz8vyn22n/image.jpg)
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Thanks MTB ! That looks like its more appropriate. I have had a look around for slimmer clamps and there are plenty of options. I was hoping to stay with QR as I chuck the bike in the back of car and need to remove the front wheel and lower the seat !
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Here is an old post on weight weenies about alternate grips for a gripshift.
http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=111890
It looks we can cut the grips to the size we want after all.
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Cheers Carbonazza ! Seems ESI chunky will do the job.
I have also been looking at cutting down the original grip. Cant really see an elegant way of doing it unless I lose the lock ring off the end.
I was also thinking about taking the grip off the sleeve, removing required section from the middle of the sleeve and cutting the same amount from the end of the grip. grip back on over the now two parts. This will retain the lock ring and the splines connecting it to the shifter housing.
Anyway, I will have a closer look at that another time !
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Where people drive on the left side of the street(UK, Australia, Japan,...)
The brakes are in fact inverted.
http://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/why-do-americans-british-use-opposite-brake-levers-623485.html
So your Trek and the new one are the norm where you live
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Have been a bit slack updating the build thread !
I took the frame to my LBS (rutlandcycling.com) and they installed the BB30 and also put the cassette on the hubs as I didn't have the tools for the job. The BB shell was nicely faced so went in smoothly.
Frame went back on the stand so got to work .......
Forks and Stem first, greased and thread locked relevant parts and no issues this time as I had already had all the spacing sorted.
Handlebar back on. Will make minor adjustments to the cockpit once its on two wheels.
Rear Shock. The correct bushings were ordered with the shock and these fitted between the mounts fine. The only issue was with one of the shock bolt sleeves. One sleeve fitted through bushings perfectly but the other wouldn't, after a quick file of the end of the sleeve I got rid of the burring that was preventing it pushing through the bushing. Sorted.
Cranks, Chainring, Pedals. Cranks straight on as per SRAM instructions with no problems.
Rear Deraillieur. Again, straightforward. Have just aligned the pulleys, further tweaks when its on two wheels.
Chain. Sized and shortened. Have used the SRAM Powerlock before on my old bike with no problem. This particular one gave me allsorts of grief !! I couldnt get it locked together then couldn't get it apart. Wasted too much time on that, but its on now.
CTD Remote, splitter and cable routing. Spent a while on this as I wanted it right. Cable routing to rear shock is straightforward through the frame but as Carbon_Dude and others have pointed out there is a 90 deg bend in the cable.
(http://chinertown.com/Users/AntonyKnobbs/Dropbox/Public/MB BUILD/Rear Shock Cable.jpg)
Cabling to fork was simple enough. Remote lever is a little stiff but operates well. Just a note on the cable splitter, its f##king ugly ! A very inelegant solution and I'm nut sure how long the housing will last. Time will tell......
Gripshift Cabliing. Housing routes nicely though the frame ! Cut to length then feed the cable down, bolt down onto RD. Job done.
I'm still waiting on olives for the brakes, I was hoping to get them today but the postman has already been ! I will wait for those to arrive before fitting and cutting the lines to size. I have noticed that the hoses are thicker than the normal housing. Has anyone had any difficulty running their hydraulic hoses internally ?
I am also waiting for a new front hub from Iplay. I ordered the wheels before I bought my fork, but I ended up with a different fork (ex showroom deal on Ebay). The new Novatec hub should've shipped but it may well be a week before I receive it and get the wheel rebuilt !
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Where people drive on the left side of the street(UK, Australia, Japan,...)
The brakes are in fact inverted.
http://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/why-do-americans-british-use-opposite-brake-levers-623485.html
So your Trek and the new one are the norm where you live
Interesting ! I have never given it much thought, I just thought it was personal preference !
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Where people drive on the left side of the street(UK, Australia, Japan,...)
The brakes are in fact inverted.
http://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/why-do-americans-british-use-opposite-brake-levers-623485.html
So your Trek and the new one are the norm where you live
Funny thing, here in the US, a motorcycle is setup with the right lever as the front brake (rear is a foot pedal). Which is how a motorcycle is setup everywhere in the world. However, we setup our bicycles as the left lever operating the front brake. For the US, it should make more sense to setup the bike like a motorcycle or like they do in the UK. I have no idea why the US is backwards when it comes to brake levers. Of course we drive on the "correct" side of the street though :).
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Of course we drive on the "correct" side of the street though :).
LOL. *draws sword !
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Hey Sussed, I ended up changing the cable routing for my rear shock and while I was at it, I changed the lockout lever. I didn't like the cable splitter that Fox offers and the lever was very stiff to operate. I went with a Scott Twin-Loc lever, so much nicer design. The lever is not only much easier to operate, it allows you to select the middle position (Trail) in both directions, engaging and disengaging the lockout.
Here are some pictures if you missed them in my IP-036 build:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v193/S2k_Dude/Carbon%20FS%2029er/twin-loc-lever-1.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/S2k_Dude/media/Carbon%20FS%2029er/twin-loc-lever-1.jpg.html)
I originally routed the shock lockout cable just like yours but this puts a stiff bend in the cable. So I flipped the remote lockout around at the shock, and looped the cable around. Seems to work a little smoother with less effort. Here is pic with the new cable routing:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v193/S2k_Dude/Carbon%20FS%2029er/29erwheelswap-2.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/S2k_Dude/media/Carbon%20FS%2029er/29erwheelswap-2.jpg.html)
While not perfect, I'm very happy with the Scott lever, and while the routing isn't perfect, it's been working fine.
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Love your build carbon, could look at those photos all day !
That twinloc lever and splitter is much more elegant than Foxs effort. I will give the Fox setup a chance but I can already see myself swapping it out !
While you're here, did you have any difficulty getting your hydro lines through the frame ? Mine are probably 5-6 mm thick and may be a tight fit into the frame !
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The Shimano hydraulic lines were no problem. I did spend some time with the R/D cable, initially I cut the housings and ran bare cable through the frame, I later figured out that for the IP-036, the full housing fits through the frame and is continuous all the way from the lever to the R/D. Other than that and the shock remote cable routing were the two things I spent some time working on.
If XMIplay, or whoever manufactures the frame, would just move the exit hole further away for the shock remote, like on the Scott Spark, I'd be even happier with the frame.
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The Shimano hydraulic lines were no problem. I did spend some time with the R/D cable, initially I cut the housings and ran bare cable through the frame, I later figured out that for the IP-036, the full housing fits through the frame and is continuous all the way from the lever to the R/D. Other than that and the shock remote cable routing were the two things I spent some time working on.
If XMIplay, or whoever manufactures the frame, would just move the exit hole further away for the shock remote, like on the Scott Spark, I'd be even happier with the frame.
Agree on the shock exit hole !
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Might not be the best solution but could you try a flexi v-brake noodle to make the routing to the rear shock smoother?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Acor-Adjustable-Stainless-flexable-noodle/dp/B001DHLOA4
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The noodle looks interesting. It may allow more options for routing the cable to the shock.
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So I'm still waiting on the Hub for the front wheel and Compression fittings for the brakes. Cue needless tinkering and additions ! ;D
Bought some of the All Mountain Frame Guard and added to the Down Tube and Seat Post. Went on really easily and moulds to the frame well especially around the curves at the bottom of the Down Tube. I had to cut a small square hole to get over the cable tie mount, simple enough.
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Needle Bearings for rear shock arrived. I only installed the one for the rear eyelet, so I now have a spare bushing and spare Bearing.
Installation was a pain, as I mentioned earlier one of the shock bolts is larger than the other so getting it in and out was hard work. After removing offending bolt again I got to work on it with some wet and dry paper and a power drill ! I put the bolt sleeve onto the drill with a 5mm Hex, wrapped the wet and dry paper around it and pulled the trigger ! After a few minutes of fine sanding holding the bolt sleeve in place and the drill doing all the work it is as finely honed and polished ! Now slides through the bearing housing perfectly......
Next was getting the bearing into the shock eyelet. The tolerances as expected were very fine so could only get the bearing a short way manually. A few taps with the Rubber persuader didn't help so off to the shed again.
Homemade Bearing Press......
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Hope Grip Doctor.
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So eventually the hub and olives arrived !
Brakes on (No issue running the hydro lines through the internal routing !)
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I took the hub and current wheel to the LBS to swap them over ! (Cheers Aaron)
A few days later it was ready so I headed up with the rest of the bike. Tyre on, wheel on......
Ready to ride.
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:)
First impressions were outstanding. Couldn't be happier. After a quick blast around the trail a few tweeks were needed.
Front wheel had an annoying squeak. Removed wheel and greased up bearings, end caps and axle. No more squeak !
I had to adjust the position of the onboard nut on the front axle so the QR closed in the correct upright position. Simple job that was well explained on the Fox website.
This frame is smaller than my last so I have set the seat further back to get into a familiar riding position. Just about there but I imagine I will tinker with that for a while. I have also lowered the angle of the seat as it was a touch to high.
A few minor adjustments were needed to the RD as the chain dropped of the big ring. Without a FD the setting up is very simple. Now shifts very crisply. Happy with the responsiveness of the Grip shift too.
Front and rear suspension shifts between modes nicely. Not a complete lockout in climb mode but I have got the settings very high so it is very firm. There will be an extra 10kgs on my back for the next 10 days ! (Bikepacking across the Hebrides)
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Nice to see you already have a lot of fun with your chiner!
Nice build. Like the white fork with the other white accents. Thumbs up!
Have fun on your bikepacking and ride safely.
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Sussed, you might want to check out the Scott Twin-Loc lever for your suspension, I really liked this lever over the standard fox lever and cable splitter.
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Nice build Sussed!!!! Can I aske how much it weighs? Thanks!
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Sussed, you might want to check out the Scott Twin-Loc lever for your suspension, I really liked this lever over the standard fox lever and cable splitter.
A friend at the LBS is hopefully digging out a spare Twin lock !
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Nice build Sussed!!!! Can I aske how much it weighs? Thanks!
I haven't weighed it yet mate ! Off riding it for the next 10 days so will get it done when I'm back !
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IP-036 in the sun waiting for a ferry !
(https://db.tt/lBLvwsCX)
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First morning after a night under the stars.
(https://db.tt/ZlXKWnwi)
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(https://db.tt/N9lKu56n)
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(https://db.tt/om0yXCSL)
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(https://db.tt/d64o1wzd)
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170miles in.
(https://db.tt/nWWRK7Rs)
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You and your chinese buddy on vacation!
Where are you? I really look nice there ! Are you on Strava ? Love to see your rides !
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Have just ridden the Outer Hebrides from the most southerly point to the northern tip, then over to Isle of Skye.
Headwinds, driving rain and the odd moment of brilliant sunshine !
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So I am just getting around to cleaning up the bike and making some minor adjustments and came across this :o
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/vedilwxirsj032f/20140806_102546%20%28medium%29.jpg?dl=0)
The Jagwire looks like it was coming out of the housing when operated and the metal threads in the outer sheath have been scraping away at the guide. The cable was cut cleanly and inserted without a ferrule as per Fox instructions. I can only think that I may have had too much of an angle on the cable into the shock housing as you can see where it has bent and damaged the the outer plastic, causing it to slide back and expose the metal threads.
I have re-cut and adjusted the angle of the cable and it seems to be operating smoothly again but it is something I need to keep an eye on !
If any of you have had anything similar please chip in with some suggestions !
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I will need to double check when I get home, but I believe I have a ferrule on the end of the cable housing that goes to my Fox CTD remote.
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I will need to double check when I get home, but I believe I have a ferrule on the end of the cable housing that goes to my Fox CTD remote.
Did you manage to check this CD ? I am just about to reroute the cable around the back of the fork and zip tie it down so the cable stays horizontal into the cable guide.
Will probably buy this to fit into the steerer tube of the fork to keep cable in place.
(https://db.tt/MdVe4JfY)
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Hi Sussed, I checked and see there is no ferrule, just the cable housing to the remote lockout. No unexpected wear on the end of the cable. Yours must have been somehow not tight enough or was set at a bad angle in order for the end of the housing to get so knackered. For me there is just no movement on the end of the cable housing relative to the cap on the fork.
Also, my cable housing goes into the cable guide by about 5-6mm. If the end is cut clean, it feeds into the guide and to the stop. Yours appears to have butted up against the outside of the cable guide. Your cable also appears to have been oddly compressed against the cable guide rather than sliding inside the loop. Possibly the cable housing is too large for the guide and it didn't slip in for you?
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Build Updates !
I ended up installing the Fork Cable guide into the Steerer to keep the cable firmly in place. Works as it should and have had no movement in the cable since.
(https://db.tt/FBMoqZwx)
I have been tinkering with my position on the bike since day one and now I have finally got it dialled in. I had a Carbon seat post from XMI but I had to have the seat slammed back on the rails.....
(https://db.tt/cMQt5TlN)
I found a seat post that has a 32mm setback which now gave me more room to play with on the rails.
(https://db.tt/mZA7ThyZ)
And lastly I replaced the Fox dual suspension lever and splitter box ! For those going with remote lock outs, skip the Fox system from the start. The splitter box as well as looking very ugly it didn't last very long. The lever was fine but the Scott Twinloc is a much better piece of engineering.
(https://db.tt/tcMGtWcA)
(https://db.tt/uW5O5fTS)
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Hi Sussed, thanks for posting an update. Looks like you have the front lockout sorted out, although I am wondering about the tie wrap on the end of the cable. If I did that to mine, I would half expect doing so would constrain the lock from rotating. However, it must not otherwise yours would not have it that way.
A laid back seat post can be useful for allowing you to get your weight back and provide a bit more room between the bars and your seating position. I wouldn't mind trying one myself, maybe I will see if my friend at the LBS has one he can loan me for a week or so.
The Scott twin-loc lever is the ticket, glad to see you also got one installed. It's one of my favorite things that I changed out on my IP-036, every time I ride I appreciate how nicely it works and how good it looks on the bike.
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Hi Sussed, thanks for posting an update. Looks like you have the front lockout sorted out, although I am wondering about the tie wrap on the end of the cable. If I did that to mine, I would half expect doing so would constrain the lock from rotating. However, it must not otherwise yours would not have it that way.
Dont worry CD, the tie wrap is just to stop the cable hitting the forks when it flicks round during operation, the cable moves freely ! I will cut down the length of cable when I'm happy everything is OK and lose the tie wrap.v 8)
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This and CD's are two of the nicer chiners on the site imo. Thanks for sharing.. making it harder for me to settle for a hardtail.
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Cheers Oolak !
One of the best decisions I have made to build up my own bike. Very satisfying and of course you get to know your bike inside out !
HT or FS, just get it built 8)
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This and CD's are two of the nicer chiners on the site imo. Thanks for sharing.. making it harder for me to settle for a hardtail.
Thanks for the kind words Oolak! Here is another picture of my IP-036.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v193/S2k_Dude/Carbon%20FS%2029er/2807659d-6b15-4d5d-badc-e119616cab8e.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/S2k_Dude/media/Carbon%20FS%2029er/2807659d-6b15-4d5d-badc-e119616cab8e.jpg.html)
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Beautiful, and lots of info to boot.., thanks
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Updates:
As my bike is coming up for its first birthday I thought I would give you all some updates !
Mileage wise I reckon I am coming up for about 1200 miles and still going strong. Over the past couple of months I have replaced a few consumables:
BB30: Has been swapped out for a new ceramic one. I had noticed that the BB30 was getting very worn on one side and the cranks weren’t spinning freely. Inspecting the old one after installation it was in a bad way, a rusty crunchy mess ! I got the new SRAM Ceramic very cheap off E-bay and hope it lasts a bit longer !
(https://db.tt/ejCvFabh)
Headset Bottom Assembly: After retrieving the bike from the shed from a few weeks of storage over Xmas I found that the steering had seized. A quick twist of the bars freed up the steering but it wasn’t as smooth as it once had been. While dis-assembling, the lower bearing fell apart in my hands so it was replaced ! The old bearing was a Cane Creek 40 series, It was replaced with the more expensive 110 series. The upper assembly was in good condition so was just cleaned, re-greased and re-installed.
Old.
(https://db.tt/BZ37vRCN)
New.
(https://db.tt/VtESnyXr)
Pedals: I decided to service the Crank-Bros Eggbeater 2’s. which were also not spinning freely. I purchased the Service kit which comes with new Nyloc nuts, bushings, screw caps, seals and bearings. After stripping down both pedals it was apparent that both bearings had seized. It’s a nice straightforward job to strip and rebuild the pedals. The hardest part was removing the plastic screw caps which chew up very easily !
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/60022025/rebuilds-2-1-2.png)
Rear Shock: I had noticed the rear shock (FOX CTD Remote) was not returning to its Descend mode properly, as If there wasn’t enough force on the spring mechanism. At first I thought it may be the remote cable stopping the shock returning to its correct position but the problem remained without cable attached. I could turn the barrel on the shock to its correct position manually but it would not ‘spring’ round. After a brief email exchange with MOJO who deal with FOX UK I sent it off to them to look at. I posted the shock on Thursday and had it returned the following Tuesday. MOJO had done a full service and fixed whatever the problem was under warranty with no questions asked. I suspect this may be common problem as no proof of purchase was required ! I was expecting a bit of hassle as I bought my shock from the US ! Either way, great customer service !
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A friend at the LBS is thinking of building up at 27.5 HT and wanted to try out the XX1 so I lent him my rig and he gave me one of the hire bikes to try out, a mid range 29er Scott Spark. After the ride he was impressed with the bike and the XX1 and he will probably go with 1x11 set up ! He did however point out a few things wrong with my bike. Loose headset, rear brake judder and the rear frame had a lot of play in it ! I was aware of the brake problem as the rear rotor is slightly warped and needs replacing. I hadn’t noticed the headset had a slight amount of play in it but that was a quick fix.
Rear frame triangle !! So after close inspection there was a lot of lateral movement in the rear frame. By a lot I mean about 2-3mm in the Top tube pivot and slight movement in the seat stay to linkage pivot. I checked the torque on all the bolts and all seemed in order. (I did snap a bolt head whilst re-torquing the seatstay to suspension linkage, pay attention to torque settings ! LOL ::) !!)
With the reoccurring theme of trashed bearings I decided to strip down the suspension linkage and chainstay/seatstay pivots and check them out.
(https://db.tt/mFeNHyri)
Before I built up the IP-036 whilst waiting for parts I stripped the frame, greased the bearings and re-torqued all the pivot points to make sure they would last. This seems to have worked as all parts were in near perfect order. Some of the black paint had worn away from the bolts and spacers but nothing to worry about. The only wear I could see was on the spacers and on the non-drive side to the Top tube pivot point. This is probably accounting for the lateral play.
(https://db.tt/NK9sN2AV)
Edit: The aluminium is worn, there is a slight 'dishing' to the face of the pivot housing !
The only bearing of slight concern was in the seatstay/chainstay pivot. Basically this bearing sits in a recess within the chainstay and the recess was filled with dirt/grime so if you ride in the wet/wash regularly the bearing will always sit in gunk ! The bearing moves freely but is starting to discolour. The amount of movement that this bearing goes through I doubt I would ever notice if it was seized so I don’t suggest everyone goes tearing it out to give it a good clean as it’s a real ball ache to get back together !!
I took this foto after I had cleaned most of the crap out and decided to mention it on here !
(https://db.tt/6OYaC0Mq)
(https://db.tt/Ku0bT9ut)
So happy with everything working as it should I addressed the lateral play with some shims. I added one 8 x 14 x 0.3 shim in the seatstay to suspension linkage on the drive side. Then ended up with six 12 x 18 x 0.3 shims to the Top tube pivot point (Three on each side sitting between the bearing face and existing spacer)
Picture of shims and existing washers/spacers.
(https://db.tt/I9ZSvUU9)
Without the back wheel on and rear shock attached I pushed, pulled and twisted the frame as much as I dared looking for movement. There is now almost no play in all pivot points , I doubt whether all play in this linkage could be removed completely.
For reference the bearings in the:
Seatstay to chainstay (x2) were 698RS.
Seatstay to Suspension Linkage (x2) were 698RS
Top Tube Pivot (x2) were 6901RS
I didn’t remove the BB pivot as when all the other component were off it cycled freely with no play. (And I couldn’t be bothered removing the cranks, rear brake and derailleur with cabling ! ) I suspect the bearings there is also 6901RS !
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Great write-up. So much good information! I can't believe how bad your bearings were! Living in a wetter location seems rough on bike bearings. What is the advantage to the Ceramic BB30 kit over standard? Mine are due for an upgrade.
The rear suspension odyssey is information I will certainly be passing on to my riding partner with the IP-036.
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I had a hard time removing the Eggbeater plastic caps too.
And replaced them with these Ti ones:
http://m.ebay.com/itm/251325275052?_mwBanner=1
My experience with BB ceramic bearings so far:
They seem to be harder to spin initially. And need some break in.
I didn't notice any real difference with the steel, and stainless steel bearings I tried before.
But we'll see if they resist better the wet/mud starting in October.
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Great write-up. So much good information! I can't believe how bad your bearings were! Living in a wetter location seems rough on bike bearings. What is the advantage to the Ceramic BB30 kit over standard? Mine are due for an upgrade.
The rear suspension odyssey is information I will certainly be passing on to my riding partner with the IP-036.
Im sure my religious washing of the bike after every ride was probably a big factor with the bearings. Something I don't do any more :). The bike did see a lot of rain in its first few weeks and a lot of mud Autumn onwards. I guess with Ceramics and Stainless there is less rustable material. I doubt whether the high prices of ceramic bearings is justifiable, I just saw a bargain on eBay and went with it. Long term I reckon I will be buying cheaper bearings and replacing them often !
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I had a hard time removing the Eggbeater plastic caps too.
And replaced them with these Ti ones:
http://m.ebay.com/itm/251325275052?_mwBanner=1
My experience with BB ceramic bearings so far:
They seem to be harder to spin initially. And need some break in.
I didn't notice any real difference with the steel, and stainless steel bearings I tried before.
But we'll see if they resist better the wet/mud starting in October.
Love the end caps ! I did have a look at some but as the service kit came with plastic ones I went with those. I had to use a blow torch to heat up the flat blade screwdriver to create a new slot in the end cap to get it off ??? :o!!
In the future tho I don't think I will buy the service kit as the bushings and seals were in perfect condition, so I will just buy the bearings and some blingy caps !
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Interesting that the rebuild kit comes with plastic endcaps. ??? My 3's have aluminum ones.
Those Ti caps look nice. I just might have to pick up a pair when I service the pedals.
I took mine apart a couple months ago. Everything looked clean so I just applied some fresh grease.
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Ok, so thinking I had sorted the play on the top tube pivot it turns out that its still there after rechecking post ride !!
The videos below show the play after removing the shims and back to square one. The second vid sows that it’s the bearings that are moving in the linkage. So after playing around I have substituted one of the existing spacers for the shims to create a thinner spacer. This has allowed the bolt to pull the bearings back into their housing and keep them there !
Again I have pushed and pulled on the linkage and bolts and it seems to have worked, I have also used some Loctite 641 on the bearing as an added precaution.
Hopefully this now has sorted the problem but will check again after its been out for spin !
http://youtu.be/jm1GFxmThhI (http://youtu.be/jm1GFxmThhI)
http://youtu.be/4x0K0Fa90_I (http://youtu.be/4x0K0Fa90_I)
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Sometimes I envy my friends. Their bikes get clunky with time too.
But they don't notice it really, and get a reset once or twice a year by their LBS.
While poor of us can't stand a mm play here or there and are urged to fix it.
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Nah, I dont envy them at all ! I much prefer to try and do the work myself, not always with success tho. 8)
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I just checked my IP-036 and luckily the only slop/play that I have in the pivots of my frame is the rear shock mounting point. I probably could look into either getting a different rear shock bushing or maybe go with the RWC bearings that have been talked about earlier. However, the approx 0.5mm of movement isn't felt while riding, probably because the shock is always loaded with my weight. If I want to seek perfection, I may look into it a bit more at some point in the future.
My only other issue is with some slop/play in the headset. This I do feel while riding. Not sure why, I have tightened the stem up, in the correct order, with as much preload as I can. I checked the spacers, however, it just seems like I can't get that last bit of movement out of the system. Compared to my IP-057 which has no play whatsoever, I wonder if there is a mis-match of one of the angles of the headset bearings and the cup in the frame.