IP - 036 by Sussed.

[Sussed.]

Hi All,

Thought I’d share my build as I have enjoyed seeing everyone elses !

I have been working abroad since December and knew I would have some time off over the summer decided to build up a full-suss 29er.  After test riding some mid to top end Whyte and Orange bikes my old Trek hardtail felt like a tank.  So naturally I ended up with a Chiner build !

I have been ordering parts from far and wide trying to keep costs down as component prices here in the UK seem somewhat more expensive ! Parts have come from China, US, Germany. Austria and UK.  Parents who had been taking delivery were quite relieved when I got back to take the mountain of boxes off their hands.

I ordered the carbon parts through Peter at Iplay because of the strong recommendations on here and other forums.  I can only echo everyone elses sentiments, Iplay get good feedback for a good reason, quick comms and swift delivery !  No issues with packaging, everying well bubble wrapped with extra padding where needed.  As other people have commented, I thought the boxes were empty they are so light !

I have only one issue with the flat bars and that is the fact that the ‘grip tape’ for the stem is off centre by a few MM.  No biggie, once the stem is on and centred there is only a few mm showing to one side. I can live with it.


Main build components are –

FRAME – IP-036
SEAT POST – IPSP5
FLAT BAR – IP-B05
WHEELS – IP-M930C WITH NOVATEC HUBS

SHIFTER – SRAM XX1 GRIP SHIFT
CASSETTE – SRAM XG 1199
CHAIN – SRAM PC XX1
REAR MECH – SRAM XX1
CRANKS – SRAM XX1 BB30 QF 168 175MM
CHAIN RING – SRAM XX1 32T
BB – SRAM BB30
TYRES – SCHWALBE RR EVO SNAKESKIN
FORK  -  FOX  32 FLOAT CTD REMOTE 100MM
REAR SHOCK – FOX FLOAT CTD REMOTE 165MM
BRAKES – FORMULA RX (160MM ROTORS)
SEAT – FIZIK GOBI XM MANGANESE
HEADSET – CANE CREEK IS52/42 40 SERIES
STEM – RACE FACE 100MM
PEDALS – CRANK BROS EGBEATER II


Most of the components are here, just waiting on a few crucial bits.

BB and headset should be with me today. I held off on ordering them until I had checked ID on shell and tube to be sure I was getting the right size.

I am also waiting on the Rear shock and pedals as they are coming from the US.  Ordered online to a friend in Arizona who has then chucked them in with a company shipment to another friend who works a few miles away !  The cost saving on the shock was massive, over $250. So worth the wait and the cost of a few beers !

My Formula RX brakes didn't come with any spares so after reading Carbon_Dudes helpful post on hose shortening I realised that I would need some olives and pins for when the time comes to route the cables ! Olives inbound.


I will try and keep this thread updated as I go on but as I am impatient I will no doubt just dive right in and smash it out ! 

[Sussed.]

Dining room table promoted to workbench ! 

[Sussed.]

Frame and seat looking lonely !

[MTB2223]

Nice topic! I'm going to follow this topic.
I hope you parts will arrive soon.

[Sussed.]

Cheers MTB !

I see that you have started your build too ! 

Race ? 

[Sussed.]

Seat Post Clamp Issue !

I remember reading others have had slight problems with the height of the seat tube and the clamp not seating fully down.  I couldnt find it on this forum so any thoughts would be appreciated.


Basically the seat post clamp doesn't sit fully down -



Is it something that needs sorting ? The only fix would be a narrower seat clamp I assume !

[Carbon_Dude]

It's possible that you have a wide seat clamp, what is the thickness of the clamp compared to the clamp area of the frame?

[Sitar_Ned]

Well that's exactly what mine looks like. I was actually going to post about it like you just did but forgot all about about it. I've had no issues so far. A narrower clamp won't help bc it still won't seat all the way down.

I say don't worry about it unless you have slippage issues, which I predict that you won't.

Looking like an awesome build!

[Sussed.]

The height of the clamp is 17mm, when seated there is about 6mm between top of seat tube and top of clamp.

The post clamps down well and evenly, there doesn't seem to be any undue pressure points and minimal play.  Obviously i haven't sat down on it yet but with a bit of paste and a few more turns on the clamp I don't anticipate slippage. 

Knowing that Im not the only one Sitar makes me feel a lot more comfortable about it !

[MTB2223]

Sussed, aren't you afraid to over tighten your seat clamp? You've a seat clamp with a handle. 5 - 6 nm is the max.

About the 6 mm unused seat clamp. Maybe you can filled that up with a tin rubber strip, to avoid mud between your seat clamp and seat post. And maybe this will give some extra resistance.

[Sussed.]

I am always afraid to over tighten things MTB ! Especially on a new carbon frame !

However, the post is a very snug fit in the tube, there is no room for anything to crush.

Good point on the mud ! I will have root around and see if i have anything to fill the gap.

[MTB2223]

However, the post is a very snug fit in the tube, there is no room for anything to crush.

That was what I thought also, but I've got a different experience.

At the carbon frame of my daughter, the LBS over tighten the seat clamp a little. This results in crack like the way on the picture (I don't have a real picture of the crack, but this one is like it was). The crack won't appear right away, but after some rides.
Unfortunately we couldn't proof it was the fault of the LBS, but we didn't change anything of the settings... But a good carbon repairer did a good job.


I don't wanna scare you, but be aware.

[Carbon_Dude]

That is scary.  Hopefully with some carbon paste and no more than 5 N-m of torque, the clamp will work correctly and the frame will not develop any cracks.

The fact that you stated the seatpost is a snug fit is very good news, less likely any type of crack would develop.

[Sussed.]

So the BB and Headset arrived a few hours ago !

Offered up the Upper and Lower bearings to the steerer tube and the Upper dropped in fine with a small amount of pressure.  The lower was much tighter and needed a tap with rubber mallet and popped in with no problems. 

My forks came off a showroom bike so they were already cut and star nut installed.  That has kind of limited my ability to set up exactly as I want but it has saved me a few minutes with a saw !

i was going to get the LBS to seat the crown race, along with the BB but being impatient I nipped off to the shed and made up a polypipe seating tool ! The pipe I had was too small to get down to the bottom but I had an inline coupler which with the inserts removed sat on the race and bearing nicely.  A few taps and that was done !



It took a few attempts to get the amount of spacers between stem and upper just right but everything is on aligned, turning smoothly and with (eventually !) no play.......

Top tip - Do not align your stem and forks then tighten up before screwing down the Pre-load bolt on the top cap !  Took me a while to figure out why i couldn't get the slack out.......   

[Sussed.]

So forks are on. Next was to align the handlebar and install the Gripshift and left hand grip.

All straightforward. However it has dawned on me that the Gripshift is considerably longer than the other grip. This means the rear brake is going to sit further away from the left hand, leaving a space between grip and brake.  This may be the best place for the remote lever.  Im going to start on the cockpit now so I can offer things up to see what is going to work best.