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Tideace 2022 29er Boost 12*148mm New Mold MTB029 Anyone looking for the carbon boost 29er frame?
Our new mold MTB029 12*148mm being done, the sample would be available next month.
Any interesting, feel free to contact me via email.

Eddy@haidelibicycle.com

Best regards
Eddy

August 17, 2021, 03:51:53 AM
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Re: Forum name? Huh. Well, I have to be honest, I did not see that coming at all. It never once occurred to me that someone could potentially be offended by the forum's name.

First of all, I want to say that as adriaanm said, we can certainly talk about these things and ask these questions if it is on the minds of the community, and there's only one person that can address this and that would be me, so I'll try my best to communicate fully, clearly, and honestly.

I came up with the name "Chinertown" myself while researching my first chiner build. Users on other forums had already coined the term "chiner" as a play on words combining 29er bikes and Chinese carbon bikes. I just took it one step further and combined "chiner" with "Chinatown". There was never any negative racial element to it whatsoever. In fact, I think if you look at the functionality of the forum then it would be hard to argue otherwise. The forum facilitates commerce with China and other Asian countries. It directly benefits Asian entrepreneurs. I realize that could be separated out from the meaning of the name, but I do think it's something to factor into the equation.

I'll also say that in regards to the responses that were interpreted as "you're wrong, get out of here" that I don't really think they mean for you specifically to get out of here and those very same users would likely help you out in any way that they could if you asked. I can empathize with where they are coming from just as I can empathize with where you are coming from. It just seems like everything gets so politicized these days and getting online and being a part of a community that you share like interests with can be an escape from that. So when it creeps in people may have a tendency to want to push it out. That said, we should definitely be able to talk about these things.

I try to keep a very "libertarian" approach to the forum and never want anyone here to feel as though the conversation is being censored, controlled, or directed in ways suited to the ideals or goals of one or a group of individuals. I've been a member of forums that I really enjoyed that went south for those reasons and it's always such a bummer when that happens. If you notice, you can edit your posts for an indefinite amount of time. If you want to come back 5 years later and either delete or edit your posts, you're free to do so. Most forums don't allow that as it leaves room for spam and it's also not good for Google rankings. Say someone starts a thread and makes a long post with the right keywords and that topic starts showing up in Google and bringing traffic to the forum.. and that person decides to come back a year later and edit the post and possibly removes the specific keywords. Well, that would likely mean that post would lose its spot in the Google rankings, and forum growth would take a small hit. We leave editing control to you so that each community member can keep control of their own words and never cedes it fully to the forum. I say that to illustrate that it's important to me that users feel comfortable in saying and discussing whatever they choose so long as (like it says in the very description of this board) it isn't derogatory or offensive. You were neither, and you were thoughtful and respectful, so thanks for that, and please do feel free to discuss what you think is important, but also understand that others are free to tell you if they don't like it. It goes both ways.

Lastly, and I say this with respect, but the name will absolutely not be changed. Not only would that be a technical nightmare (this is a 7-year-old .com domain name and that has value in various ways) but it would also be against community ideals IMO. Just as you are free to do and say as you wish so long as you are respectful and have good intent... so am I. I know for a fact there are no negative racial implications to the forum name whatsoever and therefore it would be wrong to change it based on others' incorrect interpretations.

Now.. I'll be honest, if someone does find it offensive... that does bother me and kinda hurts my feelings a bit as I would never want to offend people in that way. I love people, I love the internet, and I love online communities, and I'm also somewhat of a people pleaser so I really hope that if anyone has that initial first impression, that they will keep an open mind and judge the forum, myself, and the community for their actions.

I hope that sheds some light on things for you or anyone else that may question this. If you are going to be part of an online community, I think you have every right to question the integrity of those involved. I hope you'll stick around and please feel free to hit me up if you need anything.

Cheers,
Sitar_Ned

August 28, 2021, 01:37:28 PM
1
Re: The Shiny New AM831 Group Buy (A) Thread! OK, everything is fine: sorry for the noise!  :(
My brand new GX derailleur had a metal chip stuck in one of the hinges which prevented it from returning to the end position!

This would teach me to do bike work late at night and then post my mistakes to a forum!
In the process, I also checked the design of the hanger against SRAM specs (https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/frame-fit-specifications/mtb/2021-mtb-frame-fit-specifications.pdf), and it is totally in spec!

sorry everybody!

August 29, 2021, 11:01:11 AM
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Airwolf YFM-026 - 1 month in I learned so much from this forum, time to repay my dues! My 1 month in review of my favourite new steed - an Airwolf YFM-026[/size]
    • Frame: Airwolf YFM-026 with headset and BB included. 29er, BOOST. Custom painted by Airwolf. I printed my own stickers and wrapped in 3M paint protection film
    • Bar/stem: Airwolf ‘Newest one-shaped MTB bike handlebar carbon Handlebars with 2° degree stem’. 40mm stem and 800mm width bar
    • Seatpost: Airwolf carbon post
    • Fork: NOS 2018 Rockshox SID RL Charger, 100mm travel, BOOST
    • Brakes: Magura MT Sport w/ Storm rotors. 180mm front, 160mm rear
    • Wheels: Syncros (Formula) BOOST hubs and Syncros (Alex) 30mm rims from a 2019 Scott Genius
    • Gears: Shimano XT 12sp shifter and Deore derailleur. SRAM GX cassette and X01 chain
    • Crank / Chainring: ZRACE HARDROCK - DUB 1 x 10 11 12 Speed Boost Crankset Eagle Tooth, 175mm
    • Pedals: Shimano PD-M785
    • Tires: Vittoria Barzo 2.35
    • Seat: Specialized Toupe
    • Grips: Wolftooth silicone
What I’m aiming for
I have been eyeing up unbranded frames from China for about 20 years. I really missed a 2013 Kona Hei Hei XC bike that I had sold and liked the idea of a hardtail to replace it. I wanted something light but capable, understanding that a 100mm fork that I found on sale sets something of a limit. I wanted to build it on a budget with a focus on function and value rather than bling and ultra-light weight.

I live on Vancouver’s North Shore which has a reputation for pretty gnarly trails, but wanted something that would be a blast on the less extreme trails that often get forgotten. That said, I know this bike will end up on some of the harder trails from time to time (see below!).

The frame, bar and seatpost were bought through the Airwolf store on Aliexpress. Their communication was excellent. It took about 6 weeks to arrive, but would have been quicker if I hadn’t had it painted. This is one of the few frames I could find with modern XC geo – notably reach, head and seat angles and BOOST. It was extremely well packaged with no damage. The only fault I could find in the finish is some rough edges in the head tube. I did not see any of the issues that some have reported about poor dropouts or fork crown hitting downtube (this is a large frame).

The crank was ordered from Zrace on Aliexpress. Their communication is OK, and I'm really pleased with them so far.

Other parts I either already owned, bought second hand or found on Ebay. The build went very smoothly. Any issues I had were definitely my error, not with the frame. The internal routing for the rear brake was a lot of work, but no harder than it would be on any other frame and it looks good once done! One thing to note: the other ports on this frame are designed to run inner cable only in the frame, as opposed to a full length of outer. This means I’ll need to do some fiddling if I want to fit a dropper post.

Initial impressions
This thing is light! The frame comes in at about 1150g with hanger, thru-axle and seat collar. Built up, the bike is 19.6lbs without crank or pedals, so I’m expecting 22-23lbs once the new crank arrives. I’m really pleased with how it looks with matte black components and a bright colour on the frame. No-one really seems to notice my little stickers, which is fine by me. I know what they mean (UK riders may be familiar with the Mint Sauce font and quotes!).

Even with the 40mm stem, it’s quite long (size large and I am 178cm tall). The steering is really quick. The brakes didn’t work (not bed in). The whole thing feels ‘tight’.

First ride
I was in a rush. I needed to get up the mountain by 6pm and I didn’t get home from work until 5.15. I stuffed my backpack with shakedown test musts like a shock pump and multitool and sped out the door.
Coming from a big-ish trail bike the Airwolf immediately felt weird, with lightning quick steering and very fast acceleration. The beginning of the ride was mostly on road to get up the mountain as fast as possible, but the little sections of singletrack gave me an inkling of how this was going to be: playful and fast (and too long).

You’ll be pleased to know I made it to the trail head on time. Everyone was interested in the new bike (most of them knew it was in the works), and there were plenty of jokes about me emerging from the forest with shards of carbon fibre up my arse. I had promised myself that I would not go straight into the gnar with this bike, but the group was heading up to a black-rated trail (7th Secret). I figured I’d give it a go and tweak the bike as I went / walk if necessary.

The ride to the top confirmed what I’d found on that initial climb: a bike that is quick to accelerate and encourages you to fast.

The beginning of the ride down was a different matter. The top of 7th Secret is quite steep, rocky and rooty. It was also greasy that day. I had not had a chance to bed the brakes in and I am used to a 160/150mm bike with a 65 degree head angle so I was pleased that I managed to drop in to the trail without snapping me or the bike. After about 2 minutes I put the seat post in my bag because I couldn’t drop the seat enough. If I’m going to keep riding trails like this, I’d need a dropper. As the brakes started to bed in, I started to appreciate the quick steering on the tight switchbacks.

As 7th Secret merges into the lower trails, things start to mellow out. This is where I realized the bike is exactly what I was hoping for. This is no 90s alloy hardtail throwback – there is quite a bit of flex in the frame and it’s pretty comfortable for a hardtail. That quick acceleration is addictive coming out of corners! I’m sure the fastish rolling tires helped here, and it’ll be interesting to experiment with North Shore go-to Maxxis DHF and DHRs at some point.

From the first ride I learned a few things. First, I really like this bike. It makes the ‘easy’ trails a hell of a lot of fun, which is just what I was hoping for. I would far rather have this than a gravel bike, and it’s probably not much slower on dirt road.
 
Secondly, a little faith in the established Chinese manufacturers is probably warranted. I really hope this frame lasts and becomes great value. I don’t think it will take long for me to trust it.
Thirdly… rushing out for a ride down ‘big’ trails on a bike that isn’t really set up yet is probably not a great idea. Go and bed the brakes in, tighten any loose bolts and realize you need a dropper before you go out in public.

One month in
I would highly recommend anyone looking at this frame to be careful on sizing. It's long. I have got the seat nearly all the way forward and it's fine now. Just after I got the YFM026 working a friend of mine bought a gravel bike and we went for a long but gentle ride. I loved it - fast, comfortable and light but much more capable than a gravel bike.

I have some fast singletrack trails close to my house and I absolutely love this bike there. So much fun!

A couple of tweaks to come! The bars are too wide. I'll cut them down to about 760mm. I have a seatpost shim on the way so I can install a dropper. A clip for one of the cable port covers has snapped and I also want some more to run full length inner cables for the gears and dropper. Airwolf have been really helpful and, after a bit of a language barrier, I think are sending some.

Pics
Lastly… pics! No post would be complete without pics of the bella machina.

[/list]

September 17, 2021, 11:12:33 PM
1
The Un-Official Guide To Fixing Headset Play - Please Add Your Advice Here Hey Everyone,

I wanted to create a guide to help troubleshoot headset play regardless of bike brand. By no means am I an expert, and I hope others can add to this thread. Please understand this guide/thread isn't intended for airing our bike brand grievances or calling out user errors. Ultimately we all just want our bikes to work as intended.

Common Reasons For Headset Play

1. Steerer/Fork isn't cut low enough, or an extra spacer is required above the stem to properly compress the top cap. When initially cutting the steer tube, an extra 2-4mm below the cut line needs to be accounted for in order for the top cap to recess properly.

2. The headset bearing (upper or lower) doesn't sit inside the head tube cup snug enough (laterally, front to back). Velobuild, for example, provides 52mm diameter headset bearings. Other headsets sold online or for other bike brands may only be 51.8mm diameter. That 0.2mm is the difference between a snug fit or loose headset. If your bearings are loose this will always cause play. You can add a couple layers of tape inside the bearing cup to prevent the bearing from moving around. Or just buy a new 52mm headset.

3. The top headset bearing is recessed too far into the head tube cup, causing the headset cover to rub on the frame, preventing the complete headset stack to properly compress. If this is the case you will need a thicker headset bearing (7mm, 7.5mm or 8mm thick) or a thicker c-ring so that it sits flush with the top of the headset opening on the frame, thus preventing the headset cover from rubbing the frame. EDIT: Another resolution is adding some micro spacers between the c-ring and top cap.

4. The upper and lower headset bearings are installed in reverse. Some bikes (like Yoeleo's recent G21 gravel bike) provide a set of headset bearings, with one of the two bearings being slightly thicker than the other. The thicker of the two bearings needs to be installed on top of the head tube, and the thinner bearing on the bottom. If these two bearings are installed in reverse order then...see Common Issue #3

It is critical to do a dry run of installing the crown race, headset bearings, c-ring, headset cap, stem/cockpit, and any additional spacers before actually proceeding to building up the bike. Also be sure to compare and inspect the two headset bearings to confirm they are in fact the same size and thickness.

August 02, 2022, 02:23:09 PM
1