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Messages - Maden

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SERAPH road handlebars: my favorite road handlebars ever. Such a nice shape, well-made, light and stiff, nice channel on the underside for clean and easy cable routing. I hope they never go out of production. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800581774460.html

Do you know the reach and drop measurement of these bars?

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Maintenance, Mechanics, & Tools / Re: Inexpensive Torque Wrenches
« on: October 18, 2023, 05:44:13 PM »
Anyone try the Libraton one? $33, has a ton of good reviews

I found this video useful when deciding which one to purchase.


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No, wait, you're drawing the wrong conclusions here. TPU tubes ARE permanently patchable no problem; you can even cut one to a smaller size and glue the ends back together.

If anything, it may be that you cannot permanently patch them with these instant patches (tbf though, not too long ago, these weren't considered anything more than a temp fix for butyl either ... uh, maybe I'm just really behind the times).


You might be right, I've only used the instant patches from Cyclami. Are there patch kits where you bond a permanent patch in the same way as vulcanizing rubber patches for butyl?

I've heard the rubber cement style patches had the same problem of not lasting very long, and Ridenow don't offer them anymore. Perhaps there's an option that I'm missing (I think I saw a suggestion somewhere online to use electrical tape which seems like a bodge...)

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I want to throw out that TPU tubes have one major downside - they are NOT patchable long-term. Despite meticulous cleaning and application, every glueless TPU patch has failed on me after a few days or weeks at best.
Ridenow and Cyclami TPU tubes are still good value, but if you puncture, treat patches a temporary fix to get home and be prepared to throw the tubes out eventually.
I'm cheap and don't like being wasteful, so I switched back to butyl tubes for training rides which I can patch over and over again. I still use TPU tubes for racing and as a spare.

Other Aliexpress items I can definitely recommend:
- $18 2x Carbon bottle cages (Bontrager XXX knockoffs)
- $24 Elita One carbon saddle (the Specialized Power knockoff one)
- $425 Elitewheels carbon rim brake wheels with Powerway R13 hubs and Pillar Wing 20 spokes, 47mm deep and 27mm wide, 1500g. Used for ~3800 miles and no issues except having to retrue each wheel once. No issues braking even on 3000ft+ descents.
- $20 Magene H303 heart rate monitor with chest strap
- $8 2x CYCPLUS Cadence/Speed dual sensors. Yes I got two of them for $8.
- $20-30 Spexcel Jerseys and Bibs

Steer clear from these:
- Kactus Titanium QR skewers. I don't know what Trace Velo was thinking, these are awful. Lots of friction, loose rattling fit on the threads for the nut, extremely sharp edges on the lever that make it impossible to close the lever with any force. Just completely unusable.
- Cheap unbranded stems. The one I got had paint overspray in the clamping areas and screw holes which was a pain to get rid of. The screw holes faces on the faceplate weren't flat and could cause a stress raiser if I torqued the bolts up, so I had to use a faceplate from a different stem I had. Not worth cutting every dollar for an important part of your bike - stick to Kalloy/UNO alloy stems with lots of reviews or western brands.

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Maintenance, Mechanics, & Tools / Re: Inexpensive Torque Wrenches
« on: October 15, 2023, 03:07:24 PM »
Thanks for the recommendations everyone. I ended up buying a Harbor Freight Pittsburgh Pro 1/4" drive torque wrench for $12.99 during a local sale. It seems accurate so far, at least when compared to my friend's 5 Nm preset torque driver.

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I am really confused now, I thought new gen Shimano 105's construction is 2 alloy that was forged together by glue?

BTW how is the performance of cranksets such as the one that I posted? I generally don't mind the chainrings as I can get them easily and replace them with better quality ones. I am thinking about the stiffness generally

105 has never been glued - even the newest Shimano 105 12-speed crankset is still hollow forged. Only Ultegra (6800/R8000/R8100) and Dura-Ace (9000/R9100/R9200) are glued.

Can't personally comment on stiffness but Hambini has said that having a cut-out section on the back of the crank arms is less stiff than a hollow design (like Shimano or Rotor). Not sure if it's a noticeable difference in practice.

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Maintenance, Mechanics, & Tools / Inexpensive Torque Wrenches
« on: October 06, 2023, 08:12:34 PM »
Anyone have recommendations for torque wrenches they've used? I'm looking for one to deal with bolts that assemble delicate carbon parts like seatpost clamp, stem bolts, and expander plug, so a range of 2-20 Nm would be ideal. I've reading a lot of reviews on various Chinese brands on Amazon and common complaints include the "click" not being noticeable or occurring at low ends of the torque range, torque setting being hard to adjust/read, etc.

I'm currently eyeing the product below but would appreciate any pointers for alternatives at a similar price point.
https://www.amazon.com/LEXIVON-Dual-Direction-17-7-230-1-Maintenance-LX-191/dp/B0BH57YJ8Z

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If bonding issues are a concern, Shimano 105 R7000 and R7100 cranksets have one-piece forged construction that do not use glue.

Cranksets in the style of that Racework generally work fine. They do have some quirks worth knowing about, the chainrings generally don't last as long as Shimano ones, and the straight crankarms (as opposed to Shimano crankarms which curve outwards) don't have much heel clearance when pedaling.

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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Elitewheels Edge wheelset
« on: October 01, 2023, 11:34:16 PM »
Does anyone know if the decal is on top the clear coat? I plan to strip the decal if I decided to get the EDGE.

It's on top. The decals on my set of Elitewheels have scraped off a bit.

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Component Deals & Selection / Re: Mechanical flat mount brakes
« on: September 29, 2023, 03:04:11 PM »
Hybrid-hydraulic calipers are pretty reliable. From what I've seen in this thread http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3333.30.html and Trace Velo's videos, the ZRACE BR-005 cable-actuated hydraulics are more than adequate and affordable at about 60 dollars a pair. A more pricey but well-proven option are Juintech F1s.

TRP Spyres are the go-to for fully mechanical. I'd think you'd be better off buying used than going for a Chiner knock-off of those.

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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Replica Factor Ostro VAM
« on: September 27, 2023, 05:37:02 PM »
Compression plug doesn't hold any stress while riding. Your handlebar is clamped to the steerer and keeps everything together. Compression plug and top cap function only to set correct tightness for headset.

What. The compression plug is ESSENTIAL at all times. Yes, the top cap is solely for preload, but the plug supports the clamping force of the stem, preventing the carbon steerer tube from being crushed, snapping, and causing an accident.

Bianchi Fork Failure:

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Agreed, for pedals you really have to pick 2 out of 3 for lightweight, inexpensive, and durable. Because of how many moving parts they have, saving weight is not so simple.

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I myself have found only a few third-party lightweight options for SPD-SL. Even though Shimano pedals are reliable, Look KEO seems to be a better choice for cost-conscious weight savings.

But, here are the four options I found:

Exustar E-PR18 CKTI (Titanium axle, carbon-reinforced nylon body) - 246g - 126 USD https://www.amazon.com/Exustar-E-PR18CKTI-Road-Clipless-Pedal/dp/B00LOA0BTU

Exustar E-PR18 STTI (Titanium axle, nylon body) - 256g - 100 USD https://www.amazon.com/Exustar-E-PR18STTI-Road-Clipless-Pedal/dp/B00LOA0BYU

Wellgo R358 (Steel axle, carbon-reinforced body) - 243g - 55 USD https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804199087759.html

Rockbros LP-R21 (Steel axle, nylon body) - 262g - 40 USD https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832644654245.html

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Another masochist eR9 beta tester chiming in:

As with the user above I also had sub-optimal interactions with their customers service, with typically 1 business day gaps in the reply time, so getting a replacement part which I had damaged took a total of 5 days to be dispatched.

What was the part?

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Since the topic is about out front mounts.. My thinkrider hinge broke last month (but was overall good) and because I was too lazy to contact support I bought a rockbros mount (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005305832809.html)
It's been horrible, incredibly wobbly, secure enough to ride but the GPS is loose and I'm afraid I might damage the quarterturn on the back. I've tried tightening more, less, swapping them but no luck. They sent me another one and it's the exact same. Support is advising me the mechanical equivalent of "Have you tried turning it off and back on?"
I know it's not my GPS because my old mount doesn't wobble at all (but I can't clamp it to my handlebars). I want to believe I'm doing something wrong with the assembly of the garmin chip into the bracket, has anyone ever had issues like this? Should I put locktite or similar? Surely they couldn't have sent me 2 faulty mounts in a row...

I'm 0/2 for Aliexpress mounts for my Wahoo... both of them had the issues out of the box. They somehow take a lot of resistance to twist in, but when locked, the computer wobbles with ~1mm of play. Very much like a chair whose legs are too short so it rocks diagonally. I'm starting to believe that the locking inserts that most sellers use are crap. I ended up going back to my KOM Cycling mount from Amazon, which was still relatively cheap and locks my computer smoothly with no play after 5000 miles of use.

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