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Messages - Ar26

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1
How to route the di2 cable if there is no hole under the front derailleur? Through the hole for mechanical behind?
Sorry to have raised this problem which certainly does not have one. For my part, I don't have a hole under the FD. So I went through the space provided at the bottom of the seat tube. I have a Shimano Di2. A part is provided for Shimano or Sram. On the other hand, so that the electrical wire could pass through this plastic part, I had to slightly enlarge the hole in this plastic part screwed to the frame. A little electrical tape on the electrical wire closes the small space to prevent the passage of water. Very simple overall

2
I see that now these frames have a hole under the front derailleur hanger

3
You actually have a lot of spacers under the handlebars. Maybe this YT video on channel BBInfinite 2 years ago (Adjust a Headset Like a Boss) will help you compress your headset in the best way. I myself was amazed at the compression with plastic spacers

4
I finished the Build today after receiving the wheel set.
I've also ridden the first few kilometers to set every adjustment and get a first feel for the bike. The build with pedals and bottle mounts is about 7,5kg.

The mechanical shifting works fine. It only needs some fine tuning. The bike feels very good and stiff. I have to say that I do not really have a comparison. Only my aluminum gravelbike (Trek Checkpoint). I'll also post my impressions after a few longer rides.

I think the frame fits me pretty well with size 54. I'm 175cm with inseem of 82. But after only 10km I don't know exactly.

My personal Pros and Cons so far:
+ Good frame  and parts quality. No bigger problems yet.
+ The build was good with some smaller problems.

- front derailleur hanger not so good for mechanical Shimano due to the missing support for the stabilizer screw.
- paint quality is okay (small imperfections here and there) but the clear coat is very thin so that I already have some smaller scratches. I think the paintjob should be clear coated at least 2 times.

As already mentioned by other people the carbon in some areas (downtube, toptube) Is very thin. You can easily flex it with your thumb. I don't know if that is normal for that kind of frames. I just want to say it.

All in all I'm very happy how it turned out and looking forward to the next rides. The whole build was about 2500 Euro. For that price I can't buy a branded Frame with carbon wheels and group set.
It's clear, you're going to beat all your KOMs. We're not going to miss you with this red bike in the green meadows

5
On a di2 Ultegra, this screw is already at the extreme limit of the plate

6
The hanger is fixed by 4 screws. So if they could provide a different hanger it could work.

I'll definitely give updates when I know something new.
So far I can't go on with the build. That sucks.
If I have to go with electronic shifting, the build will be mich more expensive than planned. And I also really like mechanical shifting.
I tasted the electric and it's really great for the settings which offer a lot of possibilities. Without counting on internal wiring, much easier. It's very difficult  to go back.

7
The di2 Ultegra touchs the frame plate for me

8
While I don't really understand the squared design of the downtube, I can not imagine that an average rider would feel any difference. Especially because I guess the front wheel will make the bigger difference in that area and It should kinda shield parts of the downtube from the air flow.

I think the rider position, clothing, ... will make the biggest difference in aerodynamics.
Absolutely agree with you. I am not an engineer, nor a specialist in aerodynamics. LC should send the frame to Hambini for review (ah! ah!)

9
Do Western branded frames also Flex when they're considered lightweight?
" To be light or not to be light "; That is the question

10
You will drive at more than 40km/h with this frame without any problem and maintain this speed. Concerning the wall, I confirm the thinness under the pressure of the hand. It reminds me of my Hyper wheels (Winspace), very thin too.

11
HBR13 in 100mm

12
Have you had many seat posts break on you in the past?  Thinking that could be catastrophic for the rider
I anticipated either a fall, or a tightening torque a little too strong (failure of my torque wrench). It has cost me, in the past, about 200 USD for a Ritchey.Je noticed it after a ride where I saw a small crack appear at the junction of the frame and the seatpost. Moreover, not being curvy, I'm not sure if we found it on Ali for example. This is definitely a proprietary seatpost. Anyway, I have one for sale

13
Nice catch! Didn't notice that. I wonder how other brands do it. Still wondering though if I should go 110 instead of the 100mm

Your build looks neat.

I ordered 2x GP5000 in 32. Wanna ride comfy ahaha
I hadn't been careful when I took the HBR13 in 100mm. As a result, I bought a 0° seatpost. I then moved my shoe cleats back slightly because of discomfort under the underfoot. Everything looks ok now. The worst is that I had ordered two seatposts in -20 (in case of breakage). For longer saddles, it could be okay but it's limited to the level of the marks on the rails. Otherwise the handlebars are great.

14
The continuation of my previous message

15
Well here is my construction is finished. Some 400km done. This is a tuning phase. I am 178 cm tall and 68kg; I opted for size 54. I finally changed the seatpost for a 0° because I use a short saddle (Elita one) of 245 cm in length and therefore little travel. I put 30 tires at the rear and 28 at the front. Of the 32 will pass without any problem. The wheels are YAR45-03 from Yuananbike (the equivalent of the Elite Edge) if I'm not mistaken. All-around wheels for the area I live in. My driving impressions are good. In my opinion the seatpost does not sufficiently filter the roughness of the road but the tires compensate (5.5 bar with TPU inner tube at the rear and latex at the front) but I don't like it either when it's too "bulbous". Maybe I'll lower the cockpit. It is currently 1cm higher than my other bikes. No construction problems. In the photos, you will see that there is no gap in the headset, that the downtube is not as excessive as some might think.  I posted a picture with a Hammerhead. I have moved it as close to the handlebars as possible and if you want, you can have even more room. Well come on, I'm leaving you, I have to train for the TDF (LOL). N.b: pay attention to the size of the handlebars when you order, the length is calculated on the bottom and with an angle of -10°, a length of 100 below measures about 110 on top

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