Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: FabioZang on February 01, 2024, 01:34:49 AM
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There is currently no detailed information available about this frame, except for an official promotional video.
Based on the content of the video, I can provide a brief description of the frame's features:
- It features a downtube storage design with a magnetic and buckle cover plate.
- It has a T47 bottom bracket, and support for UDH.
- The frame is designed to accommodate tires of 50c+ width both in the front and rear, with the fork and rear dropout widths measuring at least 60mm+.
- It has a flat mount disc brake mount compatible with 140/160mm rotors.
- The frame weight for size M (52) is 1200g (including the storage compartment cover plate and all accessories), while the fork weight is 460g (uncut).
Images and geometry tables are provided below.
In my personal opinion, the overall design of this bike is quite good, but the geometry seems to be a major drawback. It appears that the designer simply extended the overall reach without making further adjustments to match the rider's riding position. Additionally, I believe that using 140/160mm flat mount disc brakes with such a large tire clearance design may be somewhat outdated.
Apart from these points, I think it is a decent frame. What do you all think?
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400mm reach with 570mm top tube in size 54, plus outdated seat tube inclination, 435mm long chai stay.
I am sorry but the design is a little Crazy. If they have put 75 deg in the back maybe they would bring the saddle closer, reduce top tube to something reasonable and paired with a short stem it could work. But this .... I don't see it
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400mm reach with 570mm top tube in size 54, plus outdated seat tube inclination, 435mm long chai stay.
I am sorry but the design is a little Crazy. If they have put 75 deg in the back maybe they would bring the saddle closer, reduce top tube to something reasonable and paired with a short stem it could work. But this .... I don't see it
Shorter chainstays and a slightly steeper seat tube would get me interested. This would probably reduce the top tube length by a bit as well.
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Yet another one where the geo doesn't match the tire clearance except in the small sizes. HTA / STA and FC / WB are garbage in the larger sizes.
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Not that I'm in the market for a gravel frame as I just built one up, are you saying its too race oriented geometry wise? I've been on the hunt for a gravel race bike that clears 50s.
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What I really want to see is one of these types of frames with bigger brake rotor options and a suspension-corrected fork/geometry that works well with 40-50mm travel. I need a very upright cockpit to prevent drop bars from destroying my already damaged spine, and would like something at the leading edge of current trail-capable gravel bikes without crossing over into an XC flat bar hardtail.
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Shorter chainstays and a slightly steeper seat tube would get me interested. This would probably reduce the top tube length by a bit as well.
Exactly.
73.2 deg of seat tube angle in size 540 ... the trend in both road and mtb is going in the 75-78 deg range now (and something like 70.5-71-71.5 deg in the steerer), so I would not even consider buying another of these 73-73.5 deg (SA) / 72 deg (HA) frames. It is just super obsolete in my opinion. Having a more upright seat tube brings your weight to the front to gain traction, improves efficiency and, in my case, reduces lower back pain (confirmed with a bikefit). In fact, this is the direction I went with my titanium frame, and I think the geo I designed for that bike is sublime.
Not that I'm in the market for a gravel frame as I just built one up, are you saying its too race oriented geometry wise? I've been on the hunt for a gravel race bike that clears 50s.
I just don't get this, honestly, but I acknowledge it is becoming super popular. 50mm tires is sluggish as hell. For bikepacking and doing lots of off-road it is a blessing because it just eats anything, absorbs anything. But if you want something road-oriented, aero maybe? 50mm tires just brights the opposite. For racing I would honestly go in the direction of CX frames/wheels ... something around 30-40mm tires, maybe more knobby if the terrain is very muddy/broken.
What I really want to see is one of these types of frames with bigger brake rotor options and a suspension-corrected fork/geometry that works well with 40-50mm travel. I need a very upright cockpit to prevent drop bars from destroying my already damaged spine, and would like something at the leading edge of current trail-capable gravel bikes without crossing over into an XC flat bar hardtail.
Why not something like the Lexon reverse and building a monstercross with it? Cheap as hell, can take up to a 40T chainring, 70.5 deg steerer (even more vertical if you take lets say a Rockshox SID, a Fox 32 and reduce the travel to 80mm, or a lauf trail racer ... also would bring the seat tube angle up). I have that frame (and I think it is excellent) and if it was not for the 3 gravel frames I already have ( ::) ) I would go for a monstercross conversion. I think it is really asking for it
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Not that I'm in the market for a gravel frame as I just built one up, are you saying its too race oriented geometry wise? I've been on the hunt for a gravel race bike that clears 50s.
Slacker seat angle, steeper heat tube angle, and shorter WB / FC is not 'racy', it's slow, and also dangerous on anything chunky, steep or technical. Of course that doesn't stop the industry marketing machine and associated media from calling it 'racy'.
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Except the head angle i find too steep, 70° or 71 for tall sizes will be a better sweet spot between stability and agility, this bike is more or less the same what a famous US graveler will ride this year https://www.instagram.com/p/C2dIgQcOa0w/
For me the tideace is made for rolling fast, thus you don't want Downcountry'esque seat angle and 140-160 is enough for the intented use.
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Except the head angle i find too steep, 70° or 71 for tall sizes will be a better sweet spot between stability and agility, this bike is more or less the same what a famous US graveler will ride this year https://www.instagram.com/p/C2dIgQcOa0w/
For me the tideace is made for rolling fast, thus you don't want Downcountry'esque seat angle and 140-160 is enough for the intented use.
That bike was launched nearly 2 years ago and it's still not available to anyone except their increasingly large crop of sponsored riders. In fact beside Tri frames, I don't think any Felt bikes are available anywhere outside North America ...
It was claimed they were reorganizing after they were purchased from Rossignol by Pierer ... but that's, again, almost 2 years ago.
Also that Breed Carbon has the worst cable routing I've ever seen. Even worse than the Exploro.
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Apart from these points, I think it is a decent frame. What do you all think?
it seems that the gemoetry is nearly the same like the BMC Kaius
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Type：Gravel Frame
Frame Model: GV201
Fork Model: GV-FK201
Weave: UD
Thru axle Rear Spacing: 142*12mm
Material: Full Carbon
Max Tire Size: 700*50C/27.5er*2.1"
Frame Weight: 1150+/-40g(52cm)
Fork Weight: 470+/-15g
Headtube-Top: 1-1/2"
Headtube-Down: 1-1/2"
BB: T47(85.5mm)
Available sizes: 49/52/54/56/58cm
Finish: Clear coating/matte
Thanks for all interesting of our molds.
Attached more details for new mold Gravel Frame GV201.
Any other details or want to make the order.
Feel free to contact us.
eddy@haidelibicycle.com
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I think its closest to the Trek Checkpoint SL / SLR in terms of geometry comparison.
I pretty much disagree with every comment above regarding geometry. Its more progressive and forward leaning than a lot of other open molds, but the latest Checkpoint geo was pretty well received. This one will be a little sharper due to the higher offset fork and the BB drop is more consistent across sizes so it might feel a little more dart-y in the larger sizes. However a Checkpoint geometry without the isospeed + udh feels like a win too. Stack and reach should be pretty close to the same because Trek includes their headset cover in their geometry and this bike appears not to.
Since we are all critics, i think working the design a bit to squeeze out a couple mm of clearance in the rear would have been nice as it would have allowed for 650bx2.2 / larger 2.1s to fit more comfortably in the frame.
Overall, this would be a top candidate if i was in the market for a gravel bike.
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Opinions are like butts, everyone has their one ;)
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I think the geo, looks a lot like the canyon Grizl. wich should be great for me.
I did put the geo online on:
https://bikeinsights.com/bikes/660fe85e11653c00217d7337-tantan-cycling-seraph-gr201
seems a aggressive shape with a lot of clearance
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2aifpSg8Nw4
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Despite a different design, the geo seems very similar to a hakka. Too bad about that significant weight penalty.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nn77CwxXuxE
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I've gone for one, I'm 182cm and when comparing to my other bikes, I need to run a 90mm stem for the same reach on a size 54 (I normally run 110mm).
I've gone for a pretty out there dark grey glitter paintjob (hey, it's gravel) with some wheels from 'Peter' and an ltwoo e-gr groupset. Magene PM crankset with an alugear 1X (orange) chainring. Will post the full build when everything arrives.
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Nice, good luck with the build. Just fyi, magene are now saying that the base pm is not compatible with t47 bb's.
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Nice, good luck with the build. Just fyi, magene are now saying that the base pm is not compatible with t47 bb's.
Oh, that's quite the mic drop. Why?
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Yeah, it's weird, see here:
https://www.magene.com/en/power-meters/41-pes-p505-base-power-meter.html
In fact, I see they are now claiming both T 47 and BB386 are incompatible.
From googling a bit, it seems like an issue with certain frames perhaps?
https://www.reddit.com/r/bicycling/comments/16gf0d9/comment/k30acx3/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button
(https://www.reddit.com/r/bicycling/comments/16gf0d9/comment/k30acx3/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button)
https://www.reddit.com/r/TrekBikes/comments/16geyx8/will_the_magene_power_meter_pesp505_base_fit_the/ (https://www.reddit.com/r/TrekBikes/comments/16geyx8/will_the_magene_power_meter_pesp505_base_fit_the/)
When I first saw this I also found some cases of successful installation nonetheless. I was looking into it because I have a gravel frame on the way with a T47 and was planning on using my PM with it. Hopefully it will work anyway.
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let's keep each other updated.
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Full bicycle picture attached.
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Mine has been painted and ready for shipping.
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wow that looks spot on,
Ordered 2 weeks ago size 56 white, no mounts on the fork
eta was mid July
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wow that looks spot on,
Ordered 2 weeks ago size 56 white, no mounts on the fork
eta was mid July
Interesting. I asked if I could have no fork mounts, they could only offer to use rubber plugs instead. Anyway, I've order low profile titanium bolts that should look a bit better.
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Interesting. I asked if I could have no fork mounts, they could only offer to use rubber plugs instead. Anyway, I've order low profile titanium bolts that should look a bit better.
It is okay, you can contact eddy.
eddy@haidelibicycle.com
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Interesting. I asked if I could have no fork mounts, they could only offer to use rubber plugs instead. Anyway, I've order low profile titanium bolts that should look a bit better.
Nice idea. Any delivery date yet?
Whats your plan for stem/handlebar? The provided intergrated headset cover looks hard to match stem to neatly
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It's been dispatched. I went for a Lexon flared bar. I've got so many different spacers from various builds I hoping I can make it work. The Lexon bars also came with a good assortment.
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It's been dispatched. I went for a Lexon flared bar. I've got so many different spacers from various builds I hoping I can make it work. The Lexon bars also came with a good assortment.
Very interested in this frame - good tire clearance, love the frame pocket, good geometry (for me). When you get it I'd love to see what they include with it. What bottom bracket are you putting into it? Also (if I can request), I'd love to see a measurement of the non-drive side crank clearance for a crank arm powermeter. Trying to make sure a 4iii fits:
https://www2023-assets.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/manuals-guides/precision-3/p3-clearance.pdf
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I'll do a youtube video of the build.
I've gone for a ZTTO T47 BB. No idea if it'll be any good or not.
Alugear chainring and Magene P505 (hopefully it fits). Ltwoo e-gr groupset with an out of spec 11-50 ZTTO cassette (currently installed on a Ribble CGR).
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I'll do a youtube video of the build.
I've gone for a ZTTO T47 BB. No idea if it'll be any good or not.
Alugear chainring and Magene P505 (hopefully it fits). Ltwoo e-gr groupset with an out of spec 11-50 ZTTO cassette (currently installed on a Ribble CGR).
I'll be waiting for that! interested to see the headset topcap for integrated cable routing as it looks like it will need to be changed
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@gloscherrybomb
Infact I'm sure im going to need to change headset/topcap
Can you confirm od of the topcap when you receive yours plz
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I'll be waiting for that! interested to see the headset topcap for integrated cable routing as it looks like it will need to be changed
Do you have more pics, are you pleased with it
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@jb3112
thats a picture i found online, still waiting for mine to be produced
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ykfbiyrt-qM
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Yet another one where the geo doesn't match the tire clearance except in the small sizes. HTA / STA and FC / WB are garbage in the larger sizes.
What frame would you recomend
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Build in progress. Some quick fire notes before a much more detailed review post-build:
Good:
- Paint job is immaculate. Really impressed
- Shipping was quick considering it was custom
- overall laypup quality seems very good from what you can see internally
Bad:
- They didn't include the downtube storage toolkit bag which was expected. Have contacted them, so hopefully they can send it.
- The hole for the rear thu-axle is nor circular or at all a close fit for the thru-axle. It does seem to clamp down well and not move, so maybe not an issue in-use
- The various mounting bolts are crazy heavy. I've swapped them all out for practically weightless rubber bungs or titanium bolts
- I had to space out the magene P505 by 2mm, not because it fouled the frame (I might have needed a really thin spacer) but because my 46T chainring fouled the chainstay. 46T isn't massive for a 1X, so that's worth bearing in mind.
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Build in progress. Some quick fire notes before a much more detailed review post-build:
Good:
- Paint job is immaculate. Really impressed
- Shipping was quick considering it was custom
- overall laypup quality seems very good from what you can see internally
Bad:
- They didn't include the downtube storage toolkit bag which was expected. Have contacted them, so hopefully they can send it.
- The hole for the rear thu-axle is nor circular or at all a close fit for the thru-axle. It does seem to clamp down well and not move, so maybe not an issue in-use
- The various mounting bolts are crazy heavy. I've swapped them all out for practically weightless rubber bungs or titanium bolts
- I had to space out the magene P505 by 2mm, not because it fouled the frame (I might have needed a really thin spacer) but because my 46T chainring fouled the chainstay. 46T isn't massive for a 1X, so that's worth bearing in mind.
Paint looks great. When you do your buildup I'd love to see clearance of the crank on the non drive side (mentioned it above) for a crank PM. Also, what is the steerer tube diameter? I was told 52mm, which is definitely not it.
The thru axle hole being large isn't a good thing. That should be a pretty tight tolerance hole. What diameter is the hole?
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Someone already tried to fit in 29.2.25 tires? i think that would be a really fast and robust setup for racing.
Could someone try to fit it in en show how it runs then?
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Paint looks great. When you do your buildup I'd love to see clearance of the crank on the non drive side (mentioned it above) for a crank PM. Also, what is the steerer tube diameter? I was told 52mm, which is definitely not it.
The thru axle hole being large isn't a good thing. That should be a pretty tight tolerance hole. What diameter is the hole?
I'll try to answer all of your questions later today. The steerer tube is standard 28.6.
There's a short video attached to this post of the complete build minus chain. Full weight including pedals, garmin, etc 8.6kg which I think is very reasonable. 8.4kg with chain, without pedals and garmin.
Full build list:
- Tideace Noah custom paint
- Wheels from Peter (search forum). Custom spec - 24mm internal hooked wavy rims, pillar wing spokes, ratchet style hub
- Lexon UNOX gravel handlebar
- Magene P505 power meter spider/cranks (167.5mm)
- Alugear narrow/wide chainring (46T)
- LTWOO e-gr groupset
- ZTTO 11-50T cassette
- ZTTO T47 BB
- RYET ultralight saddle
- Panaracer gravelking 43mm tyres
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Someone already tried to fit in 29.2.25 tires? i think that would be a really fast and robust setup for racing.
Could someone try to fit it in en show how it runs then?
I'll take measurements later but I think it will fit a 2.2 no problem.
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I'll take measurements later but I think it will fit a 2.2 no problem.
Pictures in the first post here show measurements of the clearance. Smallest is 66mm. With reasonable clearance (6mm a side?) something like 2.1" should fit comfortably. 2.2" may be stretching it a bit. It would be good to see what you get in your measurements, though.
BTW, those wheels are awesome. Oh, and where did you get those bungs?
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very nice work gloscherrybomb...
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Pictures in the first post here show measurements of the clearance. Smallest is 66mm. With reasonable clearance (6mm a side?) something like 2.1" should fit comfortably. 2.2" may be stretching it a bit. It would be good to see what you get in your measurements, though.
BTW, those wheels are awesome. Oh, and where did you get those bungs?
Thanks. A great service from Peter being able to spec everything as you wish. If there is one thing, I would have liked a wider internal rim width (maybe a 27/28) but they are still tremendous value.
Frame plugs: https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/accessories/id-m5-frame-plugs-pack-of-20/ (https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/accessories/id-m5-frame-plugs-pack-of-20/)
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Thanks. A great service from Peter being able to spec everything as you wish. If there is one thing, I would have liked a wider internal rim width (maybe a 27/28) but they are still tremendous value.
Frame plugs: https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/accessories/id-m5-frame-plugs-pack-of-20/ (https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/accessories/id-m5-frame-plugs-pack-of-20/)
Evidently Tideace really likes your bike - https://tideacebike.com/blogs/news/why-tideacebike-carbon-fiber-bicycle-frame-is-the-best-choice
BTW, if you get a chance to measure that non drive side clearance I'd appreciate it!
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All clearly written by chatgpt
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Attached
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Eddy kindly sent me this measurement from CAD for the non drive side clearance. It's tighter than my CFR696, but it at least *looks* like a crank based PM fits. Gloss or Osh, if you get a chance to confirm this with a real measurement it would be greatly appreciated.
https://imgur.com/a/Eah0vB7
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11mm clearance Magene P505
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Received frame last week. Took abit longer than expected but once sent arrived very fast to Australia No duty payable
paint is very nice, as is the overall finish
Its a heavyweight Size 56 without front derailleur mount 1375g
Hopfully get it built up shortly
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Thanks for the feedback from Jonny.
INCREDIBLE gravel frame!
If you're reading this, you're probably mid-way through the same process I went through - trying to work out whether or not buying a direct-from-China bike frame, is something you're going to regret - can it really be as good as a "big bike manufacturer?".
Well I've had my NOAH for a month now and so far, so fantastic. I am about 180cm / 74kg and I went for the 54. I am finding the fit as good as any bike I've ever owned. The aero handlebars that Tideace make are brilliant too. I love the flat section on the tops and the drops are the comfiest - and I've tried quite the selection.
Craziest bit - I entered a UK gravel event on 3rd August 2024 and out of 165 riders, the NOAH was the fastest bike by about 15 mins. THE FASTEST. Read that again.
I obviously can't recommend it enough - if you've read this far, you should buy it, it's BRILLIANT.
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Nice. I'm racing mine at the British Gravel Champs in 2 weeks time. I'll let you know if it's the bike or the rider ;D
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I'm currently seeing this frame and advice from Tideace is 49cm size (1m71). Is that correct ?
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Build complete
Went with size 56 I'm 182
Sram force shifters & brakes
Sram red xplr 13 speed derailleur and cassette
Enve AR 40cm bars
Mosso 90mm stem
Enve SES 4.5 wheels
tufo gravel thundero 48mm (tubeless 60ml sealant in each)
Ceramic speed T47 BB
Garbaruk gravel crankset
Garbaruk 38t chainring
Weight was 8.14 no cages pedals etc
Overall I'm happy with it. Rear brake mounts are on a slight angle took abit of work to not get it to rub. Really needs to be faced.
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Another one
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Another
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Build complete
Went with size 56 I'm 182
Sram force shifters & brakes
Sram red xplr 13 speed derailleur and cassette
Enve AR 40cm bars
Mosso 90mm stem
Enve SES 4.5 wheels
tufo gravel thundero 48mm (tubeless 60ml sealant in each)
Ceramic speed T47 BB
Garbaruk gravel crankset
Garbaruk 38t chainring
Weight was 8.14 no cages pedals etc
Overall I'm happy with it. Rear brake mounts are on a slight angle took abit of work to not get it to rub. Really needs to be faced.
How's clearance? Especially at the rear. Will a 2.1" fit? Will a 2.1" fit with an FD? Thundero 48 and FD? 2.2 race king fit on the front?
I'm considering this in the 54 for a rider I'm sponsoring. Other option is Liv Devote ... which has better geo and should have better build quality - but I'd have to swap out 80% of the kit to get the right setup for her.
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It will depend what they blow up to. These thundero measure 48mm exactly. There is clearance front and rear.
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It will depend what they blow up to. These thundero measure 48mm exactly. There is clearance front and rear.
What's the internal width of the rims?
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Build complete
Went with size 56 I'm 182
Sram force shifters & brakes
Sram red xplr 13 speed derailleur and cassette
Enve AR 40cm bars
Mosso 90mm stem
Enve SES 4.5 wheels
tufo gravel thundero 48mm (tubeless 60ml sealant in each)
Ceramic speed T47 BB
Garbaruk gravel crankset
Garbaruk 38t chainring
Weight was 8.14 no cages pedals etc
Overall I'm happy with it. Rear brake mounts are on a slight angle took abit of work to not get it to rub. Really needs to be faced.
High spec set up! Nice one. How does frame size feel? I'm the same height but went for 54 and it certainly doesn't feel compact. Although I think either 54 or 56 is likely fine.
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25mm
Thanks mate. Feels good only been for short 5 min ride. Didn't feel to stretched out. Will take it out tommrow and do my training session on it and report back.
What stem length you go with?
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90mm which gives a similar reach to my road bike that has a 110mm stem. The reach is super long on the frame
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I'll take measurements later but I think it will fit a 2.2 no problem.
do you see time to try this out?
i want to fit in the 29″ x 2.2″ (700C x 55) Antelope Hill TC Tire or even the Schwalbe – G-One Speed Addix Speedgrip 29X2.35
so need to know the clearence i have
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It will take a 55mm measured for sure. Whether you seem it acceptable would depend on conditions
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Mine just came in. Color 55 - lots of blue and purple. It was dusk during picture time, so didn't show it off very well. It took right at 3 weeks for them to produce the frame. Eddy must be married to the UPS guy's sister or something. Picked up in Hong Kong yesterday and delivered to Alabama today. A day and a half delivery - HFS.
Gave it a good lookover. Paint job is super clean. Top headset is a bit tight, but the bearing does go in. Seatpost may be too slick, though I did clamp it and it seems to be very solid. Not sure if I want a zero offset post anyway, so may put my old one in. It is indeed about 1" longer than a Carbonda 696 small - I was terribly squeezed on that frame (which is kind of a shame, it is a solid frame).
Weights:
Frame - 1265g (no bolts, with derailleur hangar)
Fork - 425g uncut, no bolts
Seatpost - 164g
For shits and giggles I weighed all the bolts - 76g. Most of those will be replaced with plastic screws. Frame spec is 1150g +-50 unpainted, so 1238 painted (no bolts, no hangar) passes the smell test. It isn't a super light frame, but that isn't its purpose. The door is 70g all by itself, so a bit heavy. But that's the bling on this frame, so totally worth it.
It does look like it has plenty of clearance on the non-drive side for a 4iii powermeter. That's what I was most worried about.
The headset provided is 4 piece - no crown race. That doesn't seem right - what did everyone else get?
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No crown race on most forks these days. Already have the mating surface from the carbon.
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Done a few rides 150km total. Half road half gravel
As we all know ride feel is very subjective... and I'm still tweaking a few bits.
So far I'm finding it good. The door doesn't rattle or move around which I was worried about. It is very secure.
Found it to be abit twitchy in corners. On a downhill with bumps I'm felling like it wants to buck me off. I thing a sloped top tube and more seatpost sticking out this thing would be a home run.
But considering the price point I'm impressed.
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A chance meeting of two Tideace Noahs at Raiders Gravel and the British Gravel Champs.
Both super happy with it!
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Finished the build. Or at least a preliminary stop gap until I decide how high I want the bars - they'll come down a bit, just not sure how much. This bike is designed as a do all long haul road/gravel bike - definitely not getting this anywhere near as low as my S5 roadie. I'm going to plan a day to move the bars down a bit to get to where I want and then do a final cut. This came in at 9.05kg, which isn't bad considering that I'm using lower end components and wheels than Osh or Gloss. Equipment:
GRX600 2x mechanical
4iii powermeter
HED Emporia GA rims
32mm GP5000s
FSA Adventure bars (heavy, but not a fan of lots of flare)
Redshift stem
Praxis T47 IB bottom bracket
With 43mm gravelkings it's more like 9.2kgs - damn tires are heavy. There is tons of room in this frame for more. 2.1" should not be a problem if one can live with .25" of clearance to the frame. Everything seems spot on except the brakes, which I'm having a bear of a time getting centered. They just seem to barely rub - still mucking with them (Edit: I think I got them worked). Everything else went together well. This is a semi internal routing setup, so I used all of the headset pieces sent with it. Loads of fun wrangling with four wires through the frame, but it did go together and the pass through cap seems to work fine. Powermeter has plenty of space - no worries there. Not sure I like the bar tape, but it'll do for now.
Also, the downtube compartment and tool bag rock. It's got a nice set of tools/supplies in it and it fits fine. It also doubles as a big hold down for the cables going through, so no rattle evident at all.
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Nice work
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Do those weights include the toolbag and tools?
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Do those weights include the toolbag and tools?
No, includes pedals, bottle cages, Garmin mount. Not the tool bag or tools. Tool bag is light. Tools are pretty heavy.
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How long did it from placing the order to receiving the frame?
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How long did it from placing the order to receiving the frame?
3 weeks on the nose for me. Like I mentioned above, though, somehow the frame got from Hong Kong to me (Alabama) in like 2 days. Ridiculous and I must have had a fairy riding along for that to happen. I think the other guys in here also experienced about 3 weeks to get to shipping.
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Could anybody with this frame confirm the size/spec of the headset bearings? Mainly the angles, I'm 99% sure they are 52mm x 40mm x 8mm...
I have this frame but somehow lost the headset bearings and want to make sure I am sourcing a replacement that will fit.
Thanks!
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Try emailing them. Unfortunately not an easy thing to take out and measure!
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Try emailing them. Unfortunately not an easy thing to take out and measure!
Yeah, I sent them an e-mail as well. Wouldn't ask or expect anyone to do disassembly to check! Just hoping maybe somebody hadn't put theirs together yet or maybe had a picture.
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Both top and bottom are 52-7
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Got a chance to give her a nice ride over the weekend. Frame is solid. Very stable, but can't whip it around like my old S5 (nothing surprising here - that's what these frames should do). The 32mm tires make me feel like I'm on rails - so much traction in turns it's crazy. The zero offset seatpost will take some getting used to, but it felt good. Not sure how fast the frame is, but it sure didn't feel slow and my average speed was totally reasonable.
Saddle is replaced and bars will definitely come down a half inch or so (at least). Oh, and I totally lied when I said I thought the tools in the downtube would mute cable rattled. Cables rattled like a mofo. I have foam and will be treating cables this weekend to try and get rid of that. None of that is the fault of the frame, though. In fact, getting to the cables through the downtube is trivial - so nice. So far very happy with this frame.
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I used some pipe lagging and it stopped any rattling.
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Hi,
I am about to order this frame as well. Did you already have problems with the tool bag cover? How secure is it? Do you think this could lead to problems in the future?
Maybe there is a possibility to order a spare cover.
Thank you!
Edit: what size would you recommend for 187cm and 88cm inseam length? 56 or 58?
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I was very impressed with the quality of the bag. Its very big. You could fit 2 bags in the frame. 1 downwards 1 upwards.
I'm 182 and went 56 with 90mm stem. Happy so far. 500 kms on it now
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I was very impressed with the quality of the bag. Its very big. You could fit 2 bags in the frame. 1 downwards 1 upwards.
I'm 182 and went 56 with 90mm stem. Happy so far. 500 kms on it now
Thanks for your reply. I didn´t mean the bag itself, but the cover. Is this kind of loose? Or could this lead to problems in the future?
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I have found it to be very secure. With a 700ml bottle it's doesn't rattle... even off road.
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I have very slight movement at the bottom of the cover. I applied some liquid electrical tape just to make it a slightly softer surface and that seems to have stopped it.
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I ordered this frame aswell.
But I dont want to use the standard handlebar.
Where can i find a stem that fits the unusual 1 1/2" headset?
Or can I use a 1 1/8" stem??
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It uses 1 1/8 stem. The bigger bearing is to fit cables through
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Mine just came in. Color 55 - lots of blue and purple. It was dusk during picture time, so didn't show it off very well. It took right at 3 weeks for them to produce the frame. Eddy must be married to the UPS guy's sister or something. Picked up in Hong Kong yesterday and delivered to Alabama today. A day and a half delivery - HFS.
Gave it a good lookover. Paint job is super clean. Top headset is a bit tight, but the bearing does go in. Seatpost may be too slick, though I did clamp it and it seems to be very solid. Not sure if I want a zero offset post anyway, so may put my old one in. It is indeed about 1" longer than a Carbonda 696 small - I was terribly squeezed on that frame (which is kind of a shame, it is a solid frame).
Weights:
Frame - 1265g (no bolts, with derailleur hangar)
Fork - 425g uncut, no bolts
Seatpost - 164g
For shits and giggles I weighed all the bolts - 76g. Most of those will be replaced with plastic screws. Frame spec is 1150g +-50 unpainted, so 1238 painted (no bolts, no hangar) passes the smell test. It isn't a super light frame, but that isn't its purpose. The door is 70g all by itself, so a bit heavy. But that's the bling on this frame, so totally worth it.
It does look like it has plenty of clearance on the non-drive side for a 4iii powermeter. That's what I was most worried about.
The headset provided is 4 piece - no crown race. That doesn't seem right - what did everyone else get?
Stunning! Think I want the same color, do you have more pictures for me? :)
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Is there any information on the max. chainring size?
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Is there any information on the max. chainring size?
For the single chainring size is 44T, so for double it would be compatible with 50/34 is what I got for information.
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Do you know the chainline for 44T? Is there a chance a 46T will fit with a SRAM Wide Crankset?
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Do you know the chainline for 44T? Is there a chance a 46T will fit with a SRAM Wide Crankset?
No clue tbh, dind ask. I plan on running 2x GRX for now. Might try something 1x but for my flat dutch lands 2x will be best.
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I'm running a 46T. With my Magene P505 I run a very thin spacer which gives enough space between chainring and chainstay.
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Thank you. I will try it although I need this Special SRAM Tool for changing the chainring on the XPLR crank.
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46 is pretty good. Might be worth a shot.
How long did it take from order to delivery for you guys? Eddy said 3-10 days for painting and 5-15 for shipping. I wanna start riding ASAP! :) Hate waiting :D
Also, what kind of bottom bracket are you guys running for offroad? I got a ceramicspeed T47a on my Factor but for offroad ceramic bearings... Idk about that. Looking for options!
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I will use the BBinfinite T47i
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I went ceramicspeed.... I will just be more diligent with servicing
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Hmm yeah,
Chris King ThreadFit T47-24i Bottom Bracket
Bbinfinite T47-Internal Shimano Bottom Brackets (Just sucks wiht import costs due to American))
Wheels Manafacturing T47 ABEC-3 BB for 24mm (Shimano) Cranks (I still have a set of 2437 hambini bearings)
White Industries Internal Bottom Bracket - T47- (No sleeve tho)
But then theres also stuff like Rotor, Token, C-bear.
So many options. I've heard great things about Chris King BB's but pretty expensive...
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I went for a cheap ZTTO BB and swapped out the bearings for Enduro ones with contact seal outboard and non-contact seal inboard.
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Check! Is there any non SRAM UDH users here? As I plan to use GRX DI2 , Does the frame also come with a standard hangar or do I need something like wheels mfg dropout 562?
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Stunning! Think I want the same color, do you have more pictures for me? :)
I don't have any more, but it's the same color as this road bike on their site:
https://tideacebike.com/collections/road-bike-frame/products/fm-cr068-aerodynamic-road-racing-bike-frame
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46 is pretty good. Might be worth a shot.
How long did it take from order to delivery for you guys? Eddy said 3-10 days for painting and 5-15 for shipping. I wanna start riding ASAP! :) Hate waiting :D
Also, what kind of bottom bracket are you guys running for offroad? I got a ceramicspeed T47a on my Factor but for offroad ceramic bearings... Idk about that. Looking for options!
3 weeks to my door, but the shipping time was like 2 days. Still agog at that one.
For BB I used the Praxis IB T47 one. Reasonable cost and it works fine, though I haven't tortured the bike off-road yet.
Check! Is there any non SRAM UDH users here? As I plan to use GRX DI2 , Does the frame also come with a standard hangar or do I need something like wheels mfg dropout 562?
Maybe I'm a dumb ass, but I used what they sent, hooked it up to my GRX 600 stuff and it works. I have no idea if what they sent is UDH or a standard hangar.
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Its always UDH but Wheels Manufacturing offers a special UDH hanger for Shimano Direct Mount.
https://wheelsmfg.com/derailleur-hangers/universal-derailleur-hangers/derailleur-hanger-562.html
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UDH is a standard for the dropout. It comes with a hanger and will work with *ANY* RD. I'm using LTWOO.
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I've been eyeing this frame for months now. Hoping TanTan will sell me their OEM version for a bit cheaper and so I can paint it myself.
The problem is I've been trying to review this entire thread on the geometry, and am still wrecking my brain LoL
My current gravel bike is a Yoeleo G21 in a size 56. Perhaps I should just stick with that.
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Thanks! Ill use the default mount for now then!
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I've been eyeing this frame for months now. Hoping TanTan will sell me their OEM version for a bit cheaper and so I can paint it myself.
The problem is I've been trying to review this entire thread on the geometry, and am still wrecking my brain LoL
My current gravel bike is a Yoeleo G21 in a size 56. Perhaps I should just stick with that.
How tall are you?
You can put the measurements in to one of the online geometry comparison tools and see how it looks versus your existing frames. FWIW I am 182cm tall and have a 54 with a 100mm stem (the reach of this frame is super long). That puts me roughly in the same position as on my Yoeleo R12 RB which has a 110mm stem. I run quite a few spacers compared to my road bike for a bit more control and actually a more comfortable aero position when needed.
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How tall are you?
You can put the measurements in to one of the online geometry comparison tools and see how it looks versus your existing frames. FWIW I am 182cm tall and have a 54 with a 100mm stem (the reach of this frame is super long). That puts me roughly in the same position as on my Yoeleo R12 RB which has a 110mm stem. I run quite a few spacers compared to my road bike for a bit more control and actually a more comfortable aero position when needed.
I'm 183cm tall. My SL8 setup is 393mm frame reach (Size 56/L) with a 140mm cockpit. Mostly slammed.
Obviously this isn't ideal for a gravel bike. My Yoeleo G21 Gravel bike is a size 56/L with a reach of 387mm, stack 586mm, and I'm running a 120mm stem integrated cockpit. It's comfortable for all-day on country gravel roads. Although the 200km ride I did on my SL8 this past weekend was also comfortable after 6 hours.
I dont suffer any toe overlap with my Yoeleo G21. But I would like a gravel frame with more frame reach, a longer wheelbase, with some extremely tall stack.
Looks like size 540 would make the most sense. With either a 110 or 120 stem cockpit. My plan so is to hop into some gravel races next year so need to run a front end to be able to attach TT bars.
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I've been eyeing this frame for months now. Hoping TanTan will sell me their OEM version for a bit cheaper and so I can paint it myself.
My prices at TanTan were 470$ for frame and fork, 20$ for ThruAxles and 150$ for shipping. (110$ for a two color paint job)
Just for your information. Should arrive in 2-3 weeks
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Is there any difference between the frames?
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My prices at TanTan were 470$ for frame and fork, 20$ for ThruAxles and 150$ for shipping. (110$ for a two color paint job)
Just for your information. Should arrive in 2-3 weeks
I don't know how TanTan can offer that frame at such cheap prices. Maybe I don't wanna know LoL.
My TanTan X38 (Scott Foil clone) cost me about $600 and the design had be released for a while.
Apparently I'm part of TanTan's email newsletters for newly released products. When they emailed about the release of their new GR201 I asked the price. They replied with "Whats your MOQ? This for OEM buyers only."
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Is there any difference between the frames?
No I don´t think so. But TanTan does not offer a frame bag.
I don't know how TanTan can offer that frame at such cheap prices. Maybe I don't wanna know LoL.
My TanTan X38 (Scott Foil clone) cost me about $600 and the design had be released for a while.
Apparently I'm part of TanTan's email newsletters for newly released products. When they emailed about the release of their new GR201 I asked the price. They replied with "Whats your MOQ? This for OEM buyers only."
Okay, i just ordered one frame from them and this was also my first order from TanTan, so i think you can also order one for yourself.
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For Tideace GV201 frame has five Years warranty.
And the seatpost, tool bag, headset, clamp both included.
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Loaded up.
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https://youtu.be/TQ0FKMyiUxY?si=u87-2qq2YT-YMug3
Sick color, can't wait to receive my frame and enjoy this color in person :)
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Hi guys
Have decided to bite the bullet and get this frame. Thank you for all the contributions to this thread, they've been very helpful.
I have two outstanding questions:
- I see that it mentioned that Tantan offers the same frame. Is there a reason other than price to prefer them?
- regardless of whether one purchases from Tantan or Tideace, what's the best channel to buy one from the UK? Should I email someone, or buy from a website specifically?
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Hi guys
Have decided to bite the bullet and get this frame. Thank you for all the contributions to this thread, they've been very helpful.
I have two outstanding questions:
- I see that it mentioned that Tantan offers the same frame. Is there a reason other than price to prefer them?
- regardless of whether one purchases from Tantan or Tideace, what's the best channel to buy one from the UK? Should I email someone, or buy from a website specifically?
Hi,
in my opinion you could easily go with both.
I have only heard good things about TanTan and also their service and reply time is excellent.
I think Tideace is also a good choice but I have no experience with them.
You can contact TanTan via AliExpress etc. but the best way is via e-mail.
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Hi guys
Have decided to bite the bullet and get this frame. Thank you for all the contributions to this thread, they've been very helpful.
I have two outstanding questions:
- I see that it mentioned that Tantan offers the same frame. Is there a reason other than price to prefer them?
- regardless of whether one purchases from Tantan or Tideace, what's the best channel to buy one from the UK? Should I email someone, or buy from a website specifically?
I had contact with Eddy through Whatsapp and he send me an invoice through PayPal , he's also on this forum. You can email him at eddy@haidelibicycle.com. Had no problems, quick communication and answered all the questions :)
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Yes, feel free to contact us.
Whatsapp: +86 184 7536 8733
Email:
eddy@haidelibicycle.com
official@tideacebike.com
For the GV201 frame, Tideace has five years warranty.
Thanks for the supporting of all members from forum.
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How is the headset bearing quality? Because getting them out is a terrible task with integrated cockpits. Might be worth to swap straight away for some good quality SKF bearing. Can anyone confirm the size for the bearings?
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How is the headset bearing quality? Because getting them out is a terrible task with integrated cockpits. Might be worth to swap straight away for some good quality SKF bearing. Can anyone confirm the size for the bearings?
I dont know about the quality. For the size of the bearings look at page 6 of this Thread.
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I dont know about the quality. For the size of the bearings look at page 6 of this Thread.
Ah good shout, missed them. So standard 6808 or 61808 bearing, 52x40x7 those are easily obtained. Made by SKF and every other well known maker. I hate taking apart headsets with integraded cables. Such a pain, having a good pair of headset bearings saves a bunch of trouble.
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Maybe someone else can say something about the quality?
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3d printed a holder for co2 and dynaplug to mount on the back of the glovebox cover for quick access. Came out soon good happy to send anyone the print file if intrested
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Picture
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3d printed a holder for co2 and dynaplug to mount on the back of the glovebox cover for quick access. Came out soon good happy to send anyone the print file if intrested
Oh yeah that looks interesting! Can you send me the file? Dont have a 3d printer but im sure that can be arranged!
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For the single Chainring MAX size is 55T.
Thanks
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I use 50/34 oval chainrings from ROTOR. Do you know if they fit with standard road chain line? I run 12S Ultegra di2 and if I play with the spacers and extend the chainline, then the FD will not work as setting the H/L limits is very limited. Another point is that I need to move FD relatively high (for equivalent of ra 52T chainring), it is not possible in some cases as the FD mount is not high enough.
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For the single Chainring MAX size is 55T.
Thanks
I don't think this is right. I had to use a small spacer so that it would take my 46T!
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Picture
Could I get this too please? Also don't have a printer but will send it to a 3rd party.
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Does Tideace offer this frame without logos and with custom paint?
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Does Tideace offer this frame without logos and with custom paint?
Yes, I ordered an unpainted frame by email.
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Yes, I ordered an unpainted frame by email.
I see the option for unpainted, but nothing for painted without logos.
Not a fan of the logos :)
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Just ask for no logos, not a problem.
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I see the option for unpainted, but nothing for painted without logos.
Not a fan of the logos :)
They will. I asked for the big logo to be omitted and with custom paint. No problem. I'm sure they'd do one with no logos.
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Hi:
Feel free to contact us.
It would be both okay to with the frame painted or not painted, in raw or customized color and logo.
Thanks.
Eddy
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Loaded up.
You got your rear GP5000 in the wrong rollin rotation
just you know :)
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You got your rear GP5000 in the wrong rollin rotation
just you know :)
Lol, oh no. I might average 15.97mph instead of 16.
;D
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Lol, oh no. I might average 15.97mph instead of 16.
More likely 15.94 mph, because the front wheel has also the wrong direction. ;)
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My frame was shipped today
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My frame was shipped today
Nice! That sounds good! When did you order again?
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One month ago, 14.09.2024
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One month ago, 14.09.2024
Check, a bit of a backlog I guess. I ordered 22.09.2024. What size is this? Color code 55 I think also? Same as mine.
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Its Color Code 60 and size 58
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Would you consider providing a blanking plate for the FD mount when it is run 1x?
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He told me that a cover is available and wanted to add it to my order. I will report.
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A lot customized painting GV201 being done and shipped out.
Any interested contact us.
Best regards
Eddy
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My prices at TanTan were 470$ for frame and fork, 20$ for ThruAxles and 150$ for shipping. (110$ for a two color paint job)
Just for your information. Should arrive in 2-3 weeks
With handlebar combo?
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With handlebar combo?
TanTan offers the same frame including a handlebar - I paid 744 dollars with included shipping and prepaid customs and PayPal fee
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Did somebody already put 2.25 tires in it? with pictures of it?
greetings Ossip
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Does the frame come with round or aero spacers? I much prefer the looks of the aero/square spacers. But if theyre not included, have to order them separate. Most I see with the square/integraded spacers but some also have round.
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Does the frame come with round or aero spacers? I much prefer the looks of the aero/square spacers. But if theyre not included, have to order them separate. Most I see with the square/integraded spacers but some also have round.
You can order both. Just tell them what you want.
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My frame is now painted and ready for shipping. I think it looks quite nice 8)
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Looks really good! Congrats on a stunner.
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Did somebody already put 2.25 tires in it? with pictures of it?
greetings Ossip
Tried it today in the rear. Doesn't fit, not even close.
I don't think a 2.2 would work either unless it was slick. 2.1 is probably fine.
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My frame is now painted and ready for shipping. I think it looks quite nice 8)
Looks quite nice honestly. It was a frame didn't like so much, but looks great with that paintjob. Good choice. Looking forward for the final build
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Spot the NOAH https://youtu.be/DW0eONO_blw?si=zNw6iIaAwg4-NKjG
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Got a GR201 on order in gold/champagne color. Pretty excited.
My plan is to run a separate bar/stem combo to easily add TT bars later. While the likelihood of ever using TT bars is minimal unless I do Unbound 200, it will be nice to play around with the front end for optimal fit.
Can't decide on Di2 12sp 2x, or Sram eTap 1x. Or XPLR 1x 13sp. The latter is quite expensive.
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Shorter chainstays and a slightly steeper seat tube would get me interested. This would probably reduce the top tube length by a bit as well.
Well...I take it back, I'm officially interested. I had a steel gravel frame built for me with custom geo earlier this year and I've since finished a couple of races on it. I've since been toying with the idea of building a new steel frame with some geo and tire clearance updates, but realized the GR021/NOAH in size 54 is basically the same as what I had in my head, for a lower price point and the bonus of downtube storage.
I ordered a raw frame from Longteng, which is slightly more expensive than Tan Tan but with faster shipping options. They said the frame was "in stock ready to ship". Turns out it's not in stock and production will take at least 10 days, but it's no big deal, I need time to think up a paint job anyway.
Will be transferring the TRP/Eagle AXS groupset from my other bike for now but looking at GRX mechanical, Ekar, or a Force 1 groupset I have sitting in a box for the long term. With the Force group, I'd have to get the Ratio 12 speed mod and a Garbaruk cage.
I would build it with the LTwoo EGR if it allowed for a cassette larger than 46T. :(
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Got a GR201 on order in gold/champagne color. Pretty excited.
My plan is to run a separate bar/stem combo to easily add TT bars later. While the likelihood of ever using TT bars is minimal unless I do Unbound 200, it will be nice to play around with the front end for optimal fit.
Can't decide on Di2 12sp 2x, or Sram eTap 1x. Or XPLR 1x 13sp. The latter is quite expensive.
Ltwoo e-gr or wheeltop GeX. If you're going in, go fully in.
My e-gr has been great on this frame, and I'm sure the wheeltop would be too. as a 1X setup they are particularly well suited (as FD shift quality is a differentiator with high-end groupsets)
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Spot the NOAH https://youtu.be/DW0eONO_blw?si=zNw6iIaAwg4-NKjG
But with another bar/stem combo.
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Spot the NOAH https://youtu.be/DW0eONO_blw?si=zNw6iIaAwg4-NKjG
Did you also notice that he put tape around the storage box? That is not a good sign, right? Or it is just out of precaution...
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Did you also notice that he put tape around the storage box? That is not a good sign, right? Or it is just out of precaution...
Mine doesn't rattle. I do have it full, though.
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Mine doesn't rattle. I do have it full, though.
What do you have inside of it? Got some pictures?
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Mine doesn't rattle. I do have it full, though.
Does the frame comes with some kind of bag for the storage? Do you yave a pic?
Thanks
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I dont suffer any toe overlap with my Yoeleo G21. But I would like a gravel frame with more frame reach, a longer wheelbase, with some extremely tall stack.
I would caution you against increasing your reach too much - yes, you can compensate with a shorter stem, but then you'll end up with too much weight on your saddle. you can compensate for that w/shorter stack to shift more weight forward, but then your back will start complaining. Increasing both will jack everything up. if you're comfortable w/your current stack/reach for 6hrs there's a good chance that's as good as it gets.
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What do you have inside of it? Got some pictures?
The frame does come with a "stuff bag", i.e. the Tideace Schlong. Two pics of the sealed bag and with stuff. It all barely fits and keeps everything snug once the cover is on. Stuff I carry in there:
Tube
CO2 and mini inflator
Multitool (say it like Leeloo)
Zip ties
plug tool
boot material (dog food packaging)
Levers
alcohol wipe
a couple compressed wipes
quicklinks
a bit of TP ('cause you never know!)
extra valve and valve tool
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FWIW I have a minimal setup in mine with the provided tool bag and no rattle. I also use a foam sleeve for the rear brake hose which has made it a lot quieter.
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I have another question regarding the internal storage, for those that already have the full bike.
Do the cable have any sort of "guidance" inside the down tube or all they just randomly going down towards the bottom bracket area?
I ask because I've seen at least one vid from Seraph/TanTan where the cables are just loosely going down the frame, while I know some western brands manage to keep the storage clean (ex. Propain Terrel)
https://youtu.be/F_YlUI-BSlk (https://youtu.be/F_YlUI-BSlk)
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I have another question regarding the internal storage, for those that already have the full bike.
Do the cable have any sort of "guidance" inside the down tube or all they just randomly going down towards the bottom bracket area?
I ask because I've seen at least one vid from Seraph/TanTan where the cables are just loosely going down the frame, while I know some western brands manage to keep the storage clean (ex. Propain Terrel)
https://youtu.be/F_YlUI-BSlk (https://youtu.be/F_YlUI-BSlk)
Just loose, no guidance. Use a foam sleeve and it won't shift about. They're like £1 on AliExpress.
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Yeah I use Jagwire Internal Housing Damper Frame Foam, never really had a problem with it. Its just the brake hoses anyway. With some foam, you shouldn't have got any rattle.
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Ordered it today through Tantan
529$ UD Glossy size 49 with HB047 120*36 and seatpost
150$ sending to Germany
10$ headset
20$ thru axle
Gonna be build with EGr and elite gravel 45mm
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Sweet!
Finally, I've pulled a triger on my own after reading all of positive things ya'll said.
Found a factory that supplies Tideace and after few e-mails got myself a sweet deal (635$= white glossy painted frame,seatpost,axels,head-tube bearings,UDH hanger and Tax free shipping to EU)
Can't wait to build it with parts that I've been collecting since 08/2024 which are:
Elite wheels ENT-disc 38mm ,,Forging pattern,,
Shimano di2 105 2x12s
ZRACE XG brake callipers
Quarq/Riro cranks with 50/34 chainring
Bucklos 3D/carbon fake S-Works saddle
Rhinowalk frame bags
Topeak Mtx Super Tourist Dx Disc Mtx 2.0
And some other that is yet to be purchased for e.g Toseek TR5500 stem+bar combo after bikefitting
Will treat it as a tourist bike since my 2023 cannondale scalpel w/ Lefty will finally be only marathon and XC bike after over 3500km mostly road riding in Japan. I had also cannondale SuperSix Evo 2022 there (sold it after frame cracked...not even a year after 2nd-hand buy) and for sure I need something road focused, that can be flawlessly used on offroad, with quite amount of bags (and skateboard LOL).
Can't wait to show full build ;D
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I bought mine from TanTan direct to the UK and waiting on delivery now. I asked for plain carbon with a gloss finish over it.
So far Ive gathered a mix of a Sram AXS XPLR groupset with quarq and 44t 1x chain ring.
Still haven't decided fully on the wheels I want (9velo or ICAN probably) or what I want to do with the front end, looking at the Deda or FSA integrated setups.
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I bought mine from TanTan direct to the UK and waiting on delivery now. I asked for plain carbon with a gloss finish over it.
So far Ive gathered a mix of a Sram AXS XPLR groupset with quarq and 44t 1x chain ring.
Still haven't decided fully on the wheels I want (9velo or ICAN probably) or what I want to do with the front end, looking at the Deda or FSA integrated setups.
LOVE IT! Such a rad idea with that finish
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Sweet!
Finally, I've pulled a triger on my own after reading all of positive things ya'll said.
Found a factory that supplies Tideace and after few e-mails got myself a sweet deal (635$= white glossy painted frame,seatpost,axels,head-tube bearings,UDH hanger and Tax free shipping to EU)
Can't wait to build it with parts that I've been collecting since 08/2024 which are:
Elite wheels ENT-disc 38mm ,,Forging pattern,,
Shimano di2 105 2x12s
ZRACE XG brake callipers
Quarq/Riro cranks with 50/34 chainring
Bucklos 3D/carbon fake S-Works saddle
Rhinowalk frame bags
Topeak Mtx Super Tourist Dx Disc Mtx 2.0
And some other that is yet to be purchased for e.g Toseek TR5500 stem+bar combo after bikefitting
Will treat it as a tourist bike since my 2023 cannondale scalpel w/ Lefty will finally be only marathon and XC bike after over 3500km mostly road riding in Japan. I had also cannondale SuperSix Evo 2022 there (sold it after frame cracked...not even a year after 2nd-hand buy) and for sure I need something road focused, that can be flawlessly used on offroad, with quite amount of bags (and skateboard LOL).
Can't wait to show full build ;D
Nice! I've looked at that Bucklos saddle. Still haven't decided, alot of reviews who are great. I have the orginal S-Works Power Mirror on my road bike and love it! It's nice that it has the SWAT mount for my radar. With this saddle you lose that but do save alot of money and some weight over my current saddle. Have you got personal experiences with that saddle?
My build has finished and first ride has been done. Absolutely love it at the moment!
Build list :
- Shimano 12 speed R8150 groupset with 50/34 cranks and 11-34 cassette and M9100 chain
- Lightbicycle AR55 Pro's with ERASE hubs that I had laying around which are handbuild, paired with Pathfinder 42mm's at the moment. For winter/muddy rides, will switch to a 45mm more nobby tire.
- Bbinfinite T47I bottom bracket
- My beloved ZIPP CX bartape
- Currently using a Specialized Power Arc saddle that I had laying around. Still deciding what saddle I wanna run
- Installed a bunch of 3M tape on the downtube, around BB and on the arms to keep the paint nice! :)
- Have my Favero Assioma DUO on them from my road bike, probably will buy Favero Assioma MX with some Black Friday deal
With this massive seatpost length and size 58 in custom paint, she is looking at 9.3kg right now. Can reduce this weight with saddle and lighter rims quite easily. Kinda want the new Nextie 25mm internal wavy rims! :D
Some pictures : https://imgur.com/a/tideace-gravelbike-MI9DSCx
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Page 12 broken?
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Page definitely broken
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Let's start a new page and hope for the best
Edit: success! At least for me it works again 8)
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Hmm yeah page 12 broken, I made a beautiful post about my bike and poof, gone! :(
Nice! I've looked at that Bucklos saddle. Still haven't decided, alot of reviews who are great. I have the orginal S-Works Power Mirror on my road bike and love it! It's nice that it has the SWAT mount for my radar. With this saddle you lose that but do save alot of money and some weight over my current saddle. Have you got personal experiences with that saddle?
My build has finished and first ride has been done. Absolutely love it at the moment!
Build list :
- Shimano 12 speed R8150 groupset with 50/34 cranks and 11-34 cassette and M9100 chain
- Lightbicycle AR55 Pro's with ERASE hubs that I had laying around which are handbuild, paired with Pathfinder 42mm's at the moment. For winter/muddy rides, will switch to a 45mm more nobby tire.
- Bbinfinite T47I bottom bracket
- My beloved ZIPP CX bartape
- Currently using a Specialized Power Arc saddle that I had laying around. Still deciding what saddle I wanna run
- Installed a bunch of 3M tape on the downtube, around BB and on the arms to keep the paint nice! :)
- Have my Favero Assioma DUO on them from my road bike, probably will buy Favero Assioma MX with some Black Friday deal
With this massive seatpost length and size 58 in custom paint, she is looking at 9.3kg right now. Can reduce this weight with saddle and lighter rims quite easily. Kinda want the new Nextie 25mm internal wavy rims! :D
Some pictures : https://imgur.com/a/tideace-gravelbike-MI9DSCx
Won't attach pictures this time, that's what caused the crash I think! :P
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Nice! I've looked at that Bucklos saddle. Still haven't decided, alot of reviews who are great. I have the orginal S-Works Power Mirror on my road bike and love it! It's nice that it has the SWAT mount for my radar. With this saddle you lose that but do save alot of money and some weight over my current saddle. Have you got personal experiences with that saddle?
Tbh just a video of a guy called ,,Everything's Been Done,, convinced me to give it a try
Found a post on local marketplace that someone bought two instead of one and a price was just to good to pass ;)
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Tbh just a video of a guy called ,,Everything's Been Done,, convinced me to give it a try
Found a post on local marketplace that someone bought two instead of one and a price was just to good to pass ;)
Right, they are €57 on Ali now. And with a €5 coupon it's at €52. At those prices, it's worth a shot!
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Is anyone looking at this and the Grail 2. gen (SPCycle G068) as well?
I'm trying to decide which to go with. I am currently riding a Giant Revolt (2023) M/L with a 120mm stem and it is just a bit on the small side (I'm 188cm, 90cm inside legs).
My riding is more racing than adventure. On the road I ride a 56cm Venge (2020) and a 58cm Supersix rim(2017). Both are ~400mm reach and with a 130mm stem. Venge has more spacers though ;D
I am drawn to the "progressive" geometry of the G068, but the GR201 seems like a good all around geometry that is similar to, but longer, than my Revolt (which I like a lot apart from wishing it was longer)
Opinions?
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Right, they are €57 on Ali now. And with a €5 coupon it's at €52. At those prices, it's worth a shot!
I have 3k plus miles on mine. Love it.
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Would love to have this frame like in the smaller sizes, but shorter chainstay. The 520 size looks great, but would be even better with 425mm chainstay and possibly 74deg seat tube (doesn't matter that much). Otherwise it looks great with ~71-71.5 deg steerer.
The G068 also looks great, but i would like to be able to fit 2.1" MTB tyres on, which G068 frame wont take - at least not without far too little spacing at the sides to the chainstays. Also the downtube storage is a plus on the GR201 compared to G068.
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My Frame came in on Saturday. I am currently building it up but I'm wondering how to lay the shift cables (mechanical grx) around the bottom bracket.
I layed them under the BB but I'm not sure if this is right? Under some tension it might be too tight an kind of saws through the crank??
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My Frame came in on Saturday. I am currently building it up but I'm wondering how to lay the shift cables (mechanical grx) around the bottom bracket.
I layed them under the BB but I'm not sure if this is right? Under some tension it might be too tight an kind of saws through the crank??
Yeah under the bb, under the metal sleeve. Put some foam around it, same with brake hoses. They wont rattle and not gonna tear the cable. I use Jagwire but any will do
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Well...I take it back, I'm officially interested. I had a steel gravel frame built for me with custom geo earlier this year and I've since finished a couple of races on it. I've since been toying with the idea of building a new steel frame with some geo and tire clearance updates, but realized the GR021/NOAH in size 54 is basically the same as what I had in my head, for a lower price point and the bonus of downtube storage.
I ordered a raw frame from Longteng, which is slightly more expensive than Tan Tan but with faster shipping options. They said the frame was "in stock ready to ship". Turns out it's not in stock and production will take at least 10 days, but it's no big deal, I need time to think up a paint job anyway.
Will be transferring the TRP/Eagle AXS groupset from my other bike for now but looking at GRX mechanical, Ekar, or a Force 1 groupset I have sitting in a box for the long term. With the Force group, I'd have to get the Ratio 12 speed mod and a Garbaruk cage.
I would build it with the LTwoo EGR if it allowed for a cassette larger than 46T. :(
My frame from Longteng is on the way, hoping to receive it next week. I ordered on 10/21 and received an email on 11/1 with a picture of my unpainted frame, asking me to confirm shipping information. Received tracking number on 11/5. I was kind of hoping they would take another week or two as I'm not ready to start a new build just yet, lol.
Total cost: 600USD (plus paypal fees)
Size 54 raw frame - 420
Storage bag - 8
Headset - 12
Axles - 25
Shipping - 135
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We need more pics in this thread…. Tons of pics
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Ordered a 49 from tantan in UD glossy with HB047 handlebar
They had one in stock. It's on the way.
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Has anybody found a cover that fits for the FD mount if you run 1x?
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We need more pics in this thread…. Tons of pics
As you wish : https://imgur.com/a/49rwc6w
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That's one high ass seat. You must be quite flexible to still be able to reach the drops ;D
Btw what varia mount are you using?
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Hehe yep quite flexible these days. Works like a charm and can def remove more spacers but its fine for now.
I use a 3D printed SWAT mount for specialized saddles. It integratates very nicely. https://www.magcad-designs.com/products/magcad-garmin-varia-specialized-swat-saddle-mount-20mm-offset?srsltid=AfmBOooe9SAOJdfmOVzDDxAwXo8R4UNkCjCZVji8Zdy6bw9XuJHcxVR2
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Discount code Tideacebike-2024 for Black Friday
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Am I doing something wrong? I get a puny 19,18€ discount; that's just over 2%.
Technically, it is "up to 40%" as you advertise but still feels a bit stingy.
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Received mine today :
Will weight and mount everything tonight.
The little parts (spacers, expander, headset bearings) were loose inside the package.. the bag wasn't closed correctly. But no damage.
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400mm reach with 570mm top tube in size 54, plus outdated seat tube inclination, 435mm long chai stay.
I am sorry but the design is a little Crazy. If they have put 75 deg in the back maybe they would bring the saddle closer, reduce top tube to something reasonable and paired with a short stem it could work. But this .... I don't see it
it's interesting as reach varies much less than normal between a sm and an xl size - it's almost like they tried to keep the bottom bracket and HT mostly in the same place and just let the larger seat tube dictate the top tube length. it's good for riders with long torsos across the whole range of rider heights
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Sooo,
Faced the brakes surfaces because it was bad, and routed the cable out of the bars because the holes were really sharp and destroyed the hoses.
I also had to mount a 1mm spacer because the bolts of 110 BCD Sram Force spider were touching the frame.
Rest is really impressive, I love it !
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Sooo,
Faced the brakes surfaces because it was bad, and routed the cable out of the bars because the holes were really sharp and destroyed the hoses.
I also had to mount a 1mm spacer because the bolts of 110 BCD Sram Force spider were touching the frame.
Rest is really impressive, I love it !
What size is this?
Still waiting for mine (54) and as I can see it should be quite easy to go below 8 kg
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It's 49, and yes I think it can go easily under 8kg. I could already save : cassette 200g
Seatpost 90g
Saddle 100g
Cranks 200g
Pedals 50g
Wheels 200g
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Nice! What bars did you mount?
Looking very solid and sharp. Now time to ride it!
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Nice! What bars did you mount?
Looking very solid and sharp. Now time to ride it!
HB047 36/43cm x 100mm -17°
It's the bars that tantan sell with the frame
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Am considering building up one of these but am SO in doubt about sizing as this would be my first gravel bike.
Ride MTB normally.
Height: 167cm
Inseam: 76,5cm
Any insights on whether a size 49 would fit me? As far as I have understood, the toptube would be too far?
Thanks <3
Peter
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Am considering building up one of these but am SO in doubt about sizing as this would be my first gravel bike.
Ride MTB normally.
Height: 167cm
Inseam: 76,5cm
Any insights on whether a size 49 would fit me? As far as I have understood, the toptube would be too far?
Thanks <3
Peter
I think coming from an MTB it'll actually feel more familiar than a typical compact race bike fit.
you'll need a shorter stem than what one would typically run b/c in those smaller sizes, your reach is like 30-40mm longer than a traditional road bike frame.
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I think coming from an MTB it'll actually feel more familiar than a typical compact race bike fit.
you'll need a shorter stem than what one would typically run b/c in those smaller sizes, your reach is like 30-40mm longer than a traditional road bike frame.
Okay, thanks a lot for the fast reply! So, what you are saying is basically that I could (for instance) go with a 60mm stem and then the fit would be okay'ish?
Would you be able to recommend another chinese frame with a better fit for a small guy like me? :)
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Okay, thanks a lot for the fast reply! So, what you are saying is basically that I could (for instance) go with a 60mm stem and then the fit would be okay'ish?
Would you be able to recommend another chinese frame with a better fit for a small guy like me? :)
I'm 170cm with 79cm inseam. Ride it with a 100m stem and slammed. My back is horizontal when I'm in the drops or paw position on the hoods. You might not need a so short stem (60), depending how you want to ride it.
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Does anyone recon what size seat clamp should I get for GR201? I'm doing a lil color scheme so this MUST be changed straight away ;)
inner size is 27.2 but what about outer side? Also I have found some axles (https://pl.aliexpress.com/item/1005005603728147.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2pol) and I'm sure I'm about to buy all wrong sizes possible...
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Its 31,8 mm
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Just finished my first ever build! I had some issues with a few little things but overall I am really happy with it. The rear brake needs to be adjusted and my handlebars aren't wrapped yet
Edit: I have attached a table with prices and weight if anyone is interested
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That looks great!
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My bike is also ready to Ride
https://imgur.com/a/xtagwv2
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My bike is also ready to Ride
https://imgur.com/a/xtagwv2
Really nice look!
Is this a medium size frame or a large?
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Really nice look!
Is this a medium size frame or a large?
Large size
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Just finished my first ever build! I had some issues with a few little things but overall I am really happy with it. The rear brake needs to be adjusted and my handlebars aren't wrapped yet
Edit: I have attached a table with prices and weight if anyone is interested
The price of the frame seems MUCH lower than what I am able to find and your's even has a custom paintjob.
Could you share where/how you bought this?
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It's in the list: TanTan
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Ok, I'm big Cannondale guy and today I saw how much my LBS want for low spec Topstone Carbon (10s grx and worst wheels I ever ridden)
3130 Euro w/ Tax!
This is my ,,Cheap GR201,, build (still waiting for most parts and frame):
Frame and UDH hanger 616,00 € 1377g mondince
Fork 0,00 € 438g mondince
Bottom bracket 32,00 € 105g Token T47
Crankset 95 € 570g RiRo Carbon 50/34
Front derailleur 81,00 € 138g Di2 105 2s
Rear derailleur 150 € 301g Di2 105 12s
Wheels 357 € 1610g Elite wheels ENT 38mm
Headset 0 € 103g mondince
Stem and Handlebar 73 € 340g Toseek 5500
Handlebar tape 2 € 10g bucklos
STIs 174 € 442g Di2 105 ST-R7170
Di2 battery 111 € 53g DN300 shimano
Brakes 49 € 2x 95g ZRace XG
Brake discs 11 € 2x140mm 68g aliexpress
Gear cables 26 € 2x10g 2xDi2-300 Shimano 950mm EW-SD300-I
Brake cables 0 € idk ZRace
Cassette 22 € 350g ZRace 11-34T 12s
Axles 0 € 72g mondince
Tires 0 € 920g maxxis 700x33 (had them from a friend)
Saddle 55 € 196g Bucklos fake S-works
Seat post 0€ 165g mondince
Chain 20 € 268g kmc x12
Expander 0 € idk Toseek
Tubes 6 € 74g TPU aliexpress
Brake fluid 0 € 50g Shimano (laying around)
Summary 1880 € around 7970g
Probably under 8KG and there is still few things to cut weight ;D
Viva La 11.11 Aliexpress sales
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Ok, I'm big Cannondale guy and today I saw how much my LBS want for low spec Topstone Carbon (10s grx and worst wheels I ever ridden)
3130 Euro w/ Tax!
This is my ,,Cheap GR201,, build (still waiting for most parts and frame):
Frame and UDH hanger 616,00 € 1377g mondince
Fork 0,00 € 438g mondince
Bottom bracket 32,00 € 105g Token T47
Crankset 95 € 570g RiRo Carbon 50/34
Front derailleur 81,00 € 138g Di2 105 2s
Rear derailleur 150 € 301g Di2 105 12s
Wheels 357 € 1610g Elite wheels ENT 38mm
Headset 0 € 103g mondince
Stem and Handlebar 73 € 340g Toseek 5500
Handlebar tape 2 € 10g bucklos
STIs 174 € 442g Di2 105 ST-R7170
Di2 battery 111 € 53g DN300 shimano
Brakes 49 € 2x 95g ZRace XG
Brake discs 11 € 2x140mm 68g aliexpress
Gear cables 26 € 2x10g 2xDi2-300 Shimano 950mm EW-SD300-I
Brake cables 0 € idk ZRace
Cassette 22 € 350g ZRace 11-34T 12s
Axles 0 € 72g mondince
Tires 0 € 920g maxxis 700x33 (had them from a friend)
Saddle 55 € 196g Bucklos fake S-works
Seat post 0€ 165g mondince
Chain 20 € 268g kmc x12
Expander 0 € idk Toseek
Tubes 6 € 74g TPU aliexpress
Brake fluid 0 € 50g Shimano (laying around)
Summary 1880 € around 7970g
Probably under 8KG and there is still few things to cut weight ;D
Viva La 11.11 Aliexpress sales
Nice build!!!
I didn’t knew about Mondince. I had in mind to order the frame from TANTAN but it seems you got a better deal.
I've tried to find their AliExpress store but I haven't been lucky and in their webpage it shows that the minimum order is 10 (they have another light frame below 1kg that has minimum order 50)
Are they open to just 1qty order?
Thank you!
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Ok, I'm big Cannondale guy and today I saw how much my LBS want for low spec Topstone Carbon (10s grx and worst wheels I ever ridden)
3130 Euro w/ Tax!
This is my ,,Cheap GR201,, build (still waiting for most parts and frame):
Frame and UDH hanger 616,00 € 1377g mondince
Fork 0,00 € 438g mondince
Bottom bracket 32,00 € 105g Token T47
Crankset 95 € 570g RiRo Carbon 50/34
Front derailleur 81,00 € 138g Di2 105 2s
Rear derailleur 150 € 301g Di2 105 12s
Wheels 357 € 1610g Elite wheels ENT 38mm
Headset 0 € 103g mondince
Stem and Handlebar 73 € 340g Toseek 5500
Handlebar tape 2 € 10g bucklos
STIs 174 € 442g Di2 105 ST-R7170
Di2 battery 111 € 53g DN300 shimano
Brakes 49 € 2x 95g ZRace XG
Brake discs 11 € 2x140mm 68g aliexpress
Gear cables 26 € 2x10g 2xDi2-300 Shimano 950mm EW-SD300-I
Brake cables 0 € idk ZRace
Cassette 22 € 350g ZRace 11-34T 12s
Axles 0 € 72g mondince
Tires 0 € 920g maxxis 700x33 (had them from a friend)
Saddle 55 € 196g Bucklos fake S-works
Seat post 0€ 165g mondince
Chain 20 € 268g kmc x12
Expander 0 € idk Toseek
Tubes 6 € 74g TPU aliexpress
Brake fluid 0 € 50g Shimano (laying around)
Summary 1880 € around 7970g
Probably under 8KG and there is still few things to cut weight ;D
Viva La 11.11 Aliexpress sales
Does Mondice sells frames directly to customer?
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No, they are not d2c but you can try asking them for a sample. Guess that's what Kopy did.
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I do belive this was a thing with a guy from ,,gravel championships in Belgium,, . He specyficly mentioned Alibaba not Aliexpress. Did some reserch about this frame and found out about Mondince. At first I wanted to order from Tideace but over 900 Euro for a frame with just white paint was bit too much since my goal was 2000 Euro max. Few e-mails and I knew full price with custom paint job and without one. (Here I deleted most of my reply since I realised that I have no clue if they want to sell this frame this way and just did one time thing. I do really hope they ain't gonna be mad at me for posting this :-X )
In addition this is who buys/produces frames in their factory ,,We have prodived OEM service for DUCATI, KHS, RIBBLE, ARGON18, CUBE and other bike brands all over the world. ,,
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Its getting rainy, muddy and snowy. What mudguards are you guys running on your gravel bike?
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5 | RBRL Bicycle Mudguard 28 inch Bicycle Wings Gravel Road Bike Mudguard 700c Quick Release Bike Fender for Bicycle Accessories
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EwVGEP3
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Do you have the contact info? Did you order one?
I do belive this was a thing with a guy from ,,gravel championships in Belgium,, . He specyficly mentioned Alibaba not Aliexpress. Did some reserch about this frame and found out about Mondince. At first I wanted to order from Tideace but over 900 Euro for a frame with just white paint was bit too much since my goal was 2000 Euro max. Few e-mails and I knew full price with custom paint job and without one. (Here I deleted most of my reply since I realised that I have no clue if they want to sell this frame this way and just did one time thing. I do really hope they ain't gonna be mad at me for posting this :-X )
In addition this is who buys/produces frames in their factory ,,We have prodived OEM service for DUCATI, KHS, RIBBLE, ARGON18, CUBE and other bike brands all over the world. ,,
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Hello,
While I complete the order of the frameset, I am buying the rest of components.
I am planning to mount a mullet AXS groupset: Sram red e1 shifters/calipers with Sram force d2 power meter 40 or 42t and GX T-Type derailleur.
Could somebody help me to know if I need to buy wide or non wide cranks?
Thank you in advance
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Can anyone confirm whether there is an eyelet for securing a fender near the BB/chainstays?
Nevermind, it is very clearly there in Tantan's photos.
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Just recieved my frameset and weights are as follows:
Raw with gloss finish in 54
Frame (with cage bolts and seatpost collar) - 1331
Fork with cage bolts - 442
Seatpost wirh clamp - 212
Thru axles - 70
46g worth of bottle cage bolts across the bike
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Yeah, these bolts Are heavy AF
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Hi guys
Has anyone ridden this and the LightCarbon LCG071 back to back?
Thanks:-)
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Incoming...
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Nice one. Looking forward to what will be the first proper video on this frame. As a very early adopter I really think it's a steal. After a number of months with it, my only negative is the weight and it's something that you can pretty easily get down to competitive for gravel race bike standards.
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Nice one. Looking forward to what will be the first proper video on this frame. As a very early adopter I really think it's a steal. After a number of months with it, my only negative is the weight and it's something that you can pretty easily get down to competitive for gravel race bike standards.
Question - Is the T47 inboard or outboard?
I'm still pretty undecided on a groupset. Sram eTap is much easier and cheaper to source locally. Easy to dissemble for traveling. But man I really don't like the braking performance of Sram which is kind of important for gravel. The braking modularity on Shimano's latest stuff is superb. But Di2 seems like overkill if I go 1x
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Question - Is the T47 inboard or outboard?
I'm still pretty undecided on a groupset. Sram eTap is much easier and cheaper to source locally. Easy to dissemble for traveling. But man I really don't like the braking performance of Sram which is kind of important for gravel. The braking modularity on Shimano's latest stuff is superb. But Di2 seems like overkill if I go 1x
T47 inboard. I'm using Rotor T47
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Change Rotors and Pads on SRAM- you will get the Same Performance
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I'm using a cheap AliExpress t47, but have swapped the bearings for Enduro combination sealed steel bearings. They have a non-contact seal inboard, and a contact seal outboard. I ride some pretty rough and often wet and muddy gravel and these are superb.
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For PF etc. it doesn't really matter, since you press out the bb and get a new one in fairly easy. With T47 internal, you don't want to remove the bb. It's fairly annoying since the lip is so small. Just a sit and forget bottom bracket with good bearings. That's why I got the BBInfinite Abec 7 and not ceramic. It's performing great and smooth spinning!
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Yeah once it's in, leave it in. Nothing special about the BB, just swap the bearings as you need to.
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Build complete
Went with size 56 I'm 182
Sram force shifters & brakes
Sram red xplr 13 speed derailleur and cassette
Enve AR 40cm bars
Mosso 90mm stem
Enve SES 4.5 wheels
tufo gravel thundero 48mm (tubeless 60ml sealant in each)
Ceramic speed T47 BB
Garbaruk gravel crankset
Garbaruk 38t chainring
Weight was 8.14 no cages pedals etc
Overall I'm happy with it. Rear brake mounts are on a slight angle took abit of work to not get it to rub. Really needs to be faced.
ello,
I'm about to purchase this frame.
Frame must be sprayed in Pearl white with Matte black.
I plan to purchase the frame from TANTAN.
Now I'm wondering the following: There are three bolts in the front fork.
However, I also see frames passing by without these bolts.
Can someone explain to me how this works?
See bike from @Osh as an example.
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I requested not to have them. I ordered through tideace
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Ok thanks!
Last question. Anyone knows a nice gravel handlebar.
Or is the Tideace HB/008 ok? I dont like the roundings. I want it a bit more square on the headtube.
Handlebar needs to be fully integrated.
(https://i.ibb.co/p06FBpR/Afbeelding-van-Whats-App-op-2024-11-29-om-08-26-50-aaeb3ac1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vwCn68Q)
(https://i.ibb.co/pbdGwjx/Afbeelding-van-Whats-App-op-2024-11-29-om-08-26-50-7b3d2ba0.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DzQsWft)
free jpg pictures (https://nl.imgbb.com/)
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Yes, we also have the forks without bolts hole in stock.
Feel free to contact us to order it.
Thanks
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Ok ordered the frame today.
Specs:
Tideace Noah custom paint (58)(pearl white 61 with black 63)
Wheels Reynolds ATR
HB 008 handlebar
Sram red XLPR groupset (from excisting
Fizik 3d saddle
SPECIALIZED pathfinder Pro 42mm tyres
Excited to build this bike. Soon another Tideace Noah in Holland.
I'm gonna sell my Grizl CF SLX 8 suspension frame. So if you are interested
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Ok thanks!
Last question. Anyone knows a nice gravel handlebar.
Or is the Tideace HB/008 ok? I dont like the roundings. I want it a bit more square on the headtube.
Handlebar needs to be fully integrated.
Lexon Unox.
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Lexon Unox.
Oof thats a nice one!
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Frame arrived yesterday, ordered it 6 november arrived yesterday with dpd to the Netherlands
Can’t wait to start with the build, but painting first
Everything was well packed, also tool bag was included
I ordered it in raw carbon to speed up the ordering process. Plan is to paint it so i can start the build.
last parts arrived today.
Overall finish of the frame looks good, time to put together :)
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First Ride: https://imgur.com/a/kWx7LtN
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SRAM Red XPLR 13sp is a such a baller groupset for this build.
I’m tempted to do the same, but I would legitimately have to sell one of my complete bikes LoL. Resell value of Chinese bikes is the lowest of lows.
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Not the best photo but my 54 purple cracked ice arrived today. Wheels are from Peter which look perfect. Looking forward to the build
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SRAM Red XPLR 13sp is a such a baller groupset for this build.
I’m tempted to do the same, but I would legitimately have to sell one of my complete bikes LoL. Resell value of Chinese bikes is the lowest of lows.
Sure but I Sell my bikes only in Parts. And in my experience you never get nearly the Money back for the Frame. The only exception might be specialized.
So my goal was a nice looking UDH Frame to put this groupset on.
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Really nice to ride, happy about it
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Not the best photo but my 54 purple cracked ice arrived today. Wheels are from Peter which look perfect. Looking forward to the build
What rims are those? Look stunning! 8)
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Santa is here! (bit early but not gonna complain)
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What rims are those? Look stunning! 8)
I did the smart thing and stole the specs from glossy (see his earlier post in this thread)
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I did the smart thing and stole the specs from glossy (see his earlier post in this thread)
Some would say smart, others would say reckless...
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I did the smart thing and stole the specs from glossy (see his earlier post in this thread)
How much are those wheels by Peter? Looks interesting
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;D ;D ;D
few more details and we are ready for first ride
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;D ;D ;D
few more details and we are ready for first ride
The blue accents rock.
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;D ;D ;D
few more details and we are ready for first ride
It looks spectacular.
What metrics and what amount of bolts are needed to replace the ones that come with the frame?
I have just ordered my frame :)
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They are all standard M5 bolts. If you're not going to mount things, I recommend rubber M5 bungs for the cleanest look and least weight.
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I took Nylon Screws from Ali
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hi, someone tried to fit some big 650b tyres?
the idea is to use some 2.2"/2.25" mtb tyres if possible
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totally recommend BUCKLOS 4$ Gravel bar tape and totally wouldn't recommend ZRace brake hoses
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One question to buyers who don't use the Tideace handlebar:
Do you have any issues adjusting the headset play? Me and another buyer have the issue that the Tideace handlebar sits so tight on the fork with the reduction sleeve that you cannot adjust the headset play. You only loosen the expander after some time ...
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No problems with my Lexon Unox.
On my road bike I use an EXS aerover with a sleeve. It is also very tight, and makes it difficult to adust the preload. They key is too get it as tight as possible by hand before tightening the top cap.
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I did that but I still have horizontal play in the headset. You can move the fork from front to back and I also "screw" the expander out of the fork while tightening the top cap. I send a video to Tideace and ordered a different sleeve from Ritchey. You can see it here how tight the handlebar sits on the fork: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/B0P6u2X49Pw
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Yeah that's definitely a problem! Can recommend the Unox bars.
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Yeah thats on my list if the Ritchey sleeve do not work and Tideace has no other solution.
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Yeah same, good price. Or a used black inc bar. Can someone tell me how wide the bars are on the middle where you can hold the bars?
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No issues here, but I'm using a Redshift stem and typical aluminum bar.
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Question - Is the T47 inboard or outboard?
I'm still pretty undecided on a groupset. Sram eTap is much easier and cheaper to source locally. Easy to dissemble for traveling. But man I really don't like the braking performance of Sram which is kind of important for gravel. The braking modularity on Shimano's latest stuff is superb. But Di2 seems like overkill if I go 1x
Get MANA disc rotors from AliExpress. I am using then with SRAM rival and they are great. Plus look cool https://a.aliexpress.com/_EQWbUYU
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Pulled the trigger today.
Here is my built list. Very exciting. First china frame and first bike with electric SRAM
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totally recommend BUCKLOS 4$ Gravel bar tape and totally wouldn't recommend ZRace brake hoses
Is that the Chameleon White? If yes, how is the color IRL - is it chameleon or mostly “just” white?
Br.
Andreas
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Frame is out for delivery :)
(https://i.ibb.co/1v0rWqQ/IMG-20241214-WA0000.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gjrSKT9)
Ok ordered the frame today.
Specs:
Tideace Noah custom paint (58)(pearl white 61 with black 63)
Wheels Reynolds ATR
HB 008 handlebar
Sram red XLPR groupset (from excisting
Fizik 3d saddle
SPECIALIZED pathfinder Pro 42mm tyres
Excited to build this bike. Soon another Tideace Noah in Holland.
I'm gonna sell my Grizl CF SLX 8 suspension frame. So if you are interested
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For the Tideace bar: Apart from the too narrow sleeve the compression ring is also trash. After tightening the ahead cap the fork could still move about 0,5 mm from front to back. I changed the ring against the one that is coming with the frames headset cap and also compresses the fork in the front. Everything is fine now with the side effect that the gap to the frame increases and no more shims are needed. Just for everyone who also has issues with the handlebar and headset play.
https://imgur.com/a/NrU9KcR
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I'm working on my first bike build using this frame (ordered from Tantan) and I'm looking to avoid a fully integrated cockpit - I've already got a bar and stem I like. If there's anybody here who is familiar with the headset that arrives from Tantan/Seraph and could give me more info about my routing options I'd really appreciate it. I don't see that there's any ports on the downtube so I'm hoping I can do that through the headset without the accompanying bar and stem. Failing that I'll need to find a compatible headset that can route brake hose (I'm going AXS) so if you have suggestions there please let me know - thanks!
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Almost finished my GR201, just need to confirm my fit before I get everything set.
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I'm working on my first bike build using this frame (ordered from Tantan) and I'm looking to avoid a fully integrated cockpit - I've already got a bar and stem I like. If there's anybody here who is familiar with the headset that arrives from Tantan/Seraph and could give me more info about my routing options I'd really appreciate it. I don't see that there's any ports on the downtube so I'm hoping I can do that through the headset without the accompanying bar and stem. Failing that I'll need to find a compatible headset that can route brake hose (I'm going AXS) so if you have suggestions there please let me know - thanks!
Which stem do you want to use?
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Hi everyone!
Joining the club.
Frame size: 58, weight: 8.6 kg without power meter and pedals, 9 kg with power meter and pedals.
Components:
• Wheels: DT ER1400 Dicut
• Tires: Panaracer Gravelking SS R 40 mm
• Groupset: Mechanical SRAM Rival/Force with Garbaruk cassette, chainring and cage/pulleys
• Brakes: TRP Spyre
• Seatpost: Ritchey WCS Carbon Link Flexlogic
• Handlebar: Ritchey WCS Carbon VentureMax
• Saddle: Lunje Carbon (looking for a replacement for my beloved but heavy Brooks)
• Stem: No-name (testing fit for now). An 80 mm was too long for me (my height is 186.5 cm); I’ll switch to a 70 mm Thomson.
By the next season, I plan to upgrade to an electric SRAM Rival and GX T-Type mullet setup and build a beefy carbon wheelset. I noticed Peter being mentioned here, so I’ll check that out.
Pros:
• The paintwork and carbon finish are excellent (except for the seatpost, which looks so-so).
• Storage box is cool.
• The headset is decent.
• Packaging was great; everything arrived perfectly.
• Eddie is loyal and responsive.
Minor cons:
• I don't like the seatpost clamp outwardly.
• Axles are heavy.
• Bolts are heavy.
• The front derailleur mount was installed before the lacquer dried, leaving unsightly marks underneath.
• Assembly recommendations would be helpful: what plugs go where, which holes are for which cables, etc.
Major cons:
• The rear axle is too long.
I still don’t understand why; there are no similar reports on the forums, but my 171 mm axle doesn’t clamp the wheel—it leaves a 2 mm play.
Thanks to Eddie for quickly sending me a shorter axle with no questions asked, but the root cause remains unclear. For now, I’ve temporarily solved the issue by using a washer from another UDH hanger on the brake side, which allows the wheel to clamp properly. However, the contact point is now against the painted part of the frame, which isn’t ideal.
I transitioned from a steel Seaboard CX07, and my first impressions are as follows:
The bike is very responsive, easy to drive, but stable at the back. It is quite hard when pedaling, while riding comfortably off-road.
P.S. Magene P505 Spider fits good, there is a lot of space up to the frame
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Which stem do you want to use?
For the sake of putting it all out there, I’ll be running a Fox 32 TC suspension fork and I’d like to end up using my PNW Coast bar and something like a Cane Creek GXC stem but I was going to fit a few old stems of different sizes first to figure a length out first.
I wish the frame had traditional ports on the down tube but since it doesn’t I’m assuming I’ll need to go in via the headset.
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For the sake of putting it all out there, I’ll be running a Fox 32 TC suspension fork and I’d like to end up using my PNW Coast bar and something like a Cane Creek GXC stem but I was going to fit a few old stems of different sizes first to figure a length out first.
I wish the frame had traditional ports on the down tube but since it doesn’t I’m assuming I’ll need to go in via the headset.
If the Tantan frame comes also with the same headset like the Tideace, you can see the cable routing on Lupus build. It goes below the stem into the frame.
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If the Tantan frame comes also with the same headset like the Tideace, you can see the cable routing on Lupus build. It goes below the stem into the frame.
Yep that’s my ideal solution, if I had realized it ahead of time I probably would’ve just ordered from them instead but I took it for granted that the frame would have traditional ports. I’m trying to get more info on the headset mine will ship with but the pictures look different than the Tideace headset.
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Yep that’s my ideal solution, if I had realized it ahead of time I probably would’ve just ordered from them instead but I took it for granted that the frame would have traditional ports. I’m trying to get more info on the headset mine will ship with but the pictures look different than the Tideace headset.
I've got the tan tan frame, the upper headset bearing is a 40×52x7 45/45. The cables are routed through the middle of the bearing. I'm using a deda superbox stem and topcap and the DCR compression ring ( you have to shave it down a few mm on top) to make it fully I eternal but the bike also comes with a headset cap with holes if you don't want to going through the stem.
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Other solution if you want to through the stem is FSA FSA because it matches the bearing height of 7 mm.
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Hi everyone!
Joining the club.
Frame size: 58, weight: 8.6 kg without power meter and pedals, 9 kg with power meter and pedals.
Components:
• Wheels: DT ER1400 Dicut
• Tires: Panaracer Gravelking SS R 40 mm
• Groupset: Mechanical SRAM Rival/Force with Garbaruk cassette, chainring and cage/pulleys
• Brakes: TRP Spyre
• Seatpost: Ritchey WCS Carbon Link Flexlogic
• Handlebar: Ritchey WCS Carbon VentureMax
• Saddle: Lunje Carbon (looking for a replacement for my beloved but heavy Brooks)
• Stem: No-name (testing fit for now). An 80 mm was too long for me (my height is 186.5 cm); I’ll switch to a 70 mm Thomson.
By the next season, I plan to upgrade to an electric SRAM Rival and GX T-Type mullet setup and build a beefy carbon wheelset. I noticed Peter being mentioned here, so I’ll check that out.
Pros:
• The paintwork and carbon finish are excellent (except for the seatpost, which looks so-so).
• Storage box is cool.
• The headset is decent.
• Packaging was great; everything arrived perfectly.
• Eddie is loyal and responsive.
Minor cons:
• I don't like the seatpost clamp outwardly.
• Axles are heavy.
• Bolts are heavy.
• The front derailleur mount was installed before the lacquer dried, leaving unsightly marks underneath.
• Assembly recommendations would be helpful: what plugs go where, which holes are for which cables, etc.
Major cons:
• The rear axle is too long.
I still don’t understand why; there are no similar reports on the forums, but my 171 mm axle doesn’t clamp the wheel—it leaves a 2 mm play.
Thanks to Eddie for quickly sending me a shorter axle with no questions asked, but the root cause remains unclear. For now, I’ve temporarily solved the issue by using a washer from another UDH hanger on the brake side, which allows the wheel to clamp properly. However, the contact point is now against the painted part of the frame, which isn’t ideal.
I transitioned from a steel Seaboard CX07, and my first impressions are as follows:
The bike is very responsive, easy to drive, but stable at the back. It is quite hard when pedaling, while riding comfortably off-road.
P.S. Magene P505 Spider fits good, there is a lot of space up to the frame
Really nice build!
This is an example of a simple, yet beautiful frame/bike
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Build in progress
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Incoming...
Looking very much forward to the final build...
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After 16 days of floating out at sea, my frame has finally hit American shores. Hopefully it will get here by xmas.
I ordered integrated bars but will probably use a separate bar/stem combo with the FSA no.69 headset system.
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I'm working on my first bike build using this frame (ordered from Tantan) and I'm looking to avoid a fully integrated cockpit - I've already got a bar and stem I like. If there's anybody here who is familiar with the headset that arrives from Tantan/Seraph and could give me more info about my routing options I'd really appreciate it. I don't see that there's any ports on the downtube so I'm hoping I can do that through the headset without the accompanying bar and stem. Failing that I'll need to find a compatible headset that can route brake hose (I'm going AXS) so if you have suggestions there please let me know - thanks!
Update here: after emailing tantan to explain what I needed they have the appropriate headset for semi-integrated routing and are sending it to me.
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Using Tufo thunderos 48 on a 28ID rim there seems plenty of space measuring 49.6mm , I'm going to be giving it a go with at least 2.1 at some point.
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Using Tufo thunderos 48 on a 28ID rim there seems plenty of space measuring 49.6mm , I'm going to be giving it a go with at least 2.1 at some point.
Also running these tyres, sure the front is fine but I think you're close to the limit on the rear.
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question: is the frame GR201 you can find on tan tan the same as the one from tideace GV201?
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question: is the frame GR201 you can find on tan tan the same as the one from tideace GV201?
Yes
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Any folks running this frame with a 2x setup? And if so, what chainring size?
Dylan Johnson uses a Shimano 2x for his Felt gravel bike with MTB tires. Quarq/DUB spider power meter. I can't tell if the chain rings are Shimano road or GRX.
On my current Yoeleo G21 gravel build I'm running a Shimano road 2x 50/34 chainrings with shims. 42c tire clears the front derailleur.
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Built finished and ready to rumble :)
Did a small test ride and first impression is GREAT !!!, feels verry solid and stiff but too short to get a real good judgement but is promising ;D
(https://i.postimg.cc/5yDRgTNJ/IMG-5397-1.avif)
(https://i.postimg.cc/gcMG9H0b/IMG-5391-3.avif)
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Also running these tyres, sure the front is fine but I think you're close to the limit on the rear.
Yeah I did see that, will still give it a go. I've been keeping an eye out for a cheap 2.1 on ebay etc.
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Built finished and ready to rumble :)
Did a small test ride and first impression is GREAT !!!, feels verry solid and stiff but too short to get a real good judgement but is promising ;D
(https://i.postimg.cc/5yDRgTNJ/IMG-5397-1.avif)
(https://i.postimg.cc/gcMG9H0b/IMG-5391-3.avif)
Holy crap. You have me hyped for my build.
Details on those wheels and tires please.
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Any folks running this frame with a 2x setup? And if so, what chainring size?
Dylan Johnson uses a Shimano 2x for his Felt gravel bike with MTB tires. Quarq/DUB spider power meter. I can't tell if the chain rings are Shimano road or GRX.
On my current Yoeleo G21 gravel build I'm running a Shimano road 2x 50/34 chainrings with shims. 42c tire clears the front derailleur.
I've done 105/Ultegra Di2 2x12s 50/34 front 11-34 rear
Should be fine with powermeter but I picked RiRo carbon cranks without one to make it sub 8kg
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Holy crap. You have me hyped for my build.
Details on those wheels and tires please.
[/quote]
Thank you and hell yeah finish your bike, you won't regret it ;D
The wheels are from lightbicycle https://www.lightbicycle.com/700C-road-bicycle-rims-28mm-wide-55mm-deep-symmetric-clincher-road-disc-brake-available.html (https://www.lightbicycle.com/700C-road-bicycle-rims-28mm-wide-55mm-deep-symmetric-clincher-road-disc-brake-available.html)
With Hope hubs.
Very nice wheels to ride
Tires are Panaracer Gravelkings SK+R45 mm. https://www.panaracer.eu/products/gravelking-sk-r-line-tlr-gravel-tyre (https://www.panaracer.eu/products/gravelking-sk-r-line-tlr-gravel-tyre)
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First Ride today.
Today it was shitty weather, rain, stormy wind but i want to ride my new GR201 and yeah despite of the weather it was Great !!! I did 54k on it.
My impressions:
- Bike fits me realy well, I have size 54 and 110/38 handlebar and i'm 1.83m. I was doubting about the size 54 or 56 but i'm gladd to make the choice for the 54. It feels like my road bike S-works SL8 size 56 so thats fine.
- Bike feels solid and not a single rattle or creak was heard. Frame feels stiff
- I haven't weighed the frame yet, but it feels oke, I expected it to be much worse. I don't have a measuring device to weigh it so ...
- The handlebar from Tantan HB047 size 380x110 feels good, nice flat section for the hoods where you rest the palm of your hands. Also stiff no much flex.
I do not understand why they have a insert to clamp it.... It fits but was a bit of a hassle to get it right. Also sharp edges on the inside for the cable routing when you pull the cable through, but certenly for the price a good bar. I have no play in the headset but did not checked it after my ride. I did changed the top bearing for a 7mm , I found the space between the top cab and frame too large
- I ordered the frame from Tantan because it compared to the other providers but for me the best deal and they had a raw carbone in stock which was important for me to have it as quickly as possible, the order was problem free at Tantan. Lisa was easily accessible. emails were answered quickly due to the time difference.
Delivery was complete, spacers, bearings and tool bag
Overall I am very satisfied with the bike and built. It is my 3rd open mold frame and I can say that the quality of this frame is the best so far. The build was relatively problem-free, except for a few minor issues. I compared many frames with each other, but I always ended up with the GR201 because it is the most complete frame for now (In the open mold frames)The post from Gloscherrybomb was also an eye opener for me and a reason for me to order the frame and i don't regret it so far
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- Bike fits me realy well, I have size 54 and 110/38 handlebar and i'm 1.83m. I was doubting about the size 54 or 56 but i'm gladd to make the choice for the 54. It feels like my road bike S-works SL8 size 56 so thats fine.
Nice. I'm 183cm tall as well, and ordered a size 54 with 110 stem handlebars. This makes me feel good about sizing LoL
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Holy crap. You have me hyped for my build.
Details on those wheels and tires please.
Thank you and hell yeah finish your bike, you won't regret it ;D
The wheels are from lightbicycle https://www.lightbicycle.com/700C-road-bicycle-rims-28mm-wide-55mm-deep-symmetric-clincher-road-disc-brake-available.html (https://www.lightbicycle.com/700C-road-bicycle-rims-28mm-wide-55mm-deep-symmetric-clincher-road-disc-brake-available.html)
With Hope hubs.
Very nice wheels to ride
Tires are Panaracer Gravelkings SK+R45 mm. https://www.panaracer.eu/products/gravelking-sk-r-line-tlr-gravel-tyre (https://www.panaracer.eu/products/gravelking-sk-r-line-tlr-gravel-tyre)
I have the same wheels, hand built but theyre solid. Work great on my noah. Just wish they were wider.
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- Bike fits me realy well, I have size 54 and 110/38 handlebar and i'm 1.83m. I was doubting about the size 54 or 56 but i'm gladd to make the choice for the 54. It feels like my road bike S-works SL8 size 56 so thats fine.
Funny, I'm exactly thinking about the same issue, 52/54 or 56, I have compared to the SL8 geometry. And I'm still unsure about wheter the GR201 is to aggressive in 54 or smaller, 56 maybe is to slack in seat tube
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Frame is almost arriving so I can build it the next weeks.
Normally i use 160 Sram brake rotors. Do i need a adapter with this frame?
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Yes, the one that come with the brakes
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Yes, the one that come with the brakes
This one right?
https://www.bol.com/nl/nl/p/remdeel-sram-achter-adapter-flat-mount-160mm-20f-zwart/9200000074988493/
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You can look it up in here
https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/frame-fit-specifications/aftermarket/disc-brake-caliper-mounting-specifications-for-road-and-mtb.pdf
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Received my frame from Longteng in early November. Size 54 completely raw frame, everything looks quite nice. Only small issue was I paid for a headset expecting to receive some kind of full headset with top cover and compression ring, but all they sent was bearings and an unneeded crown race. I purchased this very nice Neco headset from AliExpress and it's a perfect fit. It creates a very good seal and should stop dirt and water from ingress while still using a conventional stem and bar.
Still undecided on this one, I may not build it after all. I'm growing very attached to my steel gravel rig, tire clearance issues and all. <3
I'm thinking of painting this frame and then selling it on to someone else, we'll see. Playing with some paint schemes and I'm liking this grainy, granite kinda texture for a gravel bike..what do y'all think?
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Almost have the whole build under control now, am however super confused about which crankset to use.
Will run a SRAM X01 Transmission derailleur which needs a 55mm chainline.
Was initially planning to use a SRAM Apex DUB Wide crankset, but can see that that states a chainline of only 47,5mm.
Can some of you gurus explain to me which crankset I should use? <3
Here is my frame by the way (from Tideace) :)
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You should be fine with the wide crankset. There are numerous of mullet builds with road cranksets.
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You should be fine with the wide crankset. There are numerous of mullet builds with road cranksets.
Even with the 55mm chainline of SRAM Transmission? Do I need to space out the chainring or similar?
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Sure. You can try a different chainring to optimize the chainline with a different offset.
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Realized I forgot to post my build for the winter months here in denmark.
I bought the TanTan version and the quality seems very good.
Build it up from parts from a crashed bike and what good offers I could find.
And yes you can fit a 48t chainring with sram DUB Wide. At least on a size 58.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/9EwZJ5n7STsFzVYeA
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Finally finished my Tantan build
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What bar and stem are you running ?
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Realized I forgot to post my build for the winter months here in denmark.
I bought the TanTan version and the quality seems very good.
Build it up from parts from a crashed bike and what good offers I could find.
And yes you can fit a 48t chainring with sram DUB Wide. At least on a size 58.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/9EwZJ5n7STsFzVYeA
Nice build but I doubt the 48t will last under muddy conditions w/o rubbing the chainstay. I think 46t is maximum under all conditions.
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Nice build but I doubt the 48t will last under muddy conditions w/o rubbing the chainstay. I think 46t is maximum under all conditions.
Yeah I agree. I also bought an Xcadey power meter and a 46t chainring to mount.
I just wanna tear down the aero power meter before throwing it out and i just ride tarmac here in the winter months. Gets so muddy and dirty at this time
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What bar and stem are you running ?
Deda superbox stem then a some BALUGOE 37cm bars from aliexpress
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Finally finished my Tantan build
Nice bike, looks like mine ;)
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Finally...we are live on the channel. After a month in transit. I am freakin' PUMPED.
Size 54 came in at 1338g with both hangers and all 14 mounting bolts. 3g each
110mm cockpit. I'm 6 feet tall / 183cm and ride a 56 Tarmac SL8 with a 140mm cockpit. Yikes.
YouTube Title Search: TanTan GR201 Gravel - Big Brands Should Be VERY Afraid
https://youtu.be/HFqopxYkIPA?si=BHr-YXTRdPDReLcV
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Did anyone try this frame with Schwalbe Thunder Burts (or any other 2.1 tire)?
I'm starting to pick all the parts while I'm waiting for the frame to ship but I'm still undecided on the tires. I need two pairs:
- Fast tires in the 35-40mm range for road: guess it'll be either the Hutchinson Caracal Race 40mm or the Schwalbe Pro One in 38mm
- 50mm+ gravel tire: either the Thunder Burt if it fits, or one between the Continental Terra hard pack or the new Schwalbe G One tire
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Finally finished my Tantan build
I really like your build. What seatpost is that?
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Finally...we are live on the channel. After a month in transit. I am freakin' PUMPED.
Size 54 came in at 1338g with both hangers and all 14 mounting bolts. 3g each
110mm cockpit. I'm 6 feet tall / 183cm and ride a 56 Tarmac SL8 with a 140mm cockpit. Yikes.
YouTube Title Search: TanTan GR201 Gravel - Big Brands Should Be VERY Afraid
https://youtu.be/HFqopxYkIPA?si=BHr-YXTRdPDReLcV
Love that champagne gold color.
I am 189cm with 90,5cm inseam and decided to go with the 58. Since I see a couple of you guys with only a few centimeters less going with 54 I am starting to question my decision.
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Love that champagne gold color.
I am 189cm with 90,5cm inseam and decided to go with the 58. Since I see a couple of you guys with only a few centimeters less going with 54 I am starting to question my decision.
Your inseam is way longer than the guys who are 'sizing down'. Unless you're extremely flexible, 58 is likely right for you.
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I really like your build. What seatpost is that?
Just the standard seatpost that came with the frame
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Pardon the mess. I'm currently still building my GR201, while simultaneously stripping down old bike to be sold off. The build is almost finished. Just have bleed the brakes and mount my gravel wheels/tires.
For anyone thinking about getting this frame, please be extremely cautious with your sizing consideration. I mounted road wheels to the frame to offer a visual comparison against my road bikes.
Left: GR201 (172.5 cranks, size 54, 110mm stem)
Middle: Polygon Helios (172.5 cranks, size 56, front end set up more for endurance, 140mm stem)
Right: Tarmac SL8 (170 cranks, size 56, 140mm stem, raised saddle and handlebars to compensate shorter cranks.)
As you can see even with 15mm of spacers the GR201 is only barely even at the front end. The shallower drops will compensate. Also too the bottom bracket drop on this frame is much deeper/than a standard road bike by at least 10mm. Is in reality the saddle to bar drop isn't as extreme.
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The geometry follows the current crop of longer reach / shorter stems geometry gravel bikes. The main difference with the Tideace compared to others is that is has a very low stack.
Comparing the numbers in the 52 to the current Canyon Grail in size S (essentially the intended size for a ~175cm rider), the numbers are very similar except for a 40mm(!) smaller stack on the Tideace, coming from the short head tube. The Canyon is designed around the use of a 70mm stem (around 100mm is normal for that size) and I suspect that the Tideace is similar in that respect.
I expect the best starting point would be - exactly as you've gone for Pat - 30mm shorter than what you typically use on the road. That's worked for me too.
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Quick Question:
I was playing around with setting up a 2x drivetrain using a SRAM Force road front derailleur. 48/35 chainring.
However, the derailleur hanger on the GR201 frame is too far inboard to attach the derailleur mounting bolt.
Is this by design? I know technically 46t is the max, but a smaller chainring still wouldn't solve this. Would I need some sort of derailleur hanger outboard extender?
Sram's DUB spindle and T47i road setup requires a 3mm spacer on the drive side per their user guide. I wonder if that's where the issue lies. Of course if I removed the spacer the 48t outer chainring would probably scrape the chain stay LoL
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Quick Question:
I was playing around with setting up a 2x drivetrain using a SRAM Force road front derailleur. 48/35 chainring.
However, the derailleur hanger on the GR201 frame is too far inboard to attach the derailleur mounting bolt.
Is this by design? I know technically 46t is the max, but a smaller chainring still wouldn't solve this. Would I need some sort of derailleur hanger outboard extender?
Sram's DUB spindle and T47i road setup requires a 3mm spacer on the drive side per their user guide. I wonder if that's where the issue lies. Of course if I removed the spacer the 48t outer chainring would probably scrape the chain stay LoL
That's interesting as Eddy said, it wouldn't be an issue with Ultegra 50/34 Chainrings.. Sad to hear it won't work with Chainrings >46
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I am 178 cms you think 54 is too big? It looks like I’m on the border
Pardon the mess. I'm currently still building my GR201, while simultaneously stripping down old bike to be sold off. The build is almost finished. Just have bleed the brakes and mount my gravel wheels/tires.
For anyone thinking about getting this frame, please be extremely cautious with your sizing consideration. I mounted road wheels to the frame to offer a visual comparison against my road bikes.
Left: GR201 (172.5 cranks, size 54, 110mm stem)
Middle: Polygon Helios (172.5 cranks, size 56, front end set up more for endurance, 140mm stem)
Right: Tarmac SL8 (170 cranks, size 56, 140mm stem, raised saddle and handlebars to compensate shorter cranks.)
As you can see even with 15mm of spacers the GR201 is only barely even at the front end. The shallower drops will compensate. Also too the bottom bracket drop on this frame is much deeper/than a standard road bike by at least 10mm. Is in reality the saddle to bar drop isn't as extreme.
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Quick Question:
I was playing around with setting up a 2x drivetrain using a SRAM Force road front derailleur. 48/35 chainring.
However, the derailleur hanger on the GR201 frame is too far inboard to attach the derailleur mounting bolt.
Is this by design? I know technically 46t is the max, but a smaller chainring still wouldn't solve this. Would I need some sort of derailleur hanger outboard extender?
Sram's DUB spindle and T47i road setup requires a 3mm spacer on the drive side per their user guide. I wonder if that's where the issue lies. Of course if I removed the spacer the 48t outer chainring would probably scrape the chain stay LoL
Hey there!
There is a specific front wide derailleur. Make sure that yours is wide and not “normal”.
I assume that you are using wide cranks. Rose from TanTan told me that at least for 1x the way to go is wide.
I attach here the specs for the dub spacers in case it is useful for any of you guys.
Looking forward to see your build finished Pat!
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My build is pretty much complete for now. Sram eTap makes building up bikes quick work. Currently running a Sram Force road set until I bite the bullet and upgrade to Eagle GX T-Type, chain, and cassette. Photos to come.
A few of things to note:
1. The included headset/handlebar spacers make zero sense. Since you have to route the hydro cables through the specific front holes on spacers, you can't exactly remove them should you decide later to make changes to your handlebar height. You could of course take a Dremel to make a split cut to accommodate the cables. But these type of considerations are standard from more premium brands. Correct me if I'm doing something wrong...
2. TanTan not providing any sort of manual or torque settings is annoying. This used to not bother me since most torque specs are consistent. Seatpost 5-6Nm, Stem bolts 5-6Nm, Derailleurs bolts etc. But again, little stuff like this goes a long way. No torque instructions for the 6mm expander plug bolt. The plug slips upward at 8Nm when pre-loading the top cap bolt. Will probably switch to a Neco long expander plug. No torque settings on the seat post clamp or saddle rail clamps.
3. Both the bottom bracket and caliper mount facings are excellent on my frame. My T47 BB installed flawlessly. And I was able to align both calipers just as quickly as any western brand. 10 minutes tops. Wish I could say the same for both my previous Tan Tan road frames. There was always slight disc rubbing somewhere.
@Angelinho - I actually found a set of wide cranks in my parts bin. Once my 44t chainring arrives next week I'll make the switch. Thanks for the tip!
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Can someone explain to me what the difference is between tantan and Tideace?
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Can someone explain to me what the difference is between tantan and Tideace?
I think Tantan is the manufacturer, Tideace is a reseller but i'm not sure
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@ patliean1
The expander is trash as well as the top cap with bolt. I replaced both parts before the build. The same for the bearings.
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I think Tantan is the manufacturer, Tideace is a reseller but i'm not sure
I think you are right. Longteng (LTK) seems that is another reseller.
In the Instagram posts from TanTan they include in the description that they accept OEM and ODM.
I do have for example a Megamo Track frame that is made by TanTan and is also used if I am not wrong by Ridley.
I wouldn't be surprised if any brand that uses open mould frames includes this frame in their catalog.
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I asked a custom paint from Tantan but they messed up so badly it's almost funny I gotta say...
This is exactly what I asked, down to the specific Pantone colour ID (with the only difference being I requested no Seraph branding):
(http://sc04.alicdn.com/kf/H91a53acc69ed4d2ca25eddefbba0915dB/228010032/H91a53acc69ed4d2ca25eddefbba0915dB.jpg)
This is the preview pic they sent me for my frame:
(https://i.imghippo.com/files/ujgG1532qIM.jpg)
I already wrote to back to ask to get it fixed (wrong colors/too light, fading mid-frame that I didn't even ask for, and "ripple effect" not really well applied).
Let's see if they can make up for it...
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I asked a custom paint from Tantan but they messed up so badly it's almost funny I gotta say...
I already wrote to back to ask to get it fixed (wrong colors/too light, fading mid-frame that I didn't even ask for, and "ripple effect" not really well applied).
Let's see if they can make up for it...
How'd they mess up their OWN paint scheme? It's not like you asked them to copy something else! ::) ;D
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Painting in the making
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One of the biggest flaws in Asian sellers comes with paint finishing.
Even that I chose a simple white chameleon matte paint, my frame comes in glossy finish. They have offered a 15$ computer mount but I don't think that's the way to solve it.
However the frame looks quite nice IMO.
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Looks like Tantan is not so reliable when it comes to paint jobs?! Hope my Tideace will look like expected. Should be finished tmrw according to Eddy.
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I asked a custom paint from Tantan but they messed up so badly it's almost funny I gotta say...
That looks bad... I have one at tantan with custom paint being made, hope it looks better than that. Definitely happy I didn't do any "special" effect, however the matte finish I hope they can at least sort out.
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I asked a custom paint from Tantan but they messed up so badly it's almost funny I gotta say...
As an update for this situation: first I received a proposal for a $50 discount if I accepted the frame with the terrible paint job, which is hilarious considering I paid 8x more for the specific custom paint, so I refused.
So the conclusion: since I still want the paint I requested and the Chinese holidays are coming soon, they will restart production again, but now the frame won't get shipped until half of March.
Keep in mind I paid at the end of November...
Also apparently they now do not paint the plastic lid/cover anymore, since they can't guarantee it will close correctly.
Kinda weird to be honest, but I accepted to get the lid in black now (initially I asked and got an OK for a painted lid).
I didn't want to overcomplicate things, since they're already struggling with basic requests.
I'm kinda mad cause I had all the parts coming in now and was ready to build it up for the first race at the very beginning of March, but now I'll have to wait almost 3 months just to start building it....
At this point I just hope they finally understood what I actually requested.
For the other people that have already asked Tantan for a paint: you need to talk to them like you would with toddlers or a bot like chatGPT.
Basically you have to make sure they get all the instructions point by point, because if there's anything you've left for granted, there's a chance they might fuck it up unfortunately.
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Basically you have to make sure they get all the instructions point by point, because if there's anything you've left for granted, there's a chance they might fuck it up unfortunately.
Which is absolutely wild considering it was their OWN paint job design.
I'll try and remind myself to mention the potential horrors of TanTan's custom paint in my upcoming video. My build is actually finished...
...BUT literally earlier today I stumbled on a deal for the latest SRAM Red 13 Speed XPLR set. So I now gotta wait for that to arrive in a couple weeks, freakin disassemble my currently Force D1 groupset, and get that Red installed.
Thankfully it's winter here so there really isn't a huge rush.
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Thanks for the supporting of Tideace Manufacturer.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BgEUEFSnzXM
Welcome to visit our factory.
Happy New Year Everyone in this forum.
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As an update for this situation: first I received a proposal for a $50 discount if I accepted the frame with the terrible paint job, which is hilarious considering I paid 8x more for the specific custom paint, so I refused.
So the conclusion: since I still want the paint I requested and the Chinese holidays are coming soon, they will restart production again, but now the frame won't get shipped until half of March.
Keep in mind I paid at the end of November...
Also apparently they now do not paint the plastic lid/cover anymore, since they can't guarantee it will close correctly.
Kinda weird to be honest, but I accepted to get the lid in black now (initially I asked and got an OK for a painted lid).
I didn't want to overcomplicate things, since they're already struggling with basic requests.
I'm kinda mad cause I had all the parts coming in now and was ready to build it up for the first race at the very beginning of March, but now I'll have to wait almost 3 months just to start building it....
At this point I just hope they finally understood what I actually requested.
For the other people that have already asked Tantan for a paint: you need to talk to them like you would with toddlers or a bot like chatGPT.
Basically you have to make sure they get all the instructions point by point, because if there's anything you've left for granted, there's a chance they might fuck it up unfortunately.
Ah that sucks big time.
Tbh, I would ask for a raw carbon frame and do the paint at a local paintshop.
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You can run eTap road 2x with 40c (41.5mm measured at the rim). For sure on dry roads. Can probably fit 42-44 on Shimano 2x. I really don't need anything wider than 38/40s within a 4 hour drive. The gravel around here is packed and tamed.
This is my temporary setup for now...
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This is my temporary setup for now...
Nice. I'm kinda confused why you went for this frame though with such a roadie setup, as the tyre width, UDH and geo are the standout features. If you are only going 40mm and 2x the range of available frames to suit becomes very big indeed. Is it to future proof for more technical gravel?
Great job on the Nero show btw.
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Nice. I'm kinda confused why you went for this frame though with such a roadie setup, as the tyre width, UDH and geo are the standout features. If you are only going 40mm and 2x the range of available frames to suit becomes very big indeed. Is it to future proof for more technical gravel?
Great job on the Nero show btw.
Thanks!
What happened was when I was almost finished with the build, I just so happened to strike a deal for the new Red XPLR.
1. Waiting for the Sram Red 1x13 XPLR groupset that I ordered to arrive. Hopefully in a couple of weeks.
2. Once installed, I'll be running either a set of Pathfinder Pro 47 or Conti Terra Speed 45 paired w/ 58mm deep FarSport wheels.
3. In the meantime I still would like to be able to test ride the bike and dial in my fit. 2x and 40mm tires are just stuff I had lying around.
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@patliean1
Can you elaborate further on your body measurements (inseam and height) in conjunction with and sizing of the frame, saddle height and cockpit setup.
I'm hesitant on either a 54 or 56 on this frame, and usually ride a ~56 on road/gravel with a saddle height of ~77-78cm
Care to share your thoughts?
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@patliean1
Can you elaborate further on your body measurements (inseam and height) in conjunction with and sizing of the frame, saddle height and cockpit setup.
I'm hesitant on either a 54 or 56 on this frame, and usually ride a ~56 on road/gravel with a saddle height of ~77-78cm
Care to share your thoughts?
Maybe I can help, I'm having the same decision in terms of frame size.
I'm sitting at 75 cm height. I tend to take the 54 frame, because of its steeper seat angle and slacker steering angle, therefore being a bit more stable in terms of steering. But I will need around 3cm of spacers to get in my favorable position in terms of bar height. This would be way easier with the 56.
I don't think there is a right or a wrong option for you, if you want to go more in a road racing position even the 52 frame could be an option (has the same reach as the SL8 in 56)
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You can run eTap road 2x with 40c (41.5mm measured at the rim). For sure on dry roads. Can probably fit 42-44 on Shimano 2x. I really don't need anything wider than 38/40s within a 4 hour drive. The gravel around here is packed and tamed.
This is my temporary setup for now...
That looks beautiful and clean! Congrats for the build!
Were you able to solve the issue with the stock expander plug? Or did you have to use something different? I'd like to have all the stuff prepared before the frame arrives and if it didn't work for you I'd love to know what do I need to have everything perfect.
Another doubt: can you tell us the metrics of the mounting bolts around the frame? I have already 6 M5 X 10mm but I have doubts about the length that they have in the seat stays and the fork.
Looking forward that Red XPLR build!
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Thanks!
What happened was when I was almost finished with the build, I just so happened to strike a deal for the new Red XPLR.
1. Waiting for the Sram Red 1x13 XPLR groupset that I ordered to arrive. Hopefully in a couple of weeks.
2. Once installed, I'll be running either a set of Pathfinder Pro 47 or Conti Terra Speed 45 paired w/ 58mm deep FarSport wheels.
3. In the meantime I still would like to be able to test ride the bike and dial in my fit. 2x and 40mm tires are just stuff I had lying around.
Now that sounds like a setup! I have the Evo5/6 wheels on my road bike. I've also got the Yoeleos (gifted) which I would probably put on the gravel bike over the Farsports because of the steel spokes, however I got Peter from the forum to build be some wavy gravel wheels instead.
Would love to try the Red AXS XPLR but also can't really fault either the Ltwoo or Wheeltop... wheeltop now the chosen one because of better 50T support.
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You can run eTap road 2x with 40c (41.5mm measured at the rim). For sure on dry roads. Can probably fit 42-44 on Shimano 2x. I really don't need anything wider than 38/40s within a 4 hour drive. The gravel around here is packed and tamed.
This is my temporary setup for now...
You only think You don't need wider. Once you try something like 45 you'll never got back to 40. I guarantee
I can personally recommend TuFO thundero
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Is there a dedicated fender eyelet at the seatstay junction? Apparently there are two rack eyelets, but nothing for fender mounting there. I wonder(hope) if there is one facing downward, on the underside of the seatstay junction.
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There is one insert behind the bottom bracket for fenders.
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Let me know what you think I have enjoyed my @canyon Grizl for three years and I will certainly continue to do so. But the Grizl is an all-rounder that does not excel in pure speed. That's why I decided to build a new gravel bike.
After an extensive search for a suitable gravel frame, I came across @Tideace. They have been supplying very nice gravel and road frames for years and the N.O.A.H. gravel immediately caught the eye. A modern geometry with a robust look.
Build the complete bike last week and today the first test ride. First feeling: "how fast and direct this bike is". I'm completely turned now! This is what I am currently looking for in a gravel bike.
I will share som building tips on my Instagram account. @cyclewithjouke in the weeks.
Below you will find the complete setup:
Frame: @Tideace NOAH
Handlebar: Lexon Unox 40cm gravelbar
Wheels: @zipp 303 s XPLR
Tyres: @Goodyear 45mm XPLR slicks
Groupset: @Sram XPLR
Front chainring: 40t @alugear
OSPW: @Novaride
Saddle: @prologo Scratch M5 Nack (Carbon)
Pedals: @Garmin rally
(https://i.ibb.co/VVsPLyF/20250105-105038.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9n7CpXx)
(https://i.ibb.co/SsCM32v/20250105-104751.jpg) (https://ibb.co/znvB41f)
(https://i.ibb.co/4p5b1QB/20250105-105100.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DQSBrq3)
(https://i.ibb.co/kG5bXdX/20250105-104704.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZfG4xZx)
(https://i.ibb.co/SsdmRSZ/20250105-104652.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tmx28R1)
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Hot dang! Now that is a gravel build. And extra kudos on the Nova Ride OSPW. Thanks for sharing!
I assume the cassette is a 10-44t?
Any issues with tire side wall cuts on those Goodyears paired with the XPLR Zipp Wheels? I have not heard great things about those tires from both consumers and even Sram employees.
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Hot dang! Now that is a gravel build. And extra kudos on the Nova Ride OSPW. Thanks for sharing!
I assume the cassette is a 10-44t?
Any issues with tire sidewall cuts on those Goodyears paired with the XPLR Zipp Wheels? I have not heard great things about those tires from both consumers and even SRAM employees.
Thanks!
It is indeed a 10-44t cassette. I always ride this cassette with a 40 or 42 front chainring.
For now, I am really impressed by the wheels in combination with these tires. I have not seen any issues so far.
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@patliean1
Can you elaborate further on your body measurements (inseam and height) in conjunction with and sizing of the frame, saddle height and cockpit setup.
I'm hesitant on either a 54 or 56 on this frame, and usually ride a ~56 on road/gravel with a saddle height of ~77-78cm
Care to share your thoughts?
I have roughly the same measurements as you and also spent quite some time considering if it should be a 54 or 56. At the end I chose 56.
Slamming the stem and running with a 90 or 100mm stem will give me roughly the same stack as on my road bike (Scott Foil) while having ~30mm shorter reach to add some comfort.
Br,
Andreas
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@ Jouke Bosma
Very nice. Love the colour matched storage cover.
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Anyone running a double front with P505 powermeter? Wondering if it fits and works like intended. Still haven't decided what powermeter I want for my bike.
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Is the 435 chainstay measurement on this frame accurate? Some photos I see the wheel looks very “tucked” and others the gap looks huge! Obviously tire size plays a part there.
This is my only reservation, having never ridden a bike longer than 425 I’m pretty sure I would notice the extra length.
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Yes, it’s 435. I measured it for the XPLR chainlength.
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My Tideace frame is on its way.
https://imgur.com/a/dCZON65
No bolts in fork
Lexon Unox Gravel Cockpit and Wheelset (Nextie SGX with DT240 Hubs) is ordered. Hope it does not take too long (I was told 5-7 weeks).
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Has anyone self painted this frame? If so did you paint the storage cover as well? Assume the cover is plastic?
Thinking of doing this myself and from the frames I've seen here those with the matching cover do look good.
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Has anyone self painted this frame? If so did you paint the storage cover as well? Assume the cover is plastic?
Thinking of doing this myself and from the frames I've seen here those with the matching cover do look good.
Why would you do it yourself? The paintjob of Tideace is good. And you pay around €150,-
I can't do it myself for that money
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I’m doing a custom paintjob here locally, cost 600-800euro…
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What Jouke Bosma says … I have now received the second frame (road bike) and the paint job is excellent. There are western bike brands with lower paint quality.
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Why would you do it yourself? The paintjob of Tideace is good. And you pay around €150,-
I can't do it myself for that money
Yeah I could pay the extra for it to be done professionally, but I'd like to do it myself as part of a long term project. I've done a couple of old frames and it's something I'm interested in doing.
It might not be as good a job as what they'd do, but it'll be my own work which is cool, to me anyway. Others might disagree
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Listing on Tantans website says 1-1/2" 52MM x 2 for the headset but no mention of the fork. When I asked I was told this was also 1 1/2". Can anyone confirm this? If so, can someone recommend me a nice stem (integrated or semi integrated)? Was planning on going with a Deda Vinci and my own handlebars.
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Both 52x40x7, 45x45 - no crown race needed (integrated)
I would suggest a DCR Superbox as you plan to use a Deda Bar. You just need the c ring: https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/de/deda-kompressionsring-fur-dcr-system/138244301/p?srsltid=AfmBOopIZXGT-u7D2k-0OMeY5cQ_thyeEufLTwOtE90FNPyjLvG7m4O_
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I would suggest a DCR Superbox as you plan to use a Deda Bar. You just need the c ring: https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/de/deda-kompressionsring-fur-dcr-system/138244301/p?srsltid=AfmBOopIZXGT-u7D2k-0OMeY5cQ_thyeEufLTwOtE90FNPyjLvG7m4O_
Thanks! Ok, so that means the steerer tube is 1 1/4"?
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No, 1,5" to 1 1/8". See the Deda Specs here: https://dedaelementi.com/media/wysiwyg/dcr-tech/DCR_D-SHAPE_Fork_Technology_v1.pdf
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No, 1,5" to 1 1/8". See the Deda Specs here: https://dedaelementi.com/media/wysiwyg/dcr-tech/DCR_D-SHAPE_Fork_Technology_v1.pdf
Sorry, 1/8th is what I meant. Ok, thanks!
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Has anyone self painted this frame? If so did you paint the storage cover as well? Assume the cover is plastic?
Thinking of doing this myself and from the frames I've seen here those with the matching cover do look good.
Working on just this right now. Frame is primed and I'll start painting sometime this week/early next week. Yes, I'm painting the plastic cover. Masking around the latch on the cover and around the opening on the frame was a bit of a puzzle, but I managed in the end. I should have some photos of the finished product in a week or two
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Working on just this right now. Frame is primed and I'll start painting sometime this week/early next week. Yes, I'm painting the plastic cover. Masking around the latch on the cover and around the opening on the frame was a bit of a puzzle, but I managed in the end. I should have some photos of the finished product in a week or two
Cool, thanks!
I'd be really interested in hearing the process so far, or if you've got any photos of the masking.
Have you painted a frame before? If so how does this compare so far?
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I've painted quite a few. Mainly for myself, but also some frames and helmets for friends and family. Check out my Instagram link down there ⌄⌄ for some photos if you're interested.
Frame is frame lol. They're all the same thing when it comes to painting, even material choice doesn't make much of a difference if you take the time to prep. It's not difficult, just very time consuming. I ordered mine raw and it really cuts down on prep time. There's tons of great stuff on YouTube detailing frame prep and paint techniques from people who are much better than me. If you've never painted before, buy some speed shapes or some kind of round tubes and practice first to get the technique down.
Here's a couple quick shots.
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Can recommend the Speeder Cycling gravel bar with FSA ACR. You just need the change the top bearing because of the different angle (36 degrees). C ring sits nice and flush with the top cap. The gap is about 0,5 mm and retaining collars from bar to the c ring so nothing can move.
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Can recommend the Speeder Cycling gravel bar with FSA ACR. You just need the change the top bearing because of the different angle (36 degrees). C ring sits nice and flush with the top cap. The gap is about 0,5 mm and retaining collars from bar to the c ring so nothing can move.
Thanks. Looking for seperate stem and bars but integrated cabling. Will probably go with the Superbox and my current bars.
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The frame has arrived.
https://imgur.com/a/J0fE2c3
I like the color. Looks live even better than on the pictures. Will protect top tube and other areas with protection film.
Now waiting for Wheelset and groupset so that I can start assembling it.
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Just about made up my mind for this frame, down to the custom paint job. Before I pull the trigger I have a few questions.
I'm a tall dude, and still a little heavy, 193 with long legs and about 100 kgs now (though aiming for 95ish before the season starts up here), and size 47 shoes. Kind of worried about toe overlap so am considering 165 or 170 mm cranks (always rode 175). This should also help with my angles, not having my knees bump my stomach while riding in the drops. Are there any negative consequenses I should keep in mind? The frame should have no prolem with 125 kgs I assume? (Bikepacking during summer).
Can anyone recommend a good BB from Ali (around $50 tops)?
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No toe overlap with size 47 shoes and 175 mm cranks. I asked for the frame weight limit, should be 150 kg according to Eddy.
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Im also tall with 196cm and about 85-90kg. Ride with 175mm cranks and size 46/47 shoes and no problems what so ever.
I did manage to seize my bb. After removing, cleaning and regreasing the bb its fine again. Doesnt like this terrible weather
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I finally completed the build of my TanTan GR201
The complete build has been 8,670 kg (pedals included) and this is the whole setup:
- TanTan GR201 frame with seat post kit, integrated handlebar and thru axles. Chameleon white color.
- Easedon wheels 40mm front profile / 45 mm rear profile, 27mm internal width and Pillar Wing 20 spokes.
- Sram Red E1 levers and brakes
- Sram Force cranks with powermeter. Garbaruk 42T chainring
- Sram GX T-Type rear derailleur
- Sram X0 T-Type cassette and chain
- Pirelli Cinturato Gravel M 45mm front tire
- Pirelli Cinturato Gravel RC 45mm rear tire
I am very happy with the final weight, keeping in mind that due to area in which I live (Alpujarra in Andalucía, Spain) the terrain demands wide tyres and high knobs at least in the sides of the tires.
The mullet development is also something that suits my area a bit, where there are very, very hard and very long climbs. Perhaps for those with more legs or those who live in a less mountainous area, they can opt for the new 13-speed Force XPLR that is supposed to be released in spring.
I can't train because I'm recovering from an operation, but today I went out for a ride with it and the truth is that the sensations are very good. The bike seems agile and is very, very comfortable.
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First bicycle that I built up myself completely:
Frame in size 52. Colour 61 (chameleon white)
SRAM rival 40t + gx eagle axs (10-52) mullet
Elite wheels + tufo thundero 45mm
The One integrated handlebar (38cm)
Assembly was rather easy. Rear axle was too long though.
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Lookin like a white GR201 is getting popular among us :P
Here are few shots from first sunny day this year here.
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Cranks??
Lookin like a white GR201 is getting popular among us :P
Here are few shots from first sunny day this year here.
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RiRo 24mm axle
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beSwiss, what is your saddle height? Could you measure the conventional seattube length (bb to toptube) please? Can't decide if I go 52 or 49, concerned about standover and minimal seatpost extension.
Kopyto, saddle height? Is that 52 too?
Thanks guys
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Size 54 im my case ;)
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Hi everyone!
Joining the club.
Hi again,
I completed the build, with the SRAM GX and Rival shifters, and set out to test it around Issyk-Kul Lake (about 450 km), driving around it in two days. The temperature range from -27°C to 0°C. Out of the total distance, about a third was proper asphalt, and the rest was a mess of varying bad conditions (gravel, ice, snow).
The frame performed excellently: solid and responsive. It absorbed vibrations well, even though I used 40mm tires. The only drawback was that the glove compartment lid rattled slightly, and the storage bag wore through to holes due to the lower bottle cage mounts inside the frame.
As for the drivetrain—an absolute delight. Fast, smooth, precise, and not a single glitch the entire ride.
Yes, the weight went up a bit—now 8.8 kg without pedals.
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How difficult or easy is it to setup Sram transmission derailleurs? Eagle or Red 13sp.
I haven't even ridden my finished build because Ive been waiting to swap the groupset. It's a shame really.
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Hi again,
I completed the build, with the SRAM GX and Rival shifters, and set out to test it around Issyk-Kul Lake (about 450 km), driving around it in two days. The temperature range from -27°C to 0°C. Out of the total distance, about a third was proper asphalt, and the rest was a mess of varying bad conditions (gravel, ice, snow).
Wow, you're in Kyrgyzstan! I've seen some footage of the Silk Road Mountain Race and the cycling there is breathtaking! Not to mention the Kyrgyz cuisine must taste amazing after a long bike ride! Just thinking about it, makes me hungry! The closest Kyrgyz restaurant to me is in Chicago. :-[
Nice bike as well! ;D
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I finally completed the build of my TanTan GR201
The complete build has been 8,670 kg (pedals included) and this is the whole setup:
- TanTan GR201 frame with seat post kit, integrated handlebar and thru axles. Chameleon white color.
- Easedon wheels 40mm front profile / 45 mm rear profile, 27mm internal width and Pillar Wing 20 spokes.
- Sram Red E1 levers and brakes
- Sram Force cranks with powermeter. Garbaruk 42T chainring
- Sram GX T-Type rear derailleur
- Sram X0 T-Type cassette and chain
- Pirelli Cinturato Gravel M 45mm front tire
- Pirelli Cinturato Gravel RC 45mm rear tire
I am very happy with the final weight, keeping in mind that due to area in which I live (Alpujarra in Andalucía, Spain) the terrain demands wide tyres and high knobs at least in the sides of the tires.
The mullet development is also something that suits my area a bit, where there are very, very hard and very long climbs. Perhaps for those with more legs or those who live in a less mountainous area, they can opt for the new 13-speed Force XPLR that is supposed to be released in spring.
I can't train because I'm recovering from an operation, but today I went out for a ride with it and the truth is that the sensations are very good. The bike seems agile and is very, very comfortable.
What was your experience with Tan Tan? Thinking of pulling the trigger very soon
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Wow, you're in Kyrgyzstan! I've seen some footage of the Silk Road Mountain Race and the cycling there is breathtaking! Not to mention the Kyrgyz cuisine must taste amazing after a long bike ride! Just thinking about it, makes me hungry! The closest Kyrgyz restaurant to me is in Chicago. :-[
Nice bike as well! ;D
Thank you!
By the way, I plan to ride the SRMR in 2025 (on a different bike, of course ;D)
Come to us in the summer, you will be able to eat delicious and a lot :)
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How difficult or easy is it to setup Sram transmission derailleurs? Eagle or Red 13sp.
I haven't even ridden my finished build because Ive been waiting to swap the groupset. It's a shame really.
Easier as „classic“ derailleurs. Just follow the steps from the official SRAM installation video. My only issue is that the removal of the rear axle is a l little bit fiddly. I have to push it from the drive side with e. g. a bit to get out. That was mentioned here on one of the first pages.
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I've finally built my frame. I'll post a few photos and impressions of the build shortly. Did my first ride today, I have an r8170 rear brake calliper with a 140mm disc. I've now noticed that the pad or the calliper is too far away, so the pad only grips about 75% of the brake disc. Has anyone noticed this yet?
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Did you remove the 160 mm adapter?
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Did you remove the 160 mm adapter?
Yes, new Brake calipers Always come without. No Adapter.
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How difficult or easy is it to setup Sram transmission derailleurs? Eagle or Red 13sp.
I haven't even ridden my finished build because Ive been waiting to swap the groupset. It's a shame really.
https://youtu.be/i3jtyDbXhEI?si=OCK76OtV5xGqC0q6
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I've finally built my frame. I'll post a few photos and impressions of the build shortly. Did my first ride today, I have an r8170 rear brake calliper with a 140mm disc. I've now noticed that the pad or the calliper is too far away, so the pad only grips about 75% of the brake disc. Has anyone noticed this yet?
It sounds like the 140mm rotor is it too small and you need a 160mm
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Special color painting available.
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A little sneak peek. I'm almost done with paint, the storage cover was a bit tricky. The fork isn't pictured, but it matches the headtube color/effect.
Last minute decision to add some logos and forego any kind of texture on the white portion. Working on the stencils now, should be ready to paint them on and add a couple final coats of clear in the next couple days.
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I finally completed the build of my TanTan GR201
- Sram Force cranks with powermeter. Garbaruk 42T chainring
- Sram GX T-Type rear derailleur
- Sram X0 T-Type cassette and chain
What about cranks and chainring in the perspective of chainline? SRAM Transmission uses 55mm chainline and SRAM Force uses 45mm [Wide = 47,5mm]. Which cranks have you chosen and what offset of chainring have you used? Do you experience any [negative] effects on shifting/performance of the whole drivetrain?
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What about cranks and chainring in the perspective of chainline? SRAM Transmission uses 55mm chainline and SRAM Force uses 45mm [Wide = 47,5mm]. Which cranks have you chosen and what offset of chainring have you used? Do you experience any [negative] effects on shifting/performance of the whole drivetrain?
That combination works perfect. I am running X01 T-type derailleur, GX T-type casette, GX T-type chain, SRAM DUB BB, Sram Wide Road Rival Crankset.
I had the same concerns with chainline, but some of it is fixes itself as a road/gravel rear axle is 142mm while a MTB is 148mm.
So the chainline difference is "just" around 4,5mm in reality and the shifting is absolutely flawless. Can backpedal in all gears.
Have attached a few pictures from different stages of the build process.
Have had it on the road a few times but still haven't decided on stem height :D
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That combination works perfect. I am running X01 T-type derailleur, GX T-type casette, GX T-type chain, SRAM DUB BB, Sram Wide Road Rival Crankset.
I had the same concerns with chainline, but some of it is fixes itself as a road/gravel rear axle is 142mm while a MTB is 148mm.
So the chainline difference is "just" around 4,5mm in reality and the shifting is absolutely flawless. Can backpedal in all gears.
Have attached a few pictures from different stages of the build process.
Have had it on the road a few times but still haven't decided on stem height :D
It’s good to know you have a good chain line with a sram wide crankset. I have a similar build in the works with a wide crankset and the red xplr direct mount RD.
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That combination works perfect. I am running X01 T-type derailleur, GX T-type casette, GX T-type chain, SRAM DUB BB, Sram Wide Road Rival Crankset.
I had the same concerns with chainline, but some of it is fixes itself as a road/gravel rear axle is 142mm while a MTB is 148mm.
So the chainline difference is "just" around 4,5mm in reality and the shifting is absolutely flawless. Can backpedal in all gears.
Have attached a few pictures from different stages of the build process.
Have had it on the road a few times but still haven't decided on stem height :D
How is that stem for you? Considering going for the same.
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How is that stem for you? Considering going for the same.
Wouldn't recommend it, no. The compression ring is too short meaning that the headset cover couldn't clamp properly and I had headset play.
Ended up designing a C-shaped spacer which I 3d-printed and added between compression ring and headset cover and the headset play is gone.
The looong headset spacer you see on the picture is also 3d-printed by myself but is probably far too tall.
Will probably go down by 2,5cm when I dial in the rest of the bike.
That being said, I could share the 3d-files and you could have them printed locally, in which case the headset works great.
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My Noah is also finished, loving the ride!
(https://i.postimg.cc/pyw5dWxd/IMG-3275.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/pyw5dWxd)
(https://i.postimg.cc/dZy79XRv/IMG-3278.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dZy79XRv)
(https://i.postimg.cc/LY7YLR1N/IMG-3279.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LY7YLR1N)
(https://i.postimg.cc/62T48Ty8/IMG-3283.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/62T48Ty8)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Rq6n93k8/IMG-3288.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Rq6n93k8)
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That combination works perfect. I am running X01 T-type derailleur, GX T-type casette, GX T-type chain, SRAM DUB BB, Sram Wide Road Rival Crankset.
I had the same concerns with chainline, but some of it is fixes itself as a road/gravel rear axle is 142mm while a MTB is 148mm.
So the chainline difference is "just" around 4,5mm in reality and the shifting is absolutely flawless. Can backpedal in all gears.
This is great to know. I decided to order an Eagle GX T-Type derailleur/cassette and instead will be using the Sram Red 13sp on a different build.
I am completely clueless about chainline, and didn't even consider that Sram Eagle/MTB uses a different chainline than road.
Thankfully I had a Sram Force Dub-Wide road crankset lying around.
Weather here in Chicago has been colder than in years past for the winter. My GR201 has been fully built in its current state for over a month. Not a single ride yet :(
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I finally completed the build of my TanTan GR201
The complete build has been 8,670 kg (pedals included) and this is the whole setup:
- TanTan GR201 frame with seat post kit, integrated handlebar and thru axles. Chameleon white color.
- Easedon wheels 40mm front profile / 45 mm rear profile, 27mm internal width and Pillar Wing 20 spokes.
- Sram Red E1 levers and brakes
- Sram Force cranks with powermeter. Garbaruk 42T chainring
- Sram GX T-Type rear derailleur
- Sram X0 T-Type cassette and chain
- Pirelli Cinturato Gravel M 45mm front tire
- Pirelli Cinturato Gravel RC 45mm rear tire
I am very happy with the final weight, keeping in mind that due to area in which I live (Alpujarra in Andalucía, Spain) the terrain demands wide tyres and high knobs at least in the sides of the tires.
The mullet development is also something that suits my area a bit, where there are very, very hard and very long climbs. Perhaps for those with more legs or those who live in a less mountainous area, they can opt for the new 13-speed Force XPLR that is supposed to be released in spring.
I can't train because I'm recovering from an operation, but today I went out for a ride with it and the truth is that the sensations are very good. The bike seems agile and is very, very comfortable.
REALLY nice build. I'm looking at the same frame, with a similar configuration, as I live near Alcoy, in Alicante, and my current XPLR 10-44 is not enought for me. Also the current 40mm limitation for tires in my frame makes me take the good option of leaving it to my wife (with 38T 10-44T) and get the GR201 mullet for me ;D
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Closed to finish
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Closed to finish
Really Nice!!
What's the color code you choose?
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Really Nice!!
What's the color code you choose?
Frame is 43 (36 is the same as 43)
Fork and chainstay are UD Black Glossy
https://imgur.com/a/SzR352d
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Frame is 43 (36 is the same as 43)
Fork and chainstay are UD Black Glossy
https://imgur.com/a/SzR352d
Thanks!!
That was my choice, 36 or 43! ;D
Now I now why they look almost the same.
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Here are some more pics. Really happy with the ride. Need to get to used to the new position (much longer than I normally ride) though.
Edit: since I am apparently not able to upload pictures here, you can find them at this link: https://imgur.com/a/gg5WnTE
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I am just in process of building my Noah, but have issues with massive headset play. I am using the Tideace c-ring and handlebars and suspect the c-ring to be out of tolerance or bad design with too little contact to the upper bearing.
I know a few others have had issues with the Tideace bars, but have anybody found a solution to using the original bars but with a better c-ring? Was looking at the Deda DCR headset, but measurements are not so easily found to verify compatibility.
Br.
Andreas
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Welcome to the club. I ended up changing the bar against one from Speeder Cycling.
You have several options:
a) I assume you are using the black c ring delivered with the handlebar. You can change it against the silver one delivered with the frame. That fixes the moving fork as it compresses also from the front. But you will end up in a large gap between headset and top cap. You can either sand down the top cap or (as I did for another frame) glue on a round piece of universal rubber seal under the top cap to close the gap.
b) The FSA ACR 55R headset sits nice in this frame. No gap between top cap and headtube. Also the top cap follows the form of the headtube. The only issue is that every Chinese handlebar uses its own style of spacer/nut combination. So you need a transition spacer from FSA ACR to the tideace ones (3d printed or you have to glue an FSA spacer and a tideace together).
c) Buy a new handlebar with better quality :-)
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I have just talked to Eddy about the handlebar issues. He was not fully aware of general problems yet, since he did not receive a lot of negative feedback from customers. I think it would be good, to report back to Tideace so that they can offer a better solution in the future.
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What's a good option for an integrated handlebar for this frame? Lenox one?
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For example although the Lexon top cap is about 1 mm larger than the headtube, so could be a nicer fit with the headtube. I can recommend the Speeder Cycling, its plug and play with no gap and nice fit to headtube:
https://www.speedercycling.com/Carbon-Integrated-Gravel-Flare-24-Handlebar-SC-GH02-_p414.html
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What's a good option for an integrated handlebar for this frame? Lenox one?
I am happy with the Lexon.
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Built one up
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Hi again,
I completed the build, with the SRAM GX and Rival shifters, and set out to test it around Issyk-Kul Lake (about 450 km), driving around it in two days. The temperature range from -27°C to 0°C. Out of the total distance, about a third was proper asphalt, and the rest was a mess of varying bad conditions (gravel, ice, snow).
The frame performed excellently: solid and responsive. It absorbed vibrations well, even though I used 40mm tires. The only drawback was that the glove compartment lid rattled slightly, and the storage bag wore through to holes due to the lower bottle cage mounts inside the frame.
As for the drivetrain—an absolute delight. Fast, smooth, precise, and not a single glitch the entire ride.
Yes, the weight went up a bit—now 8.8 kg without pedals.
Hi @Lupus can you say which handlebar/stem/aero bar you are using? I’m looking to do a setup like this. Thanks!
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Hi @Lupus can you say which handlebar/stem/aero bar you are using? I’m looking to do a setup like this. Thanks!
Hi,
I've been riding for a long time with Ritchey WCS Carbon VentureMax 440mm, it's a great gravel handlebar. And the stem is a Thomson Elite X4 70mm: heavy, but durable and cute.
Aerobar is carbon noname from tao https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?_u=l20fqh5rlla088&id=534419206970&spm=a1z09.2.0.0.3c282e8dJHrV44
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Was looking to place an order with Tantan for a size 54, but Jessi told me they're out of stock, and the wait will be two months, depending on how many orders they got. Quite funny how she asked if I could go for a size 52 or 56 instead. I could deposit 30% now and pay the rest when it ships.
Will try to contact Tideace and see if they have any stock.
Edit: miscommunication from Tantan, and the frame is in fact in stock in size 54.
When I ordered my frame from Carbonda a few years ago there were some things that would be nice to have, such as extra derailleur hangers etc. Is there anything you guys recommend adding to my order from Tantan? Will not be getting handlebars as I have bars from Kocevlo that I'll use for this build.
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When I ordered my frame from Carbonda a few years ago there were some things that would be nice to have, such as extra derailleur hangers etc. Is there anything you guys recommend adding to my order from Tantan? Will not be getting handlebars as I have bars from Kocevlo that I'll use for this build.
Since the frame does have UDH it is in fact a standard, you can find it everywhere. This is great for us consumers since you don't need a hanger specific for your frame. Then only think you need to look out for when you buy a new UDH is that it is correct thread pitch for your axle.
M12x1.5p is most common, but i have also had M12x1.0p on some frames.
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I want to build a gravel bike for my wife using this frame, but I'm a bit worried about the sizing.
She is 158 cm, do you reckon 49cm frame is ok (even with 70 mm stem), or still too big and I should look for something different?
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Shake out ride this Monday ;D
-GR201 size 540
-9Velo GV45 2.0
-SRAM Eagle GX/Force
-10/52t Cassette 44t Chainring
-Cybrei Ceramic T47 BB
-Continental Terra Speed 45c
-Onirii ONE 3D Saddle
-Fizik Temp Bartape EDIT: I absolutely hate the way these look after install.
-Cyclowax Waxed Chain
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Alright, here is my completed build. Super happy with it and have now ridden around ~100km on it.
Am very happy with the bike overall. Would have gone down a framesize if they had it available, but it works like this.
Rides like a dream!
My stats
Height: 167cm (65.7 inches)
Inseam: 76cm (29.9 inches)
Frame: Tideace GR201 Noah - Size 49cm, color 42 brown (Bought from Tideace via Whatsapp through "Eddy" - good service)
Seatpost: N/A - with frame
Stem: Kocevlo 70mm - Not a perfect fit, needed to 3D-print a C-shaped compression ring spacer (0,5mm) - all perfect now.
Wheels: XMCarbonSpeed D40CU-33 T800 rims 24/24H UD matt without access holes in rim bed, Carbon Speed in-house hubs 36T rachets enduro steel bearings center lock straight pull, Sapim CX-Ray spokes (great experience dealing with "Peter" from XMCarbonSpeed)
Tubeless Valves: XMCarbonSpeed
Tires: Continental Terra Speed Protection, 45C
Bottle cages: Random Aliexpress carbon
Handlebar: Ritchey Comp Butano 380mm (73mm reach)
Saddle: RYET Carbon 3D Printed Saddle Ultralight 175g
Bottom bracket: SRAM DUB T47 Road Bottom Bracket 85.5mm
Crankset: SRAM Rival Wide 165mm (with Quark power meter)
Casette: SRAM GX Transmission 10-52 (dual color)
Chain: SRAM GX Transmission
Shifters: SRAM Rival AXS
Brake pads: N/A - with shifters
Brakes: SRAM Rival AXS
Rear derailleur: SRAM X01 Transmission
Pedals: Shimano SPD PD-M8100
Top tube bag: WEST BIKING Bike Top Tube Bag Narrow
Net weight: 9.0kg
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I want to build a gravel bike for my wife using this frame, but I'm a bit worried about the sizing.
She is 158 cm, do you reckon 49cm frame is ok (even with 70 mm stem), or still too big and I should look for something different?
I am 99% sure that the bike is too large for her.
The bike is almost too large for me, even though I've built it as short as possible, and I am almost 10cm taller.
See more info in my build notes.
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My YouTube video is live. Super happy with the riding dynamics. Proper gravel roads have yet to be seen.
TanTan GR201 Gravel Bike / 9VELO GV45 Gravel Wheels - Superb!
https: //youtu.be/TVES8-aJ3D4 <---Remove the spaces
https://youtu.be/TVES8-aJ3D4 (https://youtu.be/TVES8-aJ3D4)
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Shake out ride this Monday ;D
-GR201 size 540
-9Velo GV45 2.0
-SRAM Eagle GX/Force
-10/52t Cassette 44t Chainring
-Cybrei Ceramic T47 BB
-Continental Terra Speed 45c
-Onirii ONE 3D Saddle
-Fizik Temp Bartape EDIT: I absolutely hate the way these look after install.
-Cyclowax Waxed Chain
That's a beautiful build! What's the total weight with the new groupset?
Seriously, you really need to do a California trip, that bike would tear it up in the desert! ;D
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But you need this bartape first https://www.campandgoslow.com/products
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I want to build a gravel bike for my wife using this frame, but I'm a bit worried about the sizing.
She is 158 cm, do you reckon 49cm frame is ok (even with 70 mm stem), or still too big and I should look for something different?
Way too big, I'm 170 and have a 49
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I am happy with the Lexon.
I am happy with the Lexon.
I flipped the Tideace bars and just received the Lexon. The compression ring seem to fit quite nicely to the diameter of the head tube, but I have ~1mm gap between head tube and compression ring - is that the same for you?
Also, I would prefer to slam the stem, but seems like it need the spacer with two “hooks” to fit - does anybody imagine any issues in removing two of the dots from the compression ring so the handlebar can fit directly without spacer?
Br.
Andreas
(http://)
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I have the same 1mm gap
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I remove those dots with a craft knife. Have done this on the few builds with 3rd party bars, they're not really necessary just help to line everything up.
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Does anybody know the difference between PU+blow molding vs EPS molding? Is Tideace method better than other suppliers of this frame? Maybe they don't use EPS at all and standard bladder instead?
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I finally joined the club, I ordered this frame from TanTan! I got matte black, and I’ll be adding some gold anodized accents for some color
The build is going to be
- TanTan frame, size 58
- TanTan bars, fork, axles, headset,
- 50mm deep, 26mm internal width rims, tubeless, from Peter
- GRX 2x12 groupset
- front and rear derailleur, 11-34 cassette, 160mm ice-tech rotors, cranks
- (ZTTO bar tape)[https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKAZEHZ]
Things I’m still deciding on:
- wheels manufacturing T47BB (seems like a good balance of price/performance)
- (bucklos 3d printed carbon saddle)[https://a.aliexpress.com/_mL9n5p5]
- some spd pedals? Probably just shimano
This is my first full build, and first road/gravel bike. I have a few questions though if anyone can help me out
Will the TanTan seat post clamp accept 7x9 oval carbon rails?
What is the seat post clamp diameter? I want to get a new anodized seat post clamp
For the flat mount brakes, do I need a mounting bolt length specific to the frame? If so, what is the right length?
Are there any parts I’m missing that I’m going to get stuck on during the build? I think I have most of the tools I need already just from taking care of my MTB, but with this being my first full build I might be missing some small parts that some of you take for granted
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Hi guys!
What's the right size axles for this frame?
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142x12 rear and 100x12 front. If that’s what you’re asking?
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142x12 rear and 100x12 front. If that’s what you’re asking?
No. I'm asking about actual length and thread pitch. Axles usually longer than 142 and 100.
Would appreciate if someone can measure.
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No. I'm asking about actual length and thread pitch. Axles usually longer than 142 and 100.
Would appreciate if someone can measure.
Hi!
The 171mm rear stock axle was a bit long with the usual dh, the seller sent 168, its length was fine.
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I read about the State Bicycle All Road v2 (https://www.statebicycle.com/collections/carbon-all-road-gravel-bikes/products/carbon-all-road-v2-frame-fork-set-team-edition) last night. It's obviously the TanTan GR201 but State is marketing it with 2.2" tire clearance rather than 50mm. I've seen pictures with 2.2" tires in the front, and the clearance looks ok if conditions are dry, however, 2.2" wheel on the rear is a tighter fit.
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No. I'm asking about actual length and thread pitch. Axles usually longer than 142 and 100.
Would appreciate if someone can measure.
For the rear (because I ordered a new one not long ago)
L : 168 mm
Thread Length : 15mm
M12 X 1.0
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Hi!
The 171mm rear stock axle was a bit long with the usual dh, the seller sent 168, its length was fine.
For the rear (because I ordered a new one not long ago)
L : 168 mm
Thread Length : 15mm
M12 X 1.0
Thanks guys!
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For the rear (because I ordered a new one not long ago)
L : 168 mm
Thread Length : 15mm
M12 X 1.0
Do you have a link to the one that you bought?
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I just ordered and was told 169 was the correct lenght. Jessi sent a photo of it too, with 169 printed on the axle.
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Do you have a link to the one that you bought?
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EGUqbyC
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https://a.aliexpress.com/_EGUqbyC
Thanks
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I just ordered and was told 169 was the correct lenght. Jessi sent a photo of it too, with 169 printed on the axle.
it seems like the 168 will work also
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Picture of my Frame. I’m going with a wheeltop groupset. 44t 1x up front and 11-46t in the back.
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Bought this seatpost from AliExpress because I needed a 20mm offset. Arrived in only 6 days. And it uses the 2-bolt design rather than the single bolt. Which I despise.
ELITAONE MTB Carbon Seat Post 31.6/30.9/27.2/ Offset 20mm Road Bike Seatpost Carbon Fiber Base Cover
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806983349114.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.9.6a211802IXFbWM&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
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I'm running a 46T. With my Magene P505 I run a very thin spacer which gives enough space between chainring and chainstay.
Do you have a link to the spacer that you use for the 46t chainrings?
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I want to say Eddy is the man if you need a bike frame. I ordered my frame on the 3rd of March and it was painted and shipped on Monday and I got it on Wednesday. If that’s not fast service I don’t know what is. Total 16 days from ordering it to my door.
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I want to say Eddy is the man if you need a bike frame. I ordered my frame on the 3rd of March and it was painted and shipped on Monday and I got it on Wednesday. If that’s not fast service I don’t know what is. Total 16 days from ordering it to my door.
That looks GREAT
Could you please share which chainstay frame protector have you used?
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Ok, putting my order in with TanTan
Will be pairing with the Lexon bars and parts off my current gravel bike, and possibly a Fox 32 TC for a long technical race later this year, similar to @auburntygur
Have gone for the same colour as @patliean1.
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That looks GREAT
Could you please share which chainstay frame protector have you used?
I got it from amazon here’s a link
https://a.co/d/3PwzeL9
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I've seen a few questions, but no definitive answers in this thread:
Has anyone actually run 2.1 or 2.2 tyres in this frame and, if so, what was the clearance like? (Obviously thinking Thunder Burt/Conti Race King if possible)
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I've seen a few questions, but no definitive answers in this thread:
Has anyone actually run 2.1 or 2.2 tyres in this frame and, if so, what was the clearance like? (Obviously thinking Thunder Burt/Conti Race King if possible)
I'm riding 2.0 furious fred but here is one guy with 2.1 thunder burt : https://www.instagram.com/p/DHDR2fvKP44/?igsh=MWR2ZGhodXJ2dDNwdQ==
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I have already a pair of 2,1“ TB for Installation but still awaiting my new wheelset from Peter that should arrive next week. Can post photos then. I will install 3M foil on the chainstays.
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I've seen a few questions, but no definitive answers in this thread:
Has anyone actually run 2.1 or 2.2 tyres in this frame and, if so, what was the clearance like? (Obviously thinking Thunder Burt/Conti Race King if possible)
No pics, but State Bicycle Co claim clearance for 29x2.2 in their marketing spiel, so you should be safe.
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2,2“ is very tight, high risk you shred the chainstays in muddy conditions
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I've seen a few questions, but no definitive answers in this thread:
Has anyone actually run 2.1 or 2.2 tyres in this frame and, if so, what was the clearance like? (Obviously thinking Thunder Burt/Conti Race King if possible)
There is a recent post on WeightWeenie with a pic of 2.2' Race Kings mounted. (about 1/2 way down the page)
https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=176431&start=435
You'll need to make the call for yourself based on the conditions you ride in and if any mud clearance is needed.
Regardless, you'll want to shave the tires hairs on the Kings. :)
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She is 98% finish. Just bar tape after I figure out if I like my hood position. She rides pretty well and I have some 50mm tires on her.
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I've seen a few questions, but no definitive answers in this thread:
Has anyone actually run 2.1 or 2.2 tyres in this frame and, if so, what was the clearance like? (Obviously thinking Thunder Burt/Conti Race King if possible)
I just got mine and was playing around with tires. The Burt's were too big on the rear but the race king has maybe 4mm of clearance.
Idk what to do for the handlebar situation. I haven't cut the steerer yet but it does not seem like I'll be able to compress the headset. It seems loose. Will report back later.(http://)
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I just got mine and was playing around with tires. The Burt's were too big on the rear but the race king has maybe 4mm of clearance.
Idk what to do for the handlebar situation. I haven't cut the steerer yet but it does not seem like I'll be able to compress the headset. It seems loose. Will report back later.(http://)
I recommend using a longer headset compression nut. The one that comes with the bike is too short unless you’re slamming the stem
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Hmm headset keeps some play with the tideace bar. Also want a longer stem so I can solve both problems.
Lexon is on the shortlist, really good price and loads of sizes. Does anyone have pictures of this 1mm gap at the headtube? Any negatives on lexon bars?
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Lexon Unox all good here. Supplied spacers are fine.
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Hey everyone,
Another new user asking for size recommendation lol
I'm getting a frameset next month, but i'm torn between size 49 and 52.
I'm 1,73m with a inseam of 80cm and a saddle height of 69cm. Usually riding size 51-52 bikes (or S on some brands).
Reach and stack wise, i can fit on both sizes. I would probably run a slammed 80-ish cm stem on a 52, while i could run a longer stem on the 49 with at least 15mm of spacers.
I'd rather have a nimble bike than a small boat, so i'm tempted to go with the 49 but i'm worried it will be a bit on the "too" small side.
Anyone in the same size bracket with any advice or feedback on their bike so far ?
Thanks a lot.
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Hey everyone,
Another new user asking for size recommendation lol
I'm getting a frameset next month, but i'm torn between size 49 and 52.
I'm 1,73m with a inseam of 80cm and a saddle height of 69cm. Usually riding size 51-52 bikes (or S on some brands).
Reach and stack wise, i can fit on both sizes. I would probably run a slammed 80-ish cm stem on a 52, while i could run a longer stem on the 49 with at least 15mm of spacers.
I'd rather have a nimble bike than a small boat, so i'm tempted to go with the 49 but i'm worried it will be a bit on the "too" small side.
Anyone in the same size bracket with any advice or feedback on their bike so far ?
Thanks a lot.
I'm 170 with 79 inseam and same saddle height. Went for 49 and have a 100 mm bar. I run the only 2 spacer that are required to run the bar (15mm).
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I'm 170 with 79 inseam and same saddle height. Went for 49 and have a 100 mm bar. I run the only 2 spacer that are required to run the bar (15mm).
Damn, that's it. I'm getting the 49 then, thanks. Your bike looks awesome!!
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I'm 170 with 79 inseam and same saddle height. Went for 49 and have a 100 mm bar. I run the only 2 spacer that are required to run the bar (15mm).
Looking at the picture, you could also swap a seatpost with a offset to accomplish more length.
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Looking at the picture, you could also swap a seatpost with a offset to accomplish more length.
Why ? I don't need more length, my stem is already small. I usually run 120/130.
Too much at the back and I won't have the same legs movements
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Why ? I don't need more length, my stem is already small. I usually run 120/130.
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Sorry, my message was meant for @TikO.
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Sorry, my message was meant for @TikO.
Ah yes good eye! A 100mm stem seems pretty spot-on reach wise for me, but i guess you never know until you get the frame!
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Hmm headset keeps some play with the tideace bar. Also want a longer stem so I can solve both problems.
Lexon is on the shortlist, really good price and loads of sizes. Does anyone have pictures of this 1mm gap at the headtube? Any negatives on lexon bars?
The Tideace bars and spacer set is crap - I had the same with tons of play. Got the Lexon bars instead and quality in much better and zero play.
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Yes, same here. Cannot recommend the bars.
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What's the name of the bars coming from tideace? Are they the same that tantan sells or a different style?
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Hmm headset keeps some play with the tideace bar. Also want a longer stem so I can solve both problems.
Lexon is on the shortlist, really good price and loads of sizes. Does anyone have pictures of this 1mm gap at the headtube? Any negatives on lexon bars?
Picture of the gap with Lexon bars:
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I have a Bigrock Skyline Handlebar on order. It will arrive Mid April. I can post photos then.
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I'm 170 with 79 inseam and same saddle height. Went for 49 and have a 100 mm bar. I run the only 2 spacer that are required to run the bar (15mm).
Are those also lexon bars?
The tideace bars also seems kinda weird, I have 100mm length. The total length from front to back is like 14cm. My blackinc bars are 110mm length and measure total 17.7cm. Can anyone measure the lexon bars front to back of the stem for me? Ill just get one of those
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No it's the original Tantan HB047 bars that are sold with the frame. Only lenght that was available in 360mm width when I ordered it was 100mm. I asked them to tell me when 110 and 120 would be available. Last month it was, and I ordered 120 for my road bike. The updated the bars to 1 1/8 inch (was 1 1/4 with a sleeve before for 1 1/8). Much better !