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Re: Carbonda Gravel Carbon frame CFR707 Just a 200 mile update.  So far I've done some mixed adventure rides, 30 mile gravel race, and a fast road ride with others on true road bikes.  I'm still very pleased with the 707! 

During the gravel race, I hit plenty of serious potholes, stuck with the lead pack for the first 8 miles so it was about 8 people wide and no way to avoid them.  I hit some hard enough to break my bottle cage on the seat tube and the down tube bottle fell out.  Frame, fork, seatpost, and bars are still solid.  Averaged 21mph, this bike is probably 2mph faster than my old Monstercross bike.  This isn't my video, just showing the course, it even went through an actual gravel pit! https://www.facebook.com/joe.miles.9484/videos/1424082484697432

Luckily fit is perfect.  I tend to ride smaller drop bikes (but larger MTB's).  I'm 5'10" with ~31" inseam and long arms, yet opted for a medium with 400/80mm bars.  It fits like a 54cm bike, exactly like I wanted.  I think my only two nitpicks have been the levers being mounted just above the sticky paste on the handlebars, so I had them slide down during the race.  Seems to be fixed with some carbon paste and higher torque.  Also, shifter cable friction may be an issue with the tight bends through the headset.  I first built with Shimano SP41 housing and cheap Amazon cable with no lubrication, sometimes the front derailleur would get hung up going down to the small ring, and the rear would sometimes need 2 shifts one direction, and one the other to make a single gear change.  I replaced both cables with Jagwire cables and used Tri-flow in the housings, the front seems perfect now, and I think the rear just needs dialing in cable tension, only have 1 ride since the change.  If I did it again, I would've just saved up for electronic if I wanted to stick with full internal.

May 12, 2022, 12:05:19 PM
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Re: VeloBuild Headset Play Issue Using Separate Stem/Handlebar: Resolved.
I also posted this in the VB-177 thread. Figured a brand new topic/thread would better raise awareness.

Thank you Patliean1 for all the troubleshooting and your detailed assessment.

We have been working on resolving the headset play issue some customers with the separate bar/stem combo have experienced and are happy to announce that the issue has been resolved by increasing the thickness of the C shaped bearing press by 0.5mm.

All shipments since April have been sent with the new bearing press and we have also sent it to existing customers that have been affected and it has resolved their issues.

If you have the separate handlebar/stem and are experiencing this issue please contact us for a new C shaped bearing press by email at info@velobuild.com

New customer orders of the separate handlebar/stem will also include split spacers.

May 13, 2022, 08:44:14 PM
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Re: Juin Tech GT-F brake calipers (dual piston)
„TraceVelo“ has noted in his video comparing that the disc-brakes on the cheap models is no rubber seal at the transition from the brake arm to the brake piston but there’re included in the Juin Tech F1…

Are the BR-05 brakes from Oniri with or without rubber seal?

Some update from my side since I put some more Kms on the bike with the BR005s… all good so far but no wet weather riding.

The BR005s have the rubber seal as far as I can tell comparing to the old BR002s.
Comparing to the Juintech the BR005s need more cable pull for activation, however I have different break levers on the bikes…

I can definitely recommend  these breaks.

BR Chris

May 23, 2022, 03:09:46 PM
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Lightbicycle WR40 wheels Back in January, it was time for a new (light) road frame !

flybike-asia.com had one I really liked: https://www.flybike-asia.com/product/145.html
But Carbonda told me the MOQ was 30 ;D

At the same time a friend got me a super deal for an Aethos frame... and boum! I fell off.
Then looking for a light wheelset, I took the WR40 rims: https://www.lightbicycle.com/700C-road-bicycle-rims-32mm-wide-40mm-deep-symmetric-clincher-road-disc-brake-available.html

The finish is just beautiful UD carbon weaves with a shiny epoxy straight out of the mold, no coating.
Which apparently is more scratch resistant.
The wavy shape and the finish makes them stand out from the boring wheels around and that I had for years.

1334g, with DT240 Exp hubs and CX-ray spokes.
Always no spoke holes now, so no need ever to tape them.

They are 32mm wide.
28mm GP5000 tires fit perfectly for the aero.
And provide a very smooth and comfortable ride on the not so good roads here in Belgium.
They have now about 4 months and 3000km, and are still as new.

May 26, 2022, 09:08:58 AM
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Re: Juin Tech GT-F brake calipers (dual piston) so my BR-05 arrived (also got the ONIRII ones). Couldn't test them yet though.

Bad news:they do not use K03S/K05S pads. Ordered them online and they (K05S) are not as wide as the ones that come with the BR-05.
Good news: local bike shop got a part restock and the G03S fit.


May 28, 2022, 08:29:17 AM
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Re: Ican S3 XC Frame New Fork. The Judy was awful, but found this 100 mm XC 32 Stepcast and rode it on local enduro trails/park today and it’s really shinned today on natural hand built flow vs the machine cut trails.
May 29, 2022, 05:35:17 PM
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How I painted my frame I decided to paint my Carbonda CFR707 frame myself. This was my first bike painting project, and I learned quite a bit during the process. I thought I’d document my experiences for anyone else contemplating a similar project. I made plenty of mistakes along the way so hopefully this will save someone some trouble!


I used SprayMax 2K primer and clear coat, and Montana Cans Gold paint. I also painted the bottle cages using the same procedure. I left the insides carbon since they would quickly get scuffed by the bottles.


A few general tips:
  • Always wear PPE when working with aerosols, especially the 2K stuff! I wore a respirator, gloves, and safety glasses when doing any kind of spraying. (All of my sanding was wet sanding, so there was no concern with dust.)
  • I used a scrap of PVC pipe to practice and test techniques on. This gave me a good idea of how well the paint sanded and polished, and I was also able to practice doing fades.
  • Bikes are very weird shapes, so it helps to have a large work surface and a rack to hang the frame during painting.
  • Change sandpaper frequently, as the finer grits clog very easily.
  • Always inspect your work in good lighting, such as direct sunlight. Some issues will not show up well otherwise.
  • The online color guide for Montana Cans wasn’t a great match. The frame ended up significantly more purple than intended. The paint did match the color samples on the cans though.
  • I had a few issues with my finger overhanging the spray nozzle and causing drips. It pays to check your finger position frequently.



June 04, 2022, 12:47:29 PM
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Re: Onirii M2 and M4 hydraulic disc brakes Would really kill my interest in these if the pads where proprietary tbh
June 12, 2022, 03:54:18 PM
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Re: Sunrimoon helmets, or helmets in general - Update: they finally arrived Yeah, i got some solid "nope not safe" answers on reddit when i was asking about stems and bars from Ali. For the sake of keeping my teeth I'm still a bit wary of anything in the front of a bike that could fail (wake stems..) but i did find Kalloy Uno, which given their history and that their products are iso tested, i'm happy to trust.
June 15, 2022, 07:05:08 AM
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Re: Velobuild GF-002 Just finished up building my new GF-002 frame. Almost all parts except for the bars/stem were transferred over from my GF-001.


Aside from a few stumbling blocks that were on me, the build was smooth. Frame and separate bar/stem combo from VB have been great and I'm happy with everything so far.


Learnings:


1. No cabling exposed with separate VB bar/stem: This bar/stem combo has fully integrated cabling with no exposed cabling at all (unless you don't want internal cabling and route on the outside of the bars). Unlike the integrated bars where the cables/wires poke out under the stem before going down the fork. This is only an issue if you're running an external Di2 junction box like I am as you normally place it under the stem where you have access to the wires being exposed, can connect the junction box and then the wires go down the fork. This is how I have my VB-R-168 set up.


Considered getting an internal junction box to mount to the opening in the top of the downtube, however I wasn't able to source one easily (aka I was too cheap and didn't find a deal I liked, plus needed another junction and extra wire). Someone suggested I just drill a hole in the stem and that's what I did! Solution worked perfectly and I don't have any concerns with the integrity of the stem provided how small the hole is and how thick the carbon in that area is. Photo below.


2. Smallest chainring for the GF-002 is 46T: I tried mounting my regular compact Shimano 2x crankset 50/34 and the small chainring was pressed hard against the chainstay with no room to move. Not sure if my choice of BB made a difference but I have a Wheels Manufacturing BB386EVO. I ended up getting some 24mm spacers for the crankset shaft to push out the crank and 3mm worth of spacers did the trick. Found out after from VB about the 46T chainring minimum.


A few things I appreciate having that my GF-001 didn't are:


- Fender eyelets in the fork
- Additional bottle/bag mounts on the side of the fork and under the downtube
- Round seatpost


Really happy with how the paint job turned out. I wasn't sure about their ability to blend the two colors but they did a good job with the transition. Decals were made locally and splatter is just some left over plasti-dip splattered by moi.


The newly revised slightly taller C ring for the headset seems to be making a difference to prevent the play issue some were experiencing with the separate bar/stem option. Overall happy with how it turned out.




June 15, 2022, 12:22:58 PM
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