Thanks Thomas for this feedback. It's nice to see people spending time to write detailed reviews like that!
I'm about to pull the trigger on the Elite Qubo fluid. I can get it for 200€. I don't need it now, weather is really nice, but I really could ride more if I had one (after work, I pick up the kids and it's already dark outside)

I'm going to quote myself, from a different post (the one on 27.5+ wheels compatibility with 29er frames)
You might remember that when I moved from 29er to 27.5+ wheels I posted a comparison on a test loop with various wheel combination. I've done that same loop over lunch today.

So, that was with my FR-202 frame, 2x9 drivetrain:

Full 29 on 8/31: 38"57'
29 rear, 27.5+ front on 9/3: 36"18'
Full 27.5+ on 9/7: 34"33'

With CS-496, Eagle: 31'44".

This is available on Strava if you are curious. There is multiple things behind this achievement:
- I pushed hard today (my last ride before 10 days, going to Greece with the family!)
- I trained efficiently on my road bike in the last weeks
- The bike is pretty good!

another quick update on my road bike. I've just converted my winter wheels (the ZTR Crest) to Tubeless. I had tubeless compatible rims (already equipped with tape), valves and sealant. It was a shame to not convert!

In a nutshell: I highly recommend tubeless to anyone who has compatible components.Yesterday I've beat more then 10 Strava PR in one single ride

There are not many official Tubeless tires, I've picked the Schwalbe Pro One, 28 mm. My previous tires were Schwalbe Durano, 28 mm, mounted with tubes. Here is my review:

- MOUNTING: difficult. I'm experienced with tire mounting and tubeless setup but those were difficult. I had to fight to mount the tire on the rims, but that's probably because my rims are MTB, not road rims. The profile is probably higher on my rims. Tubeless setup was easy then.
- BENEFITS:
   * The first benefit is comfort. There is a huge improvement, even though I start from 28 mm tires. Same pressure but the tires are a lot more supple. I used to feel a hit when rolling over road cracks, bumps. It's all gone now. Everything is absorbed by the tire. I even rode on cobblestone, crossed railway. Smooth.
   * The next benefit is grip. I went down hairpin turns, long descent and felt more secure then ever. I have beat my PR on a descent yesterday.
   * Then, amazingly, there is a rolling resistance benefit, very noticeable. This is odd as it does not fit with added comfort and grip, but hell it does! Schwalbe claims that Durano with tubes suck 29 Watts when Pro One suck only 17 Watts. My ride yesterday tell me this is real. And what a sound, as Simon and Garfunkel sang, the sound of silence.
    *Weight. There is a benefit here. 80 g / wheel, with 30 ml of sealant (half of what I use in my 27.5x2.8 MTB tires). Does it make a difference? It should. Did I feel it? No! But it's there and it's better this way then an added weight!

I don't mention the obvious benefits of tubeless but they apply here as well as in MTB: no more tube pinching, ability to reduce the pressure to what you need (rather then what will prevent punctures), auto-repair of punctures.

So, I'm sold to tubeless for road bikes now. I will keep these wheels all winter and will mount my mountain wheels (carbon tubular) next Spring.

A real power meter is way beyond what I want to spend! But if you want left/right power, that's the only tool available.

Most smart home trainers providing power values actually do not have power sensors. They just rely on speed/resistance level combo. They know the power curve of their equipment, they calculate it but don't measure it.
So, this is just the same as a basic trainer equipped with a speed sensor. If you use a software which has calibrated your trainer, it will tell you the calculated power.

Then, I thought about smart trainers. And when I say "smart" I don't mean those who tell your speed/power, I mean those being controlled by a software. What they do is change the resistance. But thinking twice about it, that's not really what we want. What is important is to get in the right power zone, and this depends then always on you (how fast you pedal). If the resistance increases but you drop your cadence, or change gears to compensate, then you miss completely the point.

All that to say that I'll most likely just go with a basic trainer, good quality, silent (fluid resistance) and get the smart side of it with my speed/cadence sensors (Smart BT) coupled to a good software, calibrated on my trainer. I'll play with my gear (and legs) to get into the working zone I need to be in.

Thanks karstenhorn for this detailed feedback! Very interesting.
I think one key point I need is to get a training plan incorporated. I don't want to be messing around and get bored. Your setup looks very fun!

And for those using Strava, I just noticed this: "Premium cyclists get two free months of Zwift every year." Pretty cool. If you use indoor trainer 4 month a year, that's only 2 month of subscription to pay.

OK, I think I have thrown in the towel with the rear axle. After a few email exchange I see this is going nowhere. And the picture of the axle that would fit, sent by Peter, show me that it would not be any better then my current axle with 5 mm of washers. His axle shows a very long body.

So, to sum up, based on my experience + MVinter, this is a great frame except those problems:
- very poor design of the rear brake internal routing (expect hours of pain)
- expect problem with the rear axle (even though MVinter and me have face a different problem)
- Headset cup should be OK, I probably had an isolated problem (I'd call that a B stock frame!)

Just so you understand the axle issue, here is the picture sent by Peter of the axle that should fit

And my axle (still from Peter but not fitting this frame). You see the head is shorter, that's probably why I need washers, they have not trimmed the length...

I mean anything but an e-Bike. The kind of climb where you get off the saddle before you even start

Hi MVinter,

I'm very excited to see your built! Please share some pictures. I'm particularly interested to know if you faced the same issues I did:
1. rear axle issue? Did you get it from Peter?
2. How about the headset height and lack of level issue?
3. The brake line feed issue? 

I did a first quick ride yesterday to setup everything. Eagle 12x is a lot more delicate to set then my previous 2x9. It has to be dialed in very precisely. Apart from that Eagle is just awesome. Crisp shifting, always in the right gear. And I confirm that I keep my 32 ring.
Frame size is good. I've picked an unusual 17" frame for my 5'11" size, based on top tube length. It was the right choice for a trail oriented bike.

Another test this afternoon, longer one!