I'll let you know as soon as I will have tested it! But I already know that 32 chainring is perfect to me.

My previous bike was a 2x9 drivetrain:
36/11=3.27 ratio
22/34=0.65 ratio
Eagle is:
32/10=3.2
32/50=0.64

That being said, I learned from my road bike that if you run out of gear, you just push harder. So I could probably accommodate a 34 chainring, but absolutely not a 36.

I'd say that any Shimano 11 sp RD with a longer B-screw will do it. Some shops sell this screw but you can find it in any hardware shop.

Here is one:
 http://www.moilutin-cycles.fr/vis-acier-pignon-vtt-m-4x07-mm-x-25-mm-noir-c2x18198542

OK, so you tell us that you ride places with a full rigid singlespeed (frame and fork) where people use full-sus. Then you tell us that you go that fast and hard that you already broke a fork.

And you ask us what we think about it?

I'd say, buy a full-sus
At least install a proper suspension fork, this will take you long way.

I really love Quadlock products. They are very expensive, but my phone is held strong during mountain biking and the "Poncho" is a perfect protection from water, dust and mud.

Regarding sensors I already use a Heart Rate Monitor. This is what got me to pay the Premium account at MapMyRide (they call it MVP). It is the same with Strava, no premium no HR! I don't have a power meter and don't plan on it, too expensive, but Strava emulates power, which is a good starting point. But you need accurate speed for that. GPS speed is far from accurate, so I will buy very soon a couple of Smart BT sensors: cadence and speed (http://www.alltricks.fr/F-41479-accessoires-electronique/P-204655-pack_capteur_vitesse___cadence_rpm_wahoo_fitness).
Riding on the road in the last few weeks I realized that there is one specific cadence where I'm strong, I want to analyze that.

So the Strava Premium account will enable me to access the analysis of HR, Speed and Cadence. Correlated with Strava's power emulation I should be able to get some nice information on riding efficiently.

I've just ordered some stuff from Quadlock (I mount my phone on my bike, car, etc...). Good news is that they offer 1 month of Strava Premium for free. So I've just upgraded.

The trick is that you have to set your payment so that if you don't cancel within the next 30 days you automatically start to pay. Now I've got a month to decide if Premium is worth €55/year.

Hi iammemares, those are good questions, let me try to answer.

I believe there should be a metal insert on the disc side of the frame to protect the carbon??  The relief in the frame suggests this as well.  I believe also some of the pics online show a reversible metal piece on the disc side as well?

I'm 100% positive that there is nothing missing. Peter has provided me with detailed picture of each side of the rear end of the frame. This is the way it it supposed to be. And I'd be curious to see the pictures you mentioned with a reversible piece of metal. I've searched all the pictures I could find but never found anything like you mention.

1. How about the rear axle issue? 

I'm still waiting on Peter to tell me how he wants to fix this. Again, I'm not happy with 5mm of washers. And this axle did not come for free.

2. How about the headset height and lack of level issue? 
3. The brake line feed issue? 

This is a good and difficult question. Let me explain. This kind of problems happen. But they should never pass quality control. The frame should have been downgraded as B stock. Maybe it was and I was not told about it. I did not complain to Peter about it, neither mention it, because I got the frame for free. Had I paid the frame, I would have asked for compensation. There is nothing you can do but fix it the way I did or return it.

What is the current A2C with the 110 fork that yields the 68.5 HA.

I'm not convinced in my ability to measure this accurately. This is a stock Reba 29", solo air, 100 mm, 2012-2013 model. Bumped to 110 mm. Found this on internet: 100mm=>473mm A2C. 120mm=>493mm A2C. So the best answer should be 483 mm A2C.

Has Peter acknowledged these issues and have they been corrected.

Again, I've only mentioned the axle problem and it is not solved for now.

One more brake update. Yesterday, I was coming from a short ride back home. There is a very narrow road right before I arrive at home and a big truck in front of me 
I was going fast, over 40km/h, on that flat narrow section. Not the smartest thing of the day 

So, I've hit the brakes and I've locked the rear wheel. Just a split second, I could then modulate to slow down. All that to say that there is plenty of power in the JuinTech brakes! More then I thought. I'm still not 100% comfortable with those road levers, that wheel lock was really my fault. But now I'm even more confident in my brakes, they are really strong.

Super nice! I like the orange accent.
Do you plan on using proper automatic pedals? I can't picture myself using flat!

And yes, I also cut carbon steerer with a hacksaw. Very efficient, clean and fast. Aluminum is more difficult and I use a special tool to cut tubes.