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Messages - Sakizashi

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151
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Onirii One
« on: October 28, 2023, 01:41:49 AM »
I can start another thread about the Bigrock road frame, but curious to know if you had run across thoughts out there comparing the two.

152
Here are some options for 650b wheels:

https://www.lightbicycle.com/650b-tubeless-bike-wheels-32mm-wide-35mm-deep-clincher-for-cyclocross-road-and-gravel-bikes.html

https://www.speedercycling.com/24mm-Internal-Wide-Carbon-Gravel-650B-Wheelset_p387.html

You also can ask for an MTB rim laced to road hubs and there are a lot more options, for example:

https://www.lightbicycle.com/carbon-mountain-bike/carbon-mountain-bike-rim/650B/page/1

In general, I think 650b really makes sense if you want to go with a 27.5x2.1"- 2.2" MTB tire, otherwise the tire selection is limited and 700c is a better choice. There are a few high-end XC tires that may make that worth it as they tend to roll really fast and have deeper tread.

153
Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Titanium custom gravel frame
« on: October 25, 2023, 03:52:25 PM »
I dont know if Waltly would do it, but you could ask for a 3d printed yoke or another machined design that allows for fully internal routing. The cost probably wouldnt be worth it though and upgrading to run a Sram AXS system might be cheaper.

154
This is the frame

https://www.lightcarbon.com/new-integrated-road-disc-brake-frame_p136.html

I think they swapped the fork on it. Maybe there are other changes like using a different layup?

Speaking of forks, I really wish that they offered more than one fork rake for the LCR017. Ritte does this with a single design, but I am not sure how they do it. One way would be to use a bolt through design like OPEN and just change out the alloy hardware + a shim between the fork and the caliper.

155
https://road.cc/content/news/wiggle-reportedly-heading-towards-administration-304591

To answer the question, they are headed towards the equivalent of chapter 11 after their PE owner pulled their funding commitment. They likely need to clear inventory off the books to try and find a new source of funding. I would use a credit card you feel comfortable doing a chargeback on.

This is the part I have my eye on. Should be ~150g
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/p/prime-primavera-x-light-pro-carbon-handlebar?color=black&roadHandlebarWidths=36cm

156
Ah yeah. Its on my list of name name brand frames along with the Domane RSL and the Melee, but i am looking for something I can build and take parts on and off of without risking either of my main race rigs. It will probably also take over my around down duties from my single speed cross race bike which gets tiresome sometimes.

The build plan is likely
  • Apex AXS, maybe with polished levers
  • Lewis Brakes Road Calipers, assuming I can get my hands on some
  • Light weight wheels, not sure which ones, but will probably use my LB set for a while
  • Some lightweight cranks maybe sram red, elilee or skypivot
  • Not sure on bars yet, but likely a two piece w/ a Kalloy Uno stem
  • + some custom 3d printed parts

I would love a frame with the geometry of the Domane RSL but made of round tubes and lighter, but right now the TanTan / LTK frame seems like the best fit.

157
Woops. Hit send too quick.

Its not perfect in terms of what I am looking for but would love to add it to the list. Which frame is this?

If anyone can figure out who makes it (I doubt it's a fully custom frame), the Fezzari Veyo might fit the bill.  At retail, it's probably too expensive (though not bad as a full bike), but if you can find the mfr, it looks close!

https://fezzari.com/products/veyo

For some reason I thought Fezzari's were all closed molds , but also 32mm clearance.

At 32mm clearance, the road frame from Bigrock looks interesting. 730g. Light fork, seems like a nice blend of carbon. Dont love the downtube logo but otherwise seems interesting: https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a21n57.1.0.0.471d523cOdYnYL&id=722965987747&ns=1&abbucket=7#detail

158
Thanks but the Airwolf doesn't meet the stack requirement. 550mm at this size *might* work for me with a -20g degree drop stem; generally looking for a racier geometry not an endurance one.

159
Carbonda CFR 1056, i read it can handle a bit than more than the 32 claimed.
On this video ( ) a guy runs with schwalbe g-one, probably the 35mm version.

Thanks an interesting suggestion. It doesnt meet my Stack or HTA requirements though. I also agree with @johnnyrabbit that clearance is also suspect.

160
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / 35mm tire clearance road bike?
« on: October 14, 2023, 11:15:42 PM »
I am looking for road bike frames with 35mm tire clearance. Price should be under $1k for a fork+frame, but flexible up to $2k. Ideally under 1kg weight.

I am specifically looking for a frame with
  • 420mm long chainstays or less
  • HTA of 72 degrees or steeper
  • ETT of 520 to 540mm with a reach under 390mm
  • Stack less than 540mm
  • 1-1/2 headset bearings top and bottom

So far I have found the Tantan TT-X37.

Goal is to do a very light 1x build that can handle riding around town, a little cx, and be a test bed for some 3d printed products I am working on.

Any other options?

-----------------------------

Here is the current list of options that meets my requirements
  • Tantan TT-X37
  • Long Teng LTK266-D: might be same frame as Tan Tan version but listed at 980g vs. 1050g

161
I like rhinowalk saddlebags, risk titanium bolts, towild lights.

I dislike anything from og-evkin.

Any thoughts on RISK vs. Wanyifa bolts? I have had the latter in my cart for while.

Interesting take on the pulley wheels; I'm using a pair of cheap alloy ones with ceramic bearings on both my mountain bikes (one SRAM GX and one Microshift Advent X derailleur). No problems with either of them and they look great. Have been using them for a few months now. I'd rate them as decent value but mostly an aesthetic upgrade.

I am pretty hard on my bikes. Ridden in the rain and mud then hosed down with one of those Muc Off pressure washers, ive trashed a few sets of stock sram jockey wheels as well. I only have sram groups at this point so the ones with 689 bearings use reducers. Between those reducers, the shields, and the questionable quality of the bearings there is a lot of play. They also died really quickly.

Kogel is pretty average IMO regarding bearings but their design work is good and the 688 bearing size has a lot of great bearings available for it. Eventually the plan is to swap these out for Enduro XD-15 bearings. Curious to see if they really are a tough as their reputation.

162
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Yishun R086-D Aero Road
« on: October 14, 2023, 01:13:35 PM »
So basically, based on my not-so-good understanding of the issue, compression plug up until upper headset bearing = better right? And failure of headset happens because of short compression plug which results to headset preload and eventual destruction of the steerer?

Once the stem is tight you don't lose preload because of the plug. The issue is the plug moving when adding preload during installation or mitigating damage due to the loss of preload due to an accident on the road that moves the stem (e.g., hitting a pothole). Modern headsets have an inner bearing that's chamfered. The ones where the cables don't pass though use a very thin compression ring to ensure a tight fit and deal with tolerance issues. Most designs need <2nm of preload. The challenge with the headsets designed to pass cables though is that the the compression rings require higher preload. FSA specs 5nm for their ACR system and quite a few others are in the 4nm range. Because of this, using a quality expander plug is critical to prevent it from slipping out during installation.

A longer plug never hurts, but the importance of a longer plug depends on the design of the compression ring. Length helps because it pre-tensions the steerer tube which can help mitigate local damage if preload is lost. However, this kind of damage is less of a risk with the ACR and DCR systems because of the way their compression rings are designed. That also holds true for the Token Cable Box system and the Enve Inroute / Chris King Aeroset. This is why those systems come stock with expansion plugs that are 40-50mm vs. 70mm+

Edit: also wanted to add that on the SL8 Specialized switched to a composite ring, also redesigned with more contact area which reduces the potential for damage, though they still have a very long extension under their expander plug

163
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Yishun R086-D Aero Road
« on: October 14, 2023, 01:25:26 AM »
I can recommend the 70mm long version from Deda Elementi. Not available in the US though, IIRC.

Also, it’s not only about having support against the clamping force of the stem. Most shorter expanders provide this as well as the stem obviously sits on top of the steerer and has a stack height of max 40mm. It’s also about providing stability against the bending forces that occur when going over bumps or pulling on the bars. Ideally, if your frame is the correct size and you’re not using a humongous tower of spacers underneath the stem, the expander will protrude all the way or almost until the upper headset bearing. This provides maximum stability.

This for instance is also why Specialized provided super long expanders in their Tarmac SL7 recall. The steerer movement under load meant that the compression ring of the upper headset ate into the carbon steerer until it snapped. The new expander limits this. In my opinion this issue is not isolated to the Tarmac SL7. It’s a problem of internal cable routing designs per se.

The end result is correct, a longer plug is helpful. The reason why isn't correct. It's sort of off topic, but it's worth thinking about in the name of safety of internal routing systems. I've been working on trying to make <2mm over bearing options possible (largely for my own use) and it's really hard because of what's involved and the potential risks of not getting it right.

The majority of the bending forces are borne by the carbon tube. Carbon is exceptionally good at managing loads like that and the expander is fit via a very small amount of friction. It's not going to do a whole lot in terms of keeping that tube rigid and preventing bending. What it does do is that it prevents the carbon tube from shearing locally as it preloads the carbon tube.

Historically a long expander wasn't as critical because the steerer made contact with the compression ring nearly 360 degrees and was held relatively tight against the upper bearing. Even if you lost preload and the bending got worse, the typical symptom was your steerer developing the "ring of death." This meant eventual failure but more often than not seems to be spotted before it led to an accident when riders checked on chronically loose headsets.

The SL7 failures also start with the loss of headset preload. This causes three things to happen. First the bending moment increases exponentially, second the steerer is now facing local impacts against the compression spacer which in the SL7s case was a relatively small surface area part, third the steerer can get worn via movement against the metal spacer and because of the design of that spacer would rapidly develop the "ring of death." These three meant that fork failures happened much faster than on other bikes. The SL7 fix therefore needed to address all three: improved plug, extension hanging off the bottom to limit the effect of those impacts, and a metal ring to be a new wear surface and further distribute forces around the steerer

This is less of a problem for other systems like the FSA ACR because their compression plugs use a different design that's heavier but less likely to lead to preload loss and their C ring has more contact area. Its even less of a problem for the current gen Deda DCR because it uses a nylon spacer that will wear the carbon less and it's designed to fit tightly to the steerer. It's also 15mm deep which has even more contact area.

With all of these systems you should check them every few thousand miles or so even if you have never had any issues with preload to look for wear. If your headset can't hold preload, I would chuck it and replace it with either the FSA or Deda system that fits.

TLDR: Headset preload is more important than ever. Don't ride with a loose headset. Using a high quality insert / expander will certainly help!




164
These are my two best:

Kalloy Uno Ultralight 7050AL Stems: $17.50 https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255799842115476.html
These are very light and generally a quality component. Barely heavier than the Darimo AL stems and less than 1/10th the price.

Ridenow TPU Tubes: $6-$8 each for the 24g versions: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805247862356.html
Light and good quality TPU tube. They make a lighter version, but I have yet to try them.

Worst:
Any pulley wheels or ospw stuff. Total junk bearings. Most use the 689 size. If you want to play with fancy bearings in your RD, look for people reselling Kogel ones that they picked up for free during their sales.

165
Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Titanium custom gravel frame
« on: October 13, 2023, 03:33:35 PM »
Short answer: It kind of can be done, but you'd need rather special road cranks for it. The issue is not chainring size; it's cranks being generally weird.

At the absolute minimum chainline position, there is space for a 46 or 47 t chainring no problem. The issue is not chainring size, but that there is virtually zero lateral space between the ring and the stay. Meaning, you'd need a crank with the spider offset to the right side of the chainring. That may sound very trivial from an engineering standpoint ... because it totally is. But being bound by what you can buy off the shelf, you're now basically looking at frankensteining together a very custom crankset from modular crank parts. Or having stuff machined. Or go very wide (which nobody wants, because it sucks ass, in a bad way).

I see, that's another tradeoff that I wouldn't make. It would change the chainline and again violate the frame fit specs from the groupset manufacturers even for 1x. At shorter chainstays you have even less margin of error to play with in that respect. You have a min 395mm CS length to be compatible anyway. IME violating the frame guidelines quickly degrades shifting quality and leads to dropped chains, ghost shifting and all sorts of fun.

For a single speed setup like in the photo; sure it doesnt matter and it looks like it would be an interesting bike to ride.

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