If you go back me and the others had a huge conversation about this (i know it's alot of forum) but if you search my posts you'll see it. Yes, you need a full rebuild. But it's wayy easier to make a split ring from mild steel (bend and then crimp) or nylon and push it over the shaft and will for all intents and purposes work the same. This requires you to just screw the air can off which takes 1 min or so. One guys did this with a steel ring!   Most of us have no problem with the 42.5 shocks.

Thanks, that's what i was puzzled about. I could get a 165x45 shock, wich is undoubtedly too much.

Are you European ?

Well, i was not asked but i feel addressed, too 
Yes, i am european (German, for further jokes).
But i think it's more about what you want to make out of this bike. If you want a tourer/trailbike, there is indeed no use for a lockout.
But for me, i want a marathon jetbike. I dont want the the suspension to bump when i stand up in the pedals to zoom up an asphalt road or when racing a finish line sprint. I know, that won't make a major difference to my finishing time, but i hate that bumpy feeling. For me, the rear suspension is primarily to enable seated (=efficient) pedaling on easy trails or grass strips. Second, to make downhill riding feel safer.

Do non-european riders use lockouts on UCI marathon races? I don't know.

Anyway. I've ordered the same Fox shock wich is used by most users here. I'll see if i can live without a lockout.

729 € for blue with twist lock
749 € for black with twist lock

I bought a black but there were only a 2 in stock when i paid.

So i got the other one - when i paid, there was 1 in stock 
(Didn't want to disappoint anybody, so i didn't tell in this thread)

Hey all, I just read through this whole thread to help with a FM936 I'm doing. Thanks for all the helpful info!

Quick note for people looking at a SID select or ultimate. Alltricks have the SID ultimate with lockout available for only €730 as part fo their black friday deals:

https://www.alltricks.com/F-11918-fourches/P-1495461-rockshox_sid_ultimate_race_day_29___39___39__remote_fork___boost_15x110_mm___offset_44___blue_2021

@reddi, nice build list. Using the above you could save 150g (based on R2 bike weights) for only €100 extra.

Hi, thanks for that link! Didn't realize that weight significant difference...
Too bad that deal is only for the blue one. Although i like that blue tone, i highly doubt it will fit to the dark candy red frame.
If i could return the fork after receiving the frame, I'd just buy it and give it a try. But since i just ordered the frame this day, there is no doubt it won't be with me within 14 days.
So i'll keep looking for a nice black friday deal on the black one. 730 € would really suit me... 

@Quentin: Yep, the SIDluxe 165x42.5 from Bike24 has no remote

Aww okay. That might be it. Damn!
We'll see.

How difficult is it to travel a rear shock or to change a lockout lever to remote?

Since we are at milligrams. A rim without holes will weight a bit more.
I'll leave to you to compute the weight difference: no-holes vs. holes + rim tape

That was more kind of a quick excuse because i was embarrassed, so don't take it too serious

@reddi: are these carbonbeam rims? They seem extremely light for the size. Curious if people have experience with them.

100% subjectively: I don't go with chinese hubs anymore. DT Swiss 350 (if budget is a concern) or 240 are so reliable, serviceable, and parts are easy to find. On my wheels with novatec hubs my bearings rusted very quickly after a season of gravel and CX.

I've also gone from 6-bolt to centerlock hubs. It's just so much easier to mount / dismount discs when you have to (travel, etc).

Yes, those rims come from carbonbeam. As i weigh 80-85 kg (plus camelbak) and do touring and marathons, I think Rims wich are spec'd for 110 kg riders and "CC, AM, Trail, Enduro" Application should be ok. But it might be a good point, i should do a little research.
I had no issues with novatec hubs so far. Needed a bearing exchange after 3 Years, wich i feel totally fine with.
Centerlock vs. 6-Bolt is a minor question to me, i just like the latter more.

You might also consider adding :

• Stem spacer
• expander / star
• rim tape (30g / wheel)
• sealant (50mL / wheel is not enough i guess)

Hi, you have good eyes
I don't need stem spacers, cockpit shall be as low as possible.
Expander is put together with headset, those are two sets to be bought seperately.
With non-drilled rim bottoms you don't need rim tape But you're right, as am not totally sure on that yet.
and Wolfpack tires are designed to keep the air safely on theyr own (wich makes them a little heavier), so you don't need that much sealant.

now you leaked my build thread. wanted to post it here in the near future. Don't wanted to have too many people seeing what I'm up to.

I really apologize, i didn't think you would mind people seeing what you're doing when posting it into a forum.

I will trust that saying and will also try keep my bike as dry as possible, so the nipples don't see any water.
you could save 40g there

you could save around 60g with extralite grips
you could save a lot with another crank

like others said, dont forget all these small parts. They will also ruin your weight list

Ok, i'm no fan of rainy wheather neither; but worrying about a mountainbike getting wet feels totally wrong to me. I usually clean my bikes with the high pressure cleaner. Maybe i'll have holes in the rim and combine Alu nipples with rim tape, so i can do an inspection after 2 years. Wich would be kind of equal in weight.
Extralite Grips may be light, but don't feel good to me. For now, i was always running ergon lock-on grips. We'll see what can be done there.

Another crank is a good idea. That GX Crankset doesn't look too well anyway.

Focus on the unsprung items: wheels, cassette, rotors and bolts, calipers and bolts. 

For the sprung weight, switch from IPA to red wine and ride everyday.

Haha, indeed i still have 3-4 kg more than i wish to have. But that will be overcome until spring.

I saw that a KCNC or Garbaruk cassette saves a good 100 g, i'll go read some reviews about them.

@reddi: would you do one lockout lever for simultaneous front and rear lockout? Also, if you could share your spreadsheet, that would be super! I am thinking along the same lines as you and would appreciate the inspiration.

I think for a sprint you'd like to have a completely blocked suspension, so having to move two levers is unnecessary effort. Also, i can't imagine where to put two lockout levers at the handlebar with shifter, brake levers, seat post remote and bell. Plus, the Twistloc that comes with the Fork is perfectly suited to block both components simultaneously.
(Actually it will be a little complicated to block both suspensions with one standard Lever that pulls only one cable... )

Current state of my spreadsheet is attached. Adding cable housing made me exceed the 11 kg target  . I wonder where to save some weight with little effort. Any idea?

Those parts with questionmarks are not determinded yet, so price and weight is guessed. I take recommendations
Also, i am thinking about a little wider rims (30 mm inner width instead of these 27 mm) and wider tires. Both would increase my wish to save weight somewhere.

EDIT: Just noticed that ZTTO M2 hubs are non-boost. The corresponding M1 hubs are boost, but come with centerlock. Keep in mind when looking for those hubs.