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Messages - acedeuce802

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76
sales1 at carbonda dot com

77
Enter

78

Edit to ask, which carbonda frame you've got?
I went with the CFR707, got some pics and writeup in the thread here
https://chinertown.com/index.php?topic=2994.90

79
Just chiming in that I'm going through the same thing.  I started with the Lexon mount that looks exactly like that OG Evkin one, it vibrated so much that the plastic insert that holds the Garmin broke in a gravel race.  I ran a 3D printed mount that lasted a while but eventually broke right at the front bolt point, but it lasted a couple hundred miles and didn't vibrate at all.  I revised the design and I'm going to send it out to be printed out of a stronger material than I can print at home.  Looking for an off-the-shelf solution, I've heard the K-edge mount breaks as well.  Silca is real expensive.  Not sure what else is out there.

80
I don't have any real info to add, just that I went through the same thing when I was researching gravel bikes, I just think the Grevil is so cool.  I ended up deciding that there were no brands that are well-loved by ChinerTown that make it, there's no real reviews on the frame, and it's often a bad idea to buy frame that are direct copy of another (because they may not have done Engineering, just copy the outer geometry and thickness, they may not know the actual layup schedule and material spec).  Too much risk for me, so I went for a Carbonda.

81
29er / Re: FM1002 shock mount
« on: August 10, 2022, 03:04:34 PM »
The bottom is trunnion, so the frame will come with bearings in the frame and the bolts, then the shock will come with threaded holes in the body.  Nothing else to purchase for the bottom mount.

82
29er / Re: Carbonda FM909
« on: July 28, 2022, 11:43:25 PM »
A 115-120mm FM909 would be perfect.  I don't think a 120/120mm FM1001 is a good combo, the geometry chart is with a 140mm fork and already has a 78deg seat tube angle.  With a 120mm fork, it'd be close to 79deg, which doesn't match the geo for a 120mm bike well.

83
Just an update, ZTTO offered a warranty replacement on the ratchet ring, but said they couldn't make a shipping label unless I buy something else... wasn't going to use it anyway and was going to keep it as a spare, so I just won't bother.  I was surprised I was able to get the old ratchet ring out with how little spline was left, took a bit of heat and a lot of torque.  I purchased the OE DT ring (HXDXXX00N1131S) and got it back together, all is good!  Comparing the ZTTO ring with the DT ring, the splines on the ZTTO ring are smaller, so a tighter fit with the ratchets.  I've got a few ratchet kits laying around, and the Fonvo 54t ratchet actually gets stuck in the ZTTO ring, but slides freely in the new DT ring.

84
I had the splines on the ratchet drive ring shear off yesterday.  The hub started making a sound when ratcheting, kind of a louder gyrating noise every time it clicked, so basically the same sound as the ratchet normally, but every few seconds it would start to get louder, then a few seconds it would get quieter.  Turned around and headed back to the car to see what was up, hoping it was just running low on grease or something.  Eventually I heard a pop and the cranks could just spin.  The hub-side ratchet was stuck in the hub and I couldn't get it free with the tools in the car, so headed home.  Pried the ratchet out to find all the splines sheared off.  I'm kind of thinking that the splines got too dirty and the ratchet started sticking down in the hub.  If the hub-side ratchet can't spring outwards, then the freehub-side ratchet would get pushed further inwards towards the hub, and maybe the weird sound I was hearing was the freehub-side ratchet making contact with the ratchet drive ring.  I'm thinking that eventually it got pushed so far inwards that maybe the splines from the freehub ratchet started to mesh with the ratchet drive ring?  Making it a fixie for an instant until it broke.

Contacted ZTTO and they are replacing the ratchet drive ring, but I have no idea how I'll get the old one out with stripped splines...

85
The only hardtail I have experience with is a pressfit BB, so I'm no help there.  But I just wanted to say that I've seen enough negative experiences with DIYCarbonBikes that I'd stay far away.

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@acedeuce802
I'm trying to wire up my frameset have you finished wiring your frame yet?
I've done a few internaly routed frames before but this one is different.
I assume the housing from the handlebars are supposed to end in the downtube block (pictured)
But i'm a bit reluctant to let the wires run directly against the carbon in the BB-area, did you use the liner you linked to?
I haven't built up my frame yet, I'm just going to turn it into a trainer bike because of how poor quality it was, I bought a Carbonda CFR707 instead. My frame didn't come with that block. In the bottom of the BB area there were just 2 holes in some carbon that didn't even have enough epoxy around it (so loose fibers) but no cable housing seat or anything.

87
Just a 200 mile update.  So far I've done some mixed adventure rides, 30 mile gravel race, and a fast road ride with others on true road bikes.  I'm still very pleased with the 707! 

During the gravel race, I hit plenty of serious potholes, stuck with the lead pack for the first 8 miles so it was about 8 people wide and no way to avoid them.  I hit some hard enough to break my bottle cage on the seat tube and the down tube bottle fell out.  Frame, fork, seatpost, and bars are still solid.  Averaged 21mph, this bike is probably 2mph faster than my old Monstercross bike.  This isn't my video, just showing the course, it even went through an actual gravel pit! https://www.facebook.com/joe.miles.9484/videos/1424082484697432

Luckily fit is perfect.  I tend to ride smaller drop bikes (but larger MTB's).  I'm 5'10" with ~31" inseam and long arms, yet opted for a medium with 400/80mm bars.  It fits like a 54cm bike, exactly like I wanted.  I think my only two nitpicks have been the levers being mounted just above the sticky paste on the handlebars, so I had them slide down during the race.  Seems to be fixed with some carbon paste and higher torque.  Also, shifter cable friction may be an issue with the tight bends through the headset.  I first built with Shimano SP41 housing and cheap Amazon cable with no lubrication, sometimes the front derailleur would get hung up going down to the small ring, and the rear would sometimes need 2 shifts one direction, and one the other to make a single gear change.  I replaced both cables with Jagwire cables and used Tri-flow in the housings, the front seems perfect now, and I think the rear just needs dialing in cable tension, only have 1 ride since the change.  If I did it again, I would've just saved up for electronic if I wanted to stick with full internal.

88
Did anyone who built up one of these feel the need to use foam tubing to reduce cables rattling within the frame?
I didn't use any foam and I haven't noticed any rattling, I'll try to pay attention on the ride today.  I think that I left the cables long enough (routed fully internal through handlebars) that they kind of stay pushed up against the frame.

89
FYI, I just noticed the ICAN AC388 has bolt on dropouts. I don't see details about having QR dropouts available, but that's the kind of frame that would be convertible. May be worth reaching out to them.

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