Got my medium frame in this weekend, custom paint with RAL5007 and 9016.  The quality is really nice, I'm impressed with the carbon work!

1452g - Medium frame with seat post wedge and cage/mount bolts
566g - Bare fork
115g - Headset, including upper and lower bearing, top cap, compression ring, and ~10mm off additional split spacers
379g - 400x80mm handlebar
172g - Seatpost

Rival 2x11 groupset with GX 2x10 derailleur for clutch (cable routing isn't ideal, but I used an inline adjuster then OT-RS900 cable for more flexibility)
Shimano R7000 11-32 cassette (may go 11-36, had the 32 laying around)
Zrace RX crankset with Sigeyi PM and 46/34 chainrings
SpeedSafe 45mm deep, 29mm outer, 24mm inner wheelset with Pillar Wing 20 spokes and Novatec D411/412 hubs
Vittoria Terreno Dry 700x38c
Bontrager SPD's
Total weight is 19.2 lbs with pedals but no cage

Overall I'm very happy with the bike, but haven't put many miles on it yet.  I think the frame cable routing is really well done, tube-in-tube for the brake hose, plastic tubes prerouted for derailleur cable (I just yanked them and used a magnetic kit), nice routing for front derailleur cable.  I'm a little torn on internal handlebar routing.  I really wasn't too bad to do, the handlebar was much much easier to get cables through than the Lexon GFX handlebar.  I basically loaded up the handlebar with levers and cables/hoses first, and left the derailleur cables long.  Then I put that on the bike, pushed all the cables through, and used a magnetic cable routing kit to help.  Then trim shifter cable at both ends, and brake hose at the caliper end.  The problem is that you can't pull the handlebar more than 40mm upwards or so, because the front brake hose nut wouldn't go through the internal routing, so if you needed to replace a shifter housing, there's a good chance you'd have to cut both brake hoses, pull the handlebar all the way off, replace housing, then reinstall and rebleed everything.  However, I'm just hoping nothing needs maintenance for a long time, the lack of cables is super clean and cool looking.  Also didn't consider that with a SRAM front derailleur and full internal routing, there's no where to put a barrel adjuster, so cable tension is just done by pulling tight.

I think he's asking if the bearings fit properly on the second fork they sent you. The one with the incorrect paint job. Or did you need a different bearing?

Yeah that's what I was curious about. Because the installed pic of the painted fork on the matte frame looks like there's still a decent gap between the chamfer and the lower bearing.

Mine is a 70mm

Now I've got 2 questions. 

I'd like your opinions on the lower bearing seat on the fork.  Pearl posted about their experience here: http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3591.0.html
My bearing seat doesn't look near as bad as pearl's original fork (regarding the chamfer height, bearing height, and thus fork/frame gap), it seems more smooth in general, but does have the big sanding marks/scratches around the cable entry.  Looking at pearl's fork/frame gap on the new fork on page 3 of the above linked thread, mine looks the same as that.

I've also never routed a road bike frame internally, I've only done external road bikes or internal 1x MTB's with full cable inner.  I'm running a SRAM front derailleur, so the cable housing has to stop inside the frame.  There doesn't seem to be any molded parts to seat the cable housing in the frame, just a channel under the BB for housing to go.  Does the cable housing just go up until the hole at the channel under the BB, bare cable runs through the channel and up through the seat tube hole?  Seems that would work, I was just expecting some sort of housing ferrule molding or something, not just a hole that the housing would sit up against.

Also the way the cable exits the hole in the seat tube, there's not enough clearance for the cable to exit without touching the frame.  Is it okay if I just use the cable liner like this?  The cable liner would have kind of a bend to it, but at least it wouldn't be cable rubbing carbon.

Feel free to let me know if anyone wants any other closeup pictures.

I've got Formula Cura brakes on 740mm bars, 100mm SID fork, and run my hoses pretty tight to the head tube. They measure 28" front and 59.5" rear.

Does anybody have any long term experience with the YBN chains that come with Chiner drivetrains, or the ones you can buy on Aliexpress for $20?  I've also seen that YBN makes chains for ZTTO, which are cheap on eBay.  Zero Friction Cycling's favorite chains are YBN, and they start at $90 on their website (that may be Australian dollars), or they are $50+ on Amazon.  Are these the same chains?  Is the $20 version a fake, or a cheaper variant than what's sold elsewhere?  Are retailers just taking advantage of a good chain and the bike part shortage, and up-charging by 3-4x?  I've got a Sensah groupset coming in with YBN chain, so I'll be curious to try to find some pictures on reputable retailers websites to see if all the markings match.

An excerpt from chain wear testing article: "For 11-speed chains, Kerin’s overall favourite is still YBN. “It is typically within around half a watt of the fastest chains but without the ‘worn’ starting point, while its hardened rollers mean wear-rate tracking with a regular chain wear checker is accurate,” he said. “The result is around a 50% longer lifespan versus Shimano.”"

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002033889791.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.435b67ceZAByne&algo_pvid=9c0f94f7-3b0d-40e8-9dc5-846a31198912&algo_exp_id=9c0f94f7-3b0d-40e8-9dc5-846a31198912-5&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000018483831616%22%7D&pdp_pi=-1%3B20.5%3B-1%3B-1%40salePrice%3BUSD%3Bsearch-mainSearch

https://www.ebay.com/itm/312792999687

https://www.amazon.com/YBN-Speed-Chain-Shimano-Campagnolo/dp/B07CGKYPGZ

https://zerofrictioncycling.com.au/product/11-speed-chain/

https://cyclingtips.com/2019/12/the-best-bicycle-chain-durability-and-efficiency-tested/

Anyone else having trouble looking at those pics on a monitor?  They are so bloody big I see about 1 tenth of a pic on the screen at a time. (22" monitor)

Image sizing seems really bad in general on this site.  I usually right click photos and open in a new tab (in Chrome) and then it'll auto scale well.

Two things I can think of.  It's obviously less pretty than fully integrated (a 3D printed spacer that covered the holes in the headset would be cool).  You wouldn't want water to get in because that would lead directly into the lower headset bearing.  I think the FSA ACR headset that's made for non-integrated cockpits uses rubber seals.

Sorry to hear that it's not the paint that you requested.