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Messages - user757

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1
Last Friday, to my great surprise, the frame was delivered.

Unfortunately the packaging is very/too simple, and the box arrived quite damaged.... an aspect to be reviewed and improved in my opinion.

I noticed an imperfection on the seat tube where the seat post is inserted (see circle in photo).... right where the box is cut, but Spcycle told me that it was a mistake by the worker who did not fill it with resin.

A defect that can be solved by painting the frame and that does not involve any risk of breakage or safety.

The drainage holes and the mechanical gear cable are not finished well (I cut myself while running my finger through them).... I will have to smooth them out before painting.

The rest seems to be fine, even if I haven't had time to check everything properly this weekend.
I definitely got cut and some carbon fiber splinters while trying to fish some line through the bottom bracket area.

2
Did you protect the battery cable frame holes at all, or just the grease and rubber cement on the cable-port at the derailleurs? And I'm guessing you put the grease on first, then seal it up with the rubber cement?
Finally the torque wrench arrived. I'm torquing up the seat post clamp, and even with the wrench set to only 5 N-m (SL8 recommends 6.2 N-m), it feels high torque to me. Am I just being scared and should trust the torque wrench was QC'ed properly? Or should it feel like a weak turn of the wrench?

3
I'm considering it. I'll maybe hang onto it for a minute within the return window I started and see if stock comes back at one of the big ali sellers.

I already have a spare mag charging cable as well as a spare RD battery wire. If I decide to keep it, I might order a third mag charging cable since they seem to have phases it out and it might disappear from the face of the planet in a very short time.
May have to wait for some of the tariff scare tactics to be resolved before good prices can be had again? Clearly T went bigly to force a negotiation, but has anyone noticed ali prices up big yet? If it's 54% added on, that changes the value proposition.

4
I haven't been on my R088 for a week, due to riding either my gravel bike or my other road frame! The way I have it setup, it climbs like a champ! Also the new thru axle feels solid, though to be honest I didn't notice any wheel issues before I discovered the issue with the original TA! I'm thinking of swapping the tires out for some 30c for better road durability, but I love climbing with 25c tires!

A few photos from today's ride.  :)
Did you protect the battery cable frame holes at all, or just the grease and rubber cement on the cable-port at the derailleurs? And I'm guessing you put the grease on first, then seal it up with the rubber cement?

5
Are they in this out of stock phase because they're phasing out the old version and ramping up the new one?

6
I didn't tie mine to the seat post, I used the ribbon only to pull it out of the seat tube. The ribbon makes it so you can pull the battery out with no hassle. Without the ribbon, I had to use a wire clothes hanger to push it out from the bottom bracket! :D

Also just to add more details about my procedure. I'd avoid any tape on the ER9/X battery holder because the seat tube is so tight. The only thing I added was rubber cement (with time to dry) after placing the battery cables into the battery holders for extra security. Once dried it adds a bit of bonding and it's easy to remove. I'm not fond of electrical tape, because after a prolonged period of time the adhesive gets gooey.

I had to cut my seat tube because it was too high with the battery installed. Without the battery I was able to adjust the height to size. If you have to cut the seat tube, I would cut conservatively until you get it down to the right height. I would also use fine grit sand paper after cutting to smooth out the edges.
How'd you keep the ribbon near the top of the seat post? Taped to the frame at the top?

7
Did you guys use carbon paste for your seat post to keep it in place? Some quick tests pushing on it with the little wedge thingy in there and it seems to slip with some pressure. No torque wrench yet though so uncertain how right it is, just going off feel

8
Unsure what the issue is--can you explain?

9
Fortunately Ace Hardware had just what I was looking for. An 8mm length screw was just right. It wasn't painted so I even spray painted it black to match.
Only thing is the two FD attachment plate bosses are unevenly placed into the frame, so the lower one is further in such that it doesn't matter what screw is in that slot, the boss blocks the battery holder from sliding further regardless just as the bottle cage bosses do. Oh well, at least I gained a couple cm or so of distance.
The good thing with this seat post-seat tube setup is since it's so tight, I'm guessing slippage is less likely.
Given how uneven the two FD plate bosses are, I wouldn't be surprised if other frames are fine with no blockage.
Still have to wait until a few tools and supplies arrive before I continue with the build.

10
Did you try sliding the battery holder around the cage bolts? It has to go in at a certain angle, but once you do that it goes all the way to the bottom. The ribbon string will allow you to pull it out for maintenance. If your seat post is still too long, cutting it isn't a big deal. It's just like cutting a fork steerer. Also I believe the R088 uses the same shape seat post as the SL8, there are quite a few aftermarket seat post on AliEx if you just want to get a shorter one and avoid cutting.
Ya, it definitely needs that particular screw backed out to allow it down further. I even held the bike angled to let gravity pull the battery holder away from the bolt, no help. Got a tip to check Ace hardware for bolts/screws.
I noticed you wrote bottle cage screws before... Maybe it was a mistype, but it's the FD screws further down causing the issue (the bottle cage screws are a different, bigger size). Can't take an adequate picture inside the frame with my camera for obvious reasons, but you can easily see it looking down the frame.  The bottle cage screws don't protrude (at least with my frame) but the FD plate screws do; you can see them go into the frame void in the last 3 or so mm of travel. So if I can get an M2.5 screw that's about 10mm, that'd be the optimal screw for this frame.
Also I should add that I took out the top bottle cage screw and it made no difference to insertion depth. Also used a paperclip through that hole to try to guide the battery holder away and down, no help.

11
These are the bottle cage screws I'm using with no issue. i can insert and remove my ER9 battery holder with no issue.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806670442432.html

On the bright side you already have another frameset owner who has pioneered this installation! When I was trying to figuring all of this out, I was about to give up and just order a Wheeltop EDS TX groupset!  ;D
I suppose the easiest thing would be to just cut the seat post as you did. Gonna make that the last resort if there's not enough space with proper saddle height.
Just used the vernier calipers to get accurate measurements on the bolt. Haven't searched for these hex bolts in store before--anyone think Home Depot/Lowe's will carry a huge selection of these to find the right one?
Good source at this link, but would rather not wait for shipping: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804346937100.html?sourceType=1&spm=a2g0o.wish-manage-home.0.0&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt

12
Turns out it's the FD attachment plate screws that are blocking further insertion of the battery holder. If I back the top screw out, the seat post slides further down.
Can't find any matching but shorter screws in my collection. I could try shortening these particular screws as a lot of it is unused into the frame.
If only I knew what size and thread pitch these were I could look up some alternatives...

13
We'll, this is the max insertion I can get with my setup and no cutting of the seat post. I imagine it'd be bad to keep it like this with the battery nestled against the two frame bolts. In case the seat post started slipping, it'd put pressure on the bolts and the battery. I imagine one of those things might not like body weight force in it.
Unsure yet what my ideal saddle height will be; hopefully a cm or so higher than this!

14
Anyone know if ER9 RD is supposed to have a charging port? The FD clearly has a USB C port, but is the RD supposed to as well, or does all recharging occur thru the FD?

15
Feel free to read some of my earlier posts on this thread in regards to using the ER9 and fitting the battery holder in the R088. My solution was tying 2 long pieces of ribbon string on each end of the ER9 battery holder. Using ribbon string works the best because it stays buoyant with the string sliding straight into the seat post when set in place. I also used the mechanical hole for the FD battery cable since it was easier to position the cables towards the bottom bracket making it easier to fish out the battery from the seat tube for any maintenance issues. It was also necessary to trim the seat post a few centimeters to fit both the seat post and ER9 battery at least for my size 52cm frame. The seat tube is snug enough that the battery doesn't move, my seat post is at the right height and the battery can be pulled out easily with no problems.

Private message me if you need any help!  ;)

FYI - This is the message I wrote for the DEFINITIVE way to fit an ER9 battery into the R088 frameset!

https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5562.msg72347.html#msg72347
Here what I cooked up along those same lines. Haven't had a chance to try fitting it into the frame yet. Hopefully it fits without having to cut my 380mm seat post on my 54cm frame. I might also add some electrical tape for added security.

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