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Messages - Funks

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It's not only these guys - I ordered some stuff from ZTTO (official store) as well on Ali Express and once it got state side - went into La la land with USPS.

I'm not sure if they are putting in the wrong zip codes, writing it too small, and basically it's getting screwed up when sorted by the USPS machines.

Mine was supposed to be delivered in california but for some reason, it kept heading eastward from California - lol.

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29er / Re: The shiney new AM831 Group Buy thread!
« on: July 03, 2021, 04:05:17 PM »
Is this still ongoing?  Looking for a L frame and want to get in on it (USA).

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Nice! What bearing press/kit do you use?

RRP (RapidRacerProducts) Bearing Press, and the Proper Drifts (sold separately).

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Trying out the ZTTO Thread Together Press Fit bottom bracket.   Proactively replaced the bearings with some Japanese ones - we’ll see how long it lasts.

Aluminum shell machining looks great, the bearing has an ID of 25mm (instead of 24mm) so a plastic shim / spacer is used (similar to what Shimano does with their press-fit BB's).  Looks like it's made out of ABS plastic, probably gonna disintegrate over time.   Would have been nice if they made it out of Delrin instead (as that would have been tough, and will pretty much last a lifetime).  Bearings used are 6805-2RS (25mm bore, 37mm OD, 7mm width).

The others i've tried (Wheels Mfg BB86-OUT, and the Origin 8 Revolvr ) uses a bearing with a 24mm ID so no shim required (crank spindle contacts the Id of the bearing).  Bearing used are MR2437 ( 24mm bore, 37mm OD, 7mm width).   That direct contact though, causes the spindle to wear (as you can see from my crank, the shiny part).

Pretty easy to replace the bearings on these things as long as you got the proper tools.   If one wanted to get rid of the plastic shim/spacer and make it direct contact, just replace the bearings on the ZTTO with MR2437 bearings, then buy the Wheels MFG Shim Spacer Pack (SHIM-SPACER-PK)


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@Funks Do you think the springs are what led to your star ratchets failing?

Don't really know why the teeth sheared, maybe it's the springs?  (those are cheap though at 3$ each).   Maybe I put on too much DT Swiss Grease (didn't think so)?   Maybe it's the metallurgy of the star ratchets ZTTO sells?  Or maybe 54T just might not be reliable enough for someone that weigs 215 lbs.

Either way, the DT Swiss 54T ratchet that I have been holding up so far on the M1.   I do carry the genuine 24T (best bang for the back for a genuine star ratchet as it comes with the special grease as well, and 2 springs) one in my bag though as I don't fully trust these 54T ratchets (regardless of them being genuine DT swiss or a clone).

I'm building two more wheel sets with these hubs (one 29er, and another 27.5), and will also re-lace my XC bike's wheel with the ZTTO DR190 which has the same guts as the M1s (for older, non boost bikes, J-Bend, ISO 6 bolt disc).   They are all getting bearing replacements, spring replacements, metal ring nut replacement, and finally the 36T clone ratchets (from ZTTO or otherwise).    Will post in the future how they hold up.

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Be careful with 6903-2RS bearings as the standards says they are 17x30x7.   The 18307 are 18x30x7  The question is, why does the rubber seals on genuine DT Swiss 18307 bearings on them say 6903?   Who knows.   Good luck trying to use a real 6903-2RS bearing (17mm bore) and making it fit correctly on an an axle that needs 18mm bore.

As for not buying a DT Swiss 350?   Well, I got the ZTTO M1's for about 95$ shipped.  With better bearings, you are looking at (+57$), the DT Swiss Metal Ring NUT (+10$).  162$ (front and rear set) ain't bad at all specially if you can get the M1 with the 36T ratchet from ZTTO.    Pretty sure that's half the price of a DT Swiss 350 pair while being as light as the 240.   Money saved can be used to buy actual tools to service the hubs.   

The parts that will break on this hub (ratchets, bearings, hub driver) are all replaceable with DT Swiss 240, 350 components and those are available at local bike shops which is what piqued my interest.  Good luck trying to find replacement pawls, parts, and etc for other type of hubs out there when something breaks on your bike and you really want to get back riding the next day.

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Personally, if I were to build future wheel sets with these guys, I'd proactively replace the bearings, the ring nut with the DT Swiss Metal version (HXDXXX00N1131S) 7$, and replace the star ratchet springs as well (2x of HXDXXX00N1087S) about 3$ each, if you are using ZTTO's star ratchet.   Lastly, see if you can snag these with the 36T ratchet instead of the 54T.   Or best yet, snag the DT Swiss 24T Star Ratchet kit (HWTXXX00NSKTFS) which comes with new springs, and the special grease for 44$.

as for bearings

It uses 2x 18307-2RS bearings up front hub (DT Swiss sells replacements - HSBXXX00N2148S).   DT Swiss calls these 6903-2RS but they aren't.   Real 6903-2RS bearings are 17x30x7, not 18x30x7.

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Some feedback on this.   Took it for my first ride today, tried to put some power down goingnuphill with the hubs and the star ratchet broke.   Maybe I put on too much DT Swiss Grease on the mating surface when I assembled it?  Maybe the steel used on the star ratchets ain't up to snuff for the amount of teeth?   Anyways, once it slipped, looks like the teeth got damaged and it didn't want to engage anymore.

Had to hunt down a DT Swiss Genuine 54T Star Ratchet (pain in the ass to find in stock at our local bike shop) service kit (117$ ouch), and installed it. Climbed one of our local hills and it looks like it's holding just fine.

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Bearings:

The Rear Hub Driver (Microspline) uses 2x - 6802-2RS bearings.
The Rear Hub uses 2x - 6902-2RS bearings.
The Front Hub uses 2x - 18307-2RS bearings  (for DT Swiss Bearings: HSBXXX00N2148S)

I built a wheelset using these hubs, they look great so far but replaced the bearings proactively (Japanese Bearings, EZO, or IJK).  I used DT Swiss Spoke Calculator (which was spot on for these as well when I chose DT 240S Straight Pull, 28H for the front hub) to calculate spoke lengths.

Coupled this hub with the DT Swiss EX511 Rims (29er, 28H), Sapim CX-Sprint Spokes, and DT Swiss Squorx Pro Brass Nipples (ProLock).   If I were to do it again, I'd go with the SAPIM Double Square Brass nipples instead.   The Squorx Pro Brass nipples I got are colored black, I'm assuming the coating DT Swiss used added some thickness to the nipples and it was a pain to get the DT Swiss Squorx Nipple Driver to mate with some of the nipples properly.

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