Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - wintermute

Pages: [1] 2 3
1
That is really crazy and unfortunate.  Glad you’re okay.  I’ve been riding my 24mm Lexon cranks pretty much daily.  No issues.  I remember watching a Trace Velo episode where he had a cheap pair of cranks that broke in the same place your’s did.

My biggest gripe with the Lexon cranks is that either their chainrings or spiders are out of spec. I have had non-stop issues with a oscillating chainrings causing minor cage rub on the FD. After switching to a Stone spider and Stone chainrings I was able to eliminate the oscillation.  This was also an issue with my 29mm Lexon cranks.

I may cave and order some Elilees or Cyberei later this year. Your post gives pause about continuing ride on them for safety reasons.


FWIW, I have removed and installed my Lexon cranks multiple times.

I don't know about you, but removing the cranks always felt unpleasant - there was a nasty creak/squeak as the bolt forced itself against the outer cover to pull the crank off.

Frustratingly I suspect Lexon will ignore my messages about this - because I already had a dispute with them over the spacing and spider. Whatever happens, I won't be going back to the system. I got them on the highest sale alongside a code and a refund that made them probably only £120ish total. A replacement pair is over £275. A Cybrei is close to £400.

Red E1's can be had for 299. The only issue would be if you had a frame that couldn't take DUB bearings.

2
So I feel like I should make a post on here about this.

Third ride, my lexon 24mm cranks failed catastrophically.

The bolt that holds the crank arm on the left arm sheared off at the head whilst riding; the crank arm came away still attached to my foot. I'm lucky I'm still here. The bolt is clearly made of cheap aluminium (when you hold it in your hand it's way too light).

I suggest everyone checks this bolt for stress risers or fatigue. Similarly, be careful with the torque. It says capable of 45nm. I torqued to 40 and that felt like a lot - obviously too much for this.


4
After a few months of this it's a blood nightmare. The crank arms on the 24mm keep coming loose and clicking and fucking up bottom brackets.

I've had to retorque them maybe 15 times in three months.

5
This is still more expensive for me than the Lexon/Ryet branded one on Ali.

What advantages does this offer? No 24mm yet?


6
So I have gotten two offers from Peter:

1275g - 58mm rare and 50front
D50CU-28 T1100 rims 24/24H UD paintless, in-house hubs 36T rachets enduro steel bearings center lock straight pull for 100*12/142*12 with Shimano HG driver, Pillar 1420 spokes, Pillar aluminum nipples

1221g and 58rare and 50front:
D50CU-28 T1100 rims 21/21H UD paintless, In-house black or titanium color hubs 21/21H side entry hubs for carbon spokes 54T rachets TPI ceramic bearings center lock straight pull for 100*12/142*12 with Shimano HG driver, carbon spokes with nipples

Any changes I should consider and is it worth going Carbon spokes vs Pillar 1420 spokes?

I can't work out how the maths works out there.

Carbon spokes are c.2.6g and pillar aero are c.4.5g.

With 20h vs 24h there should be at least 90-100g difference?

7
Hi friend, I have brought the latest information.

There is a small amount of stock available for the M size mechanical version. I will update the link here later. Please order according to the available stock.
There is also a small amount of stock available for the L size mechanical version. Please order according to the available stock.

I also brought the weight of each size.
At the same time, I will update the ARB02 cable routing video and the picture display of the installation of the computer mount on Instagram.
Please move to Instagram for more pictures later.

- For bulk orders, please try to contact me through email and AliExpress store. I will receive information from other places more slowly.
Best regards
kitty

Do you have any adapters / risers to fit these to round bars for road / gravel bikes?

8
One person here is running a 26mm internal width rim and a 30 mm tire. Any chart I seen recommends a 35mm tire. At the end of the day people will do what they want and blame the product for their choices.

Pretty sure ETRTO or whatever is 5mm greater than rim width.

Obviously, the issue here is finding a 32mm tyre that doesn't blow out beyond 105%.

9
I have a mixed 7d - it's advertised as flat but it's quite curved actually.

I'd like to try the rpahanti version.

I'll buy a 5d to see if that's a bit more flat (ie I can rotate my pelvis on it better).

My other saddles on other bikes are 3x Pro Stealth Carbons (generally v workable but a bit wide and so rubs when you roll forwards, which forces you right to the front of the saddle as it's V shaped not T shaped), 1x Dimension Nack (too narrow at front, only one position), 1x Scratch M5 (front is too narrow, no PAS).

I'd like a Nago EVO R4 or Flite flow to compare.

10
Could you share some photos of your wheels? Am interested how UD paintless glossy looks like on these.

I asked for simple small logos with ud paintless glossy.

I've always thought that the matte carbon look just has a cheap open mould feel to it. I get it's the lightest option. The finish is really quite nice though on these.

My main worry is of course that they just won't survive the first rough road surface I hit nor will they survive the gravel racing I have planned. That and I won't be able to get a 30c tyre to meet rule of 105.

However, they were competing for my money with some LB Turbo 50's. To get the turbo 50's competitive in weight meant alpina hyperlight spokes and dt 180 hubs. That was 1980USD shipped (and that was at black friday prices, normally more like 2100). These were 870USD shipped.

11
Just another data point - my DC50U's on 20H 5mm carbon spokes and a Shimano freehub came in at 1180g, so a bit heavier than others.

Box a bit smashed up but the wheels were fine and ok. Seem true, haven't tested spoke tensions or ridden yet.

This was for UD paintless glossy though, so people buying without a coating on may save 10-15g.

12
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: LEXON Road Carbon Crankset
« on: January 16, 2025, 04:03:24 PM »
Completed my build a few days ago.  For the record I have Lexon 29mm DUB cranks on an other bike (the version with the purple logo).  I admit these do have a longish spindle for 24mm Shimano style BBs.  With tightening everything down, I have about 3mm of play on my T47 BB.  I ran a 1.5mm of Wheels MFG spacers on the NDS and 1mm on the DS. I do not recommend using the supplied spacers as they are not very consistent.  Chain line seems to be right. 

Reason for purchasing Lexon is obviously the price.  I got my 24mm cranks with chainrings for about 300.00USD.  I got my DUB cranks for 180.00.  Considering the fact that I was about to buy Elilee cranks for 450.00+shipping w/o chainrings during 11.11, Lexon seems like a no-brainer gamble, IMO.

MAJOR ISSUE:  Replace the spider immediately or do not buy Lexon cranks.  Both of my Lexon cranks had an out of spec spider. I went thru all the trouble shooting with my DUB crank and ended up just making adjustments to the FD to deal with it (not the right answer).  Issue is that one of the arms on the spider is out of tolerance and causes a 1-1.5mm deviation in the chainring.  It occilates and will hit the FD cage ever so slightly.  My solution: replace the stock spider with a Stone spider (Eastons won’t work).  It was an immediate fix.  Problem is now you just added 44.00 to your total cost of new cranks. 

In the future I will not recommend these cranks unless you are willing to spend extra and play with the clearance issues.  (q factor is a non-issue for my fit)

I have a local tool and die shop that does small jobs.  In the future I may see if they can turn down the spindle by 1.5mm on both ends.  Right now, everything is working great, so no need yet.

Is there a reason you didn't try (or nobody else has tried) the official Easton 2x 110BCD spider?

https://www.silverfish-uk.com/products/ea8022669_easton-spider-cinch-asymmetric-4-bolt-110mm-bcd



It's half the price of the aliexpress versions for an OEM?

13
Rule of 105 is horseshit, it's the closest to useful at 0 yaw and even then it's not accurate. As soon as you start adding any yaw, it breaks down completely

Saying it breaks down completely is even more facetious than saying if don't abide to the 0.1mil you may as well run box sections.

So you think brr drum tests are meaningless because 'nOt ReEl LiFe'.  ;D

14
The weights are so light - I do worry that we're suffering Keith bontragers proclamation about light cheap and strong.

Loads of exploding farsports rims hitting normal potholes and bumpy road riding or gravel riding - xmc confident their rims are stronger? T1100.is very stiff and light but not very flexible / resilient


Or do they think that was because of overtensioned carbon spokes?

15
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: LEXON Road Carbon Crankset
« on: January 07, 2025, 02:38:27 AM »
Interesting. How much % if you don’t mind me asking.

Also, thanks for your instruction. Why do you say 93 if your measured width was about 96?(is this wrt to the ideal 83?)

Because 93 is what it's meant to be according to lexon. I'm just giving you an example so that you can work it out for yourself as a starting point. You may need to Vernier caliper your cranks and your BB.

Two other fuckabouts with this crank.

1. Like above, my spider is not true and oscillates. It doesn't sound as bad as 1.5mm, but it is enough to notice. That said, I think part of this is about the BCD of the holes being out of spec and warping the chainring when it's tightened up. It was almost impossible to get my Shimano rings onto it and I had to use the bolts to pull the rings into place.

2. Whilst the q factor is huge due to all of the extra spacing (and frustratingly the recessed pedal threads require spacers for assiomas making it all worse) the actual spider mount chainline with a 1.5mm ds spacer is closer to the frame than a Shimano crank. This means that my 50 outer ring actually has gouged a fine line in the chain stay due to a combination of this and the oscillation.

Joys.

Pages: [1] 2 3