LEXON Road Carbon Crankset

[biceryder]

good bottom bracket should has manual and come to you with a few spacer. On manual everything is expanded. I ordered crank but not haven't installed yet. In attachment instruction from my manual.

Exactly this.  My BB came with a similar chart.  For Shimano road cranks it recommended no spacers.  If I added 2mm of spacers on each side that was recommended for DUB road wide cranks.

[biceryder]

Would you recommend it for 24mm version + the powermeter? I am assembling new bike, as the previous one it has BB86, I was running 30mm spindle in it and it is clearly bad, so for now I am transferring to cheap 3-bolt interface 24mm spindle crankset where I could accomodate my p2max, but considering some lighter 24mm options as a future upgrade.
Usually you check for distance from the centre of the bike and check for lateral play.

I don’t have a good answer for you.  I have a power meter pedals. 

[Da11as]

I have the 24m version with xcadey spider power meter, and there is no problems with alignment or anything.

What's your BB?

[wintermute]

But how do I know that I need more spacers? Or I have too many installed?

(93mm - (your measured BB external width) )/2 each side, remembering the preload ring counts for 0.5mm.

My BB width (outside of cup to outside of cup) was 90mm with a ht2 BB. So 93-90=3. I put 1.5 ds, 1 NDS, then nipped 0.5 with the preload ring.

Fwiw, I kept them and got a partial for the false advertising of the spindle length. I'll use them on a gravel bike.

And yes my spider is out of true, although not so bad it contacts the mech cage so it'll just wear out the chainrings if I don't replace it.

[biceryder]

(93mm - (your measured BB external width) )/2 each side, remembering the preload ring counts for 0.5mm.

My BB width (outside of cup to outside of cup) was 90mm with a ht2 BB. So 93-90=3. I put 1.5 ds, 1 NDS, then nipped 0.5 with the preload ring.

Fwiw, I kept them and got a partial for the false advertising of the spindle length.

And yes my spider is out of true, although not so bad it contacts the mech cage so it'll just wear out the chainrings if I don't replace it.

Wintermute, I’m down to 1.5mm in spacers on each side after replacing the spider.  Two spiders out of true, on two seperate cranksets.  Totally worth replacing with a Stone spider.  Did a quick 1hr ride the other day after replacing the spider.  Absolutely made me feel better about the purchase.

[Tines]

(93mm - (your measured BB external width) )/2 each side, remembering the preload ring counts for 0.5mm.

My BB width (outside of cup to outside of cup) was 90mm with a ht2 BB. So 93-90=3. I put 1.5 ds, 1 NDS, then nipped 0.5 with the preload ring.

Fwiw, I kept them and got a partial for the false advertising of the spindle length. I'll use them on a gravel bike.

And yes my spider is out of true, although not so bad it contacts the mech cage so it'll just wear out the chainrings if I don't replace it.

Interesting. How much % if you don’t mind me asking.

Also, thanks for your instruction. Why do you say 93 if your measured width was about 96?(is this wrt to the ideal 83?)

[wintermute]

Interesting. How much % if you don’t mind me asking.

Also, thanks for your instruction. Why do you say 93 if your measured width was about 96?(is this wrt to the ideal 83?)

Because 93 is what it's meant to be according to lexon. I'm just giving you an example so that you can work it out for yourself as a starting point. You may need to Vernier caliper your cranks and your BB.

Two other fuckabouts with this crank.

1. Like above, my spider is not true and oscillates. It doesn't sound as bad as 1.5mm, but it is enough to notice. That said, I think part of this is about the BCD of the holes being out of spec and warping the chainring when it's tightened up. It was almost impossible to get my Shimano rings onto it and I had to use the bolts to pull the rings into place.

2. Whilst the q factor is huge due to all of the extra spacing (and frustratingly the recessed pedal threads require spacers for assiomas making it all worse) the actual spider mount chainline with a 1.5mm ds spacer is closer to the frame than a Shimano crank. This means that my 50 outer ring actually has gouged a fine line in the chain stay due to a combination of this and the oscillation.

Joys.

[mazzafish]

Hi all - in the process of upgrading / lightening my gravel build I came across this crankset (especially because of the shorter crank arms). I currently run a GRX FC-RX610 1x12 setup on a Caad SuperX 2019 (BB Shell 83mm) using wheels mfg reducer for 30 -> 24mm compatibility

I am wondering if these cranks would work at all, especially considering the spindle length issue mentioned previously. Q-factor for them are the same, but chainline for the GRX is 5.2 mm wider. Any thoughts or previous experiences would be appreciated!

[radrick_91]

Hello everyone,
First of all, thanks for the helpful comments. I have just ordered a Lexon crank, 29mm DUB and 170mm.

Along with a Power2max (P2M) it fits really good. My frame has a BSA bottom bracket and I have a Moquai BB with ceramic bearings. A 3mm spacer on the drive side (recommended in the BB manual) and the crank fits perfectly. Chainline and shifting performance seems good, but so far only tested on the indoor trainer.

Tip: I bought the crank from the Lexon Ebay store and not from Aliexpress. It was a much cheaper alternative, at least for shipping to Germany - maybe do a cross check to save a bit.

[Da11as]

Hello everyone,
First of all, thanks for the helpful comments. I have just ordered a Lexon crank, 29mm DUB and 170mm.

Along with a Power2max (P2M) it fits really good. My frame has a BSA bottom bracket and I have a Moquai BB with ceramic bearings. A 3mm spacer on the drive side (recommended in the BB manual) and the crank fits perfectly. Chainline and shifting performance seems good, but so far only tested on the indoor trainer.

What P2Max spider you have? For Easton?

Hi all - in the process of upgrading / lightening my gravel build I came across this crankset (especially because of the shorter crank arms). I currently run a GRX FC-RX610 1x12 setup on a Caad SuperX 2019 (BB Shell 83mm) using wheels mfg reducer for 30 -> 24mm compatibility

I am wondering if these cranks would work at all, especially considering the spindle length issue mentioned previously. Q-factor for them are the same, but chainline for the GRX is 5.2 mm wider. Any thoughts or previous experiences would be appreciated!

Do you plan to use this cranks as 1x? If yes, this will work fine, in worst case you can also extend the chainline by using 1x-specific chainring bolts or spacers.

[wintermute]

Completed my build a few days ago.  For the record I have Lexon 29mm DUB cranks on an other bike (the version with the purple logo).  I admit these do have a longish spindle for 24mm Shimano style BBs.  With tightening everything down, I have about 3mm of play on my T47 BB.  I ran a 1.5mm of Wheels MFG spacers on the NDS and 1mm on the DS. I do not recommend using the supplied spacers as they are not very consistent.  Chain line seems to be right. 

Reason for purchasing Lexon is obviously the price.  I got my 24mm cranks with chainrings for about 300.00USD.  I got my DUB cranks for 180.00.  Considering the fact that I was about to buy Elilee cranks for 450.00+shipping w/o chainrings during 11.11, Lexon seems like a no-brainer gamble, IMO.

MAJOR ISSUE:  Replace the spider immediately or do not buy Lexon cranks.  Both of my Lexon cranks had an out of spec spider. I went thru all the trouble shooting with my DUB crank and ended up just making adjustments to the FD to deal with it (not the right answer).  Issue is that one of the arms on the spider is out of tolerance and causes a 1-1.5mm deviation in the chainring.  It occilates and will hit the FD cage ever so slightly.  My solution: replace the stock spider with a Stone spider (Eastons won’t work).  It was an immediate fix.  Problem is now you just added 44.00 to your total cost of new cranks. 

In the future I will not recommend these cranks unless you are willing to spend extra and play with the clearance issues.  (q factor is a non-issue for my fit)

I have a local tool and die shop that does small jobs.  In the future I may see if they can turn down the spindle by 1.5mm on both ends.  Right now, everything is working great, so no need yet.

Is there a reason you didn't try (or nobody else has tried) the official Easton 2x 110BCD spider?

https://www.silverfish-uk.com/products/ea8022669_easton-spider-cinch-asymmetric-4-bolt-110mm-bcd



It's half the price of the aliexpress versions for an OEM?

[c.etzo]

not sure it fits on lexon crankarm

[biceryder]

I tried an Easton spider back in the summer.  They are not compatible with the Lexon cranks.

[radrick_91]

What P2Max spider you have? For Easton?

Exactly, a P2M with Easton interface. Model: NGeco Road Easton Powermeter

[kvnp]

Stone released a new spider 110BCD that you can get for $30 on Ali. It fits pretty well in comparison to the one that Lexon provides.