Hi, first time poster on the forum here. I have been reading here for a while and got tempted to make a gravel bike. Parts and frame are ordered, so a good day to sign up here and get involved. I’m a 193cm tall and around 100 kilo, I have been riding mountain bikes for a few years but need something a bit more speedy. This build will be used for commutes on tarmac and gravel.
This is my first build, so I might have done some dumb choices or forgotten something important, but hopefully my

Aero Grav XL, +2 cm setback, 12cm stem (none integrated), 440mm  bar.
Senicx PR3 Gravel Bike Crankset 40T chainring 175mm Crank 10/11S Speed 24MM
Senicx T47-85.5-24R-Ceramic botom bracket
Wheeltop EDS GEX groupset
YBN 12 speed chain
Elitewheels Gravel wheels
Shimano RT86 160mm am 180mm rotors
ZTTO HG 12s 11-50 ULT SR cassette
Maxis Rambler 45C tires

Internal frame housing damper
Bartape
Carbon paste
Extra spacers for stem.
Cables and cable hosing
Grease
Tubeless valves and sealant
Pedals
Saddle

I would like to have mudguards but unsure what to get. If anyone have a advice or se anything wrong missing in the build, then please let me know

Thanks, well done!

to remove the BB, i'd get a very long lever, and 4 hands. One person in charge of making sure the tool stays engaged with the teeth of the BB maybe wearing thick gloves to avoid pinching (or use a woodworking clamp with rubber contact points, maybe), and a long (long) tube as additional handle over the tool itself. That way you can smoothly apply enormous leverage / force, and it should work.
Same method to remove pedals that have almost fused into crank arms. The elegant answer is not to hammer on the tool, but to use a mega long lever arm.

Somewhat interesting update on paraffin wax for bikes:
I've been waxing my bike chains for years. Many, by now.
Last year, i started using the fanciest paraffin wax i could source, from a professional seller. Very low oil content, i think pretty much lab grade, whatever that really means. I have now ridden thousands of km with the stuff.
I get virtually no wax residue in the cassette, chainrings, pulleys.
In the past, with wax pellets i bought on amazon / supermarkets that were marketed as multi purpose paraffin wax (i assume mostly bought to make candles), i had instances where i had to remove wax residue between cogs, because it was causing mis-shifts. And the pulleys needed degunking regularly (mostly big flakes rather than outright gunk). It wasnt bad, i assumed it was normal, because it's wax after all.
But i've realized that this is entirely gone.
Now, does that mean my chain / drivetrain last longer? No idea. I have to test chain wear (i'm only on chain #2 on my LT268), but it's not like i'm on chain #6, and as a chain lasts for thousands of km, i really dont keep track over time of how long chains last in any scientific way.

But i thought i'd share here that paraffin waxes DO differ. Without additives, whether that makes a difference to lifespan, idk. But my drivetrain is always clean AF, it's really just black dust / incredibly thin black flakes that come off my drivetrain. It's so, so nice not to deal with oily and gunky drivetrains. My rotors are now way nastier than my drivetrain, funny enough. Because if i rub my rotor with my calf, i get a black mark. W the chain, virtually nothing.