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Messages - Ar26

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1
As the owner of an LCO17, it rolls very well on the flat with 45mm wheels. I don't feel any aerodynamic brakes because of the wider diagonal tube at the bottom. For information, a water container is wider than the frame. In this case, all the frames would therefore be less aerodynamic as soon as you put bottles (???). You have to see the purchase of a bike as a whole (frame + wheel). You can buy a great tennis racket and a string that is unsuitable for your game. First of all, it is the geometry to favor and that is personal.

2
Do you mean pass front brake hose to the left in front of the steering tube and hold it there with a tape?
With this technique, your pipe will be on the right side

3
Did anyone build the bike with 2by mechanical shifting? I'm struggling with routing the cables through the headset. The problem is that the exit port for front brake is on the right side of the steering tube for some reason so I end up with 3 cables on one side and 1 cable on the other side of the steering tube wich results in steering pulling to the right when assembled.
Some hold the cable with adhesive tape on the fork (at mid-height) to keep it on the right side. Also make sure that your cable has not passed behind the fork to come back in front

4
How to route the di2 cable if there is no hole under the front derailleur? Through the hole for mechanical behind?
Sorry to have raised this problem which certainly does not have one. For my part, I don't have a hole under the FD. So I went through the space provided at the bottom of the seat tube. I have a Shimano Di2. A part is provided for Shimano or Sram. On the other hand, so that the electrical wire could pass through this plastic part, I had to slightly enlarge the hole in this plastic part screwed to the frame. A little electrical tape on the electrical wire closes the small space to prevent the passage of water. Very simple overall

5
I see that now these frames have a hole under the front derailleur hanger

6
You actually have a lot of spacers under the handlebars. Maybe this YT video on channel BBInfinite 2 years ago (Adjust a Headset Like a Boss) will help you compress your headset in the best way. I myself was amazed at the compression with plastic spacers

7
I finished the Build today after receiving the wheel set.
I've also ridden the first few kilometers to set every adjustment and get a first feel for the bike. The build with pedals and bottle mounts is about 7,5kg.

The mechanical shifting works fine. It only needs some fine tuning. The bike feels very good and stiff. I have to say that I do not really have a comparison. Only my aluminum gravelbike (Trek Checkpoint). I'll also post my impressions after a few longer rides.

I think the frame fits me pretty well with size 54. I'm 175cm with inseem of 82. But after only 10km I don't know exactly.

My personal Pros and Cons so far:
+ Good frame  and parts quality. No bigger problems yet.
+ The build was good with some smaller problems.

- front derailleur hanger not so good for mechanical Shimano due to the missing support for the stabilizer screw.
- paint quality is okay (small imperfections here and there) but the clear coat is very thin so that I already have some smaller scratches. I think the paintjob should be clear coated at least 2 times.

As already mentioned by other people the carbon in some areas (downtube, toptube) Is very thin. You can easily flex it with your thumb. I don't know if that is normal for that kind of frames. I just want to say it.

All in all I'm very happy how it turned out and looking forward to the next rides. The whole build was about 2500 Euro. For that price I can't buy a branded Frame with carbon wheels and group set.
It's clear, you're going to beat all your KOMs. We're not going to miss you with this red bike in the green meadows

8
On a di2 Ultegra, this screw is already at the extreme limit of the plate

9
The hanger is fixed by 4 screws. So if they could provide a different hanger it could work.

I'll definitely give updates when I know something new.
So far I can't go on with the build. That sucks.
If I have to go with electronic shifting, the build will be mich more expensive than planned. And I also really like mechanical shifting.
I tasted the electric and it's really great for the settings which offer a lot of possibilities. Without counting on internal wiring, much easier. It's very difficult  to go back.

10
The di2 Ultegra touchs the frame plate for me

11
While I don't really understand the squared design of the downtube, I can not imagine that an average rider would feel any difference. Especially because I guess the front wheel will make the bigger difference in that area and It should kinda shield parts of the downtube from the air flow.

I think the rider position, clothing, ... will make the biggest difference in aerodynamics.
Absolutely agree with you. I am not an engineer, nor a specialist in aerodynamics. LC should send the frame to Hambini for review (ah! ah!)

12
Do Western branded frames also Flex when they're considered lightweight?
" To be light or not to be light "; That is the question

13
You will drive at more than 40km/h with this frame without any problem and maintain this speed. Concerning the wall, I confirm the thinness under the pressure of the hand. It reminds me of my Hyper wheels (Winspace), very thin too.

14
HBR13 in 100mm

15
Have you had many seat posts break on you in the past?  Thinking that could be catastrophic for the rider
I anticipated either a fall, or a tightening torque a little too strong (failure of my torque wrench). It has cost me, in the past, about 200 USD for a Ritchey.Je noticed it after a ride where I saw a small crack appear at the junction of the frame and the seatpost. Moreover, not being curvy, I'm not sure if we found it on Ali for example. This is definitely a proprietary seatpost. Anyway, I have one for sale

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