Modern geo. Fat frame?

[MtbNewbie]

Hi there, Is there a recommendation for a carbon frame that has reasonable Geo. I am looking to build a Rigid fat bike.
Is the LC613 worth considering?

https://www.lightcarbon.com/lightcarbon-full-carbon-26-fatbike-frameset-with-carbon-fork_p43.html


Thanks

[MtbNewbie]

Looks like no one has an opinion on Chiner Fat bikes.. Hmm

[carbonazza]

China is on Holidays, until about the 20th.
You may ask to carbonda.com for the FM366, they may sell it.
https://www.flybike-asia.com/product/14/

[MtbNewbie]

Thanks, Any other options?

[Cerps]

Hi there, Is there a recommendation for a carbon frame that has reasonable Geo. I am looking to build a Rigid fat bike.
Is the LC613 worth considering?

https://www.lightcarbon.com/lightcarbon-full-carbon-26-fatbike-frameset-with-carbon-fork_p43.html


Thanks

I noticed it says Max chainring is 30T. I run 32T oval so it wouldn't work for me.

I think XM Carbon speed was the place to go. Then Peter shut down to try his hand at crypto currency. I think he's back in business but that would worry me for future support. I'm pretty sure TanTan bought rights to use that mold.

[adroitrider]

The Promance lists a little more slack head tube angle

[MtbNewbie]

Promance declined to see. Tan tan 197 and XM CS197 and SN01 are all the same frame I guess. Looking at these..how is BXT? Less slack though.

[QuentinLL]

What about a titanium custom fatbike ?
The price may be close to carbon ones, but you can order a custom modern geometry.
See "metal frames" part of the forum for examples (no fatbikes, but they ca do what you want).

[FullCarbonAlchemist]

Keep in mind, fat geometry is a bit different than regular geometry. Particularly if you’re riding in ungroomed (or poorly groomed) snow.

You don’t want quite as much long-low-slack in that case because it will tend to get thrown off line, dig into the snowpack, and have huge float imbalances between the wheels (forcing you to manually balance the bike by leaning forward more or standing up). So if you’re new to fat bikes and are looking for “progressive” geometry, don’t get to attached to the latest enduro-like numbers. Something more balanced tends to be the most practical bike for snow riding.

[QuentinLL]

I depends on where you ride.
A regular geometry on steep uphill would put too much weight on rear wheel and decrease traction. A steep seat tube angle allows to center the mass in this situation, have a better weight distribution and still ride the bike where you would have to hike a bike with a regular geo.

If you ride steep snow trails (mountains), enduro-like geometry (steep seat tube, slack head angle) will be helpfull both uphill and downhill.
If you ride flat trails with deep snow, regular geometry might be better.

[endo.alley]

I put a Slack-R headset slackerizer on my Ican Sno4. Seems to work fine.

[FullCarbonAlchemist]

FWIW this long after the original post…that LightCarbon frame looks fine.

Keep in mind a 100-120mm suspension fork would substantially change those numbers and probably drop a degree or two off the HA. I wouldn’t suggest anything other than a Mastodon or a Wren for deep cold snow riding, my experience with the Bluto has been subpar to put it mildly. Sluggish damping, stanchion icing/sticking, air seal blowouts and eventually massive bushing failure.

If you’re looking for a warm weather fat setup that’s a different ball game….you can basically set that up like a hardcore hardtail if you want with progressive geometry, a long travel fork, 27.5 wheels and medium sized tires etc. but for snow riding you want almost the exact opposite. Not too slack, relatively balanced instead of back-weighted like a MTB, and sometimes rigid forks actually make more sense.

Personally I’d love to see a “catalog”/open mold fat frame that was confirmed to fit 27.5x4.5 tires. That’s where it’s at for snow riding on mostly groomed trails IMO.