ICAN P1 or P9 with 140 fork and 215 shock

[Sumbtrgave]

Hello guys

I've discovered through Google this forum as I've seen various threads here about ICAN chinese carbon frames. I've read through all those threads and I assume everyone who purchased such a frame seems to be happy with it and therefore I am also interested to acquire one, either a P1 or a P9.

However, to save some money I would like to carry over my previous shock and fork but am unsure if those fit. It's my first MTB I'm gonna build from scratch and I am completely new to MTB geometry.

So those are the specs of the shock and the fork:
Fork: FOX 34 TALAS fit ctd remote 29", 15mm axle, tapered, 140mm travel, kashima coat, 3-modes climb-trail-descend, lowerable to 110mm
Rear shock: FOX FLOAT CTD bv remote, 215mm length, 25.4mm x 8mm hardware, kashima coat, 3-modes climb-trail-descenD

As I understood the ICAN P1 has less travel and is therefore more suitable for the 140 mm fork, however, it is designed for a 200 mm shock.
The ICAN P9 is to my knowledge designed for a 150-160 mm fork, is this right? Or would a 140 mm fork also be suitable without destroying the geometry? Also, it is designed for a 210 mm shock. I've thought those 5 mm to my shock may not be too dangerous, but I'm just assuming until someone says otherwise. Or I could use offset bushings to correct the position?

I've already asked the question about the fork to ICAN directly via AliExpress messenger but they reply very meager. Literally their response was "P1 is trail, p9 is enduro, all are great, recommend P9".

What are your thoughts about the possibilities to carry over my previous components to one of those two frames? If the rear shock is completley unusable, which of those two frames are better with the 140 mm fork?

[emu26]

The best way to check is with dimensions you haven't mentioned.

For the fork, you want to know the axle to crown length. Cobba's post, which shows for me as post # 9 has a really good picture which shows how to measure this.  Make sure it is measure parallel to the steerer tube, not angled from the centre of the axle to the crown.   https://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/noob-question-about-total-fork-size-1075246.html  The other dimension that is useful with a fork is the rake or offset, these vary and probably aren't as critical as A to C. It has a slight effect on bike handling that I honestly don't think your average rider would pick up on unless they rode two identical bikes with different rake back to back.  This article will explain all about that  http://davesbikeblog.squarespace.com/blog/2007/5/4/trail-fork-rake-and-a-little-bit-of-history.html

For the shock you need to measure from the centre of the eye to the centre of the eye to give you the shock length and then the exposed part of the shaft to give you the "stroke" length.  This link has a video and also a picture to clarify.  https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/blogs/worldwide-cyclery-blog/the-basics-to-upgrading-the-rear-shock-on-you-mountain-bike

Once you have those dimensions then compare them to the frame geometry charts and or post back here. 

If you post the year model and make of bike they came from then some here might know those dimensions.

Welcome to the forum and I hope that helps.

[chetosmachine]

P9 will work, but:
- for every 10mm of fork A to C there's 0.5degrees of head angle
- 216x63 does fit, but on a full compression the rear triangle goes dangereously close to the frame, and the wheel so. Minimun flex/deformation would make for hard contact. If you can somehow limit the the travel with an internal block, it would be awesome. Also the offset bushings would be a great thing, since the longer eye to eye will also alter the geometry (again, less slack).
You have very good offers in rczbikeshop for 210x50/55 shocks that would be a good fit in the frame. We are not speaking here about 400 more usd for a shock.

[Sumbtrgave]

Thank you very much for your fast replies!

So missing dimensions are:
Axle to crown: 56 cm
Offset: 4.5 - 5 cm (was hard to measure as I had to imagine where the center of the steering axis may be)
Eye to eye of the rear shock is 21.5 cm and the stroke is 6 cm.

Yeah about the rear shock I'm really thinking to buy just a new one and sell the old one a probably get a few bucks back. However, when a 216x63 fits then I'm really considering to buy the P9 and try it out. As long as my fork now is okey? 

[chetosmachine]

Yes, the fork is good!
 

[emu26]

Please make sure you come back and post your build, with pics.

[flemic]

I think you have to become clear what you want to use the bike for. I have got a P9 and it doesn't climb too well. It is a dream on the way down but really not on the way up. It's long, it's sturdier and hence heavier in any aspect (frame, wheels, components). Everything is design to work fantastic downhill. If Enduro (90% down, 10% up), bike parks, downhill is what you are after, go for the P9. Btw, robust downhill parts are usually more expensive. Robust Enduro parts even more because they are meant to perform as well has downhill parts at a fraction of the weight.
The P1 however is the better balance. Some people say that a 130mm in the rear match just fine 130-160mm travel at the front. I am also using a 130/120mm combination in a Scott Spark clone. And if I had to choose, I'd stick to lower travel bike because it also offers great performance on longer tours and in technical terrain. (With compromises on faster decents of course).
That said, I luckily don't have to choose.

Don't necessarily stick to components you have. Swap them to have what suits your bike choice best. Corona should help to give you ok deals.

[Icyseanfitz]

I've a p9 on the way, thinking of putting on a 170 - 180mm fork, I'm wondering would a 216x63 shock be a better balance than a 210x55?

[Denys]

Mine should be arrive next week hopefully. Shipped by WXY Express to Germany. Have allready Vivid Air rc2 216 mm x 63,5 mm here. Waiting also to grab the Manitou Mezzer Pro if I get the new Version with updated Casting here in EU. Im going to build a 27,5 front and rear (650b). Should have 180mm Front and 165mm rear.

[endo.alley]

"I've a p9 on the way, thinking of putting on a 170 - 180mm fork, I'm wondering would a 216x63 shock be a better balance than a 210x55?" I think if anything shorter eye to eye would be better. 63mm of travel on shock may bottom out the tire with a big hit. You can shorten the eye to eye with offset shock bushings. I have a 170 Lyric that works excellent on the frame. I don't think it needs any more.