Carbonda Gravel Carbon frame CFR707

[artdesign]

Good morning everyone.

I'm in the process of ordering the CFR707 but I'm still not sure what size to order.

I am 178 cm tall and my leg length is 84 cm.
Previously I rode a Spec Venge 54 and currently a Trek Speedconcept in size M.
CFR707 will be my first gravel bike and I don't know whether to choose size M or maybe L.

The next thing to consider is the choice of steering wheel. Is it included with the integrated steering wheel or the bridge and the steering wheel separately, because I do not see the possibility of mounting a counter / computer, e.g. Garmin, on the integrated one.

Thanks in advance for all hints and suggestions

[jannmayer]

Good morning everyone.

I'm in the process of ordering the CFR707 but I'm still not sure what size to order.

I am 178 cm tall and my leg length is 84 cm.
Previously I rode a Spec Venge 54 and currently a Trek Speedconcept in size M.
CFR707 will be my first gravel bike and I don't know whether to choose size M or maybe L.

The next thing to consider is the choice of steering wheel. Is it included with the integrated steering wheel or the bridge and the steering wheel separately, because I do not see the possibility of mounting a counter / computer, e.g. Garmin, on the integrated one.

Thanks in advance for all hints and suggestions

The CFR707 can use an integrated handlebar and stem with internal routing or a conventional separate bar and stem. I set mine up with a standard handlebar and stem, so mounting accessories is no problem. I went with external routing to make the build and cockpit changes easier.


For sizing, it's worth comparing the CFR707 with your bikes in geometrygeeks, or by making your own spreadsheet. I used the stack, reach, and stem measurements from my road bike to determine which size CFR707 frame to buy. The XL frame has roughly the same stack as my road bike but a longer reach. I compensated with a shorter stem to get the bars where I want them. I could have made a L work, but sizing up moves the front wheel farther ahead. This makes the bike more stable and prevents toe overlap, even with 700x50mm tires. I'm 190 cm.

[artdesign]

The CFR707 can use an integrated handlebar and stem with internal routing or a conventional separate bar and stem. I set mine up with a standard handlebar and stem, so mounting accessories is no problem. I went with external routing to make the build and cockpit changes easier.


For sizing, it's worth comparing the CFR707 with your bikes in geometrygeeks, or by making your own spreadsheet. I used the stack, reach, and stem measurements from my road bike to determine which size CFR707 frame to buy. The XL frame has roughly the same stack as my road bike but a longer reach. I compensated with a shorter stem to get the bars where I want them. I could have made a L work, but sizing up moves the front wheel farther ahead. This makes the bike more stable and prevents toe overlap, even with 700x50mm tires. I'm 190 cm.

thx for Your answer
Which bottom bracket You choice?

[jannmayer]

I used a Shimano Dura-Ace SM-BB-R9100 bottom bracket. It was only a little more expensive than the Ultegra one and slightly lighter. The bearings are smaller so I don't know how long it will last with the way I ride this bike, so I may step down to Ultegra next time.


I'm using the GRX cranks as well. The frame uses a standard 68 mm BSA threaded bottom bracket, so there are lots of choices.

[artdesign]

I used a Shimano Dura-Ace SM-BB-R9100 bottom bracket. It was only a little more expensive than the Ultegra one and slightly lighter. The bearings are smaller so I don't know how long it will last with the way I ride this bike, so I may step down to Ultegra next time.


I'm using the GRX cranks as well. The frame uses a standard 68 mm BSA threaded bottom bracket, so there are lots of choices.

Thank you for your response. 

In that case, I will mount there Ninja Token BSA 68 DUB for SRAM cranks.
I wasn't sure which size of the integrated guide to order but in the end I chose 90x420mm.

I hope it will suit me

[2old2mould]

My 707 has developed a hairline crack where the two seatstays meet (more or less). I'm hoping this is just a paint crack. I've reported it to Wing. Anyone else had this issue? I didn't use the mudguard fixing support but have fitted it now to add additional stiffness just in case. Picture of bike and crack attached.

[jannmayer]

My 707 has developed a hairline crack where the two seatstays meet (more or less). I'm hoping this is just a paint crack. I've reported it to Wing. Anyone else had this issue? I didn't use the mudguard fixing support but have fitted it now to add additional stiffness just in case. Picture of bike and crack attached.

I haven't seen anything like that on mine, but I will keep my eyes out!


Out of curiosity, how many miles/kilometers do you have on it?

[Opadeira]

The CFR707 can use an integrated handlebar and stem with internal routing or a conventional separate bar and stem. I set mine up with a standard handlebar and stem, so mounting accessories is no problem. I went with external routing to make the build and cockpit changes easier.


For sizing, it's worth comparing the CFR707 with your bikes in geometrygeeks, or by making your own spreadsheet. I used the stack, reach, and stem measurements from my road bike to determine which size CFR707 frame to buy. The XL frame has roughly the same stack as my road bike but a longer reach. I compensated with a shorter stem to get the bars where I want them. I could have made a L work, but sizing up moves the front wheel farther ahead. This makes the bike more stable and prevents toe overlap, even with 700x50mm tires. I'm 190 cm.

what's your inseam measurement? I'm about the same height

[jannmayer]

what's your inseam measurement? I'm about the same height

My inseam is 90 cm. My BB to saddle clamp is about 76 cm, so the XL gives a decent amount is exposed seatpost but not too much.

[2old2mould]

I haven't seen anything like that on mine, but I will keep my eyes out!


Out of curiosity, how many miles/kilometers do you have on it?

This is the thing, this is my third ride. I haven't ridden the bike much at all due to work, weather, and other responsibilities. I've probably put less than 150kms on this frameset.

TBH the bike looks great, and rides really well, but the build experience has been sub-optimal. The rear shifting is poor as I had to run a fully covered cable to the rear which has made the shifting very inaccurate (sometimes you have to shift down two gears then back up one to shift down, and vice versa).

I also have a CFR1056 and struggle with keeping the headset tight.

In fairness I also have a Yeoleo R12 which I'm building and the experience there has also been unsatisfactory.

[jannmayer]

This is the thing, this is my third ride. I haven't ridden the bike much at all due to work, weather, and other responsibilities. I've probably put less than 150kms on this frameset.

TBH the bike looks great, and rides really well, but the build experience has been sub-optimal. The rear shifting is poor as I had to run a fully covered cable to the rear which has made the shifting very inaccurate (sometimes you have to shift down two gears then back up one to shift down, and vice versa).

I also have a CFR1056 and struggle with keeping the headset tight.

In fairness I also have a Yeoleo R12 which I'm building and the experience there has also been unsatisfactory.

My shifting wasn't great at first, and I have a fully covered cable as well. It got a lot better after I replaced the derailleur hanger. Seems like the derailleur hangers are a bit soft and prone to bending.

[carbonazza]

...The rear shifting is poor as I had to run a fully covered cable to the rear which has made the shifting very inaccurate (sometimes you have to shift down two gears then back up one to shift down, and vice versa).
I also have a CFR1056 and struggle with keeping the headset tight.

In fairness I also have a Yeoleo R12 which I'm building and the experience there has also been unsatisfactory.

Your issues look solvable.

The poor rear shifting probably comes from the hose being chewed somewhere(if both cable and hose are new).

The headset not being tight, comes from either a nut not compressing the tube enough, or a star-nut not placed adequately and move when tightening.
Or there is not enough room for the steerer tube to go up when you tighten the top cap.

From the two above I bet your Yoeleo issues can be fixed too 

[helmat]

What a great bike that is!

[kbernstein]

How is the toe overlap with the 707? It's horrible on my 696. Size 54 frame, size 44 shoes and even after giving up my beloved midfoot cleat position the toe overlap is ridiculous. Can't really steer at low speeds

[2old2mould]

Your issues look solvable.

The poor rear shifting probably comes from the hose being chewed somewhere(if both cable and hose are new).

The headset not being tight, comes from either a nut not compressing the tube enough, or a star-nut not placed adequately and move when tightening.
Or there is not enough room for the steerer tube to go up when you tighten the top cap.

From the two above I bet your Yoeleo issues can be fixed too 

I'm going to pull the cables out and recable in a few weeks. See if that solves the issue. I can't remember how I routed the cable last time I did it but I remember it was the second time I did it as the first time I fitted the cable only partially covered and it was poor shifting.

Regarding headset tightness, I've torqued the bung to spec (no star nut, it's carbon steerer) but no joy. It may be that another shim is needed. I may try that next time.