I created an account just to post here. For anybody that gets one of these, some advice;
By the time you're done you've likely gone more than half way to the cost of the genuine frame. I regret my purchase and don't think I'll ever be "happy" with the bike.
If you really want to there are some things you *need* to do before riding it, I snapped several linkage pins before working this out.
Basically, the frame is a good copy externally. It's nowhere near as stiff though, that's the main problem. It hates side loads.
Any sideways deflection on the back end is transferred to the top shock mount, this results in failures of the top pin. Even after taking some precautions against this, more paint is missing from that area of the frame every time I use it. I doubt it has long left.
This issue is exaggerated by using a specializerd "flip chip" as lower mounting hardware, as it removes the slight pivot a bushing provides.
1) Replace the bearings that come with the frame, they have loads of play. I used some loctite on the outer race as the fit is quite loose.
2) Don't use the flip chip, instead install a needle bearing in the lower eyelet (enduro, get the narrowest one they sell, I had to grind it down a bit). This doesn't help with the flex but protects the top mount a bit.
These changes go some way to mitigating the problem but there's still too much flex in my opinion. I suppose you might get away with it if you're on the lighter side.
Other things;
1) Definitely install the specialized chainstay protector and some kind of downtube protector. The downtube is really thin.
2) Use jagwire foam internal routing tubes.
3) Replace the seat clamp (wolf tooth, mentioned previously). The stock one touches the tire.
4) Cover the gap between the bottom bracket and chainstays where the pivot is. Rocks get into the gap and dirt gets into the bottom bracket. Flex tape works.
5) Take care with dropper post insertion. Don't fully "bottom out" the post in the frame. When you feel it stop, pull back a bit. If you bottom the post out, the actuation mechanism is touching (or close to touching) the pivot that goes through the seat tube. It can interfer with the actuator and if the post slips can cause damage. Make sure the clamp is good and tight.
I've got quite a few hours on the bike now and I have to say, every time I ride it I end up stopping at least once because it "doesn't feel right". Like the back wheel is loose, or a crank arm, headset. There's just so much flex.
I do like the geo. The large seat tube size is really good, all frames should do this. Very little play in the dropper.
In summary, I wish I'd got the genuine frame. With all the extra bits, the many hours of work involved, the cost isn't far off.
