Chinertown
Chinese Carbon MTB => 29er => Topic started by: WozCuz on September 10, 2020, 03:16:51 PM
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Just spotted this pop up on AliExpress
￡562.82 | 2021 MTB EVO Frame Mountain-Bike-Frame Carbon-Suspension-Frame Boost-148mm 29er New MTB XC AM ENDURO Frameset
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKHLIEx
Info seems all wrong and contains a lot of pictures of shoes. But managed to find their website (I think)
https://amp.obmbicycle.com/Carbon-frame-chameleon-frame-manufacturers-wholesale-carbon-frame-chameleon-frame-c66239/
Anyone dealt with OBM Bicycle before? Wondering whether its worth a shot
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Interesting. I had a Stumpjumper ST that was an enigma. Looking at in on paper, the reach was way too short. I wouldn't even consider a bike with that reach today. But everytime I got on it, it felt great. I also had extremely lower level suspension on it, but it ate up everything. It was to the point I asked the shop where I bought it if they did some special tune on the fork. They thought I was crazy.
Also whenever I went up hill I could feel a lot of bobbing. I always thought it was eating up all my speed. But then I would check Strava and despite the feel, I was really moving up the hill. I never understood how that bike should have sucked, but felt so great. I loved it. And I dont like Specialized really. Ive demoed super expensive bikes, and I liked the cheap Stumpy ST as much as all of them.
That EVO clone is kind of interesting.
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Too light for my liking.
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Looks interesting, but didn't see much info, geo, travel...
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Geo
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/Ha042762f8bc94b23be42e2385e63c508p.jpg)
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If that geo is correct this the normal stumpjumper, so not evo, also missing size XL.
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If that geo is correct this the normal stumpjumper, so not evo, also missing size XL.
Yeah it doesn't seem like the correct geometry for the evo. I've also tried asking some questions about the frame, sizings, shocks etc on AliExpress and not really got anywhere yet.
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Found this seller aswell with 7 sold :O
https://aliexpress.com/item/4000538567754.html
This seems to be their website with geo chart for EVO frame, confusing... (edit: this might not be the same store or frame, I googled AWST Cycling Tactics Store and found this website on a twitter account with the same name).
https://www.allstarbicycle.com/275-stumpjumper-evo-carbon-suspension-frameset-29er-p2721049.html
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Found this seller aswell with 7 sold :O
https://aliexpress.com/item/4000538567754.html
This seems to be their website with geo chart for EVO frame, confusing... (edit: this might not be the same store or frame, I googled AWST Cycling Tactics Store and found this website on a twitter account with the same name).
https://www.allstarbicycle.com/275-stumpjumper-evo-carbon-suspension-frameset-29er-p2721049.html
The numbers on that aliexpress one are all over the place. The drawing shows BB drop or 52mm, the table shows 33, drawing shows reach as 419, table shows 425, table shows HA 66.5, drawing 65.9 etc etc.
Also the Aliexpress one claims T1000, the other link says T1100
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woule love to see someone pulling the trigger on this one
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I'd love to see this frame off a more reputable/common reseller. I've been out of the game too long to pick one of these up from a random reseller/aliexpress.
Edit: Also the frame doesn't have water bottle bolts. Hope that's not an oversight!
Double edit: Shock eye to eye is that of the lousy stumpjumper ST. Unless it's actually 210x50-55 or so, it's an ST. If the numbers were less out to lunch, then I might be interested in a medium.
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The geo is a little inconsistent for sure. I did a little digging around about this frame (love the look of the stumpy) very similar to the new Stumpy so somehow they got their hands of the moulds and were able to build pretty quickly. I got in contact with this company https://www.allstarbicycle.com and spoke to someone via whatsapp. Pretty good deal for the frame $700 CDN. Still thinking this one over as that Santa Cruz looks pretty good too
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The geo is a little inconsistent for sure. I did a little digging around about this frame (love the look of the stumpy) very similar to the new Stumpy so somehow they got their hands of the moulds and were able to build pretty quickly. I got in contact with this company https://www.allstarbicycle.com and spoke to someone via whatsapp. Pretty good deal for the frame $700 CDN. Still thinking this one over as that Santa Cruz looks pretty good too
It looks like the outgoing stumpy. Go for it!
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The geo is a little inconsistent for sure. I did a little digging around about this frame (love the look of the stumpy) very similar to the new Stumpy so somehow they got their hands of the moulds and were able to build pretty quickly. I got in contact with this company https://www.allstarbicycle.com and spoke to someone via whatsapp. Pretty good deal for the frame $700 CDN. Still thinking this one over as that Santa Cruz looks pretty good too
Do you have a feedback or review about the allstarbicycle website? I am interested in their Specialized Epic frame
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Yeah it looks like the old Stumpy, unless you found a source with the new Stumpy frame. I'd be pretty interested in the new frame.
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Do you have a feedback or review about the allstarbicycle website? I am interested in their Specialized Epic frame
the hardtail is cheaper @ Taobao: https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z0k.7385961.1997985097.d4918997.525a619c5PuTWL&id=611284645632&_u=t2dmg8j26111
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thanks bro. is this a legit site? it's hard to browse there.. some text cannot be translated.
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I'm interested but I have never seen an "OBM" or "All Star" bicycle before. The OBM reviews on aliexpress are not good.
All star does not look any better.
http://chinertown.com/index.php?topic=3050.0 (http://chinertown.com/index.php?topic=3050.0)
https://www.scamner.com/check/allstarbicycle.com (https://www.scamner.com/check/allstarbicycle.com)
That being said, I would really like to see a build with this frame ;).
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I've plunged, risked it and ordered. I will let you all know when it arrives - saying shipping between Nov 10-15
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That's awesome. Looking forward to the results.
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I've plunged, risked it and ordered. I will let you all know when it arrives - saying shipping between Nov 10-15
DId the item arrived?
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DId the item arrived?
No, will post when it does, shipping end of month
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is there any news?
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interesting looking frame. lacking info on the fork travel and rear frame travel.
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A month ago, I decided to pulled out the trigger and bought one of this at Aliexpress, today the frame arrived and first impressions are quite good:
- Frame came very well packaged and indluded a headset (tapered, integrated type), seatpost clamp (38.6mm clamp for 34.9 seatpost) and even the chain guide; sadly it didnt include the axle
- Hardware looks just like the original stumpy (each bolt, linkages, derailleur hanger, etc) it came a little loose and bearings are not the greatest
- Cable routing follows the original stumpy but have no internal tubing (need to fish out the cables)
- Dimensions/geo numbers are much alike the 2019 stumpy (non EVO version)
- Came with the 95mm/98mm yoke (for up to 150mm travel), max shock size seems to support a 210mm shock
- Water bottle mount is just a little higher than the original stumpy
- Shock hardware seems to use 21.8mm x 8mm for the top (actual bolt is 6mm but they include a spacer for 8mm), still figuring out the bottom as it seems to require either the actual flip chip (there are grooves in the yoke which seems to match) or some sort of customization of the hardware (actual spacing ~14.5mm)
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wow, that looks pretty good actually ! where did you order that one ? and thanks for the high quality photos.
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A month ago, I decided to pulled out the trigger and bought one of this at Aliexpress, today the frame arrived and first impressions are quite good:
- Frame came very well packaged and indluded a headset (tapered, integrated type), seatpost clamp (38.6mm clamp for 34.9 seatpost) and even the chain guide; sadly it didnt include the axle
- Hardware looks just like the original stumpy (each bolt, linkages, derailleur hanger, etc) it came a little loose and bearings are not the greatest
- Cable routing follows the original stumpy but have no internal tubing (need to fish out the cables)
- Dimensions/geo numbers are much alike the 2019 stumpy (non EVO version)
- Came with the 95mm/98mm yoke (for up to 150mm travel), max shock size seems to support a 210mm shock
- Water bottle mount is just a little higher than the original stumpy
- Shock hardware seems to use 21.8mm x 8mm for the top (actual bolt is 6mm but they include a spacer for 8mm), still figuring out the bottom as it seems to require either the actual flip chip (there are grooves in the yoke which seems to match) or some sort of customization of the hardware (actual spacing ~14.5mm)
Damn, mine's in customs - hopefully here before New Year...
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wow, that looks pretty good actually ! where did you order that one ? and thanks for the high quality photos.
Got mine from Ali, vendor was AWST cycles or something like that :)
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WOW congratulations, it already looks great, can you take pictures of the construction? and can you say which damper length fits? and how much suspension travel he has at the back?
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Got mine from Ali, vendor was AWST cycles or something like that :)
ok, i found it on the airwolf official store too https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005001869591629.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.14d02e0eG8c8XG
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Hello everybody,
Since I am also interested in this subject, I am in contact with Airwolf and asked about the possible suspension travel. I received the following picture from the design department.
is it correct that the max travel is 142 mm?
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A little update, I sourced a couple of parts from the original stumpy and Im happy to report that they all fit :), I got the following:
-Rear thru axle 148x12 (S170200003), not much to say, it worked
-Downtube protector (S184200063), required drilling of 2 bolts for installation
-Chainstay protector (S186900003), surprisingly chainstay protector fitted like a glove and there was even existing thread in the back of the horst link bolts to attach the screw
-Bearing repleacement kit (S180600003), were quite a pain to replace but new ones are quite smooth
-Rear Shock hardware kit (S184200068), flip chip hardware matches the grooves in the suspension yoke but is quite a tight fit (yoke is ~1.5 mm narrower)
Im still waiting for parts but in the meantime maybe Ill build it as a 27.5+ as I have some spares.
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wow, that's some really good compatibility for a knockoff frame.
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@swuw231 do you think it is possible to use a 210mm long shock and a 150mm fork ?
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Yes, as stated before 210mm seems to be the max shock lenght that will fit, anything bigger will cause the yoke to be missaligned, therefore making impossible to fit upper shock mount; regarding the fork, it requires a 560mm axle to crown which is almost what a Fox 29er 150mm measures.
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They give a shok with 190x50 max. That a 210 fits in there is strange
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@swuw231 Woop, thanks ! You are right, you wrote before about max shock lengh and frame travel. Definitely a possible alternative to the hightower clone then. How tall are you and how long are your legs ? Which size did you order ?
@cube78 in this case there is nothing wierd. Original stumpy has this feature too.
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@Gigelz
ok i didn't know that, then the 140mm travel should also be feasible right?
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@Cube78 i think you need 50mm stroke for the 140mm travel. if you want to go with a smaller fork in the front, you can use a 190x51 or 200x51 shock. if you want to go with a 150 or 160 fork, maybe it makes sense to use a 210x50 shock to compensate the geometry change. you can take a look on the speci website bike archiv. stumpy 2019 should be the same.
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Can anyone tell me whether the damper length is specified in Imperial or Metric?
the manufacturer recommends a length of 190x50, here you recommend 210x50
sorry for the stupid question but i don't get it
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@swuw231 Woop, thanks ! You are right, you wrote before about max shock lengh and frame travel. Definitely a possible alternative to the hightower clone then. How tall are you and how long are your legs ? Which size did you order ?
Im 5'11" with a 32" inseam and picked a medium frame.
Can anyone tell me whether the damper length is specified in Imperial or Metric?
the manufacturer recommends a length of 190x50, here you recommend 210x50
sorry for the stupid question but i don't get it
No one is recommending a 210mm shock, Im just stating the maximum length which seems to be supported by the frame, you can use whatever shock length you want as long as you understand its effects on geometry, 190mm shock number may have come from early development of the frame, if you check the geometry chart, it can clearly be seen that length was chosen having in mind the old iteration of the suspension yoke, many things have improved since then and now the frame is clearly more inline with the actual stumpy.
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@swuw231
Ok fine
Thank you very much for your detailed answer
Do you already know which damper you will use?
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Im 5'11" with a 32" inseam and picked a medium frame.
No one is recommending a 210mm shock, Im just stating the maximum length which seems to be supported by the frame, you can use whatever shock length you want as long as you understand its effects on geometry, 190mm shock number may have come from early development of the frame, if you check the geometry chart, it can clearly be seen that length was chosen having in mind the old iteration of the suspension yoke, many things have improved since then and now the frame is clearly more inline with the actual stumpy.
thanks for pointing on that fact that they used a different link in the geometry chart. i am pretty sure that 190mm is too short and you will ruin the geometry. 200mm or 210mm is the right choice, depending on the fork travel.
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Received my frame. This is my second full suspension 'knock off' that I have purchased. The first one, little shorter travel and dated (68 head tube angle). Finish was good, but this frame has really open my eyes. I currently have it taken apart. I can rush it and put it together but it won't do it justice. The linkage has decent bearings, after reading the post I see the other user has updated parts on it. I will most likely do the same. Took it to my buddy who's a specialized dealer - currently in Ontario, all specialized enduro or stump jumpers have already sold out. He could not believe how close it is. Another detail that almost makes me want to do it is on the down tube is an impression for the swat box. Makes be think that it is meant to be cut out. The downtube is quite oval like the stump jumper. They definitely manufactured this bike at some point. Communication was decent, all through messaging on aliexpress. More to follow.
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A little update, I sourced a couple of parts from the original stumpy and Im happy to report that they all fit :), I got the following:
-Rear thru axle 148x12 (S170200003), not much to say, it worked
-Downtube protector (S184200063), required drilling of 2 bolts for installation
-Chainstay protector (S186900003), surprisingly chainstay protector fitted like a glove and there was even existing thread in the back of the horst link bolts to attach the screw
-Bearing repleacement kit (S180600003), were quite a pain to replace but new ones are quite smooth
-Rear Shock hardware kit (S184200068), flip chip hardware matches the grooves in the suspension yoke but is quite a tight fit (yoke is ~1.5 mm narrower)
Im still waiting for parts but in the meantime maybe Ill build it as a 27.5+ as I have some spares.
Ya man! Wicked, thank you for posting these, I am going to do the same! Cheers.
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Question for those who already have this frame: is the geo chart on page 1 accurate?
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I'll post a full review and measurements once I have mine built. it is def. 2019 Specialized Stumpjumper, not the evo. Without saying it fully, the person I have been speaking with said they have built this frame for a big company to sell over seas...
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Hi Thrill21...can you post the weight of the frame you received (please provide size)...with the rear axle, Headset Bearings, Rear Derailleur Hanger, Chain guide, seatpost clamp? I started an open dialog...asking questions with one of the sellers on AliExpress (AirWolf)...and wanted to get an actual weight comparison from someone who has the frame in hand. They list it as 2295 (+/-30gr) in "Medium" frame and 2193 grams "for size M" in the same listing.
Also take note for anyone else interested in this frame...the price as of Sunday (1/10/21) has jumped up to $853 + $48.42 shipping to U.S. = $901.42. So Thrill21 and swuw231 got a decent deal at $770 + shipping.
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With said items, this frame came in at 2268 grams. All info is very accurate on website
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Thanks Thrill!...Airwolf is telling me the 2193 grams is just for the frame, rear derailleur and seat post clamp. My max cutoff weight for this project is 2280grams...so approx. 5lbs...I am shooting for a 24"ish" lbs (24.25-24.80 lbs) finished build weight. Looks like the Stumpy clone is right near the max...but within my spec. Thanks again for your help!
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Hi there
is there any news of which are already being built?
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It's a shame that no news is posted by those who already have the frame
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Here's my follow up for some impatient trollers....
Bought this frame November 4th and received in hand January 4th. 60 days China ----> Toronto.Not bad considering our world is currently upside down.
Like swuw231, I also did not get a rear axle included so I ordered one from CRC and it was hear quicker then my LBS could order one. Build it up with parts I had and put it together for a demo ride knowing that it was not the configuration I was going to ride with, Front travel, RS Pike DA 160 with a 51 offset provided me with a 65 deg slack which is more then what I am use to. Ran a 200x57 rear shock, too much travel as the tire was just rubbing on the seat binder. Tested it on some local trails where their is some downhill sections (not really, small 30 second downhills) and mini climbs. Rode incredibly well. Frame is predictable and works very well. Handled jumps, climbed very well. I tore the bike back down and as suspected 3 bearing were already pooched. So I will be replacing all the bearings. Going to be painting this frame up and will put all new bearings everywhere and bike should be ready 2 ride for the spring. Pic attached. The store I bought this from has been good at communicating, will be purchasing a few more to sell as completed bikes as the entire bike industry is on pause for 2021. The store I got this from is originally linked on the first page so do some research like I did.
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Hi Thrill...the bike looks great! I ordered mine on 1/17 (from AWST Cycling) and just got the tracking # on 1/31...so now the waiting game begins...lol. Did they include the rubber plug or "boot" that fits in that large cable/hose access opening behind the bottom bracket shell? I am looking on line and can't seem to find it for sale anywhere. I figured that would be a part that would need to be replaced at one time or another during the bike's lifetime...but can't find it...maybe I am using the wrong description to search in google.
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Looks great. You'll probably like that slack head angle. I wonder how slack it makes the seat tube angle though. That may be the only drawback.
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Looks great. You'll probably like that slack head angle. I wonder how slack it makes the seat tube angle though. That may be the only drawback.
No they didn't while sanding down the frame yesterday I had thought of a couple ideas. Similar plugs like for the firewall on vehicles where wires get fed through. Need to sort that out for sure.
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hi everyone,
I'm new on this forum and want to share a few info about this frame. Ordered in on december 23. recieved last week with DPD shipping or XDB whatever you call it - no tax had to be paid.
I had all the components (bar wheelsets) waiting at home so i could start assembly asap... but - they speciffy 190*50 or 160*50 rear shock - i went for 190*50. My frame is L size. I installed the shock and let all the pressure out to see where it stops - shocker... when rear triangle allready hit the seatpost the shock still had 10-12mm of travel left... So i fiddled around with caliper/measure tape and figgured it out that min length after the shock is compressed is 160mm and max is 210mm - so the only shock that is suitable in my opinion is 210*50mm - with that you have exactly 150mm of travel on the rear wheel. So the info they give out on the aliexpress seems to be wrong or the old design of the shock fork. anyways, i now ordered 210*50 shock.
The frame is really well made - of course i ordered all the oem items swus231 posted in #31 post - thanks! i did a hack paintjob and now waiting for the proper shock and wheels to check the ride. There are minor surface (I hope) dents/holes which the black paint hides really well so consider that when chosing your color choice.
Frame weighs 2190g painted - without seatpost clamp and chainguide.
Edit: i forgot to add, the headtube angle with 210mm shock and 160mm fork is around 65°
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Here is the link to the photos i made:
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AodhshLG0I0gi60KzmND0TcEzErnEg?e=2g2awg
the aluminium bar is 210mm and the next hole is 160mm - so you can check the clearance of the frame.
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Paint looks very good.
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Update: The location of the water bottle mounted is way to high. I noticed that right away even without a piggy back shock (which I am going to go with) so I drilled a 1/4" hole 65mm below the bottom screw mount and installed another rivet nut in to the frame. Major improvement. Highly recommend doing this. Paint so far.... Sanded - 600, then 800 - black primer and then added color effex paint. Looks amazing in the sun light. Decals ordered, then 3-4 coats of clear.
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For those looking to add an aluminum rivet nut to their carbon frame...check out this video
Some tips about treating the rivet nut prior to install and using epoxy adhesive as an insulating layer to prevent galvanic corrosion between the aluminum and carbon.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yw6NsmAqpV4
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Bottle holder really is too high, but i'm not really comfortable drilling holes in a carbon tubing... Maybe epoxy would help?
Another question, top shock mount is from specialized spec standard 6x20 but this frame has an opening of 21.6. Probably the best thing to do is to machine custom bushing to have a tight fit, right?
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Hi guys,
i am new to the forum, just wanted to say hi.So there is no Xl frame .Do you think the L size will be really small for me.I am 1.88cm
Greets
Sava
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I'm exactly 1.88, and the frame size L seems to be ok. Still waiting for the wheels which should be delivered this week. Can report back then how the ride is. I used to have specialized enduro comp 2013 size L, and when i compared these two frames they are very similar.
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For what it's worth I'd never touch the L size and I'm a hair over 188 cm
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Thx guys,
i appreciate your feedback.Mousey i am expecting your review.Your Frame pictures made me decide to pull the trigger, but yes, the size is a concern for me.
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Bottle holder really is too high, but i'm not really comfortable drilling holes in a carbon tubing... Maybe epoxy would help?
Another question, top shock mount is from specialized spec standard 6x20 but this frame has an opening of 21.6. Probably the best thing to do is to machine custom bushing to have a tight fit, right?
It's not something you want to get wrong that's for sure - but not something too difficult either. I have done this many times and I always say, pilot hole first fo you know exactly where your going. I would not recommend epoxy. I would make up a piece of aluminum 140mm long by 10mm wide then 3 holes in the aluminum spaced 65mm apart then that way the bottom hole on your bottle mount will at least be in something see drawing attached...Make sure also to install some felt under the bottom edge so it prevents the plate from slapping on the frame
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hello again,
Finally i got my wheels. Bike built to 99% - ready to test ride. I finished in the evening so photos are made with bad lightning - will do some more in daylight. Bike feels great, i went for RS superdeluxe ultimate shock and Ohlins RXF 36 EVO at the end.
here are the specs:
crank - slx 32t 175mm
rear mech - slx 12s (10-51)
shifter - slx 12s
bb - xt
rotors - xt 203mm
hubs - xt micro spline
rims - WTB ST 30 Light 29"
brakes - slx 2piston (gonna upgrade front brake to 4 piston probably9
handlebar - ritchey trail raiser (10° back sweep - I know, i bought it without thinking..)
stem - 50mm (krsec - aliexpress)
seat - proloq (aliexpress)
seatpost - x-fusion manic 150mm 34,9
pedals - rockbros (aliexpress)
tires - Maxxis DHF 2.5 and DHR II 2.4
fork - öhlins rxf 36 Evo 29"
shock - RS superdeluxe ultimate 210*50
Bike is size L and feels great (I'm 1.88cm). Fork is buttery smooth (if anybody is interested) as i read a lot of reviews how bad it is - i haven't ridden a better fork, and i have ridden Marzocchi bomber (yes i am that old), Marzocchi 66, RS Boxxer WC, RS Pike RC, and this fork is the best one yet. I don't know if it's the 29" wheels or is the fork actually that good. Also the rear shock - the lock out function makes this bike almost like a hardtail (sag set to 30%), you can accelerate almost as on a hardtail... anyway, I only did short runs around the house, run some stairs - usual stuff.
Bike now weights 14,00Kg with tubeless system and you will agree DH tires. So if anybody wants to get it in the 12-13Kg range it shouldn't be to hard.
photos: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AodhshLG0I0gi65M28hhCsMf1ZS0eA?e=JUGqIY
So far i'm happy with the build, still missing some bolts for brake adapters, stem spacers and cap, but the ride is great and that's what matters. Will follow up with info if anybody is interested.
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Really nice build. I'm still quite happy on my P9, but this frame has compatible guards chain stay protectors etc.. Which makes it really nice.
I noticed your Seat Angle is 65 deg, which is a pity, because my long legs will expose that weakness, and It ends up defining the climbing character quite a bit. One can possible take 2-3deg back by sliding the seat forward, but I'm not to keen for that.
Still, nice bike though. Wish they would get the seat tube angles right.
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The flip chip is set to lowest position, so in theory you should get 0,5° steeper seatpost angle if flipped but loose the slack headtube angle. Didn't try it though.
Edit: for the bottle holder bolts, I found this "rack" on Ali which should then accommodate even a 750ml bottle (with piggy back shock even the 500ml doesn't fit). Will see.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000453357310.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.5e944c4dP9dy08
Quite pricey but looks nicely made.
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Hi Bos...I think you are looking for the "effective seat angle" which wouldn't be 65 degrees.
If Mousey took a straight edge or a level and lined it up from the center of the bottom bracket to the seat mount...and then put his angle finder on that straight edge...you would get the effective seat angle.
Edit - seat would need to be at the normal riding position...not the slammed down dropper post position.
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Hi,
I am new here and I am very interested to buy this frame. Unfortunately AWST don't have this frame anymore and OBM I never heard before.
So Airwolf seems to be the last one ...any experience with the quality?
I am 178cm which size would fit fore me? I probably ride more uphill then downhill, it's not the perfect frame for this but.... I like it.
How can I fix new screws into the frame for a new position for the bottle holder? Is the frame EPS build?
I do not have many experience in bike building but done some repairs and changes, so sorry for some stupid question...
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Hi Bos...I think you are looking for the "effective seat angle" which wouldn't be 65 degrees.
If Mousey took a straight edge or a level and lined it up from the center of the bottom bracket to the seat mount...and then put his angle finder on that straight edge...you would get the effective seat angle.
Edit - seat would need to be at the normal riding position...not the slammed down dropper post position.
And so i did. The level finding thingy showed 71,85 or thereabout... Seat height from bb to the rails 75cm or top seat 80cm
Photo: https://1drv.ms/f/s!AodhshLG0I0gi65z0mIgP0_zyyVRvQ
Managed to get some dirt on the bike today. Still happy. Needs some fine tuning, but will get there.
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As a back up plan (I would rather go with a frame getting a steeper STA like FM1001 and SC clone but they appear to be quite "virtual" with no real possibilty to be bought), I'm ready to order this Stumpjumper clone.
Unfortunately, I'm without answer one week after having raised a pretty basic question to Airwolf (about custom painting possibility).
Hope this frame can be actually bought as some of you did.
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Hi spth7ch & Hugo...you are probably not getting answers from the AliExpress sellers because the Chinese New Year holiday which officially started on 2/12/21 essentially closes down all factory production for the month of February. Factory production ceases a week before that official date. Although March 1st is just around the corner...the factories face many more challenges than I think...we on the forum realize. I will post a link to this article explaining the challenges and they are eye opening to say the least. Apparently, many trained workers do not return to their factory jobs after the holiday...leaving the factory to hire and re-train replacements. Which would tell me that quality control may suffer on CF frames being produced during the month of March (and maybe beyond?)...this is not fact for any of the sellers we are discussing...just my own cautious belief based on what I am reading...you can decide for yourselves.
Here is the link to the article with a couple excerpts below:
https://www.chinaimportal.com/blog/chinese-new-year-impacts-import-business/
"While the official holiday is only lasting for roughly 5 working days, plus two weekends, most workers remain in their home provinces for an extra week or two. This explains why most suppliers are not back in business until two, sometimes even three, weeks after the Chinese New Years’ Eve. You will have a hard time getting in contact with any company representatives, including the salespeople, on CNY eve and the following days."
"Finding, and training, a new batch of workers provides new challenges of its own. Skilled workers are, to a certain degree, replaced by rookies. This is one, of two reasons, why the risk of quality issues is at its peak right after the end of the Chinese New Year. Every trade takes its own time to master."
I was lucky enough to get my order in with AWST Cycling Tatics thru AliExpress back in Jan before everything started to shut down. My frame has arrived in the U.S. (one week ago) as per the USPS tracking...but has not been delivered yet. I am assuming it is being held for customs inspections. Interesting enough...when Hugo mentioned that "AWST no longer has the frame"...I went and checked. Their store on AliExpress has no frames, wheels or any product available at all. Does this mean they went out of business?...or are they just pulling the products because they know there will be nobody available during the holidays to answer buyer questions or process orders. We have yet to see and I will let all of you know if I ever get the frame or not.
Let me close with my AirWolf experience. Before I ordered thru AWST...I started asking AirWolf (who is also "YaoFlying") about the stumpy clone. Asked if they had a medium in stock and could they ship it out by a certain date at the end of January 2021. They responded they could meet those requirements and I just needed to place my order and pay for the frame. I waited 1 day and just asked a follow up question regarding the timing of shipping it out before the CNY and the response I received was "we don't have Medium frames...only Large...we will not be producing them until next month. If you place your order now...you will be first to get one once Medium's are finished" I said to myself "next month" would be February...won't everything be closed down for the holiday? Then a day after we had this conversation...they raised the price of the frame from $780 to $856...so I backed away from AirWolf. Take that for what you will...I was a little dubious about their business practices. I know others have purchased frames from them (they have a presence on EBAY, Amazon and AliExpress) and have been happy with them.
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Just to update anyone who in interested...I did finally get the frame. Took approx. 6 weeks from day of payment to delivery. There was some drama with USPS at the end where the postman refused to deliver it to my home and wanted me to go sign for it at the post office. The shipping carton was severely crushed and he did not want to take responsibility. The post office would not allow me to open and inspect the contents before signing for the parcel. This is their policy..."no inspections allowed until you sign". Thankfully...the frame inside was not damaged.
Everything was included...Headset, QR Seatpost Clamp, Rear Derailleur, Chain Guide and Rear Axle. The frame was pre-routed with the plastic lines to pull both the shifter cable and rear brake hose thru the inside of the frame.
Quality looks good...they are incorrectly listing the Bottom Bracket width at 63mm...it is 73mm. There is one minor manufacturing flaw that I will have to resolve. One of the bearing bores (seat stay inside non-drive side horstlink) is just a couple thousands too large...so the bearing wiggles a bit...it does not fall out. I will try some carefully placed red Permatex thread lock to see if that solves the problem. As far as a warranty claim goes...AWST Cycling Tatics is still not showing any available product on their AliExpress store...so it remains to be determined if they are no longer selling under that name. I did some more digging and I think they may be AllStar Bicycle. The other 11 bearings fit tight. They ship the frame with metal shielded bearings...so I am swapping them for ones with rubber seals so I can clean an re-grease when needed.
Frame Weight "M":
Frame (with just the Derailleur Hanger attached) = 1,920 grams
Chain Guide = 49 grams
Headset Bearings (excluding that metal expansion plug) = 76 grams
QR Seatpost Clamp = 59 grams
Rear Axle = 44 grams
Total = 2,148 grams 8)
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Looks good
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Just spotted this pop up on AliExpress
￡562.82 | 2021 MTB EVO Frame Mountain-Bike-Frame Carbon-Suspension-Frame Boost-148mm 29er New MTB XC AM ENDURO Frameset
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKHLIEx
Info seems all wrong and contains a lot of pictures of shoes. But managed to find their website (I think)
https://amp.obmbicycle.com/Carbon-frame-chameleon-frame-manufacturers-wholesale-carbon-frame-chameleon-frame-c66239/
Anyone dealt with OBM Bicycle before? Wondering whether its worth a shot
I just bought a wheelset from OBMbicycle.com and anyone confirm they are not a fraud site?
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hi everyone,
I'm new on this forum and want to share a few info about this frame. Ordered in on december 23. recieved last week with DPD shipping or XDB whatever you call it - no tax had to be paid.
I had all the components (bar wheelsets) waiting at home so i could start assembly asap... but - they speciffy 190*50 or 160*50 rear shock - i went for 190*50. My frame is L size. I installed the shock and let all the pressure out to see where it stops - shocker... when rear triangle allready hit the seatpost the shock still had 10-12mm of travel left... So i fiddled around with caliper/measure tape and figgured it out that min length after the shock is compressed is 160mm and max is 210mm - so the only shock that is suitable in my opinion is 210*50mm - with that you have exactly 150mm of travel on the rear wheel. So the info they give out on the aliexpress seems to be wrong or the old design of the shock fork. anyways, i now ordered 210*50 shock.
The frame is really well made - of course i ordered all the oem items swus231 posted in #31 post - thanks! i did a hack paintjob and now waiting for the proper shock and wheels to check the ride. There are minor surface (I hope) dents/holes which the black paint hides really well so consider that when chosing your color choice.
Frame weighs 2190g painted - without seatpost clamp and chainguide.
Edit: i forgot to add, the headtube angle with 210mm shock and 160mm fork is around 65°
Do you think there's enough clearance to run a 210mmx55mm stroke shock?
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I just bought a wheelset from OBMbicycle.com and anyone confirm they are not a fraud site?
Hopefully you will be able to confirm that for all of us in a few weeks.
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Do you think there's enough clearance to run a 210mmx55mm stroke shock?
I don't think there is. As with 50mm stroke you only have 4-5 mm clearance on the seatpost to the swing arm: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AodhshLG0I0gi60D1S0BOJsq4ccteQ
I'm running 210x50 RS superdeluxe ultimate with a piggy back - can't fit bigger bottle than 500ml and that is with rail that moves the bottle lower and further back on the lower tube.
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I don't think there is. As with 50mm stroke you only have 4-5 mm clearance on the seatpost to the swing arm: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AodhshLG0I0gi60D1S0BOJsq4ccteQ
I'm running 210x50 RS superdeluxe ultimate with a piggy back - can't fit bigger bottle than 500ml and that is with rail that moves the bottle lower and further back on the lower tube.
That does look like it might hit with 5mm more stroke. How about when the shock is fully extended? Is there still room to push back the yoke? I was thinking it might be possible to use an offset bushing to add more room at bottom out. Thanks for taking the time to reply.
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It's around 4-5mm with flip-chip in lower position. If i flip it the yoke will be even closer.
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AodhshLG0I0gi7JaGEYKZz3_Si0_Zg
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Hi All,
New to the forum, and new to buying a Chinese carbon frame. Apologies for the long winded post...
I'm not worried out the quality issues, plenty of info here on that. And TBH even main stream brands had there issues when introducing Thermoplastic/ CF 20yrs ago, just look at the STS, of which I have the XCR 1000...
I love the look of this frame but it seems there are 2 versions. The one here which seems to be more like the 2019 EVO with a big kick in the top tube to the seat tube, whereas as this (https://rinascltabike.com/29er-carbon-mountain-bike-frame-110-travel/)version seems to have a flatter top tube like the 2021 Stumpie/EVO.
Both have geo more like the regular Stumpie, even though they have the pivot in the chain stay (EVO) and not the flex tube design of the Stumpie...
I am right or seeing this completely wrong?
However, that's actually fairly irrelevant, just an observation.
My main issue is with the new geo sizing.
I'm coming from a cramped M sized GT STS XCR 1000, which was always too small for me, but I had to have the frame... to modern geo. Unfortunately where I live there is no Specialized dealer I can jump on a bike and check sizes... So basing this purely on data, the Chinese copies / seem to have a large frame that is similar to a S3 size, albeit the stack is similar to an S5?. However, for my size 6'1"/ 186cm I'm recommended the S4.
So is there anybody of my height that's bought this frame and can give any feedback of fit? I know its an individual thing but any thoughts would be welcome. I am also aware coming from a cramped old school bike to this modern geo I should feel more stretched and comfortable on even the L/S3 frame than what I have now.
I'm also planning on doing a mullet bike build with a 27.5 rear and 29 front with a 150mm Fox fork which will reduce the reach further I believe, but am not sure, whilst at the same time dropping the BB height and slackening both head and seat angles. Another option I'm considering to getting closer to the EVO geo is installing a Works Component offset headset, but will only do this once the build is finished and I have ridden it and measure the geo.
Look forward to your thoughts and thanks for having me. ;D
Cheers
Guy
Look forward
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Welcome Guy!
Is this going to be your only bike? How comes that being 186cm tall you had a Medium GT?
Why mullet?
What kind of trails, and intended use you wanna do?
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Cheers @chetosmachine
Ultimately it will be my only bike when I put the GT to rest, or give it to one of my kids....
I got an M because I couldn't find a large in Germany at the time and figured I could live with it, which I did for 20 odd years. Basically stupidity.... But now I find the riding position cramped and giving me lower back pain as I can't get real comfortable... Hence deciding going for a new bike and I've always built my own.
Why mullet? I could say I'm sold on the theoretical advantages but really it's down to optics...
My riding is currently very easy as it's with the kids in Oman so not much in the way of trails nearby and bloody hot... However, we'll be returning to Europe (Munich) or heading to Toronto so want to build a suitable bike. I considered sticking with 120/120 travel XC bike but decided a little more travel might not be a bad thing. I'm not looking for a trail/ Enduro, rather a XC/trail bike with a representative weight for a good build.
And hence I landed here with this frame in mind as it fits the bill with a 140mm trace, lightweight and I like the optics of the EVO frame.
So there you are :D
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http://
Yeah it looks like the old Stumpy, unless you found a source with the new Stumpy frame. I'd be pretty interested in the new frame.
Is this what you're looking for? I think k this looks like the newer Stumpie, however geo looks the same.
https://rinascltabike.com/29er-carbon-mountain-bike-frame-110-travel/
Cheers
Guy
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I don't think there's two versions of the frame it's just the large sized frame has bigger kick at the seat tube (someone correct me if i'm wrong).
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ah ok. My error,must keep seeing Ms... Shame the M looks way better than the L....
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Hey guys, brand new to the site and I am about to order this frame with a custom paint job. However, I am still a little bit iffy on the sizing. I am 178cm tall (5 foot 10) and want something equivalent to an s4, as that is what the local bike shops have recommended to me. However, I noticed people here who are MUCH taller than me went with a medium. I was thinking the large is probably closest to the s4, and I'm just not sure which way to go. I am planning on pairing it with a fox 36 grip 2 with 160mm of travel. Thanks in advance!
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Hey Guys,
I had discounted this frame as it offers too much travel, I'm looking for 120mm. I probably don't need it and could live with the Ican S3 and its 110mm (with a longer stroke shock). However, I could then not increase travel if I wanted to... Not to mention this frame seems marginally lighter and looks sooo much better nd the fact OEM parts fit are a massive bonus.
So I reread this thread and noticed that the yoke (shock length extension as Specialized describe it) has changed from the 115/118mm to the 95/98mm model to allow the larger 210mm shock. So checking their website the yokes seem interchangeable. Therefore I presume I can buy their ST yoke and use the prescribed 190x42.5mm shock to get 120mm travel?
Does this make sense to anybody? Further, as I want to mullet the bike, I could use their mullet pivot to keep the geo spot on. Again does this make sense?
This would then allow me to convert back to the standard parts for longer travel in the future or give a new owner the options.
Also, whilst AWST seem responsive on the Aliexpress messaging board, they seem to want to rip me off, so does anybody have an email or skype that works and could pm it to me. The problem lies with shipping. They want to charge US$280 to Dubai when Aliexpress say its US$5 with their own shipping. From there I'd need to ship to Oman as the rates to here are between US$500 and US$1500!!!
I thinks that's it for now... No doubt have more out of the box (crazy) questions in due course ;D
Cheers
Guy
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whats the mullet pivot?
Does this effectively reduce the seat stay length also and raise BB?
I want to build one as a 150mm 27.5 bike, not 29..but there are no 27.5 frames available apparently from any vendor.
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whats the mullet pivot?
Does this effectively reduce the seat stay length also and raise BB?
I want to build one as a 150mm 27.5 bike, not 29..but there are no 27.5 frames available apparently from any vendor.
As I understand it (probably wrongly) is that the mullet pivot would correct the geometry of the rear triangle to run a 27.5 rear and 29er front. If you wanted 27.5 front you'll would have to lengthen the fork travel to compensate for the smaller wheel diameter. Assuming you use same tyre size on the 29er and 27.5 front then only rim size is different. The difference is 19mm on the radius, so theoretically you'd need a 20mm longer fork to compensate for the 27.5 front.
However this doesn't take into account that the fork is at an angle, this reducing the vertical height gained, or the change in offset that will also have minimal impact on the geo. Plus things like HTA, STA, reach etc may also change marginally if you put a 20mm longer fork with a 27.5, over a 29er with the designed fork crown to axle length.
Hope that's right.
EDITED: Grammar and spelling.
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whats the mullet pivot?
Does this effectively reduce the seat stay length also and raise BB?
I want to build one as a 150mm 27.5 bike, not 29..but there are no 27.5 frames available apparently from any vendor.
Ican p9 can be built up in 27.5 @ 150mm
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Yep, short in reach and heard too many issues even with the extra Evolve qc so prefer to avoid.
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Can you list those issues with the P9?
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Yep, short in reach and heard too many issues even with the extra Evolve qc so prefer to avoid.
Would really like to hear issues as well, did a lot of research before starting my p9 build and have seen very little/no issues
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I've raised an order to Airwolf (through Aliexpress) and received the frame.
Even if the bike is not yet built (I miss the Hunt bike wheels), it's time for first feedback.
Pros :
- communication was smooth
- paint quality is nice (but not perfect)
- additional parts were received as expected : headset, rear axle, chain guide, seat post clamp (really bulky)
- original Specialized chainstay protector (S186900003) fits like a glove
- delivery was pretty fast : order placed 4th of March / frame received 8th of April
Cons :
- As received, friction for some pivots (circled in green on the schematic) is incredibily high. Basically, it's a hardtail.
Of course, it's a problem.
It also means that no quality control is performed.
For swingarm main pivot (problem was only on left side) : I managed to fix it by myself (I put an additional homemade washer between the bearing and the spacer).
By using original Specialized hardware, problem also is fixed. It seems improvement is procured by different shape in spacers.
Another great improvement provided by Specialized is integrated seal in bolts.
For pivots between S-Link, use of original Specialized hardware improves the situation. However, it's still far from providing a smooth rotation.
Airwolf told me that they'll send 2 spacers. I'm dubious but who knows.
- there's a thread in left chainstay for brake hose clamp. Clamp is not provided (it's not told to be provided) and I can't find the original Specialized part. I think I'll adapt a Fox fork clamp.
- Bottom bracket is told to be BSA 68mm. Actually it's BSA 73mm. No consequence for me but strange/disapointing that such a basic information goes wrong.
- swingarm main pivot : for Specialized model, on right side you've a left-hand thread. On Airwolf model, it's a standard right-hand thread. You can't use the Specialized bolt (but you can transfer the seal from Specialized bolt to Airwolf bolt).
- seems that Specialized model has 3 no head screws for the internal routing. You don't have thread in Airwolf model.
- downtube protector : Specialized S184200063 may work but I don't see how to set it in position. I'll probably have to go with glue.
- Headset assembly is not totally clear for me : bearings OK crown race OK split compression ring OK Top cover OK. Spacers between top bearing and top cover ? Seal position ???????
Price paid :
868 $ for frame + delivery to France using standard Aliexpress shipment
+ extra 30 $ for metallic paint
+ extra 96 $ for express shipment (I was told that this express shipment will be done with DHL : it was not true : wxy-express was used / I was told that this express shipment will avoid custom tax : it was true)
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that black seal likely sits in the headset top cap (top right)
P9 issues, sample size of 2 owners, 2 warrantys each. Head tube tolerance and de bonded thread inserts.
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that black seal likely sits in the headset top cap (top right)
P9 issues, sample size of 2 owners, 2 warrantys each. Head tube tolerance and de bonded thread inserts.
Hopefully won't run into any of said issues with my build, headtube tolerance? As in headtube snapping off or cracking?
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My P9 is perfect and going to be 3 years in june.
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"headtube tolerance"
Not round in these cases.
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Pros :
- communication was smooth
- paint quality is nice (but not perfect)
- additional parts were received as expected : headset, rear axle, chain guide, seat post clamp (really bulky)
- original Specialized chainstay protector (S186900003) fits like a glove
- delivery was pretty fast : order placed 4th of March / frame received 8th of April
Where did you order the Chainstay protector? Can you give me the link?
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"headtube tolerance"
Not round in these cases.
Not an issue with mine thankfully, have a Chris king dropset sitting nicely in it
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Where did you order the Chainstay protector? Can you give me the link?
I placed my order to : https://www.cingolanibikeshop.com/
It seems that you can also order to : https://webshop.bestbike.de/
As far as I remember, shipping cost are pretty high in both cases.
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Its been a while since I posted to this thread and since I had some people PM me regarding how I handled the cable exit port, I wanted to share my 2 cents:
-Specialized uses a a rubber sleeve which serves as the perfect transition as it encloses the cables from the downtube to the chainstays as well as keeping any dirt and water from entering the frame, I tried to source the part but was unable to find it anywhere.
-In the end I figured out to use something to plug the hole, so I looked for some firewall oval rubber grommets over Amazon, fit them to the frame and made 2 holes for the cables to pass.
So far it has worked quite well, no debris nor water inside frame and does not look bat at all.
Hopefully someone will find this useful :)
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Its been a while since I posted to this thread and since I had some people PM me regarding how I handled the cable exit port, I wanted to share my 2 cents:
-Specialized uses a a rubber sleeve which serves as the perfect transition as it encloses the cables from the downtube to the chainstays as well as keeping any dirt and water from entering the frame, I tried to source the part but was unable to find it anywhere.
-In the end I figured out to use something to plug the hole, so I looked for some firewall oval rubber grommets over Amazon, fit them to the frame and made 2 holes for the cables to pass.
So far it has worked quite well, no debris nor water inside frame and does not look bat at all.
Hopefully someone will find this useful :)
Great idea. Looks like a really easy solution.
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Or if you want the actual part...you need to order it from a Specialized Dealer...they are not available on line....cost me $5
Rubber Boot for BB Access Port (S206500002)
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So, I finally after much back and forth bought this frame from AWST at the end of April and it arrived today in Muscat, Oman. ;D
I got them to ship to Hong Kong (free) and from there via Aramex Shop and Ship to Oman for US$50 with no VAT or other taxes applied. RESULT :D
Still waiting for the wheels though... Also, the service wasn't great. Even taking into account language barriers. Threats were made to recall the frame and charge double for shipping again etc. All because they failed to request an extension to the automated shipping date and a refund was processed. Ultimately, I could have gotten the frame for free as it had already shipped from Aramex by the time they raise the issue to me. They also missed their promised shipping date, 9 May, for everything by 10 days. I did pay again and the wheels are still not shipped but hey ho...
So here are a couple of photos:
(https://i.imgur.com/fHTMiAi.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/mPrPMmu.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/ds5Bw6l.jpg?1)
Overall, I'm pretty impressed with the build and the quality of the finish, with no imperfections, but, a little over run on the BB etc. It will be partially repainted to have a gloss black rear triangle and partial front triangle al a Specialized. I'm doing this locally as they wanted a small fortune for the dual colour.
I'll weigh the frame and components tonight and post then. Frame is size L.
Then once done I'll start assembling the bike. No rush as its 40C/104F outside now... >:(
Cheers All
Guy
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That color looks great. Looking forward to seeing your build.
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Thanks Robert
Long way to go as there is a real shortage of parts currently, at least at a reasonable price.... Managed to source a 150mm RS Revelation from Australia and a cheap rear shock from the States. Also, ordered the Specialized parts recommended here. So there's a start...
The rest will hopefully come from Europe. Unfortunately there's almost nothing available here in the Middle East so have to ship everything in, which makes it way more expensive >:(
Cheers
Guy
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So lots of people seem interested in the weight.
As it stands the painted frame with everything removed (chain guide, derailleur hanger, seat post clamp, rear shock hardware etc) weighs in at 1990g for a large.
Add those items back in and it reaches 2,315g. So spot on that quoted on Aliexpress.
Now, I like a lighter bike but not at any cost. EG I not paying US$100s more to save 50g. However, I see 3 items where I can save some weight cheaply or for free. These is the huge headset compression 'plug' which I don't need and will replace with a star nut. I won't install the chain guide as I don't think I'll need it. And finally the seat post clamp which is huge. I recon between the 3 items I can shave off around 140g, or 6% of the frame weight.
This will be offset by the down tube and chain stay protectors so pretty good.
For the rest of the build I'm going largely with SRAM and RaceFace components. The major exceptions being the dropper post (eventually) which will be a 150mm job from One Components and possibly brakes which may be 2/4 pot options from Shimano.
Target is weight 11.5kg and total cost including shipping of US$3,000 max.
Let's see how that goes.
Cheers
Guy
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So I took the plunge and ordered all the remaining parts from a Germany online store. Not VAT and relatively cheap ship to Middle East for what I ordered.
The build will be:
Frame: Stumpie clone large discolouration grey
Wheels: AWST carbon with XD freehub Boost
Suspension Fork: 2021 RS Revelation 150mm matt black
Rear shock: X-Fusion O2 RL 210x55mm
Brakes: Shimano SLX 4 pot (already own)
Seatpost: RS Reverb Stealth 150mm - bargain EUR240 :D
Seat: Selle Italia (already own)
Seat Clamp: Wolf Tooth 38.6mm
BB: SRAM DUB BSA
Crankset: Trutativ Descendant Carbon TLD 175mm - bargain EUR275 :D
Cassette & Chain: SRAM X1 11speed 10-42
Shifter: SRAM Gripshift GX Red
Brake Discs: Magura 6 bolt 160/180mm
Stem: RaceFace Atlas 60mm
Handlebar: RaceFace Next Riser (already own)
Tyres: Continental Cross King 2.30
Bottle Relocation: Wolftooth BRad-2
Headset: AWST but with regular star nut
Derailleur hanger: AWST
Pedals: Either Shimano Saint, or no brand flats (already own)
All up the above cost me US$3200 with shipping and comes in without tube fluids etc at 11.2.kg so all up should be below the 11.5kg I loosely set. Price a little over budget but that's largely down to the RS Reverb that I bought and wasn't planning to buy initially, but the deal was too good to refuse.
Now the waiting begins....
Cheers
Guy
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Interested to know what Aussie shop you got the Rev from? I'm in Sydney and prices are ridiculous and postage is even worse so it must have been a good price to have it compete with O/S pricing.
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Emu26,
I paid over the odds tbh, it was AUD880 shipped to Oman without 10% GST. However MRSP in Europe is EUR549 which is approx. AUD870, however they were offering it online for AUD530 ex VAT but with a delivery date pushed from mid May to August 2021.
The shop in Australia was called Cyclinic in QLD and retail price was AUD779 + GST, so AUD856.90 for local purchase.
The problem is there are NO forks available here and European shops are not officially allowed to ship to Middle East directly for certain products like RockShox and Shimano, so I would have had to pay 20% VAT and shipping to get a fork here from Europe.
For a similar price I could have got a RS Domain, but that weighs 2.3kg so 300g heavier. For less money a Judy 35. Fox forks are all priced at EUR900 ex VAT and I wasn't prepared to pay that.
Another problem was availability as touched on above. Most shops have hardly any stock and don't honestly know when they'll get stock so for MTB parts it's a sellers market currently.
Cheers
Guy
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I woulda sold you a slightly used xf mcqueen rcp for less, with shipping :)
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I woulda sold you a slightly used xf mcqueen rcp for less, with shipping :)
Oh well, I actually looked at those but thought they were only for 27.5+ wheels not 29ers...
But ultimately I'm a bit of a RockShox guy, only ever having diverted with a Pace for my GTZaskar LE and. VOTEC Air 2 for my GT STS XCR...
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Hi All,
Can anybody point me in the direction of good quality replica decals for the frame?
Ideally looking for gloss black. I've seen loads on eBay and elsewhere, but kit sure of quality. Looking for the "Transfers type not the thicker vinyl type
Thanks
Guy
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Guy - I've had good luck on Etsy. Ordered a bunch of decals from many different sellers and never had an issue.
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Guy - I've had good luck on Etsy. Ordered a bunch of decals from many different sellers and never had an issue.
Cheers Robert will give that a try
Also, what year is this frame based on? Is it the stock Stumpie from 2019?
Thanks
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Hey guys
i‘ve one Frame ordernd too, it Took a while to be shiped (ordernd end of April via Ali) now it’s on it’s way.
Has anyone tried to cut off the swatbox?
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So the day of reckoning has come...
All the parts are here, except the wheels which should be ready to collect tomorrow.
Unfortunately, here in Oman nobody wanted to touch the frame to paint it and I'm not prepared to give it a go and screw it up. So, I'm going to build it as it is and then look to getting it painted once I've moved to Germany.
Here a couple of pics of the parts to hand. Will post the others once the wheels have arrived. For those interested in weight, I'll weigh all parts separately and then the whole bike once completed to give an approx measure for the the weight of incidentals like grease, tubeless liquid, tape etc.
(https://i.imgur.com/galHzg5.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/byN9qsE.jpg?1)
I'll build the bike over the next week I guess as pretty busy at work and planning the move to Germany with the family. Will also be challenged as I don't have a workshop stand so could be an interesting build....
Enjoy
Guy
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Good luck with the build. Don't get too caught up on not having a stand. Internal cables first, then seat post and saddle, forks stem and bars. Flip the bike and build the rest of it upside down.
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Good luck with the build. Don't get too caught up on not having a stand. Internal cables first, then seat post and saddle, forks stem and bars. Flip the bike and build the rest of it upside down.
It's the internal cables that will be interesting... but looking forward to it. First new bike in 20 years.... Going to be a totally different ride.
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Charts, Today my Frame came.
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Hi All,
Quick question, what size rotor does the frame use on the rear? Is it 160mm or 180mm?
Thanks in advance.
Guy
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I was told it’s 160mm, i‘ll install 180mm
Here my Part List i‘ll Go with
Fork Fox 36grip2 (2019 160mm)
Damper Fox Float x2 (2021 210/50)
Brake magura mt5 (203/180)
Seatpost specialized
Wheels dtswiss M 1700 spline
Sram nx groupset
Rest i‘ll search in my lost and found Boxes
Now i‘m waiting for some Parts and Protection foil. First thing i did was disasambling everthing. The bearings Are Not Made for dirt, these came with a Metal Seal. No Bolt was greased and set with loctite.
The Paintjob Looks Good only Part where it’s Not Good is like the other Said at the bearing an screw points. The headset cap won‘t work there is also a Spacer missing. That‘s it for now Hope the Post man will bring the rest till weekend Starts.
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Hi All,
Quick question, what size rotor does the frame use on the rear? Is it 160mm or 180mm?
Thanks in advance.
Guy
Rear disc is 180mm post-mount, you cannot go smaller than that.
Cheers!
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Hey guys
i‘ve one Frame ordernd too, it Took a while to be shiped (ordernd end of April via Ali) now it’s on it’s way.
Has anyone tried to cut off the swatbox?
Not possible, carbon layout in that area is not thick enough, it will compromise the frame structural integrity.
PD: For those wondering, I got a front triangle replacement due to a faulty bolt shock tab; so I decided to experiment with the old triangle :)
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Not possible, carbon layout in that area is not thick enough, it will compromise the frame structural integrity.
PD: For those wondering, I got a front triangle replacement due to a faulty bolt shock tab; so I decided to experiment with the old triangle :)
Swuw231,
Thanks for that. This confirms exactly what I feared. They save on the carbon fibre as they weren't providing the cut-out.
On another matter. Did you have issues using the Specialized rear shock hardware? I note you said it was a tight fit, but I actually have 2 issues.
1. The front bolt is too long. No biggie as I'll just use the one supplied by AWST.
2. The flip chip doesn't fit into the eyelet of the shock. I've removed the bushing from the X-Fusion O2 Pro but the flip chip is too big. Am I rignt in gussing it was designed for a larger diameter bushing?
I'll get around this by using a cut back spare bushing I have and the stock bolt, but, just wondering how to resolve this problem. I'm guessing the only way is to get a rear shock with larger bushing size?
Cheers
Guy
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I was told it’s 160mm, i‘ll install 180mm
Here my Part List i‘ll Go with
Fork Fox 36grip2 (2019 160mm)
Damper Fox Float x2 (2021 210/50)
Brake magura mt5 (203/180)
Seatpost specialized
Wheels dtswiss M 1700 spline
Sram nx groupset
Rest i‘ll search in my lost and found Boxes
Now i‘m waiting for some Parts and Protection foil. First thing i did was disasambling everthing. The bearings Are Not Made for dirt, these came with a Metal Seal. No Bolt was greased and set with loctite.
The Paintjob Looks Good only Part where it’s Not Good is like the other Said at the bearing an screw points. The headset cap won‘t work there is also a Spacer missing. That‘s it for now Hope the Post man will bring the rest till weekend Starts.
Great thanks Goodzilla, I also got confirmation after a few days that it's a 160mm on the rear. Which is fine for me.
Nice set-up by the way. I'll be doing the same and stripping it back before building it up.
Good luck with the postman... I've finally got all my parts and it's turning into a frankenbike to some extent due to parts availability and my stupidity in ordering parts ;D
Cheers
Guy
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Yeah postman came in today with all three missing orders there wäre original specialized Parts and some Frame Cover and another Headset but what i See is that the hole for the bearing is set to Deep so no Upper bearing would fit with ist top cap so i‘m thinking about using 2k repair to remold the upper seat of the bearing.
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Not possible, carbon layout in that area is not thick enough, it will compromise the frame structural integrity.
PD: For those wondering, I got a front triangle replacement due to a faulty bolt shock tab; so I decided to experiment with the old triangle :)
That’s some bad news but i‘can accept it
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Swuw231,
Thanks for that. This confirms exactly what I feared. They save on the carbon fibre as they weren't providing the cut-out.
On another matter. Did you have issues using the Specialized rear shock hardware? I note you said it was a tight fit, but I actually have 2 issues.
1. The front bolt is too long. No biggie as I'll just use the one supplied by AWST.
2. The flip chip doesn't fit into the eyelet of the shock. I've removed the bushing from the X-Fusion O2 Pro but the flip chip is too big. Am I rignt in gussing it was designed for a larger diameter bushing?
I'll get around this by using a cut back spare bushing I have and the stock bolt, but, just wondering how to resolve this problem. I'm guessing the only way is to get a rear shock with larger bushing size?
Cheers
Guy
Yes, front bolt is longer (~5mm) I ended cutting it down to size; for the rear I saw no issues with the flip chip, I got it mounted into a Fox shock (I don't think eyelet diameters are different), it goes without any shock mounting hardware nor bushing.
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I‘m very buisy with work these days but a little upgrade I made and installed the downtube protector fits perfect. I Drilles in 2 holes and screwed it on the frame.
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Here it is I’m almost finished with the build a little Setup on the suspension and bleed the frontbrake left over.
It ended having 13,85 kg and I don‘t went with that super lightest parts like my nx parts I had left from another bike and some other parts ;D
Sometimes i left everthing in downstairs and went to bed before I throw everthing away
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Can anyone confirm a rear 210x55 shock will result in 150mm of rear travel? Thinking of scrapping my AM831 build as it is taking a little longer than I'd like to ship the frame, and all of the parts except the BB will transfer over to this frame.
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So couple of photos of the finished build per say...
Things still to be done are:
1. Cut down the front rear shock bolt.
2. Remove bushes from rear shock so flip chip fits.
In both cases thanks @swuw2331
Other all good, rides well but will take some getting used to coming from a 26er... especially the slower but more nervous steering resulting from the bigger front wheel and shorter stem.
(https://i.imgur.com/JxSMmDd.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/m8LQgcq.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/Li1Ec7E.jpg?1)
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So here is my finished product
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Anyone having issues with the front shock mount bolt? Mine snapped right where it threads in to the frame :-\
While browsing around I stumbled across this;
https://geracycles.com/2020-SPECIALIZED-STUMPJUMPER-EVO-CARBON-29-FRAMESET-ssecf29
Pretty sweet deal for a carbon frame and shock, Making me think of ditching current as ASWT are not warrantying the part...
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Anyone having issues with the front shock mount bolt? Mine snapped right where it threads in to the frame :-\
While browsing around I stumbled across this;
https://geracycles.com/2020-SPECIALIZED-STUMPJUMPER-EVO-CARBON-29-FRAMESET-ssecf29
Pretty sweet deal for a carbon frame and shock, Making me think of ditching current as ASWT are not warrantying the part...
You won't get anything from Gera. They're fraudsters
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I just bought a wheelset from OBMbicycle.com and anyone confirm they are not a fraud site?
Can we continue here about that store. I noticed that some of you bought from them.
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3354.0.html
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So I’ve finished the build a few weeks ago, suspension is set up and I’ve made a few runs with it. For my poor legs I took a 30tooth chainring it climbs very well. Me and my friends doing only 1k hm tours and riding the rough trails down it works great but it was a hard way to fix everthing ;).
I took the original specialized bearing kit and bolt hardware but I had to build me some spacers to get out the play of the rear triangle. That was only an issue with the specialized hardware. For the headset I bought also a higher quality one and took one 2,1 mm Spacer to fix the gap on the upper bearing and cap. I don‘t recommend building this one without mechanical background there are lots of small problems coming up here and there. But if you master them you’ll become a cool bike working well
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You won't get anything from Gera. They're fraudsters
Thank you - I had suspicions...
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I created an account just to post here. For anybody that gets one of these, some advice;
By the time you're done you've likely gone more than half way to the cost of the genuine frame. I regret my purchase and don't think I'll ever be "happy" with the bike.
If you really want to there are some things you *need* to do before riding it, I snapped several linkage pins before working this out.
Basically, the frame is a good copy externally. It's nowhere near as stiff though, that's the main problem. It hates side loads.
Any sideways deflection on the back end is transferred to the top shock mount, this results in failures of the top pin. Even after taking some precautions against this, more paint is missing from that area of the frame every time I use it. I doubt it has long left.
This issue is exaggerated by using a specializerd "flip chip" as lower mounting hardware, as it removes the slight pivot a bushing provides.
1) Replace the bearings that come with the frame, they have loads of play. I used some loctite on the outer race as the fit is quite loose.
2) Don't use the flip chip, instead install a needle bearing in the lower eyelet (enduro, get the narrowest one they sell, I had to grind it down a bit). This doesn't help with the flex but protects the top mount a bit.
These changes go some way to mitigating the problem but there's still too much flex in my opinion. I suppose you might get away with it if you're on the lighter side.
Other things;
1) Definitely install the specialized chainstay protector and some kind of downtube protector. The downtube is really thin.
2) Use jagwire foam internal routing tubes.
3) Replace the seat clamp (wolf tooth, mentioned previously). The stock one touches the tire.
4) Cover the gap between the bottom bracket and chainstays where the pivot is. Rocks get into the gap and dirt gets into the bottom bracket. Flex tape works.
5) Take care with dropper post insertion. Don't fully "bottom out" the post in the frame. When you feel it stop, pull back a bit. If you bottom the post out, the actuation mechanism is touching (or close to touching) the pivot that goes through the seat tube. It can interfer with the actuator and if the post slips can cause damage. Make sure the clamp is good and tight.
I've got quite a few hours on the bike now and I have to say, every time I ride it I end up stopping at least once because it "doesn't feel right". Like the back wheel is loose, or a crank arm, headset. There's just so much flex.
I do like the geo. The large seat tube size is really good, all frames should do this. Very little play in the dropper.
In summary, I wish I'd got the genuine frame. With all the extra bits, the many hours of work involved, the cost isn't far off.
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miles,
Sorry to hear of your troubles. hopefully the AM831 doesn't have much of your side flexing issues :(
I wonder if your 'other things' also apply to other chinese carbon bike frames? will have to keep them in mind...
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miles,
Sorry to hear of your troubles. hopefully the AM831 doesn't have much of your side flexing issues :(
I wonder if your 'other things' also apply to other chinese carbon bike frames? will have to keep them in mind...
The rear triangle is carbon, the flex is because if this - anything you buy from china that is carbon will have a carbon triangle.
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The rear triangle is carbon, the flex is because if this - anything you buy from china that is carbon will have a carbon triangle.
uh.........no. Aluminum rear triangles also flex.
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uh.........no. Aluminum rear triangles also flex.
This.
Unwanted sideways (lateral) flex in the rear triangle of a carbon frame is down to either poor pivot design, poor workmanship or poor layup design. Some are designed to have vertical flex, think "flex stays" but that is different.
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Hi Everyone,
Just ordered this frame for my first own bike build,
I can't seem to find it on the specs list on Ali Express nor on the posts in this thread, perhaps I am just missing it, but has someone perhaps have the maximum seat post insertion length measured?
Thanks in advance.
Edit : So Airwolf responded to my message an notified me the maximum insertion length is 17-18cm, but if anyone else has the actual measurement it would be very helpfull.
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Maybe I can help you I’ve ridden mine rough downhills and there is no flex but some of spacers and bearing have to be shimmed to end with no play and smooth moving
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Hi guys, I’m new owner from Malaysia here. I order my frame on July got it on august due to shortage of hubs.. and just built up, almost complete waiting for downtube bb protector, chain stay wrap
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Hello everyone!
Assembled a bike on a frame from AirWolf. I waited a very long time for production (one and a half months), and then another 3.5 weeks of delivery. I turned to him because of the promises to make any color (I wanted the blue SJ 2019 Expert), but it turned out that he can only do a few templates. He applies the logo and text with a sticker, not under the varnish.
The terrible quality of the metal inside the thread in the frame, one bolt turned (the frame was sent to me disassembled due to the restrictions of the postal service on the dimensions of the parcel), but at a risk, I put it on the blue thread lock. Perhaps I will order a new bolt from the turner, since the thread in the frame is deep, and the screw (similar to the original one) uses only ~ 7mm of it.
I took a RockShox rear shock, ordered an original flip chip, and here is the first failure - it does not fit the Chinese link (EXTENSION). The height of the flip chip is about 16mm, and the groove in the link is 13.7mm. Using physical force, I inserted a shock absorber into the link, but it looks unsafe. I ordered a 14mm bushing for an 8mm bolt. The original bolt for the upper mounting of the shock absorber was too long, shortened it by 3mm (this was reported above in the topic). I also ordered a 21.8x6mm top mount bushing, and it fits much better than the included bushing (it got loose). So if you use an RS shock absorber, then order 21.8x6 and 14x8 bushings right away, you will save a lot of nerves. I would be grateful if you could recommend FOX hubs (I only use RS on my bikes and am not familiar with FOX).
I did not succeed in closing the cable routing hole as in the tips above (with a rubber plug). I sealed the place with a protective film, made a hole in it, and pulled the cables through them.
The original chain guard fit perfectly, as did the axle. I also used another clamp, the Chinese one is huge (and heavy).
Depth for seat post approx. 170-175mm (frame size L).
After assembly, as in the photo (without bottle), the weight came out 12.85kg
The RS Super Deluxe shock has a very large reservoir can, which interferes with a 750mm bottle with a cap. I'm thinking of putting Fox on, it has a smaller tank :)
P.S. Sorry for my english (google) :)
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I buy such frame in L size and white color from another aliexpress seller.
Briefly:
This is high modulus carbon frame like original SJ MY19.
But... i kill tread on one rear bolt (M12 body and M11x1 tread) - make new from В95Т1 alloy on home lathe.
Top eye shock M6x1 bolt was 90 degree champfer, but frame (as original) have 120 degree champfer... make new from В95Т1 alloy on home lathe.
There is no holes for place hosings in middle tube (as in original manual), but SWAT hile is absent and all housing plased in bottom tube.
I buy dropper OneUp v2 180mm. Frame have slight problem to place dropper more than 17cm, but i cut 1mm from diameter of dropper ass and get 22 cm!
Original bolts have rubber seal, i simple print TPU seal on printer.
Complect seat post clamp have ~40.5mm diameter instead 38.6mm, buy right item on aliexpress.
Original flipchip have big size and you need mill additional space in yoke if you whant it. As i understand that tight flipchip block bottom eye frop any rotation. But default china yoke set in "XC" position - not bad choice.
Geometry precisely mathed to info by aliexpress lots! But have no such geometries in linkage web base. See attached *.itx file for linkageX3 software.
For this frame maximum drive chain about 32T, but pedal efficiency at this 90..80%, if you move gravity mass to front - efficiency increase. I think that 28T (or may be 26T oval) and 9..42T cog wery good variant - for 28T drive antisquat about 100..110%.
Positives:
$800
Nice look.
Light weight (may be it good moment).
Compatible with "old" common 210x55 shox - simple to find in sale section.
Negatives:
No SWAT! $(
No frame guards (use 3d printer...)
Decals above paint lyers. I use oraguard anti stone TPU film.
Frame have very thin wall in BB link region - may be this is normal, but...
(http://)
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Hello from Russia!
I buy such frame in L size and white color from another aliexpress seller.
Briefly:
This is high modulus carbon frame like original SJ MY19.
But... i kill tread on one rear bolt (M12 body and M11x1 tread) - make new from В95Т1 alloy on home lathe.
Top eye shock M6x1 bolt was 90 degree champfer, but frame (as original) have 120 degree champfer... make new from В95Т1 alloy on home lathe.
There is no holes for place hosings in middle tube (as in original manual), but SWAT hile is absent and all housing plased in bottom tube.
I buy dropper OneUp v2 180mm. Frame have slight problem to place dropper more than 17cm, but i cut 1mm from diameter of dropper ass and get 22 cm!
Original bolts have rubber seal, i simple print TPU seal on printer.
Complect seat post clamp have ~40.5mm diameter instead 38.6mm, buy right item on aliexpress.
Original flipchip have big size and you need mill additional space in yoke if you whant it. As i understand that tight flipchip block bottom eye frop any rotation. But default china yoke set in "XC" position - not bad choice.
Geometry precisely mathed to info by aliexpress lots! But have no such geometries in linkage web base. See attached *.itx file for linkageX3 software.
For this frame maximum drive chain about 32T, but pedal efficiency at this 90..80%, if you move gravity mass to front - efficiency increase. I think that 28T (or may be 26T oval) and 9..42T cog wery good variant - for 28T drive antisquat about 100..110%.
Positives:
$800
Nice look.
Light weight (may be it good moment).
Compatible with "old" common 210x55 shox - simple to find in sale section.
Negatives:
No SWAT! $(
No frame guards (use 3d printer...)
Decals above paint lyers. I use oraguard anti stone TPU film.
Frame have very thin wall in BB link region - may be this is normal, but...
(http://)
Good job making everything work correctly.
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After riding the trail, I checked the bolts on the lower links on the frame. They destroyed the threads and turned effortlessly in it. I ordered new bolts, longer ones, as the threads in the frame are much deeper. At the same time, I changed the bearings to normal ones (2RS), there were bearings that were not intended for such conditions (sand was clogged in them after the first trips).
The bottom shock absorber bushing 14 * 8 fits perfectly into place, much stronger than a flip chip.
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Where did you buy bolts like those?
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Where did you buy bolts like those?
Hello! I ordered the bolts to be made by a craftsman who has a lathe.
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Hello! I ordered the bolts to be made by a craftsman who has a lathe.
I should have guessed. Thank you.
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Hello! I ordered the bolts to be made by a craftsman who has a lathe.
Do you remember what stainless steel they did use ?
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Do you remember what stainless steel they did use ?
Bolts made of aluminum, not steel.
The original bolts (specialized) are made of aluminum, and so are the Chinese ones. The master said that the Chinese bolts with a tapered thread, it is less than necessary for the M12x1.
P.S. I also asked to make it a hexagon 6, not 8. And now all the bolts and the axle can be tightened with one tool.
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Finally got all my parts together now just going to build it out,
Frame : Medium
Fork : 2019 Fox Rhythm 36 (160mm) got the parts to go to 150mm if needed
Rear Shock : RockShox Deluxe Ultimate RCT Rear Shock - 210 x 50mm
Wheels : Syncros 2.0
Dropper post : Specialized Command Post Wu 150mm drop
Pedals : Crankbrothers stamp3
Groupset Including brakes and rotors : SHimano SLX M7100 (160mm rotor at back and 180mm rotor in front)
Bar : Rapide Hi Rizer bar (35mm)
Stem : Lyne Amp35 Alloy stem
Grips : Rapide Isolator Lock on grips
Saddle : Rapide TF 147 Saddle
I also bought the bearings, flipchip, downtube protection and Chainstay protector from specialized. Still deciding if I will be using the flip chip or the new bushing I have ordered to fit without using the flip chip.
Will put up some pictures once it has been built.
Thank for all the info in this thread.
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Please, check inner shim between couples of 6801 bearings in rear node - my frame have no this in stock condition. Also some bearings have loose fit and need locktite.
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I have been following this thread for a while now, thinking about a 3rd Chinese carbon frame, I am currently on a Ican P9.
I must say, this frame seems to have a lot of little niggles. I'm in South Africa, and currently, supply is low on a lot of stuff, so not the time to be doing anything silly.
The P9's are pretty sorted. Solid out the box. Mine is almost 2 years old and it hasn't given me a moment of issues. The Geo is slightly dated, mostly the HA.
Can anyone give some ride reviews? The SA on these also look pretty slack?
Thanks
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Hi Everyone,
To those who have built it up what torque specs did you use for the frame bolts, linkage etc?
Thank is advance
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There is sj manual...
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There is sj manual...
Thank you, I did go and check on the SJ manual. Just wasn't sure if I could use this same specs for the chinese carbon frame. Airwolf is also absolutely useless in this regard, when I question them on it they say everything should be torqued 5-7nm :o
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20Nm for m12x1 tread - it is no so high value. You may set 5Nm and use threadlocker for save "soft aluminum".
For example sketch of bottom link...
(http://)
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The manual contains large values of the moment, I doubt that the Chinese materials will withstand them.
Replaced the lower shock absorber bushing by 15mm, because of the grooves in the link (for the flip chip), the 14mm bushing did not provide good retention. I changed the shock absorber to a simplified "deluxe" so that a thermos could be placed in the bottle holder, for driving in winter :)
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So overall how are ye finding this frame? What where the major issues?
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So overall how are ye finding this frame? What where the major issues?
My first ride with it will be this weekend, will report back then.
For me the build went quite easily. I went with the bushings as suggested in page 11 of the forum for the rearshock, I have the flip chip but opted for the fixed bushing rather. It did seem like the spacing for the flip chip was to narrow on my frame so I would have needed to file of the edges of the flip chip in order for it to fit in, the holes currently doesn't line up properly.
As stated in the previous messages the front bolt of the rear shock that comes with the frame is extremely low quality, the head of my bolt broke of while I was just setting the sag. Routing of the cables went quite easily using the cheap routing kit from AliExpress. It can probably go easier if you remove the rear triangle, I kept it on while routing the cables so that was the hardest corner to make.
I did receive everything that was indicated by Airwolf. Seatpost clamp is very large as other members have stated, I will be replacing this in the future, stock in south africa is just very scarce, would most like need to import it as well.
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So did you swap out all the shock bolts? Custom job or got specialized ones? Is the linkage/hardware etc 1 to 1 with a real stumpjumper
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For the shock absorber, I ordered the original bolts and flip chip ( https://webshop.bestbike.de/us/specialized-sub-my19-sj-levo-fsr-j1-rear-shock-har.html ). The top bolt had to be shortened by 2-3mm, the flip-chip did not fit. The Chinese top bolt is bad in that it is for a large key, because of this it is not strong at the base of the cap, breaks off when screwed.
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For the shock absorber, I ordered the original bolts and flip chip ( https://webshop.bestbike.de/us/specialized-sub-my19-sj-levo-fsr-j1-rear-shock-har.html ). The top bolt had to be shortened by 2-3mm, the flip-chip did not fit. The Chinese top bolt is bad in that it is for a large key, because of this it is not strong at the base of the cap, breaks off when screwed.
Chinese top bolt is not bad - is wrong type! They have champfer 90 degree, but frame for bolt with champfer at 120 degree (such as in rear axle link)! 90 degree bolt cannot fix shock strong - need to replace by original bolt or custom 120 degree bolt.
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I didn't look so closely ...
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So I took mine out for the second ride, and the Main pivot bolts came completely lose, upon further inspection the threading on the bolts that is suppose to catch is completely gone. Can any recommend where I can buy new bolts? As I cannot use the Specialized kit as I need right thread for the main pivot bolt and the Specialized kit comes with left thread.
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So I took mine out for the second ride, and the Main pivot bolts came completely lose, upon further inspection the threading on the bolts that is suppose to catch is completely gone. Can any recommend where I can buy new bolts? As I cannot use the Specialized kit as I need right thread for the main pivot bolt and the Specialized kit comes with left thread.
1) You can use a latheman neighbor to make all new bolts.
2) You can buy original kit and use a latheman neighbor to make only right main pivot bolt.
3) ...more expensive methods...
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1) You can use a latheman neighbor to make all new bolts.
2) You can buy original kit and use a latheman neighbor to make only right main pivot bolt.
3) ...more expensive methods...
Thank you very much for those drawings of the Main pivot bolt, I will try and get a hold of someone with a lathe that can cut me the bolt. I will be purchasing the full kit to replace the other bolts as well.
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Thank you very much for those drawings of the Main pivot bolt, I will try and get a hold of someone with a lathe that can cut me the bolt. I will be purchasing the full kit to replace the other bolts as well.
If so, then firstly buy full kit, then search someone with lathe and take him bolt with left thread, request such but right tread. Then you can use rubber seal from original bolt!
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If so, then firstly buy full kit, then search someone with lathe and take him bolt with left thread, request such but right tread. Then you can use rubber seal from original bolt!
Thank you, for the advice, I like the frame the should really just improve the bolt quality they use. I even sent this thread to Airwolf to see if they will get representation on the thread but it seems they are not interested in solving the problems that is experienced.
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Just leaving this here for future buyers... So I have been in communication with Airwolf regarding the poor Quality of their bolts that they use. They wanted to get out of sending me new bolts since they see it as Consumables, and the warranty only covers the frame, even though I only received the Frame in November and the bolts are already worn out. So in my opinion they will use anything to try and get out of warranty claim. I love the Stumpjumper frame itself but I do think you will need to think twice before ordering from Airwolf. Perhaps another manufacturer that has better service would be a better option, else I would recommend going for another frame as I doubt if anything should go wrong with this frame that you will get assistance from Airwolf. I needed to threaten them with registering the transaction as fraudulent with my credit card company due to the frame being unusable without the bolts. They have agreed to send new bolts now, for me it was about the principle of the matter of supply poor quality bolts, I will be opting for the Specialized bolts kit and letting something machine the other bolt for me that needs Right hand thread as well.
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Airwolf does not make frames, but orders from the factory. The bolts he can send will be just as bad. Good bolts can only be made by yourself, they must be longer.
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After reading here about soft bolts ... I went through the threads in the frame with a tap and cut out tight bolts under the resulting thread ...
All bolts make for 6mm key. Bolts in Front triangle without trough hole. Make a space for install some rubber seal. Main tread M12x1mm.
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After reading here about soft bolts ... I went through the threads in the frame with a tap and cut out tight bolts under the resulting thread ...
hi! do you can share the bolt size specs? thanks
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So, I've had the had the Stumpies clone for a good few months and generally love it. Had some issue with bolts as above but only that the front bolt for the damper didn't screw in fully and as told to 7se some force by AWST... Bolt broken and I bought a new suitable bolt.
However, i have ruined the paint on the frame through stupidity and transport so want to repaint. Was thinking tradiotnal Stumpie silk matt anthracite with red, but any other suggestions? I don't want a "bright" frame so main colour should be black/grey... Looking for inspiration....
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So, I've had the had the Stumpies clone for a good few months and generally love it. Had some issue with bolts as above but only that the front bolt for the damper didn't screw in fully and as told to 7se some force by AWST... Bolt broken and I bought a new suitable bolt.
However, i have ruined the paint on the frame through stupidity and transport so want to repaint. Was thinking tradiotnal Stumpie silk matt anthracite with red, but any other suggestions? I don't want a "bright" frame so main colour should be black/grey... Looking for inspiration....
What did you use for rear shock bushings?
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What did you use for rear shock bushings?
For RS shock absorbers, you can use bushings 21.8mm*6 (pos A on pic) and 15.0mm*8 (pos B on pic)
for example - https://www.bike-discount.de/en/rockshox-bushing-set-8mm-metric/imperial
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Thanks for the reply, but too late haha the bike is already built. For the front of the shock I used FOX Mounting Hardware - 9 Piece, AL, 6mm x 20.83/0.820 and for the rear I used the flip hip as mentioned I think on page two of this thread. Anyway, I did the specialized bearings as well. 210x55 fox shock.
(http://)
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How you solve quest with hole in front triangle where cross brake and rear derailear tube? What fitting needed?
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How you solve quest with hole in front triangle where cross brake and rear derailear tube? What fitting needed?
My solution :)
A piece of protective film, and soundproof tubes (they fit into the rear triangle very tightly, so they are inserted there for a short length).
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Good. Ride on bad roads as train by rails. My height 185cm. In picture used oneUp v2 180mm dropper. But for me 210mm size also compatible.
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This is "XC" mod. Fork xf mcqueen 140mm. Rear sag 15%. Front sag 25%. In sence i feel that 90% antisquat clearly. Very funny mod. If you whant - may use this frame as agressive XC.
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I didn't look so closely ...
Original 6mm bolt make from steel or titanium or aluminum?
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Original 6mm bolt make from steel or titanium or aluminum?
Steel (he is magnetized)
"Road mode" =)
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I bought a second wheelset on narrow rims, the weight on them is 12.8kg
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Steel (he is magnetized)
I break 2 pics maid of aluminum. It seemd that i ride about 20km with braked top bolt :) - no problem.
Made new from chromoly steel. 4.5mm aluminom rod can not counterforce all strikes. In later frames specialized go to 8mm aluminum (such as on my old 2012 camber).
Good steel not easy to cut (have a lot of time at manual lathe)? More easy - buy good strength M6x1 bolt length 40mm and make only 5..6mm cone shim...
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I've had the clone for a while now and ultimately felt that the 150mm travel was too much of a good thing...
So after scratching the hell out of it due to my errors during transport I got it repainted and decided to go full "Down Country" on it.
The forks are now 120mm SID Ultimate with a Slack R -1.5°, A SIDeluxe Ultimate damper and the Specialized ST Damper extension to allow for the 190x42.5 damper.
With various other Race Face and SRAM components weight is down to a very reasonable 11kg, running Newmen Carbon rims and 2.3 tyres from Conti.
Head Angle is approx 65.5°, effective seat tube angle I still need to calculate.
Love the handling of the bike and the 120mm front and back is more than enough for my riding.
What do you think? Sacrilege or ???
Cheers
Guy
(https://i.imgur.com/DJ1PnbE.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rxRwPOX.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xuwMtfl.jpg)
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I also think that for everyday use downcountry setup is more fun.
But i simple install volume and travel spacer in 210x55 shock to make XC style curvature.
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Hey all, quick question. Would it be safe to install 2 rivnuts into the top tube to mount a bike lock mount? Wood be same as a water bottle holder.
Cheers
Guy
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I think that no problem with this.
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Not safe. Water bottle mounts have more carbon and are reinforced in the area. Top tube is one of the weaker parts of the frame.
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That's what I was thinking... Plan B then. Mount folding lock on bottle mount and use a rucksack with drinking bladder.
Cheers
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Hello,
I built up this bike back in like February or March. It has been super sweet, but the threaded insert for the bolt on the main pivot bushing pulled out of the frame. I looked at it and I seen that there is now a crack
I reached out to airwolf I will see if they get me a new front triangle.
Thanks
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Be careful with new triangle... check that m6 bolt have 120 degree champfer.
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Quick question-how hard can you ride frame like that?
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In the beginning of the thread someone posted about allstarbicycles.com selling clones.
Anyone know if they are reputable at all? Or another dealer that sells epic evo/stumpy clones perhaps?
Regards
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hi! someone using the frame in hardcore mode? how are going on?
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Hi all,
I wanted to share my story on the Airwolf Stumpjumper clone.
https://airwolfcarbonbike.com/product/yfm018-2022-am-carbon-mtb-frame-29-full-suspension-frames-stumpjumper-boost-148mm-enduro-rear-travel142mm-racing-mountain-bike-frameset/
I ordered my frame back in via Airwolf in May. I ordered the Specialized OEM parts: chainstay guard, shock top bolt, flip chip and the down tube protector.
When receiving the frame The down tube protector was wasted as the holes for mounting is was not drilled and the top bolt needed 4-5 mm removed to fit. Rest fitted in - flip chip needed some brute force to fit (I did not resort to removing material from chip or shock fork).
Second check was to check bearings and bolts. As already elaborated by others the tolerancesn bolts is in the bin. Bearings is fitted on axles with locktite as there is almost 0,2mm play on all bolts. Bearings is just poor quality - all bolts and bearings was binned and OEM bolt and bearing set was bought.
Further more the the seatclamp was replaced with a bolt-type as the one delivered with the frame is crap.
I put two rides on the bike - 1 XC ride and one where the frame was stressed a little - a couple of 1 m step downs at speed and railing some berms at high speeds and 5-6 small jumps 2-3 meters with ok landings.
The result was that after 3,5 hrs of riding the front Cracked. The crack started at the main pivot on the drive side extending 30mm upwards.
I reach out to Airwolf and I was promised a replacement, but I have zero confidence I the frame, so I will probably get rid of it once the replacement part arrive.
Post thoughts: The rear axel, derailleur hanger and headset should also have be replaced as the stuff is junk/ questionable quality.
If you are looking for a Chinese carbon frame I would recommend that you buy a frame from a company with in-house design-capability with actual knowledge about engineering and matrix design. These “look alike” frames is not worth the materials they are made from and will not stand to be used as the original design intended.
If you are looking for a curb-cruiser they will probably be just fine.
I am planning to cut the cracked fron and have a look at how the junker was built.
If you have questions feel free to PM me.
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Where we can see pictures with cracked frames, sad faces and blood?!
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Hi all,
I wanted to share my story on the Airwolf Stumpjumper clone.
https://airwolfcarbonbike.com/product/yfm018-2022-am-carbon-mtb-frame-29-full-suspension-frames-stumpjumper-boost-148mm-enduro-rear-travel142mm-racing-mountain-bike-frameset/
I ordered my frame back in via Airwolf in May. I ordered the Specialized OEM parts: chainstay guard, shock top bolt, flip chip and the down tube protector.
When receiving the frame The down tube protector was wasted as the holes for mounting is was not drilled and the top bolt needed 4-5 mm removed to fit. Rest fitted in - flip chip needed some brute force to fit (I did not resort to removing material from chip or shock fork).
Second check was to check bearings and bolts. As already elaborated by others the tolerancesn bolts is in the bin. Bearings is fitted on axles with locktite as there is almost 0,2mm play on all bolts. Bearings is just poor quality - all bolts and bearings was binned and OEM bolt and bearing set was bought.
Further more the the seatclamp was replaced with a bolt-type as the one delivered with the frame is crap.
I put two rides on the bike - 1 XC ride and one where the frame was stressed a little - a couple of 1 m step downs at speed and railing some berms at high speeds and 5-6 small jumps 2-3 meters with ok landings.
The result was that after 3,5 hrs of riding the front Cracked. The crack started at the main pivot on the drive side extending 30mm upwards.
I reach out to Airwolf and I was promised a replacement, but I have zero confidence I the frame, so I will probably get rid of it once the replacement part arrive.
Post thoughts: The rear axel, derailleur hanger and headset should also have be replaced as the stuff is junk/ questionable quality.
If you are looking for a Chinese carbon frame I would recommend that you buy a frame from a company with in-house design-capability with actual knowledge about engineering and matrix design. These “look alike” frames is not worth the materials they are made from and will not stand to be used as the original design intended.
If you are looking for a curb-cruiser they will probably be just fine.
I am planning to cut the cracked fron and have a look at how the junker was built.
If you have questions feel free to PM me.
Send it to Hambini in the UK. He'll give it a good look over and an honest opinion everyone can see if he posts it to youtube.
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Send it to Hambini in the UK. He'll give it a good look over and an honest opinion everyone can see if he posts it to youtube.
I have had a german colleague of mine look at it and his conclusion was the same as mine - too low density of fibers in the pivot area and fiber orientation random/ incorrect when looking at the load.
A quick fix for these frames could be to put a solid axle across the two x two pivot points i the front triangle, but that would probably just result in a different area failing.
If your are looking to use the bike as a curb cruiser it is quite safe, but if you ride xc a little on the hard side, the frame will bulge. In short get the real deal and steer clear of the copies