Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame

[Drarak]

When you tighten the headset, does the steering feel perfectly smooth? On mine, without the spacers, I could feel some friction, because the headset cover was rubbing slightly against the top of the frame, and no matter how much I tightened the top cap, there would still be a small amount of play in the steering.

When I tighten the headset, it doesn't rub with the frame. There's actually a few millimeters between the headset and the frame. I've had that issue you mentioned with my previous Velobuild and I fixed with the same type of thin spacers.

The problem now seems like no matter how much I tighten the headset, there's some play in the steering when braking. And if I keep tightning it up, the compression plug slips up.

So I guess that's not a common occurrence for this bike? hm, I'll keep investigating what could be the issue.

[stmbike]

Interesting.. I feel a little bit of play in the steering.. but is very small, so I dont care about it.
Someone has asked to Chris?

[renrew]

how should you solve the problem if you don't add any pictures .. i built two frames there were no problems. You have to trick a little

[patliean1]

Interesting.. I feel a little bit of play in the steering.. but is very small, so I dont care about it.
Someone has asked to Chris?

I also have a little bit of play in my steerer too. Don't really care too much about, as long as there isn't potential for long term damage correct?

[J-S-Q]

When I tighten the headset, it doesn't rub with the frame. There's actually a few millimeters between the headset and the frame. I've had that issue you mentioned with my previous Velobuild and I fixed with the same type of thin spacers.

The problem now seems like no matter how much I tighten the headset, there's some play in the steering when braking. And if I keep tightning it up, the compression plug slips up.

So I guess that's not a common occurrence for this bike? hm, I'll keep investigating what could be the issue.

Perhaps you could try a different/longer compression plug, which might have less chance of slipping? Maybe this one:
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/deda-elementi-expander-bung/rp-prod171842?utm_source=customer-emails&utm_medium=stock-email&utm_campaign=backinstock

Or have you tried using carbon past where the handle bars clamp to the steerer tube to give some extra grip?

Another thought: Have you tried using some sort of retaining compound on the headset bearings in case they are moving within the frame?

Might be worth trying something like in this video:

[Drarak]

Perhaps you could try a different/longer compression plug, which might have less chance of slipping? Maybe this one:
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/deda-elementi-expander-bung/rp-prod171842?utm_source=customer-emails&utm_medium=stock-email&utm_campaign=backinstock

Or have you tried using carbon past where the handle bars clamp to the steerer tube to give some extra grip?

Another thought: Have you tried using some sort of retaining compound on the headset bearings in case they are moving within the frame?

Might be worth trying something like in this video:

Thanks man, that's exactly what I did.

So, for anyone having issues like me. A longer compression plug solved the issue for me.

I used this: PRO Headset expansion nut for carbon steerer tubes, 50mm, 1 1/8 inch

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NJYGTQS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The compression plug sits a bit lower than a standard ones, so it doesn't provide as much support for the top stem bolt clamping the steerer tube, but shouldn't be too much of an issue.

It's still not as stable as my other Velobuild (R-177), but it's much better now.

[Drarak]

This is beast assembled

Very happy with the results. This is my second time building a fully integrated bike, and this time the process went a lot smoother. Totally worth over exposed cables. It looks stunning.

Happy biking everyone. May your builds finish without issues!

[J-S-Q]

This is beast assembled

Very happy with the results. This is my second time building a fully integrated bike, and this time the process went a lot smoother. Totally worth over exposed cables. It looks stunning.

Happy biking everyone. May your builds finish without issues!

Beautiful. Nice decal by your seat post! 

I'm nearing the completion of my 099 build and wondering if you might share your thoughts on my derailleur cable question in this thread:
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3545.0.html

[cramy]

discussed with chris yesterday for the frame size as I am 185, he is recommending size 56, for the bar he gave me the choice between 2 of them

http://www.velobuild.com/products/2021-new-carbon-handlebar-with-separate-stem
http://www.velobuild.com/products/carbon-fiber-road-bike-integrated-handlebar-with-spacers-for-hidden-cables-routing

[Zoc]

I ride the HB010, thinking about switching to the HB011 as i don't like the curved form,
i also read that the HB011 should be a little bit stiffer

i love the clean look of both that's why i wouldn't go for the seperate stem

[cramy]

i read couples of post before that the HB011 is discontinued.

[NovellaNovelli]

Interesting.. I feel a little bit of play in the steering.. but is very small, so I dont care about it.
Someone has asked to Chris?

Mine had quite a bit of play in the steerer.

The issue was that the headset topcap was fouling on the headtube and not actually compressing the ring on the bearing - so the steerer was essentially loose against the top bearing. Managed to fix this with a few microshims between the topcap and the compression ring (though I needed to cut out a slot to let the integrated cabling through) and hasn't been an issue since.

I think somebody had a similar issue and describes the same fix in earlier pages so i wouldn't be surprised if this was a pretty common issue.

[OlieSimpson]

Has anyone replaced the stock headset bearings with some 'premium' bearings, such as NTN, NSK, SKF, Enduro etc.? Or can you advise how your stock bearings are holding up?

I'm about to begin building my bike up and am debating swapping the bearings out in the hope that more premium bearings would last longer as I don't want the hassle of having to re-do all of the cable routing due to the stock headset bearings wearing out.

The problem is, I can't find any from a named manufacturer online in the size I need (P16 52x7x45 degrees).

Any advise would be appreciated 

[FHS]

Has anyone replaced the stock headset bearings with some 'premium' bearings, such as NTN, NSK, SKF, Enduro etc.? Or can you advise how your stock bearings are holding up?

I'm about to begin building my bike up and am debating swapping the bearings out in the hope that more premium bearings would last longer as I don't want the hassle of having to re-do all of the cable routing due to the stock headset bearings wearing out.

The problem is, I can't find any from a named manufacturer online in the size I need (P16 52x7x45 degrees).

Any advise would be appreciated 

Honestly, if your bearings are seated and loaded properly, I don't see them wearing out any time soon. They spin, what, 1/4 turn to either side at the most? Unless you're doing 50 miles of slaloms, the only issue I can think of is them getting banged around from being too loose in the cups. If you tighten your headset down too much, you wouldn't be able to turn your bars.

Others might have different advice.

That being said, I don't know how different the 168 is from the 099, but I installed a set of FSA ACR bearings to my TT-X21/VBR-099 and they fit fine. I also anguished over all the standards and measurements but, in the end, went with the FSA set because they told me I could return it if I needed to. Also in the end, all I really needed was a set of microspacers for my stock set.

Good luck!

[dentillozie]

Hi all, just building up my frame and was wondering what the best way would be to fit a DI2 battery in the seattube?
I saw many solutions like wedges or rubbel plug type thingies to even just bubblewrapping the battery and stuffing it in the tube.
Any suggestions?

Thanks!